One of my engineers has been installing a system in Cirencester. The
property is very thick stone walled and so out came the 1m SDS bit.

When most of the way through, the bit got stuck. The SDS chuck clutch slips
and will not drive the bit in either direction. The engineer tried using
rotostop and twisting with mole grips etc with no success. I thought of some
sort of impact wrench with a conventional drill type chuck to shock it
loose. Local hire shop staff just shrug their shoulders.

Any suggestions?

--
AJL

Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics) wrote:
One of my engineers has been installing a system in Cirencester. The
property is very thick stone walled and so out came the 1m SDS bit.

When most of the way through, the bit got stuck. The SDS chuck clutch
slips and will not drive the bit in either direction. The engineer
tried using rotostop and twisting with mole grips etc with no
success. I thought of some sort of impact wrench with a conventional
drill type chuck to shock it loose. Local hire shop staff just shrug
their shoulders.

Any suggestions?

You need summat with a bit of leverage? mole grips are too small, a decent
size bench vice will free it and hitting the drill bit with an hammer now
and again.
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

On Fri, 2 Dec 2005 14:45:08 +0100, "Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics)"
wrote:

One of my engineers has been installing a system in Cirencester. The
property is very thick stone walled and so out came the 1m SDS bit.

When most of the way through, the bit got stuck. The SDS chuck clutch slips
and will not drive the bit in either direction. The engineer tried using
rotostop and twisting with mole grips etc with no success. I thought of some
sort of impact wrench with a conventional drill type chuck to shock it
loose. Local hire shop staff just shrug their shoulders.

Any suggestions?

Perhaps mole grips with a long tube on the handle to give leverage,
turning against the direction of the bit?

Failing that, angle grind the bit off just below the surcafe of the
wall. Fill the hole with plaster and drill the hole somewhere else!

sponix

Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics) wrote:
One of my engineers has been installing a system in Cirencester. The
property is very thick stone walled and so out came the 1m SDS bit.

When most of the way through, the bit got stuck. The SDS chuck clutch slips
and will not drive the bit in either direction. The engineer tried using
rotostop and twisting with mole grips etc with no success. I thought of some
sort of impact wrench with a conventional drill type chuck to shock it
loose. Local hire shop staff just shrug their shoulders.

Any suggestions?

BTDTGTTS

Slide hammer, like you use on a car.

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=101771&ts=36034&id=15920


--
Grunff

Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics) wrote:
One of my engineers has been installing a system in Cirencester. The
property is very thick stone walled and so out came the 1m SDS bit.

Send him on a course on how walls are constructed. Why's he bashing
a hole through there?


When most of the way through, the bit got stuck. The SDS chuck clutch slips
and will not drive the bit in either direction. The engineer tried using
rotostop and twisting with mole grips etc with no success. I thought of some
sort of impact wrench with a conventional drill type chuck to shock it
loose. Local hire shop staff just shrug their shoulders.

Stillsons, although it might shear off. How much is protuding
from the hole?

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics) wrote:

One of my engineers has been installing a system in Cirencester. The
property is very thick stone walled and so out came the 1m SDS bit.

When most of the way through, the bit got stuck. The SDS chuck clutch
slips and will not drive the bit in either direction. The engineer
tried using rotostop and twisting with mole grips etc with no
success. I thought of some sort of impact wrench with a conventional
drill type chuck to shock it loose. Local hire shop staff just shrug
their shoulders.

Any suggestions?

How about gripping the shank close to the wall with a Mole wrench, and then
using a small gemmy between the jaws of the Mole and the wall to prise the
bit out? That way, you may manage to pull it back from whatever it is caught
on without actually needing to rotate it.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

In article ,
Chris Bacon writes:
Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics) wrote:
One of my engineers has been installing a system in Cirencester. The
property is very thick stone walled and so out came the 1m SDS bit.

Send him on a course on how walls are constructed. Why's he bashing
a hole through there?

My house is built that way---two-and-a-bit feet of sandstone at ground level.
I've not had anyone try to drill a hole on the ground floor, and it's clear
that the reason the phone cable comes in above second-floor level into the
roof space is because that's where the drill-bit would go all the way through.

But if it's where the hole has to be...
--
SAm.

In article , me8
@privacy.net says...
One of my engineers has been installing a system in Cirencester. The
property is very thick stone walled and so out came the 1m SDS bit.

When most of the way through, the bit got stuck. The SDS chuck clutch slips
and will not drive the bit in either direction. The engineer tried using
rotostop and twisting with mole grips etc with no success. I thought of some
sort of impact wrench with a conventional drill type chuck to shock it
loose. Local hire shop staff just shrug their shoulders.

Any suggestions?


Big Stilsons?

Hit it hard with a 14lb hammer - should free the impacted end bit.

The message
from "Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics)" contains these words:

One of my engineers has been installing a system in Cirencester. The
property is very thick stone walled and so out came the 1m SDS bit.

When most of the way through, the bit got stuck. The SDS chuck clutch slips
and will not drive the bit in either direction. The engineer tried using
rotostop and twisting with mole grips etc with no success. I thought of some
sort of impact wrench with a conventional drill type chuck to shock it
loose. Local hire shop staff just shrug their shoulders.

Any suggestions?

Shift the drill to rotation stop and see if using it as a chisel will
get it out.

It's never happened to me (yet) but I have come close a time or 2 by
failing to clear the dust from a hole often enough.

--
Roger Chapman so far this year 62 summits
New - 28 (Marilyns 14, Nuttalls 5, Outlying Fells 10)
Repeats - 34 (Marilyns 16, Nuttalls 24, Wainwrights 12, Outlying Fells 0)

Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics) typed:

One of my engineers has been installing a system in Cirencester. The
property is very thick stone walled and so out came the 1m SDS bit.

When most of the way through, the bit got stuck. The SDS chuck clutch
slips and will not drive the bit in either direction. The engineer
tried using rotostop and twisting with mole grips etc with no
success. I thought of some sort of impact wrench with a conventional
drill type chuck to shock it loose. Local hire shop staff just shrug
their shoulders.

Any suggestions?

My guess FWIW is that he has bent the drill bit.
In which case you/he/drill are Fcuked.
cut it off ?



-

The message
from (Sam Nelson) contains these words:

One of my engineers has been installing a system in Cirencester. The
property is very thick stone walled and so out came the 1m SDS bit.

Send him on a course on how walls are constructed. Why's he bashing
a hole through there?

My house is built that way---two-and-a-bit feet of sandstone at ground
level.
I've not had anyone try to drill a hole on the ground floor, and it's clear
that the reason the phone cable comes in above second-floor level into the
roof space is because that's where the drill-bit would go all the way
through.

It did cross my mind after I posted my previous response that if the
walls are rubble filled (as mine are) the jam might have been caused by
shifting rubble rather than by dust in the hole as I had originally
assumed.

--
Roger Chapman

On Fri, 2 Dec 2005 14:45:08 +0100, "Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics)"
wrote:

One of my engineers has been installing a system in Cirencester. The
property is very thick stone walled and so out came the 1m SDS bit.

When most of the way through, the bit got stuck. The SDS chuck clutch slips
and will not drive the bit in either direction. The engineer tried using
rotostop and twisting with mole grips etc with no success. I thought of some
sort of impact wrench with a conventional drill type chuck to shock it
loose. Local hire shop staff just shrug their shoulders.

Any suggestions?


Drill another blind hole adjacent to the stuck bit with a core drill
halfway through the wall, stuff in a wild rat purloined from the
nearest hovel (there will be plenty around, look for the nearest Sky
dish to guide you), brick up the escape route with engineering bricks
and quick setting epoxy mortar and then hope the cute furry thing that
baby jesus loves eats its way through to the stuck drill and it will
simply pull out.

Next week ask how to get the rat out of the wall.

HTH :-)


--

Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics) wrote:
Any suggestions?

Mole grips on shank about 2" from wall. Two tapered wooden wedges + large
hammer.

Dave

On Fri, 2 Dec 2005, Chris Bacon wrote:

One of my engineers has been installing a system in Cirencester. The
property is very thick stone walled and so out came the 1m SDS bit.

Send him on a course on how walls are constructed. Why's he bashing
a hole through there?

Plenty reasons why it might be necessary to drill a hole that long.

Some of the walls in my PoW are more than 5 feet thick - took a man with a
corecutter about a day and a half to get through last time we needed a
hole made.

--
Alistair Riddell - BOFH
Microsoft - because god hates us

"david lang" wrote in message
...
Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics) wrote:
Any suggestions?

Mole grips on shank about 2" from wall. Two tapered wooden wedges + large
hammer.

Dave


Same thing happened to me when i worked for Scottish Power, but it was
concrete wall that i was going through and drill got stuck on a bit of
rebar. Couldn't get the damn thing out so left it in place, to my knwledge
the drill is still sticking out of that wall to this day, 5 years after it
was done.

Cut it off and re-drill hole elsewhere.

-=Scozia=-

"david lang" wrote in message
...
Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics) wrote:
Any suggestions?

Mole grips on shank about 2" from wall. Two tapered wooden wedges + large
hammer.

Dave


Same thing happened to me when i worked for Scottish Power, but it was
concrete wall that i was going through and drill got stuck on a bit of
rebar. Couldn't get the damn thing out so left it in place, to my knwledge
the drill is still sticking out of that wall to this day, 5 years after it
was done.

Cut it off and re-drill hole elsewhere.

-=Scozia=-

Roger wrote:

The message
from "Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics)" contains these
words:

One of my engineers has been installing a system in Cirencester. The
property is very thick stone walled and so out came the 1m SDS bit.

When most of the way through, the bit got stuck. The SDS chuck clutch
slips and will not drive the bit in either direction. The engineer tried
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
using rotostop and twisting with mole grips etc with no success.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Shift the drill to rotation stop and see if using it as a chisel will
get it out.

Cut off bit with an angle grinder, use grinder to countersink it into the
wall ... make good and then drill a new hole.

"Matt" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 2 Dec 2005 14:45:08 +0100, "Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics)"
wrote:

One of my engineers has been installing a system in Cirencester. The
property is very thick stone walled and so out came the 1m SDS bit.

When most of the way through, the bit got stuck. The SDS chuck clutch
slips
and will not drive the bit in either direction. The engineer tried using
rotostop and twisting with mole grips etc with no success. I thought of
some
sort of impact wrench with a conventional drill type chuck to shock it
loose. Local hire shop staff just shrug their shoulders.

Any suggestions?


Drill another blind hole adjacent to the stuck bit with a core drill
halfway through the wall, stuff in a wild rat purloined from the
nearest hovel (there will be plenty around, look for the nearest Sky
dish to guide you), brick up the escape route with engineering bricks
and quick setting epoxy mortar and then hope the cute furry thing that
baby jesus loves eats its way through to the stuck drill and it will
simply pull out.

Next week ask how to get the rat out of the wall.

HTH :-)


--

on 02/12/2005, Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics) supposed :
When most of the way through, the bit got stuck. The SDS chuck clutch slips
and will not drive the bit in either direction. The engineer tried using
rotostop and twisting with mole grips etc with no success. I thought of some
sort of impact wrench with a conventional drill type chuck to shock it
loose. Local hire shop staff just shrug their shoulders.

Any suggestions?

Mole grip just behind the shank with a pair of car scissor jacks to
pull on the grips. Failing that... Angle grinder to cut it off below
the surface, then fill and start again (more carefully).

--

Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
...
Failing that... Angle grinder to cut it off below the surface, then fill
and start again (more carefully).

These suggestions to cut the drill and leave it in the wall are ridiculous.
Why should the client have to put up with the remains of an SDS drill stuck
in his stone wall causing permanent rust staining, let alone having to live
with looking at a lump of filler near the second hole because some bodger
couldn't be arsed to do the job properly the first time. Not to mention
even more damage to the stone that will be caused by trying to cut the drill
off below the surface.

If this was happening to my house I would be insisting the drill bit is
removed. Some form of puller or extractor will be needed if it can't be
freed by hand, and the stone will need protection while it's being used. If
that can't be done then the damaged stone will have to be cut out and
replaced.

Peter

The message
from John Stumbles contains these words:


One of my engineers has been installing a system in Cirencester. The
property is very thick stone walled and so out came the 1m SDS bit.

When most of the way through, the bit got stuck. The SDS chuck clutch
slips and will not drive the bit in either direction. The engineer tried
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
using rotostop and twisting with mole grips etc with no success.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Shift the drill to rotation stop and see if using it as a chisel will
get it out.

Oops. Now how did I manage to miss that?

--
Roger Chapman

Peter Taylor wrote:
"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
...
Failing that... Angle grinder to cut it off below the surface, then
fill and start again (more carefully).

These suggestions to cut the drill and leave it in the wall are
ridiculous. Why should the client have to put up with the remains of
an SDS drill stuck in his stone wall causing permanent rust staining,
let alone having to live with looking at a lump of filler near the
second hole because some bodger couldn't be arsed to do the job
properly the first time. Not to mention even more damage to the
stone that will be caused by trying to cut the drill off below the
surface.

If this was happening to my house I would be insisting the drill bit
is removed. Some form of puller or extractor will be needed if it
can't be freed by hand, and the stone will need protection while it's
being used. If that can't be done then the damaged stone will have
to be cut out and replaced.

Peter

ooh! handbags at dawn. :-)
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics) said the following on 02/12/2005 13:45:
One of my engineers has been installing a system in Cirencester. The
property is very thick stone walled and so out came the 1m SDS bit.

When most of the way through, the bit got stuck. The SDS chuck clutch slips
and will not drive the bit in either direction. The engineer tried using
rotostop and twisting with mole grips etc with no success. I thought of some
sort of impact wrench with a conventional drill type chuck to shock it
loose. Local hire shop staff just shrug their shoulders.

Any suggestions?


Any particular reason why you don't go and hire a bigger Hilti?

In article , Rumble
URL:mailto:.@. wrote:


Any particular reason why you don't go and hire a bigger Hilti?

Been tried. The bit stays put and the user's arm gets broken by the recoil.
:-)

--
AJL

In article ,
The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:

You need summat with a bit of leverage? mole grips are too small, a decent
size bench vice will free it and hitting the drill bit with an hammer now
and again.

Interesting thought. It probably is a matter of getting enough leverage.
After all, the drill has to be harder than the wall.

--
AJL

In article , sPoNiX
wrote:

Failing that, angle grind the bit off just below the surcafe of the
wall. Fill the hole with plaster and drill the hole somewhere else!

Not a good option due to the resulting additional damage to the wall and the
unprofessional appearance of such a job.

--
AJL

In article , Grunff
wrote:


Slide hammer, like you use on a car.

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=101771&ts=36034&id=15920

I have an axle slide hammer and it seems like a good idea. However, I need a
way to securely couple it to the drill shaft.


--
AJL

In article , Chris Bacon
wrote:


Send him on a course on how walls are constructed. Why's he bashing
a hole through there?

Because that's where the hole needs to be!

Stillsons, although it might shear off. How much is protuding
from the hole?

Haven't seen it, but a few inches I would guess.


--
AJL

In article , Set Square
wrote:


How about gripping the shank close to the wall with a Mole wrench, and then
using a small gemmy between the jaws of the Mole and the wall to prise the
bit out? That way, you may manage to pull it back from whatever it is caught
on without actually needing to rotate it.

It's a thought, but the plaster could take a bashing unless the load is well
spread.

--
AJL

In article , Roger
wrote:

Shift the drill to rotation stop and see if using it as a chisel will
get it out.

It was tried on site.


--
AJL

In article , Mark
wrote:

My guess FWIW is that he has bent the drill bit.
In which case you/he/drill are Fcuked.
cut it off ?

Not a way to impress the client!

--
AJL

In article , Roger
wrote:

It did cross my mind after I posted my previous response that if the
walls are rubble filled (as mine are) the jam might have been caused by
shifting rubble rather than by dust in the hole as I had originally
assumed.

I will look into that. I would guess the wall is solid though.

--
AJL

Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics) wrote:

I have an axle slide hammer and it seems like a good idea. However, I need a
way to securely couple it to the drill shaft.


When I did it, I clamped a pair of molegrips on the drill shaft, then
hooked the sliding hammer hook onto the molegrip jaws.


--
Grunff

The message
from "Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics)" contains these words:

It did cross my mind after I posted my previous response that if the
walls are rubble filled (as mine are) the jam might have been caused by
shifting rubble rather than by dust in the hole as I had originally
assumed.

I will look into that. I would guess the wall is solid though.

Having already proved remarkably unobservant perhaps I should keep quiet
on this one but ISTM that trying to twist it out has a high probability
of ultimately sheering it off. Getting a secure hold and pulling it out
is almost guaranteed to pull it out without breaking it. The twofold
problems with that of course are getting the secure hold in the first
place and then applying sufficient force to pull it out. Someone has
already suggested wedges. An alternative could be a metal claw hammer
with the fulcrum very close to a drill or a wrecking bar used in the
same manner. Some protection to the surface could be provided by a solid
pad under the fulcum.

--
Roger Chapman

In article ,
Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics) wrote:

I have an axle slide hammer and it seems like a good idea.
However, I need a way to securely couple it to the drill shaft.

Repetitive taps forwards then backwards is likely to
be the best way to loosen the drill bit.

--
Tony Williams.

"Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics)" wrote in message
. ..
In article , Rumble
URL:mailto:.@. wrote:


Any particular reason why you don't go and hire a bigger Hilti?

Been tried. The bit stays put and the user's arm gets broken by the
recoil.
:-)

What size is the bit ?

Regards jeff

Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics) typed:

In article , Mark
wrote:

My guess FWIW is that he has bent the drill bit.
In which case you/he/drill are Fcuked.
cut it off ?

Not a way to impress the client!

Its unlikely they are feeling terribly impressed so far!
slide hammer has been possibly the best suggestion so far for removing it,
but the potential damage this could do to the wall, plaster and decoration
is also unlikely to impress the clients.
or your insurance. Good luck :-)


-

In article , Tony Williams
wrote:

Repetitive taps forwards then backwards is likely to
be the best way to loosen the drill bit.

Agreed, but how to couple it to the axle mounting plate on my slide hammer
is the new question.

--
AJL

In article , Jeff
wrote:

What size is the bit ?

10mm by 1m SDS


--
AJL