Our 1930's semi has a draughty wooden front door. I've tried various
methods of stopping the draughts, but either the gap between where the
frame and the door meet (see below) is too large - ie. the foam or
rubber flap strip doesn't adequately fill the gap - or, if I manage to
fill it adequately, the door will not pull shut easily onto the cylinder
lock - either bouncing open as we shut it, or requiring a huge pull to
get it to lock. I can't adjust the lock placement by such a small
amount due to the position of the current mounting holes etc. A large
movement might be okay - but a small one as required is more difficult.

-------
|
Frame |
|
|
----
| --- This gap here
| ---------------------------------
| |
| | Door
-- ---------------------------------

I've tried improving this 2 or 3 times - but I haven't been successful.
Most of the door is okay - but its the bottom edge which is the worst
- but it is quite draughty, causing our hallway to get quite cold (added
with the understair cupboard which is draughty from the suspended floor
which I need to improve).

One option would be to replace it with a new uPVC style door. Well
insulated and draught proof. However, they're very costly, and don't
seem to come with night-latch style locks - rather ones which require
the key to be inserted in the door to lock them - ie. easy to leave
unlocked if you don't consciously remember to lock it (easy for people
who haven't had this kind of door before). Also, these tend to be
slightly smaller openings than traditional doors (as the frame seems to
take up more space), and also tend to have a raised threshold (may be
possible to get flat ones, but would they be more expensive?).

Another option would be to replace the front door/frame etc with a new
wooden one. Preferable considering the looks etc (prefer wooden over
the modern doors, especially for a 1930's semi). Possibly cheaper - but
probably more work that replacing with a pre-hung uPVC one (which may be
fitted by the supplier). Also still has the chance of it not sealing
adequately (my door hanging skills so far have been adequate, but far
from perfect!)

Also, I understand front doors are also covered by the same Part '?' as
windows etc - so in theory would require either a FENSA company, or
getting the council to rubber stamp it afterwards. Are wooden doors
still allowed, or are their insulation properties not sufficient to be
allowed any more?

Thanks

D

David Hearn wrote:

-------
|
Frame |
|
|
----
| --- This gap here
| ---------------------------------
| |
| | Door
-- ---------------------------------
^
|
Use draught strip in here - "Atomic Strip" used to be the
best stuff, a phosphor bronze strip nailed on and "sprung"
with a tool to give this sort of effect:

|
x_____________|
| ________
| |
| /|
| / |
|/ | door
|| |
__|| |________


You can still get this stuff from the USA, but I haven't seen
it here. You may be able to use batwing seal:


-10mm-
______ ^
| / |
| / |
| 10mm
| / |
|/ v

which is available in the UK. It is glued into the angle marked
"x" above, and the door edge seals into the open bit of the
diagonal of the batwing seal.

I've recently taped a 2mm thick spacer to the front of a front
door, and with the door closed filled in the remaining gap
between the spacer and the stop with car body filler - the
2mm gap left perfectly accommodates draught strip (be careful
not to glue the door shut!!).

In article ,
says...
Our 1930's semi has a draughty wooden front door. I've tried various
methods of stopping the draughts, but either the gap between where the
frame and the door meet (see below) is too large - ie. the foam or
rubber flap strip doesn't adequately fill the gap - or, if I manage to
fill it adequately, the door will not pull shut easily onto the cylinder
lock - either bouncing open as we shut it, or requiring a huge pull to
get it to lock. I can't adjust the lock placement by such a small
amount due to the position of the current mounting holes etc. A large
movement might be okay - but a small one as required is more difficult.


Try this sort of draught excluder

-------
|
Frame |__
| |
| | -- plastic mounting strip
----||||
| || -- rubber blade
| ---------------------------------
| |
| | Door
-- ---------------------------------

I've tried improving this 2 or 3 times - but I haven't been successful.
Most of the door is okay - but its the bottom edge which is the worst

What sort of threshold does it have? Brush strips are the usual way to
go on the bottom of doors that have a flat threshold.

-------
|
Frame |
|
|
----
| --- This gap here
| ---------------------------------
| |
| | Door
-- ---------------------------------

Both gaps are difficult to deal with because usually they aren't
uniform, but "this gap here" is the one to go for IMO.
A quick fix that has worked for me in the past is to smear the edge of
the door with grease or washing up liquid, close the door, and fill the
gap with car body filler. Sets hard in 10 minutes and shouldn't crack
and fall out with the impact of the door. If there's room, put some
panel pins in to act as posts for the filler.
Should work until the door swells/shrinks and assumes a new position :-)