Whats the groups considered thoughts. At the entrance to the house I
have reinstated a door between the foyer and hall to make the house
warmer but have issues.

I have just hung a door and after a few problems with the builder
erected door frame being off vertical, when the door is shut it fits
the hole very nicely with an even 5mm gap across the bottom ready for
the vinyl. However when I open the door it sticks on the floor. After
having a look the floor of screeded concrete which to the eye looks
okay it is infact quite lumpy and has 5 mm hillocks across it.

What is the best way around this. Take another 5mm of the door at the
end away from the hinge so that it clears the floor but has an almighty
gap underneath when the door is closed.

Use some self smoothing concrete to bring the floor level up to the top
of the hillocks and then continue into the hall some way so that there
is not a noticeable ramp.

Do something, possibly obsessive, to make this barrett box have a level
floor ie get rid of the bumps using grinding, sanding or some other
method. My perfectionist side tends to the latter solution but I
realise my family could well have words. Is there a machine/tool that
can be used to effectively plane or sand down concrete that is not too
expensive to hire and would it be a sensible course of action.

Cheers

Neil

In article . com,
says...
Whats the groups considered thoughts. At the entrance to the house I
have reinstated a door between the foyer and hall to make the house
warmer but have issues.

I have just hung a door and after a few problems with the builder
erected door frame being off vertical, when the door is shut it fits
the hole very nicely with an even 5mm gap across the bottom ready for
the vinyl. However when I open the door it sticks on the floor. After
having a look the floor of screeded concrete which to the eye looks
okay it is infact quite lumpy and has 5 mm hillocks across it.

What is the best way around this. Take another 5mm of the door at the
end away from the hinge so that it clears the floor but has an almighty
gap underneath when the door is closed.

Use some self smoothing concrete to bring the floor level up to the top
of the hillocks and then continue into the hall some way so that there
is not a noticeable ramp.

Do something, possibly obsessive, to make this barrett box have a level
floor ie get rid of the bumps using grinding, sanding or some other
method. My perfectionist side tends to the latter solution but I
realise my family could well have words. Is there a machine/tool that
can be used to effectively plane or sand down concrete that is not too
expensive to hire and would it be a sensible course of action.

Can't you get hinges that rise off the floor (if you see what I mean).
I'm sure my dad used some to do this with a similar problem to yours
about 30 years ago.

--
John Kelly

Remove dimspam if replying by mail

Not what I was thinking of but that seems a good idea.

Hi Neil

These might help

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/sea/...=1&cn=1 &cd=1

or if that doesn't work try www.screwfix.com and search for

rising but hinge

You need the right 'flavour' - left or right hand.......

HTH
Adrian
Suffolk UK


On 20 Nov 2005 09:23:18 -0800,
"neil(at)martech-scot(dot)freeserve(dot)co(dot)uk"
wrote:

Not what I was thinking of but that seems a good idea.

======return email munged=================
take out the papers and the trash to reply

In article . com,
says...
Whats the groups considered thoughts. At the entrance to the house I
have reinstated a door between the foyer and hall to make the house
warmer but have issues.

I have just hung a door and after a few problems with the builder
erected door frame being off vertical, when the door is shut it fits
the hole very nicely with an even 5mm gap across the bottom ready for
the vinyl. However when I open the door it sticks on the floor. After
having a look the floor of screeded concrete which to the eye looks
okay it is infact quite lumpy and has 5 mm hillocks across it.

What is the best way around this. Take another 5mm of the door at the
end away from the hinge so that it clears the floor but has an almighty
gap underneath when the door is closed.

If you offset the frame so it slopes out at the top the door will open
uphill and tend to close itself.

Use some self smoothing concrete to bring the floor level up to the top
of the hillocks and then continue into the hall some way so that there
is not a noticeable ramp.

You won't be able to feather mortar in a way that makes the thin edge
stick properly and not crack away in time.

Do something, possibly obsessive, to make this barrett box have a level
floor ie get rid of the bumps using grinding, sanding or some other
method. My perfectionist side tends to the latter solution but I
realise my family could well have words. Is there a machine/tool that
can be used to effectively plane or sand down concrete that is not too
expensive to hire and would it be a sensible course of action.

A scabbler is the tool used to take the surface off concrete. Or you
could try slicing through the bumps a few times in each direction with
an angle grinder then dressing the surface with a hammer and chisel.

"neil(at)martech-scot(dot)freeserve(dot)co(dot)uk"
wrote in message
ups.com...
Whats the groups considered thoughts. At the entrance to the house I
have reinstated a door between the foyer and hall to make the house
warmer but have issues.

I have just hung a door and after a few problems with the builder
erected door frame being off vertical, when the door is shut it fits
the hole very nicely with an even 5mm gap across the bottom ready for
the vinyl. However when I open the door it sticks on the floor. After
having a look the floor of screeded concrete which to the eye looks
okay it is infact quite lumpy and has 5 mm hillocks across it.

What is the best way around this.

Fit rising butt hinges. However, note that you will need to modify the top
of the door to clear the frame as it rises. Along most of the width, it only
needs a slight angle but on the hinge edge corner that leaves the frame last
you will probably need to take quite a bit off to maintain a clearance.

Colin Bignell

neil(at)martech-scot(dot)freeserve(dot)co(dot)uk wrote:
Whats the groups considered thoughts. At the entrance to the house I
have reinstated a door between the foyer and hall to make the house
warmer but have issues.

A foyer?? In a house? WFT's that? Do you mean a porch?


I have just hung a door and after a few problems with the builder
erected door frame being off vertical, when the door is shut it fits
the hole very nicely with an even 5mm gap across the bottom ready for
the vinyl. However when I open the door it sticks on the floor. After
having a look the floor of screeded concrete which to the eye looks
okay it is infact quite lumpy and has 5 mm hillocks across it.

Rising butt hinges or doing things with the hangings will work,
but have the unfortunate effect of making the door almost self-
closing.


What is the best way around this. Take another 5mm of the door at the
end away from the hinge so that it clears the floor but has an almighty
gap underneath when the door is closed.

Use some self smoothing concrete to bring the floor level up to the top
of the hillocks and then continue into the hall some way so that there
is not a noticeable ramp.

If you're putting vinyl down you want a nice clean flat smooth
floor, so lumps need dealing with. You could hack them down with
a scutch chisel & comp (see:

http://www.footprint-tools.co.uk/ret...ckbolsters.htm )

but the idea of applying a (latex) levelling compound over the whole
area you're going to vinyl is probably best. IIWY I'd get someone to
do it, too, it's not easy without practice. See a flooring contractor
for advice.

"Chris Bacon" wrote in message
...
....
Rising butt hinges or doing things with the hangings will work,
but have the unfortunate effect of making the door almost self-
closing....

That is what rising butt hinges were designed to do and what doorstops were
designed to prevent.

Colin Bignell

nightjar nightjar@ wrote:
"Chris Bacon" wrote
Rising butt hinges or doing things with the hangings will work,
but have the unfortunate effect of making the door almost self-
closing....

That is what rising butt hinges were designed to do and what doorstops were
designed to prevent.

What? Explain about "doorstops" if you please.

In article ,
says...
nightjar nightjar@ wrote:
"Chris Bacon" wrote
Rising butt hinges or doing things with the hangings will work,
but have the unfortunate effect of making the door almost self-
closing....

That is what rising butt hinges were designed to do and what doorstops were
designed to prevent.

What? Explain about "doorstops" if you please.

Things you put in front of/under doors, to stop them :-)

"Chris Bacon" wrote in message
...
nightjar nightjar@ wrote:
"Chris Bacon" wrote
Rising butt hinges or doing things with the hangings will work,
but have the unfortunate effect of making the door almost self-
closing....

That is what rising butt hinges were designed to do and what doorstops
were designed to prevent.

What? Explain about "doorstops" if you please.

If you don't want a door on rising butt hinges (or almost any door in a
draught) to close itself, you use a doorstop to stop the door from moving.
Doorstops can be a heavy lump of something or a wedge that you put under the
door. Inverted Sinclair Spectrums made good doorstops.

Colin Bignell

Rob Morley wrote:
chrispbacon says...
nightjar nightjar@ wrote:
"Chris Bacon" wrote
Rising butt hinges or doing things with the hangings will work,
but have the unfortunate effect of making the door almost self-
closing....

That is what rising butt hinges were designed to do and what doorstops were
designed to prevent.

What? Explain about "doorstops" if you please.

Things you put in front of/under doors, to stop them :-)

I wondered whether he meant "doorsteps", couldn't see how this
could be, or "door stop" the timber nailed around to stop the
door swinging through. OK.

nightjar nightjar@ wrote:
"Chris Bacon" wrote...
nightjar nightjar@ wrote:
"Chris Bacon" wrote
Rising butt hinges or doing things with the hangings will work,
but have the unfortunate effect of making the door almost self-
closing....

That is what rising butt hinges were designed to do and what doorstops
were designed to prevent.

What? Explain about "doorstops" if you please.

If you don't want a door on rising butt hinges (or almost any door in a
draught) to close itself, you use a doorstop to stop the door from moving

I see now, must've had a mental slippage. Still, a bit of
a pain to have to use one of these though.

In article , Chris Bacon
wrote:
Rob Morley wrote:
chrispbacon says...
nightjar nightjar@ wrote:
"Chris Bacon" wrote
Rising butt hinges or doing things with the hangings will work, but
have the unfortunate effect of making the door almost self- closing....

That is what rising butt hinges were designed to do and what doorstops
were designed to prevent.

What? Explain about "doorstops" if you please.

Things you put in front of/under doors, to stop them :-)

I wondered whether he meant "doorsteps", couldn't see how this could be, or
"door stop" the timber nailed around to stop the door swinging through. OK.

I assumed that he meant a three-year old Windows PC which seem to be regularly
referred to as door stops... ;-)

--
John Cartmell john@ followed by finnybank.com 0845 006 8822
Qercus magazine FAX +44 (0)8700-519-527 www.finnybank.com
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