Will be starting to fix a 5ft high fence next week and have a few questions
which i hope are not to stupid.The post will be 3*3inch, rails 4*4inch.
Rails will be fixed to the face of the post. Question 1: Do i concrete all
the 6 posts before i nail the rails or nail the rails then concrete.Daft
question 2: As i am right handed do i start from the right to nail the
featheredge to the rails.

Thanks

Dave

In article ,
"Bodge" d.joslinatdsl.pipex.com writes:
Will be starting to fix a 5ft high fence next week and have a few questions
which i hope are not to stupid.The post will be 3*3inch, rails 4*4inch.

3*3inch posts a bit marginal for a 5' fence I would say.
Make sure they aren't spaced too far apart.

Rails will be fixed to the face of the post.

They are usually fixed flush with the face of the post.

Question 1: Do i concrete all
the 6 posts before i nail the rails or nail the rails then concrete.Daft

I don't think it much matters. The rails could help the posts all
stay vertical with fewer extra supports. Personally, I would
use metapost spikes. This will more than double the life of the
posts. I used the hammer in spike type, but you can get ones to
be concreted in instead if you prefer.

question 2: As i am right handed do i start from the right to nail the
featheredge to the rails.

Bare in mind the featheredge is likely to shrink a lot across
the width. I did a featheredge arris rail fence some 20 years
ago, and although I had plenty of overlap, after a year or so,
most of it had gone in shrinkage. Other than that, the fence
is fine, and the only maintenance required was replacing the
one concreted-in post. All the original metaposts are still
fine (actually they were "Fensock", which are much better
quality than today's metaposts, but I haven't seen them around
for a long time now).

Also, you need access to your neighbour's land, as you should
conventionally be putting the featheredge on their side if it's
your fence. Otherwise, you end up giving your neighbour a strip
of your land at least as wide as your fence.

--
Andrew Gabriel

As i am paying for the fence the featheredge will be on my side stuff the
neighbour.
"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
.. .
In article ,
"Bodge" d.joslinatdsl.pipex.com writes:
Will be starting to fix a 5ft high fence next week and have a few
questions
which i hope are not to stupid.The post will be 3*3inch, rails 4*4inch.

3*3inch posts a bit marginal for a 5' fence I would say.
Make sure they aren't spaced too far apart.

Rails will be fixed to the face of the post.

They are usually fixed flush with the face of the post.

Question 1: Do i concrete all
the 6 posts before i nail the rails or nail the rails then concrete.Daft

I don't think it much matters. The rails could help the posts all
stay vertical with fewer extra supports. Personally, I would
use metapost spikes. This will more than double the life of the
posts. I used the hammer in spike type, but you can get ones to
be concreted in instead if you prefer.

question 2: As i am right handed do i start from the right to nail the
featheredge to the rails.

Bare in mind the featheredge is likely to shrink a lot across
the width. I did a featheredge arris rail fence some 20 years
ago, and although I had plenty of overlap, after a year or so,
most of it had gone in shrinkage. Other than that, the fence
is fine, and the only maintenance required was replacing the
one concreted-in post. All the original metaposts are still
fine (actually they were "Fensock", which are much better
quality than today's metaposts, but I haven't seen them around
for a long time now).

Also, you need access to your neighbour's land, as you should
conventionally be putting the featheredge on their side if it's
your fence. Otherwise, you end up giving your neighbour a strip
of your land at least as wide as your fence.

--
Andrew Gabriel

you should use 4 inch posts concreted 18 inches in the ground i personally screw the featheredge boards on with 32 mm drywall screws and overlap the boards 25mm drill pilot holes in the boards 3mm start from right to left cut a piece of wood 25mm thick and mark the edge of board this is your overlap

you should use 4x2 for rails

In article , "Bodge"
d.joslinatdsl.pipex.com says...
Will be starting to fix a 5ft high fence next week and have a few questions
which i hope are not to stupid.The post will be 3*3inch,

That sounds a bit undersized for a 5 foot fence.

rails 4*4inch.

That sounds a bit oversized - arris rail is normally half a 3x3 ripped
diagonally.

Rails will be fixed to the face of the post.

Rails are normally fixed flush with the post.

Question 1: Do i concrete all
the 6 posts before i nail the rails or nail the rails then concrete.

I'd set the posts first, that way you won't move one when you're working
on the next one.

Daft question 2: As i am right handed do i start from the right to
nail the featheredge to the rails.


It's probably easier to work right-to-left if you're right handed,
although it's not hard to work the other way.

"Bodge" d.joslinatdsl.pipex.com wrote in message
...
Will be starting to fix a 5ft high fence next week and have a few
questions
which i hope are not to stupid.The post will be 3*3inch, rails 4*4inch.
Rails will be fixed to the face of the post. Question 1: Do i concrete all
the 6 posts before i nail the rails or nail the rails then concrete.Daft
question 2: As i am right handed do i start from the right to nail the
featheredge to the rails.


having read all the replys the only thing I can add is make yourself a
template :-

_______________
|_______________|
|_______|

I am right handed and worked left to right with thick edge on left, nail 1ST
board and use template to ensure even spacing

HTH Regards Jeff

Andrew Gabriel wrote:
"Bodge" d.joslinatdsl.pipex.com writes:
Will be starting to fix a 5ft high fence next week and have a few questions
which i hope are not to stupid.The post will be 3*3inch, rails 4*4inch.


Personally, I would
use metapost spikes. This will more than double the life of the
posts. I used the hammer in spike type, but you can get ones to
be concreted in instead if you prefer.

Concrete stubs are good, too.


Also, you need access to your neighbour's land, as you should
conventionally be putting the featheredge on their side if it's
your fence. Otherwise, you end up giving your neighbour a strip
of your land at least as wide as your fence.

There's the issue of who is being kept out, too - the boards
ou on the outside of your property for that reason, it looks
very odd the other way around, I usually have a laugh at the
wznkers who fit the stuff the wrong way around! Once I even
saw a pillack who'd poy a ledged door in a wall - the wrong
way around!

In article ,
says...
snip
There's the issue of who is being kept out, too - the boards
ou on the outside of your property for that reason, it looks
very odd the other way around, I usually have a laugh at the
wznkers who fit the stuff the wrong way around!

While it would be odd to have a fence that borders a right of way facing
inwards, I don't see a problem with having the good side facing in if
the other side is just another enclosed garden.

Once I even
saw a pillack who'd poy a ledged door in a wall - the wrong
way around!

That's a bit silly :-)

Rob Morley wrote:
chrispbacon says...
snip

There's the issue of who is being kept out, too - the boards
ou on the outside of your property for that reason, it looks
very odd the other way around, I usually have a laugh at the
wznkers who fit the stuff the wrong way around!

While it would be odd to have a fence that borders a right of way facing
inwards, I don't see a problem with having the good side facing in if
the other side is just another enclosed garden.

It's the effect on the eye - I like keeping people out, not being
kept out! I have noticed about 200 yards of fence newly errected
on my travels, the rails face the road. It looks really odd. Should
someone be walking back from the pub, and lean against it for a
rest, or a fag, it might pop the boards off!


Once I even
saw a pillack who'd poy a ledged door in a wall - the wrong
way around!


That's a bit silly :-)

It looks it - painted white, too.

In article ,
says...
Rob Morley wrote:
chrispbacon says...
snip

There's the issue of who is being kept out, too - the boards
ou on the outside of your property for that reason, it looks
very odd the other way around, I usually have a laugh at the
wznkers who fit the stuff the wrong way around!

While it would be odd to have a fence that borders a right of way facing
inwards, I don't see a problem with having the good side facing in if
the other side is just another enclosed garden.

It's the effect on the eye - I like keeping people out, not being
kept out!

I'd never thought of it like that - the only wooden fence that I'm
responsible for is a low featheredge against a tall hedge and it would
be silly for that to face any way but away from the hedge (and thus
towards my garden).

In article ,
Rob Morley writes:

While it would be odd to have a fence that borders a right of way facing
inwards, I don't see a problem with having the good side facing in if
the other side is just another enclosed garden.

If there's a dispute about the boundary and fence ownership at
sometime in the future, and land registry records don't say,
then one way this is resolved is to look at the fence position
and structure. The flat face would be deemed to be the boundary
with the fence all on one side of it, that side owning the
fence and the land it stands on. So don't erect a fence the
wrong way round unless you are happy to give it and the land
it stands on to your neighbour. Also, after 12 years, your
neighbour can claim as theirs the thin strip of your land which
you fenced off your access to.

If you really want the face of a fence to face you, it might
be better for you to pay your neighbour to put up a fence of
your mutual choosing on their side of the boundary line.

--
Andrew Gabriel

In article ,
says...
In article ,
Rob Morley writes:

While it would be odd to have a fence that borders a right of way facing
inwards, I don't see a problem with having the good side facing in if
the other side is just another enclosed garden.

If there's a dispute about the boundary and fence ownership at
sometime in the future, and land registry records don't say,
then one way this is resolved is to look at the fence position
and structure.

The deeds to my property clearly show what belongs to whom.

The flat face would be deemed to be the boundary
with the fence all on one side of it, that side owning the
fence and the land it stands on. So don't erect a fence the
wrong way round unless you are happy to give it and the land
it stands on to your neighbour. Also, after 12 years, your
neighbour can claim as theirs the thin strip of your land which
you fenced off your access to.

Surely you just have to string a bit of galvanised wire along the back
of the posts, thus also depriving the neighbour of access to the land?