hi allyou've prob been asked this several times before but after looking on posts left right and center on diy not, I'm now totally confused so thought I would drop an email to you...

I've got some reclaimed parquet flooring to be laid on a self levelled compounded concrete floor...

the parquet we have has got bitumen on and from the posts I've seen it looks like the majority of this has got to come off... (fun job from the sounds of it!)

anyhow this is the bit that’s baffling me, is what to stick it down with? the f21 styccobond stuff, techy dept there seems to be saying all the old bitumen has got to come off it to bare wood - which I know is not going to happen! also having phoned around lots of local people this seems to be hard to get hold of. also being a 1960's house not totally convinced there is a dpm (2 other ground floor rooms have parquet flooring, and this room being the old kitchen presumably had the old vinyl tiles, which I believe had the bitumen down so assuming that is the dpm. I guess another question will be does the f21 act as a dpm?) on the synaprufe front, their techy team say that this isnt suitable for parquet flloring and is now amending their web site...

I'm also wantig the floor to be laid in herringbone style so matches the other rooms, where do you start laying it? also is the 2 row flat edge essential as my other half is not keen on this..

and then to the finishing.. is it ok to use some sort of varnish/sealer once sanded, so that I don’t need to wax floor every 6 months? does this work? looking for a least maintenance floor, which will still look nice ie a compromise...

any help or advice you can give would be much appreaciated.... thanks in adavance for any help c

ceg wrote:

I've got some reclaimed parquet flooring to be laid on a self levelled
compounded concrete floor...

the parquet we have has got bitumen on and from the posts I've seen it
looks like the majority of this has got to come off...

why?


anyhow this is the bit that's baffling me, is what to stick it down
with?

Bitumen is the only thing that'll stick to bitumen, so I guess thats
what you'll be using.


the f21 styccobond stuff, techy dept there seems to be saying all
the old bitumen has got to come off it to bare wood - which I know is
not going to happen! also having phoned around lots of local people
this seems to be hard to get hold of.

so why use it rather than use bitumen?


I'm also wantig the floor to be laid in herringbone style so matches
the other rooms, where do you start laying it? also is the 2 row flat
edge essential as my other half is not keen on this..

lay it however you want.


and then to the finishing.. is it ok to use some sort of varnish/sealer
once sanded, so that I don't need to wax floor every 6 months?

yes, but be sure to avoid anything tinted. At least if you want it to
look decent in another year.


NT

"ceg" wrote in message
...

hi allyou've prob been asked this several times before but after
looking
on posts left right and center on diy not, I'm now totally confused
so
thought I would drop an email to you...

I've got some reclaimed parquet flooring to be laid on a self
levelled
compounded concrete floor...

the parquet we have has got bitumen on and from the posts I've seen
it
looks like the majority of this has got to come off... (fun job from
the sounds of it!)

anyhow this is the bit that's baffling me, is what to stick it down
with? the f21 styccobond stuff, techy dept there seems to be saying
all
the old bitumen has got to come off it to bare wood - which I know
is
not going to happen! also having phoned around lots of local people
this seems to be hard to get hold of. also being a 1960's house not
totally convinced there is a dpm (2 other ground floor rooms have
parquet flooring, and this room being the old kitchen presumably had
the old vinyl tiles, which I believe had the bitumen down so
assuming
that is the dpm. I guess another question will be does the f21 act
as a
dpm?) on the synaprufe front, their techy team say that this isnt
suitable for parquet flloring and is now amending their web site...

I'm also wantig the floor to be laid in herringbone style so matches
the other rooms, where do you start laying it? also is the 2 row
flat
edge essential as my other half is not keen on this..

and then to the finishing.. is it ok to use some sort of
varnish/sealer
once sanded, so that I don't need to wax floor every 6 months? does
this
work? looking for a least maintenance floor, which will still look
nice
ie a compromise...

any help or advice you can give would be much appreaciated....
thanks
in adavance for any help c


--
ceg

When I laid a 12' x 12' reclaimed parquet floor in my workshop I left
the old bitumen on, and just dipped the underside of the blocks in the
melted bitumen bath (large pan on electric ring) then sid them into
place. It's still holding 15 years later so can't be all wrong!

(I know - luxury for a workshop, but the price was right and it saves
chipping tools when you drop them G)

AWEM

Andrew Mawson wrote:
"ceg" wrote
...

I've got some reclaimed parquet flooring to be laid

When I laid a 12' x 12' reclaimed parquet floor in my workshop

(I know - luxury for a workshop, but the price was right and it saves
chipping tools when you drop them G)

You flash bugger !

I've got a bit of old carpet over a concrete floor in mine !

Cheers.

Paul.

We also have a parquet floor from the early 70's.
Had to take some of it up to get at the heating pipes.

Re-laying it was quite easy once I had a flat surface.
I brushed on PVA. Could have used bitumen but
the PVA was fine.

Matthew