I have just been let down by the facia company who where going to put
fascias on our new extension and garage. I am going to attempt it myself as
the roofer is booked next week. Can anyone give me a few tips about
thickness of facia to use and how to put it up. The facia will be 15 metre
long. The rafters are cut level with brickwork which will make me have to
cut the soffitt lip of in places and leave it on in others to accept a 2
foot soffitt. It is all single storey. Also how do I attach the facia to
brickwork on the gable ends of the garage. Any help is much appreciated. I
have two local suppliers roplas and eurocell to choose from.
Many thanks.
Neil

On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 18:17:02 +0100, "Neil"
wrote:

I have just been let down by the facia company who where going to put
fascias on our new extension and garage. I am going to attempt it myself as
the roofer is booked next week. Can anyone give me a few tips about
thickness of facia to use and how to put it up. The facia will be 15 metre
long. The rafters are cut level with brickwork which will make me have to
cut the soffitt lip of in places and leave it on in others to accept a 2
foot soffitt. It is all single storey. Also how do I attach the facia to
brickwork on the gable ends of the garage. Any help is much appreciated. I
have two local suppliers roplas and eurocell to choose from.
Many thanks.
Neil

Don't you put the facias on after the roof, anyways thats the way I am
doing it.

The best way to do it, is when the roof is on, and the scaffold is
still there.

Or am I doing it arse-about-face ?

Rick

Hi Rick,
The roofer said facias and gutter first, and he has been doing it for 30
years locally so I guess thats the correct way.
Neil
"Rick" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 18:17:02 +0100, "Neil"
wrote:

I have just been let down by the facia company who where going to put
fascias on our new extension and garage. I am going to attempt it myself
as
the roofer is booked next week. Can anyone give me a few tips about
thickness of facia to use and how to put it up. The facia will be 15
metre
long. The rafters are cut level with brickwork which will make me have to
cut the soffitt lip of in places and leave it on in others to accept a 2
foot soffitt. It is all single storey. Also how do I attach the facia to
brickwork on the gable ends of the garage. Any help is much appreciated.
I
have two local suppliers roplas and eurocell to choose from.
Many thanks.
Neil

Don't you put the facias on after the roof, anyways thats the way I am
doing it.

The best way to do it, is when the roof is on, and the scaffold is
still there.

Or am I doing it arse-about-face ?

Rick

On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 19:04:40 +0100, "Neil"
wrote:

Hi Rick,
The roofer said facias and gutter first, and he has been doing it for 30
years locally so I guess thats the correct way.
Neil
"Rick" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 18:17:02 +0100, "Neil"
wrote:

I have just been let down by the facia company who where going to put
fascias on our new extension and garage. I am going to attempt it myself
as
the roofer is booked next week. Can anyone give me a few tips about
thickness of facia to use and how to put it up. The facia will be 15
metre
long. The rafters are cut level with brickwork which will make me have to
cut the soffitt lip of in places and leave it on in others to accept a 2
foot soffitt. It is all single storey. Also how do I attach the facia to
brickwork on the gable ends of the garage. Any help is much appreciated.
I
have two local suppliers roplas and eurocell to choose from.
Many thanks.
Neil

Don't you put the facias on after the roof, anyways thats the way I am
doing it.

The best way to do it, is when the roof is on, and the scaffold is
still there.

Or am I doing it arse-about-face ?

Rick



Out of interest, what happens when a slate slides down the roof, and
lands on the brand new gutter ? How do you get the bobbom battons off,
then the new facia have been fastend to them ?

Anyways the size of the facia boards depends on wahter you are ripping
the existing off, or overcladding. If removing the existing, you need
the this (15mm ish) boards, if overcladding 5mm.

look here http://www.facias.co.uk/ to see the large number of choices
you are about to have to make.

Rick

Rick

Cheers Rick,
I guess he must be a carefull worker. It would be interesting to know if any
one else has a view on the best way. Tile first or facia first. I am just
been guided by the roofer. I will have a look at the site you suggested.
Neil

he has been doing it for 30 years locally so I guess thats the correct way.

My tiler reckons he's been doing it for over 20 years....still managed to
F*** up my bathroom. Any experience a tradesman tell you he has has to be
taken with a pinch of salt.

**** I'm ****ed off, could of done it better myself and saved a packet. (OK
it would have taken twice as long, but thats what happens when you take care
over something)

"Neil" wrote in message
...
Cheers Rick,
I guess he must be a carefull worker. It would be interesting to know if
any one else has a view on the best way. Tile first or facia first. I am
just been guided by the roofer. I will have a look at the site you
suggested.
Neil

Neil, I wouldn't cut the lip off the PVC if I was you. After doing exactly
that on my garage the cut edge looks rough and the PVC is not flat. If I
was doing it again I would fix two rows of roof battens horizontally on the
cut ends of the rafters to give a solid continuous fixing for the PVC and
make the space for the lip underneath. It looks soooo much better!

On the gable ends, if you haven't got any timbers in the wall to fix the
barge boards to, then I would do the same - two rows of battens.

BTW, your roofer is correct. The fascia HAS to be fitted before the roof
tiles otherwise there's nothing for him to rest the bottom row of tiles on.
Also, if you have time to do it, it's a great idea (if you're not using
eaves ventilators) to provide a thin sheet, say 3mm ply, laid on top of the
facia and fixed to the rafters to support the underfelt over the gap. This
keeps it from sagging and collecting water behind the fascia.

Peter

On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 21:33:51 +0100, "Peter Taylor"
wrote:


"Neil" wrote in message
...
Cheers Rick,
I guess he must be a carefull worker. It would be interesting to know if
any one else has a view on the best way. Tile first or facia first. I am
just been guided by the roofer. I will have a look at the site you
suggested.
Neil

Neil, I wouldn't cut the lip off the PVC if I was you. After doing exactly
that on my garage the cut edge looks rough and the PVC is not flat.

If the UPVC is too wide, don't you cut the top of it, the bit that
will be hidden by the tiles ?

If I
was doing it again I would fix two rows of roof battens horizontally on the
cut ends of the rafters to give a solid continuous fixing for the PVC and
make the space for the lip underneath. It looks soooo much better!

On the gable ends, if you haven't got any timbers in the wall to fix the
barge boards to, then I would do the same - two rows of battens.

BTW, your roofer is correct. The fascia HAS to be fitted before the roof
tiles otherwise there's nothing for him to rest the bottom row of tiles on.

Is that not what the "kicker" is for, the bottom batton is right on
the bottom end of the rafters, and its twice as thick.

Maybe the guy what taught me went to a different school to yours. Mine
learnt from his dad & grandad etc .......

Rick

Also, if you have time to do it, it's a great idea (if you're not using
eaves ventilators) to provide a thin sheet, say 3mm ply, laid on top of the
facia and fixed to the rafters to support the underfelt over the gap. This
keeps it from sagging and collecting water behind the fascia.

Peter

"Rick" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 21:33:51 +0100, "Peter Taylor"
wrote:


"Neil" wrote in message
...
Cheers Rick,
I guess he must be a carefull worker. It would be interesting to know if
any one else has a view on the best way. Tile first or facia first. I
am
just been guided by the roofer. I will have a look at the site you
suggested.
Neil

Neil, I wouldn't cut the lip off the PVC if I was you. After doing
exactly
that on my garage the cut edge looks rough and the PVC is not flat.

If the UPVC is too wide, don't you cut the top of it, the bit that
will be hidden by the tiles ?

Yes, but I don't mean the height. We ARE discussing PVC fascias, right?
I'm talking about the short leg of the L section at the bottom of the fascia
which supports the soffit board, or which goes against the brickwork if
there's no soffit. Neil said he was going to cut that off and I said it's
not a good idea.

If I
was doing it again I would fix two rows of roof battens horizontally on
the
cut ends of the rafters to give a solid continuous fixing for the PVC and
make the space for the lip underneath. It looks soooo much better!

On the gable ends, if you haven't got any timbers in the wall to fix the
barge boards to, then I would do the same - two rows of battens.

BTW, your roofer is correct. The fascia HAS to be fitted before the roof
tiles otherwise there's nothing for him to rest the bottom row of tiles
on.

Is that not what the "kicker" is for, the bottom batton is right on
the bottom end of the rafters, and its twice as thick.

Maybe the guy what taught me went to a different school to yours. Mine
learnt from his dad & grandad etc .......

There's always more than one way to kill a cat and this might be a regional
thing. For me it's normal to nail individual triangular sprockets at the
foot of each each rafter, sometimes with a continuous board on top to
support the felt, as I mentioned before. The bottom edge of the eaves tiles
rests on the top edge of the fascia board, which is what Neil's roofer is
asking for.

Your way is better in some respects, but if you use a plain square section
of timber for the kicker it would raise the bottom edge of the eaves tiles
too high and cause the underfelt to sag and collect water. You'd need to
chamfer the kicker. I think we probably need a drawing of this to discuss
it properly!! )

Peter

Thanks for all the help. I am going to put a 4 inch x 1 inch batten full
length of rafters to save cutting the facia lips. I only wish I had left
rafters longer to start, but the original facia guy who let me down said to
cut them flush. Can any one see a problem putting the battens in?
Neil