It's black, plastic, and 21.5mm (yup, 21.5, I checked my calipers on
some 22mm copper). The stopcock uses a 22mm compression nut to connect
to it.

a) What is this pipe?
b) Can I use a freezing kit on it to change the stopcock? (no stopcock
in the street)

After the incomer I've got a immensely wiggly stopcock with integral
drain valve, then a load of 15mm including a meter. The meter itself has
22mm connections with 22-15 reducers each side.

Given I currently get a little over 20lpm (as measured by opening the
kitchen tap, and flushing a toilet to drain off the cold tank), I'm
hoping that replacing with 22mm where possible and a fullbore stopcock
should make it worthwhile installing a heatbank or megaflo.

Ben

Ben Blaukopf wrote:

It's black, plastic, and 21.5mm (yup, 21.5, I checked my calipers on
some 22mm copper). The stopcock uses a 22mm compression nut to connect
to it.

a) What is this pipe?

That's old half-inch polyethylene (known variously as polythene,
alkathene, or LDPE).

http://groups.google.com/group/uk.d-...4ab31044e13950
will turn up a relevant previous thread on the subject.

Someone else can answer your question about using a freezing kit on it...

--
Andy

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Ben Blaukopf wrote:

It's black, plastic, and 21.5mm (yup, 21.5, I checked my calipers on
some 22mm copper). The stopcock uses a 22mm compression nut to connect
to it.

It actually has the same OD as a 3/4" copper pipe* - which is just slightly
less than 22mm. As with genuine 3/4" copper pipe, 22mm compression fittings
can be used with a special olive. You may find that it's a 3/4" compression
fitting - rather than 22mm - if it's several decades old.

* 3/4" is the nominal bore, so the OD is more than this. The plastic pipe
will have a smaller bore than 3/4" copper pipe, because the wall thickness
is greater.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

On Thu, 29 Dec 2005 15:43:00 +0000, Ben Blaukopf
wrote:

It's black, plastic, and 21.5mm (yup, 21.5, I checked my calipers on
some 22mm copper). The stopcock uses a 22mm compression nut to connect
to it.

a) What is this pipe?
b) Can I use a freezing kit on it to change the stopcock? (no stopcock
in the street)

After the incomer I've got a immensely wiggly stopcock with integral
drain valve, then a load of 15mm including a meter. The meter itself has
22mm connections with 22-15 reducers each side.

Given I currently get a little over 20lpm (as measured by opening the
kitchen tap, and flushing a toilet to drain off the cold tank), I'm
hoping that replacing with 22mm where possible and a fullbore stopcock
should make it worthwhile installing a heatbank or megaflo.

Ben

I belive you will find the water board can switch it off for you, so
you can change your stop cock. There may be some rules about needing a
shutoff in the street.

As to freezing it, I wouldn't. If the freezing goes wrong, there is
absolutly no back out plan. My experience suggestes that putting a new
fixing on the end of a flowing mains preasure pipe is not possible.

Rick

On Sat, 31 Dec 2005 15:28:19 GMT, Rick wrote:

On Thu, 29 Dec 2005 15:43:00 +0000, Ben Blaukopf
wrote:

It's black, plastic, and 21.5mm (yup, 21.5, I checked my calipers on
some 22mm copper). The stopcock uses a 22mm compression nut to connect
to it.

a) What is this pipe?
b) Can I use a freezing kit on it to change the stopcock? (no stopcock
in the street)

After the incomer I've got a immensely wiggly stopcock with integral
drain valve, then a load of 15mm including a meter. The meter itself has
22mm connections with 22-15 reducers each side.

Given I currently get a little over 20lpm (as measured by opening the
kitchen tap, and flushing a toilet to drain off the cold tank), I'm
hoping that replacing with 22mm where possible and a fullbore stopcock
should make it worthwhile installing a heatbank or megaflo.

Ben

I belive you will find the water board can switch it off for you, so
you can change your stop cock. There may be some rules about needing a
shutoff in the street.

As to freezing it, I wouldn't. If the freezing goes wrong, there is
absolutly no back out plan. My experience suggestes that putting a new
fixing on the end of a flowing mains preasure pipe is not possible.

Rick

You can if it's turned on. Water will flow through the new fitting
making it possible to attach it, then you can turn it off.

Makes a mess of course.


--

..andy

Rick wrote:

I belive you will find the water board can switch it off for you, so
you can change your stop cock. There may be some rules about needing a
shutoff in the street.

Ours (Bristol/Wessex Water) wouldn't. They said that the only way we'd
get our water turned off is if there was a leak and they would then
turn off the whole street. They actually sent a guy out to look in the
street (Victorian terraced) to see what options there were.

I shall be replacing our house stopcock soon and so I am looking at
ways of avoiding the ticking-timebomb of freezing the pipe. My latest
idea is to phone the water board up and telling them there *will* be a
leak at whatever time, coinciding with me cutting the current stopcock
off... ;-)

Mathew

On Sat, 31 Dec 2005 10:36:15 -0800, Mathew Newton wrote:

Rick wrote:

I belive you will find the water board can switch it off for you, so
you can change your stop cock. There may be some rules about needing a
shutoff in the street.

Ours (Bristol/Wessex Water) wouldn't. They said that the only way we'd
get our water turned off is if there was a leak and they would then
turn off the whole street. They actually sent a guy out to look in the
street (Victorian terraced) to see what options there were.

I shall be replacing our house stopcock soon and so I am looking at
ways of avoiding the ticking-timebomb of freezing the pipe. My latest
idea is to phone the water board up and telling them there *will* be a
leak at whatever time, coinciding with me cutting the current stopcock
off... ;-)

The tool to have (I've not got one but I've seen it used once) is like a
pair of black-smiths tongues with rounded faces this can be used crush
lead pipe shut and reopen it after. It will also work on plastic but has
to be held fast for duration.


--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html