"BigWallop" wrote
| There should be knob on the regulator that switches between the settings.
| It may be like a small radio tuner knob, but it should be there. I can't
| see Baxi making this type of adjustment to difficult for the installer to
| change, so have a look around the front of the gas intake valve for a
little
| knob. Check it isn't covered over with a cap.

I think on my Baxi it's a screw-tightened slidey thing on the front of the
boiler, visible when the fire front is taken off. Or maybe that's just an
aide-memoire indicator to what it's been set to?

Owain

Mike Ring wrote:

Thanks for the reply, Ed

Mike Ring wrote:

The 'power' is set by adjusting the burner pressure on the gas valve.
The original installer must have decided that the boiler was too big
for the circuit and decided to turn it down a bit.
I don't think he considered this - there is an option for a smaller boiler
which I would have chosen if I'd known anything; he should have steered me
to it, when the point was raised I said "more, more" and he should have
explained that 50btu was too much
I would expect that
this installation is short cyling becasue it is doing water heating
only ATM and would improve a bit when the heating is switched on.
Also if you choose the lowest setting you might not have enough for
mid winter.

I very rarely heat water, and it short cycles in midwinter - I've tried the
pump and balancing, but I don't seem to be ablr to get anywhere near enough
kiliwatts away

You could try to see what effect altering the pump speed has, it might
be simpler than messing with the boiler. Also if you do alter the
boiler you have to be competant to do so, which means should know
about and be familiar with U-gauges, leak detection fluid, and the
specifics of the gas valve/regualtor for the boiler etc.

The blurb says "the two models - 57 and 45 - have boiler range outputs as
shown (57k max, 50k mid, 45k min) "each appliance is preset at it's
midrange heat input; it looks as though there ought to be a fairly
straightforward preset.

I really don't want a new boiler!

I'm familiar with some of the other specific models in this series.
The heat input is adjustable over a continuously variable range by
adjusting the burner pressure.
You will need the instructions to find out where the test point is.
The regulator itself is likely to be a screw slot that is accessible
after you have undone a dust cover.

Whilst you could set the burner anywhere within the permitted range the
rating plate shows 3 specific values so that you can record the
'correct' setting for others in the future.

I would guess this boiler has already seen its best years.

--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html

Ed Sirett wrote in
:

I really don't want a new boiler!

I'm familiar with some of the other specific models in this series.
The heat input is adjustable over a continuously variable range by
adjusting the burner pressure.
You will need the instructions to find out where the test point is.
The regulator itself is likely to be a screw slot that is accessible
after you have undone a dust cover.

Whilst you could set the burner anywhere within the permitted range
the rating plate shows 3 specific values so that you can record the
'correct' setting for others in the future.

I would guess this boiler has already seen its best years.

WHAT!! It was put in in 97 and cost 2and a half grand!!

However, thanks to all; your comments appear to make sense against the
manual, which is very quiet about it but does have pictures which tie in
with your comments, but calls it a governor.

I also noticed "lint filters" which are probably 5 years overdue for
cleaning - my hovel's a right dust trap, so I'll have a go at it when I can
work out how to get the front off. Can't be harder than me Mums.

Thanx again

Mike R

Mike Ring wrote:

Ed Sirett wrote in
:

I really don't want a new boiler!

I'm familiar with some of the other specific models in this series.
The heat input is adjustable over a continuously variable range by
adjusting the burner pressure.
You will need the instructions to find out where the test point is.
The regulator itself is likely to be a screw slot that is accessible
after you have undone a dust cover.

Whilst you could set the burner anywhere within the permitted range
the rating plate shows 3 specific values so that you can record the
'correct' setting for others in the future.

I would guess this boiler has already seen its best years.

WHAT!! It was put in in 97 and cost 2and a half grand!!

Aha - I presume this is one of the more recent versions of a back
boiler.
With electronic ignition rather than a permanent pilot light, and a
fashionable fire.
But otherwise much the same idea. CastIron(?), Conventional convection
flue, Max 16kW.

Sorry the Bermuda name covers a BIG range of model spanning the years.


However, thanks to all; your comments appear to make sense against the
manual, which is very quiet about it but does have pictures which tie in
with your comments, but calls it a governor.

The term is interchangeable as described in the gas fitting FAQ.

I also noticed "lint filters" which are probably 5 years overdue for
cleaning - my hovel's a right dust trap, so I'll have a go at it when I can
work out how to get the front off. Can't be harder than me Mums.

Getting into back boilers is an black art. Every model seem to be
different.
Often they are held by screws which are out of reach of ordinary length
screwdrivers.
Some of the screws are easy to use but are cunningly concealed.

These boiler are one of those appliances which you really do have to be
serviced every year.

You will need a U-gauge and length of 6mm tubing (the short one on the
U-gauge is to keep the water in when not in use and to loop through the
hanging hole so as to hang the U-gage on a pipe (say) -it won't stretch
to the gas valve ). Also leak detection fluid to apply to the test
point(s) after you have disconnected the tube and reclosed the screw.

In general test points are either like the one on the outlet of a gas
meter (the screw is removed completely) or they are like a very very
steep little volcano with a straight electric terminal type screw deep
in the crater (which is simply slackened).

It is relatively easy to over tighten the test screws making it nigh on
impossible to open without breaking the screw head the next time.

There is no set pattern for which way the adjusting screw will move the
governor.
Note there is often a _lot_ of backlash in the adjustment mechanism.


HTH

--
Ed Sirett Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html