On Tue, 27 Dec 2005 10:32:34 GMT, "Dan delaMare-Lyon"
wrote:

"Andy Hall" wrote in message


Take a look at the Keston Boilers site (download the manual for the
Celsius 25). Basically, the air inlet pipe and the flue are both
done in 50mm plastic. Note that you can position the inlet pipe at a
different place to the outlet if you like and can run over long
distances.

I did indeed do that - put my mind at rest and seemed to be a decent bit of
kit.

This was an example. Quite a number of other boilers have this option
now, generally by use of an adaptor which fits onto what is typically
a concentric fitting on the boiler itself. On these, the standard is
a concentric flue (which can also be quite long) or you can fit the
adaptor and split into two 50mm muPVC pipes. Note that this is high
temperature pipe (also available from plumbers merchants). Details in
manuals.

Like the idea that it auto cycles to keep itself fit when it's not in
use!

A lot have this nowadays. Internal frost protection and exercising of
the pump are quite common.

Question that I was left wiht (bearing in mind I already see where the
boiler needs to go - and don't fancy trying to get 50mm pipe up the already
lined flue all the way to the roof from the ground floor) is.....how close
toghether can the air/flue pipes be - and how close to the property are they
allowed to be (as in any opening windows)??

If you download the boiler installation manuals, they almost always
have the design rules. Flue termination siting is pretty much
generic. Keston say that their inlet and outlet terminations must be
at least 200mm apart. There doesn't seem to be a requirement on how
far pipes need to be apart for the run. Note that you do have to
make sure that there is a slope back towards the boiler so that
condensate in the pipe runs back. You don't want it collecting there
or dripping out of the flue terminal.


I can see a ncie route where
bugger all work is required to move the water pipes (in fact they get made
shorter y about 1m) - the gas is already there, and we can lose the
breath/vent pipe on the wall above the new cabinetry so would be uber neat.
Couple of sweeping bends required, but other than that - it looks quite an
easy run and would be at wall cabinet height giving us some useless space
back on the floor for us to put another cabinet load of stuff in....

Exactly. Take a look at compartment ventilation and clearance
requirements for servicing when you are planning. Some boilers now
release so little heat through the case that no compartment
ventilation is needed. However, on those that require it, if you are
mounting in a wall cupboard, you may be able to achieve it by cutting
part of the bottom and the top away.


Another useful kitchen design trick is fly-over shelves. Basically,
these are a shelf at the height of the top of the top cupboards
(perhaps 200-250mm deep) with cornice fitted to the front. Visually,
these connect runs of cupboards together and also provide a place to
run cables and pipes out of sight. In addition, you can fit
downlighters to provide accent lighting against the walls.




I don't think that I would be concerned about loft mounting from the
deterioration point of view - outhouses and garages are places and
these are usually unheated. You do have to make frost provision by
lagging pipes. Most modern boilers have an internal frost protection
to protect themselves.

Yup - didn't think about the garage issue - makes sense actually to put the
damn thing in the loft, lose the tanks, convert to sealed and be done with
it - plus it's the least faffing with cutting holes in walls etc...

You would typically not have the boiler size issue either, and could
either go for a decent size combi or for a system boiler driving a
heatbank. (Christian did this, I believe).





--

..andy