I am up for puuting up a slightly more 'permenet' garden shed to house
gardenequipment than the normal run of the mill flatpack stuff.


I have more or less settled on an uninsutlated timber frame, with lap board
cladding. and a tiled roof.

Its only really to keep the rain off stuff, and prevent rot and rust, so it
will be unheated and unpowered. Its outside buiding regs also I think,
though planning may need to be asked about.

However some design issues are bothering me.

1/. I would like a solid concrete floor to enable me to roll the lawn
tractor in easily...I am worried about that getting wet and damp and
rotting the base of the timber structure...not sure whether to lay it on a
DPM or not...I may even simply lay concrete blocks on a sand/cement bed and
infill the gaps...

2/. Or should I leave it 'below damp', build a brick plinth with DPM and
then put the wood on top of THAT? That feels 'right' to me at the moment.

3/. The roof will be pantiles probably - I have these on a garage as well,
and there there is no sarking or insulation, yet things remain dry...is
there any reason to bother with those?

4./. Again, I am not interested in guttering - more a large overhang to
clear the wood walls and let the water **** down onto the ground...not that
guttering would be a big issue anyway. There is a ditch right by it to
divert water into.If SWMBO didn't demand a water butt..

Fell free to tear the idea to pieces. or comment in any way.

On Sun, 11 Dec 2005 15:58:52 +0000, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

2/. Or should I leave it 'below damp', build a brick plinth with DPM and
then put the wood on top of THAT? That feels 'right' to me at the moment.

I've got a timber stable built just like this, it's fairly standard
for this type of building. If you are concerned about rising damp, you
can treat the floor.

--
Nigel M

In article , says...
snip
4./. Again, I am not interested in guttering - more a large overhang to
clear the wood walls and let the water **** down onto the ground

You'll probably want to lay a bed of gravel where it splashes.

On Sun, 11 Dec 2005 15:58:52 +0000, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:

I am up for puuting up a slightly more 'permenet' garden shed to house
gardenequipment than the normal run of the mill flatpack stuff.


I have more or less settled on an uninsutlated timber frame, with lap board
cladding. and a tiled roof.

Its only really to keep the rain off stuff, and prevent rot and rust, so it
will be unheated and unpowered. Its outside buiding regs also I think,
though planning may need to be asked about.

However some design issues are bothering me.

1/. I would like a solid concrete floor to enable me to roll the lawn
tractor in easily...I am worried about that getting wet and damp and
rotting the base of the timber structure...not sure whether to lay it on a
DPM or not...I may even simply lay concrete blocks on a sand/cement bed and
infill the gaps...

I had a concrete base laid and then arranged treated wooden bearers
slightly inside from the walls. The bearers sit on DPC strip and the
walls go down to about 20mm above the concrete which is also slightly
in from the walls. I put a strip of gravel is a trench all the way
round. This prevents water from getting onto the concrete from rain
running in from the edges and the only way is soaking upwards - DPC
stops that.



2/. Or should I leave it 'below damp', build a brick plinth with DPM and
then put the wood on top of THAT? That feels 'right' to me at the moment.

You could. Another way would be to put plastic sheet over the entire
base and use two layers of concrete. Then the whole floor will be
dry.



3/. The roof will be pantiles probably - I have these on a garage as well,
and there there is no sarking or insulation, yet things remain dry...is
there any reason to bother with those?

Could water blow in if it rains and blows hard? Do you care if it
does on the odd occasion?




4./. Again, I am not interested in guttering - more a large overhang to
clear the wood walls and let the water **** down onto the ground...not that
guttering would be a big issue anyway. There is a ditch right by it to
divert water into.If SWMBO didn't demand a water butt..

Does seem a shame to waste it


Fell free to tear the idea to pieces. or comment in any way.

--

..andy

On Sun, 11 Dec 2005 20:51:54 +0000, Andy Hall wrote:

On Sun, 11 Dec 2005 15:58:52 +0000, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:

I am up for puuting up a slightly more 'permenet' garden shed to house
gardenequipment than the normal run of the mill flatpack stuff.


I have more or less settled on an uninsutlated timber frame, with lap board
cladding. and a tiled roof.

Its only really to keep the rain off stuff, and prevent rot and rust, so it
will be unheated and unpowered. Its outside buiding regs also I think,
though planning may need to be asked about.

However some design issues are bothering me.

1/. I would like a solid concrete floor to enable me to roll the lawn
tractor in easily...I am worried about that getting wet and damp and
rotting the base of the timber structure...not sure whether to lay it on a
DPM or not...I may even simply lay concrete blocks on a sand/cement bed and
infill the gaps...

I had a concrete base laid and then arranged treated wooden bearers
slightly inside from the walls. The bearers sit on DPC strip and the
walls go down to about 20mm above the concrete which is also slightly
in from the walls. I put a strip of gravel is a trench all the way
round. This prevents water from getting onto the concrete from rain
running in from the edges and the only way is soaking upwards - DPC
stops that.


2/. Or should I leave it 'below damp', build a brick plinth with DPM and
then put the wood on top of THAT? That feels 'right' to me at the moment.

You could. Another way would be to put plastic sheet over the entire
base and use two layers of concrete. Then the whole floor will be
dry.


3/. The roof will be pantiles probably - I have these on a garage as well,
and there there is no sarking or insulation, yet things remain dry...is
there any reason to bother with those?

Could water blow in if it rains and blows hard? Do you care if it
does on the odd occasion?


4./. Again, I am not interested in guttering - more a large overhang to
clear the wood walls and let the water **** down onto the ground...not that
guttering would be a big issue anyway. There is a ditch right by it to
divert water into.If SWMBO didn't demand a water butt..

Does seem a shame to waste it


Fell free to tear the idea to pieces. or comment in any way.

Thanks guys. Seems its all very much 'standard'

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On Sun, 11 Dec 2005 20:51:54 +0000, Andy Hall wrote:


On Sun, 11 Dec 2005 15:58:52 +0000, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:


I am up for puuting up a slightly more 'permenet' garden shed to house
gardenequipment than the normal run of the mill flatpack stuff.


I have more or less settled on an uninsutlated timber frame, with lap board
cladding. and a tiled roof.

Its only really to keep the rain off stuff, and prevent rot and rust, so it
will be unheated and unpowered. Its outside buiding regs also I think,
though planning may need to be asked about.

However some design issues are bothering me.

1/. I would like a solid concrete floor to enable me to roll the lawn
tractor in easily...I am worried about that getting wet and damp and
rotting the base of the timber structure...not sure whether to lay it on a
DPM or not...I may even simply lay concrete blocks on a sand/cement bed and
infill the gaps...

I had a concrete base laid and then arranged treated wooden bearers
slightly inside from the walls. The bearers sit on DPC strip and the
walls go down to about 20mm above the concrete which is also slightly
in from the walls. I put a strip of gravel is a trench all the way
round. This prevents water from getting onto the concrete from rain
running in from the edges and the only way is soaking upwards - DPC
stops that.


2/. Or should I leave it 'below damp', build a brick plinth with DPM and
then put the wood on top of THAT? That feels 'right' to me at the moment.

You could. Another way would be to put plastic sheet over the entire
base and use two layers of concrete. Then the whole floor will be
dry.


3/. The roof will be pantiles probably - I have these on a garage as well,
and there there is no sarking or insulation, yet things remain dry...is
there any reason to bother with those?

Could water blow in if it rains and blows hard? Do you care if it
does on the odd occasion?


4./. Again, I am not interested in guttering - more a large overhang to
clear the wood walls and let the water **** down onto the ground...not that
guttering would be a big issue anyway. There is a ditch right by it to
divert water into.If SWMBO didn't demand a water butt..

Does seem a shame to waste it


Fell free to tear the idea to pieces. or comment in any way.


Thanks guys. Seems its all very much 'standard'

I put the slab for my 5x2.5m garage on DPM sheet , then built a course
of blockwork off the slab. The studding was then placed on DPM tape on
the blockwork. The outside of the studframes are flush with the
blockwork which allows the Shiplap to go all the way to the floor with a
DPM sheet "skirt" behind (alhough the last two course need to be plugged
not nailed). I missed a trick and did not fold the skirt up from the
slab DPM, so the skirt is not continuous with the slab DPM sheet.

Its dry except for the doors which get a little water blown in etc (no
biggy). Get some prob's with condensation in cold weather.

See dodgy ascii section below.

SFF
SFF
SFF
SFF
S+--
S|BB
S|BB
+--+BB
|CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC//
|CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC//
+-----------------//

+-| = DPM
S = Shiplap
F = Stud frame
C = Concrete slab

On Mon, 12 Dec 2005 09:09:43 +0000, AlexW wrote:

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On Sun, 11 Dec 2005 20:51:54 +0000, Andy Hall wrote:

On Sun, 11 Dec 2005 15:58:52 +0000, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:


I am up for puuting up a slightly more 'permenet' garden shed to house
gardenequipment than the normal run of the mill flatpack stuff.


I have more or less settled on an uninsutlated timber frame, with lap board
cladding. and a tiled roof.

Its only really to keep the rain off stuff, and prevent rot and rust, so it
will be unheated and unpowered. Its outside buiding regs also I think,
though planning may need to be asked about.

However some design issues are bothering me.

1/. I would like a solid concrete floor to enable me to roll the lawn
tractor in easily...I am worried about that getting wet and damp and
rotting the base of the timber structure...not sure whether to lay it on a
DPM or not...I may even simply lay concrete blocks on a sand/cement bed and
infill the gaps...

I had a concrete base laid and then arranged treated wooden bearers
slightly inside from the walls. The bearers sit on DPC strip and the
walls go down to about 20mm above the concrete which is also slightly
in from the walls. I put a strip of gravel is a trench all the way
round. This prevents water from getting onto the concrete from rain
running in from the edges and the only way is soaking upwards - DPC
stops that.


2/. Or should I leave it 'below damp', build a brick plinth with DPM and
then put the wood on top of THAT? That feels 'right' to me at the moment.

You could. Another way would be to put plastic sheet over the entire
base and use two layers of concrete. Then the whole floor will be
dry.


3/. The roof will be pantiles probably - I have these on a garage as well,
and there there is no sarking or insulation, yet things remain dry...is
there any reason to bother with those?

Could water blow in if it rains and blows hard? Do you care if it
does on the odd occasion?


4./. Again, I am not interested in guttering - more a large overhang to
clear the wood walls and let the water **** down onto the ground...not that
guttering would be a big issue anyway. There is a ditch right by it to
divert water into.If SWMBO didn't demand a water butt..

Does seem a shame to waste it


Fell free to tear the idea to pieces. or comment in any way.

Thanks guys. Seems its all very much 'standard'

I put the slab for my 5x2.5m garage on DPM sheet , then built a course
of blockwork off the slab. The studding was then placed on DPM tape on
the blockwork. The outside of the studframes are flush with the
blockwork which allows the Shiplap to go all the way to the floor with a
DPM sheet "skirt" behind (alhough the last two course need to be plugged
not nailed). I missed a trick and did not fold the skirt up from the
slab DPM, so the skirt is not continuous with the slab DPM sheet.

Its dry except for the doors which get a little water blown in etc (no
biggy). Get some prob's with condensation in cold weather.

See dodgy ascii section below.

SFF
SFF
SFF
SFF
S+--
S|BB
S|BB
+--+BB
|CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC//
|CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC//
+-----------------//

+-| = DPM
S = Shiplap
F = Stud frame
C = Concrete slab

No need for ascii art. I understood it perfectly.

I might want to have a rather higher plinth tho. SWMBO will instantly
regared a blank wooden wall as a horticultural challenge, and the thing
will be covered in carbon negative greenery probably before its finished.

I am concerned that that will bridge a low level DPM...inability to mow
near...collection of dead leaves and so on over the years=rising ground
level etc etc.

In article , says...
snip
I might want to have a rather higher plinth tho. SWMBO will instantly
regared a blank wooden wall as a horticultural challenge, and the thing
will be covered in carbon negative greenery probably before its finished.

I am concerned that that will bridge a low level DPM...inability to mow
near...collection of dead leaves and so on over the years=rising ground
level etc etc.

Treat it with nasty chemicals and anything that touches it will die :-)

http://www.hf30.com/

On Mon, 12 Dec 2005 14:16:51 -0000, Rob Morley wrote:

In article , says...
snip
I might want to have a rather higher plinth tho. SWMBO will instantly
regared a blank wooden wall as a horticultural challenge, and the thing
will be covered in carbon negative greenery probably before its finished.

I am concerned that that will bridge a low level DPM...inability to mow
near...collection of dead leaves and so on over the years=rising ground
level etc etc.

Treat it with nasty chemicals and anything that touches it will die :-)

Deleterious to the marriage old boy.

I am quite happy to see it carwling with russiian vine or what have you,
provided it doesn't rot in ten years dong it.