Mike Ring wrote:

Ed Sirett wrote in
:

I really don't want a new boiler!

I'm familiar with some of the other specific models in this series.
The heat input is adjustable over a continuously variable range by
adjusting the burner pressure.
You will need the instructions to find out where the test point is.
The regulator itself is likely to be a screw slot that is accessible
after you have undone a dust cover.

Whilst you could set the burner anywhere within the permitted range
the rating plate shows 3 specific values so that you can record the
'correct' setting for others in the future.

I would guess this boiler has already seen its best years.

WHAT!! It was put in in 97 and cost 2and a half grand!!

Aha - I presume this is one of the more recent versions of a back
boiler.
With electronic ignition rather than a permanent pilot light, and a
fashionable fire.
But otherwise much the same idea. CastIron(?), Conventional convection
flue, Max 16kW.

Sorry the Bermuda name covers a BIG range of model spanning the years.


However, thanks to all; your comments appear to make sense against the
manual, which is very quiet about it but does have pictures which tie in
with your comments, but calls it a governor.

The term is interchangeable as described in the gas fitting FAQ.

I also noticed "lint filters" which are probably 5 years overdue for
cleaning - my hovel's a right dust trap, so I'll have a go at it when I can
work out how to get the front off. Can't be harder than me Mums.

Getting into back boilers is an black art. Every model seem to be
different.
Often they are held by screws which are out of reach of ordinary length
screwdrivers.
Some of the screws are easy to use but are cunningly concealed.

These boiler are one of those appliances which you really do have to be
serviced every year.

You will need a U-gauge and length of 6mm tubing (the short one on the
U-gauge is to keep the water in when not in use and to loop through the
hanging hole so as to hang the U-gage on a pipe (say) -it won't stretch
to the gas valve ). Also leak detection fluid to apply to the test
point(s) after you have disconnected the tube and reclosed the screw.

In general test points are either like the one on the outlet of a gas
meter (the screw is removed completely) or they are like a very very
steep little volcano with a straight electric terminal type screw deep
in the crater (which is simply slackened).

It is relatively easy to over tighten the test screws making it nigh on
impossible to open without breaking the screw head the next time.

There is no set pattern for which way the adjusting screw will move the
governor.
Note there is often a _lot_ of backlash in the adjustment mechanism.


HTH

--
Ed Sirett Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html