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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Some background:
I need to hang some pine kitchen cupboard doors to two small-ish alcoves, either side of a fireplace, to fill them in, three doors in each. The alcoves are wider than the doors by approx. 120mm each side. I plan to fit a plinth to the bottom to match the height of the skirting, then a door, then above that a 2" pine seperating piece, then a door, seperator, door, top piece. To fill in the gaps either side of the doors I will run a length of pine up each side, fixed to the shelves probably. The problem I can't think of a way round is fitting the doors to the pine sides because they will be edge-on to the doors - i.e. flush next to the doors, not like a cupboard. I could use normal hinges, obviarsely, but I'd like to use normal kitchen cupboard hinges if possible because the doors already have the large circular cut-outs in them. Are there any kitchen hinges which are suitable for mounting in a "straight line" so that the doors end up flush with the surrounding pine? I've seen ones which open differing degrees but these would need to open...*thinks*...270 degrees at least, preferably more, because they'd start at 180 degrees open already, iiswim. Si |
#2
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#3
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Rob Morley wrote:
Why not just stick a bit of 2x2 behind the pine strips and mount the doors using normal cupboard hinges like so? Yes, that's what I might have to do but I would have liked to use the already-cut holes for some clever kitchen unit style hinges if possible. Having furkled in Screwfix and Toolstation I don't think it is possible though. Not to worry. Si |
#4
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On Tue, 18 Oct 2005 15:43:21 +0100, "Mungo \"two sheds\" Toadfoot"
wrote: Are there any kitchen hinges which are suitable for mounting in a "straight line" so that the doors end up flush with the surrounding pine? I've seen ones which open differing degrees but these would need to open...*thinks*...270 degrees at least, preferably more, because they'd start at 180 degrees open already, iiswim. Yes! http://www.hettich.com/hft/pro/en/tr...ducts/5804.htm Download the catalog, link on the top right, and search the PDF for "W90". This is the widget Hettich has for what you want to do. Other manufacturers will have it too. Thomas Prufer |
#5
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Thomas Prufer wrote:
http://www.hettich.com/hft/pro/en/tr...ducts/5804.htm Download the catalog, link on the top right, and search the PDF for "W90". This is the widget Hettich has for what you want to do. Other manufacturers will have it too. The very thing! Thanks Thomas. Si |
#6
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Mungo "two sheds" Toadfoot wrote:
Thomas Prufer wrote: http://www.hettich.com/hft/pro/en/tr...ducts/5804.htm Download the catalog, link on the top right, and search the PDF for "W90". This is the widget Hettich has for what you want to do. Other manufacturers will have it too. The very thing! Thanks Thomas. Si And Isaac Lord have them too! "Blind corner cabinet hinges" - must remember that one. Si |
#7
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Mungo "two sheds" Toadfoot wrote:
Yes, that's what I might have to do but I would have liked to use the already-cut holes for some clever kitchen unit style hinges if possible. Having furkled in Screwfix and Toolstation I don't think it is possible though. Why not? Use the supplied inges, and fix the mounting tab on the 2x2 as in the previous picture - job done. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#8
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John Rumm wrote:
Use the supplied inges, and fix the mounting tab on the 2x2 as in the previous picture - job done. Yes - I'm obviously a bit slow today ![]() Si |
#9
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Mungo "two sheds" Toadfoot wrote:
To fill in the gaps either side of the doors I will run a length of pine up each side, fixed to the shelves probably. The problem I can't think of a way round is fitting the doors to the pine sides because they will be edge-on to the doors - i.e. flush next to the doors, not like a cupboard. Secure a piece of 2x2 planed to the back of the "length of pine", then use ordinary kitchen cupboard hinges secured to them, i.e. (plan) alcove ############### ####################### # # ch. breast # # # # # # # # @, over there- is 2x2 # # # @ # # # #--=========--############################ # #^ ^ ^ # | | | | | | "pine" | | | | door | | "pine" I could use normal hinges, obviarsely, Goodness me, how *frightfully* coarse. |
#10
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Rob Morley wrote:
Why not just stick a bit of 2x2 behind the pine strips and mount the doors using normal cupboard hinges like so? Ah! Mr. Morley, I agree. |
#11
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Mungo "two sheds" Toadfoot wrote:
Rob Morley wrote: Why not just stick a bit of 2x2 behind the pine strips and mount the doors using normal cupboard hinges like so? Yes, that's what I might have to do but I would have liked to use the already-cut holes for some clever kitchen unit style hinges if possible. That's what he, and I , are suggesting. |
#12
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Mungo "two sheds" Toadfoot wrote:
I could use normal hinges, obviarsely, but I'd like to use normal kitchen cupboard hinges if possible because the doors already have the large circular cut-outs in them. I always have problems with these concealed hinges. When you buy them in any of the sheds they never have any instuctions at all. I know how they fit, but obviarsely (love that word) different carcass & door thicknesses need different offsets from the edge of the door and different offsets from the edge of the carcass. Dave |
#13
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#14
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On Tue, 18 Oct 2005 22:59:31 GMT, "david lang"
wrote: I always have problems with these concealed hinges. When you buy them in any of the sheds they never have any instuctions at all. I know how they fit, but obviarsely (love that word) different carcass & door thicknesses need different offsets from the edge of the door and different offsets from the edge of the carcass. Download the Hettich catalog... The printed version is a huge bound tome, full of specs and detail drawings and weird specialist hardware; they'll have tables of offsets for carcass thickness. Thomas Prufer |
#15
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Owain wrote:
John Rumm wrote: Use the supplied inges, 'ere, 'ave this couple of aitches I've got spare. Many thhhanks, whhhhere shall I put 'em all? -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#16
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Thomas Prufer wrote:
On Tue, 18 Oct 2005 22:59:31 GMT, "david lang" wrote: I always have problems with these concealed hinges. When you buy them in any of the sheds they never have any instuctions at all. I know how they fit, but obviarsely (love that word) different carcass & door thicknesses need different offsets from the edge of the door and different offsets from the edge of the carcass. Download the Hettich catalog... The printed version is a huge bound tome, full of specs and detail drawings and weird specialist hardware; they'll have tables of offsets for carcass thickness. Thomas Prufer Or Woodfit if they're still around. They used to do all kinds of spacers for thicker doors/carcasses |
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