Hi All

I have a fairly light duty table saw
http://www.charnwood.net/ProductDesc...&stockref=W615 which is fine
for what I do, but due to the small size of my workshop I've mounted on
castors so I can slide it out of the way when not in use.

The castors are rubber tyres and the front two are locking type - problem is
on a dusty floor they seem to slide along when you feed timber into the
machine.

It's OK cutting thin stuff where you don't need to push much, but on 18mm
ply for example you have to push a little more and it slides.

I'm thinking of building a base unit for it & doing away with the legs, I
could use the extra storage. Any suggestions on a base that is mobile but
won't slide?

Dave

On Mon, 17 Oct 2005 23:01:38 GMT, "david lang"
wrote:

Hi All

I have a fairly light duty table saw
http://www.charnwood.net/ProductDesc...&stockref=W615 which is fine
for what I do, but due to the small size of my workshop I've mounted on
castors so I can slide it out of the way when not in use.

The castors are rubber tyres and the front two are locking type - problem is
on a dusty floor they seem to slide along when you feed timber into the
machine.

It's OK cutting thin stuff where you don't need to push much, but on 18mm
ply for example you have to push a little more and it slides.

I'm thinking of building a base unit for it & doing away with the legs, I
could use the extra storage. Any suggestions on a base that is mobile but
won't slide?

Dave



If you had all four wheels locking it would help a bit.


Otherwise, there are mobility bases which have smaller wheels and work
quite well.

e.g. Axminster part 708118


I have one of these under my bandsaw and another under my drill press
to allow them to be moved around, but the bandsaw weighs 150kg and the
drill press about 100kg so they don't tend to slide much anyway.

Even so, I reckon that you could make an improvement.

The alternative would be to use some screw-down feet although that
becomes inconvenient.

If you are cutting large sheets it might not be a bad idea to add some
weight to the whole thing by making a box type base from ply -
footprint of the saw and say 100mm high. Put that base on a mobility
base and bolt the saw to it firmly. Then fill the box with dry sand.

This would have the benefits of making the whole thing more stable and
less likely to slip around or tip over.

You are using something to support the material behind the saw after
cutting, aren't you? e.g. a roller or ball stand or similar.


--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

In article ,
says...
Hi All

I have a fairly light duty table saw
http://www.charnwood.net/ProductDesc...&stockref=W615 which is fine
for what I do, but due to the small size of my workshop I've mounted on
castors so I can slide it out of the way when not in use.

The castors are rubber tyres and the front two are locking type - problem is
on a dusty floor they seem to slide along when you feed timber into the
machine.

Replace the front castors with metal spikes (bits of steel studding
ground to a point and fixed with a couple of nuts)? Then you can still
wheel it into a corner using the rear castors.
Or you could retain all the castors but fit a spike next to each one
that you can screw down as needed.

"david lang" wrote in message
...
Hi All

I have a fairly light duty table saw
http://www.charnwood.net/ProductDesc...&stockref=W615 which is
fine
for what I do, but due to the small size of my workshop I've mounted on
castors so I can slide it out of the way when not in use.

The castors are rubber tyres and the front two are locking type - problem
is
on a dusty floor they seem to slide along when you feed timber into the
machine.

It's OK cutting thin stuff where you don't need to push much, but on 18mm
ply for example you have to push a little more and it slides.

I'm thinking of building a base unit for it & doing away with the legs, I
could use the extra storage. Any suggestions on a base that is mobile but
won't slide?

Dave


==================
Make the base unit / cupboard from solid wood. When you've finished add two
sloping pieces of wood with wheels at one end and handles at the other end
so that you can use it like a wheelbarrow. The wheels will only be in
contact with the floor when you lift the handles. I've got a metal-cutting
bandsaw done like this (made from steel) and it's rock solid in use and
fairly easy to move.

If necessary make the handles detachable for storage.

Cic.

david lang wrote:
Hi All

I have a fairly light duty table saw
http://www.charnwood.net/ProductDesc...&stockref=W615 which is fine
for what I do, but due to the small size of my workshop I've mounted on
castors so I can slide it out of the way when not in use.

The castors are rubber tyres and the front two are locking type - problem is
on a dusty floor they seem to slide along when you feed timber into the
machine.

It's OK cutting thin stuff where you don't need to push much, but on 18mm
ply for example you have to push a little more and it slides.

I'm thinking of building a base unit for it & doing away with the legs, I
could use the extra storage. Any suggestions on a base that is mobile but
won't slide?

Dave



As a quicky you could pile some bricks/heavy blocks (in a card box to
protect that lovely paint) on the plinth half way up the legs ... this
might help a bit in the short term.

Alex.

"Cicero" wrote in message
o.uk...

"david lang" wrote in message
...
Hi All

I have a fairly light duty table saw
http://www.charnwood.net/ProductDesc...&stockref=W615 which is
fine
for what I do, but due to the small size of my workshop I've mounted on
castors so I can slide it out of the way when not in use.

The castors are rubber tyres and the front two are locking type - problem
is
on a dusty floor they seem to slide along when you feed timber into the
machine.

It's OK cutting thin stuff where you don't need to push much, but on 18mm
ply for example you have to push a little more and it slides.

I'm thinking of building a base unit for it & doing away with the legs, I
could use the extra storage. Any suggestions on a base that is mobile
but
won't slide?

Dave


==================
Make the base unit / cupboard from solid wood. When you've finished add
two
sloping pieces of wood with wheels at one end and handles at the other end
so that you can use it like a wheelbarrow. The wheels will only be in
contact with the floor when you lift the handles. I've got a metal-cutting
bandsaw done like this (made from steel) and it's rock solid in use and
fairly easy to move.

If necessary make the handles detachable for storage.

Cic.



I just bolted casters to the side of two legs so they just clear the floor.
When you lift the opposite side of the table it "wheelbarrows" easily. (I
got the idea from uk.d-i-y about a year ago when this last came up).

--
LSR

Rob Morley wrote:
In article ,
says...

Hi All

I have a fairly light duty table saw
http://www.charnwood.net/ProductDesc...&stockref=W615 which is fine
for what I do, but due to the small size of my workshop I've mounted on
castors so I can slide it out of the way when not in use.

The castors are rubber tyres and the front two are locking type - problem is
on a dusty floor they seem to slide along when you feed timber into the
machine.


Replace the front castors with metal spikes (bits of steel studding
ground to a point and fixed with a couple of nuts)? Then you can still
wheel it into a corner using the rear castors.
Or you could retain all the castors but fit a spike next to each one
that you can screw down as needed.

Those adjustable castors for cookers are quite good but the thing will
still slide if it's too light. A bag of sand on the base would help but
it doesn't look as though there's room for that.
Looks pretty good for the price. How do you like it? Is the fence easy
to set and accurate back and front? If so there's not much else to worry
about.

Stuart Noble wrote:
Looks pretty good for the price. How do you like it? Is the fence easy
to set and accurate back and front? If so there's not much else to
worry about.

Very happy with the saw, but the fence wasn't good. To their credit
Charnwood replaced it FOC but still not perfect.

I replaced it with an Axminster fence upgrade
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...il e=1&jump=0

The whole thing is now excellent, plenty of wellie from the induction motor,
good flat table, good height/tilt adjustment.

One reason I went for it is that its quick & easy to remove the splitter &
guard so I can cut rebates, tenons etc. Can't use a dado head
unforetunately.

Dave

In message , david lang
writes
Hi All

I have a fairly light duty table saw
http://www.charnwood.net/ProductDesc...&stockref=W615 which is fine
for what I do, but due to the small size of my workshop I've mounted on
castors so I can slide it out of the way when not in use.

The castors are rubber tyres and the front two are locking type - problem is
on a dusty floor they seem to slide along when you feed timber into the
machine.

It's OK cutting thin stuff where you don't need to push much, but on 18mm
ply for example you have to push a little more and it slides.

I'm thinking of building a base unit for it & doing away with the legs, I
could use the extra storage. Any suggestions on a base that is mobile but
won't slide?

Dave



Old Norm (of New Yankee Workshop) did a neat little arrangement on some
large work tables he did.
A bit tricky to explain, but the castors were on hinged planks at each
end of the table. Normally the frame of the table (sawbench in your
case) sits on the floor, with this plank hinged up slightly. Lift one
end of the table up, and the plank drop to the horizontal and another
couple of hinged pieces drop into place and lock said plank, which now
supports the table on the casters. Repeat at the other end and its all
free to wheel around.
Pulling a piece of rope attached to the latch piece releases them and
the castors fold away dropping the table solidly back onto the floor.

http://www.newyankee.com/getphoto2.cgi?0207.jpg

--
steve

One reason I went for it is that its quick & easy to remove the splitter &
guard so I can cut rebates, tenons etc.

Yes, I put mine in a cupboard somewhere about 20 years ago....

Can't use a dado head
unforetunately.

You can always use a wobble washer for shallow, not *too* wide grooves.
I used to pack the blade with layers of masking tape to get a precise
width.
I wonder if a book called Woodworking Aids and Devices is still about.
Jig heaven!

On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 10:34:53 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:


One reason I went for it is that its quick & easy to remove the splitter &
guard so I can cut rebates, tenons etc.

Yes, I put mine in a cupboard somewhere about 20 years ago....

Can't use a dado head
unforetunately.

You can always use a wobble washer for shallow, not *too* wide grooves.
I used to pack the blade with layers of masking tape to get a precise
width.

You *can* do this, but arbors on most saws limit even that. The
insert plate has to be removed or replaced as well.

A push block is important to reduce risk of shredded fingers if
something bad happens.


I wonder if a book called Woodworking Aids and Devices is still about.
Jig heaven!


There are a number of them originating from the US, and not all assume
saws with long arbors and stacked dado sets.


--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

Andy Hall wrote:

You can always use a wobble washer for shallow, not *too* wide grooves.
I used to pack the blade with layers of masking tape to get a precise
width.


You *can* do this, but arbors on most saws limit even that. The
insert plate has to be removed or replaced as well.

Handy for getting an extra 3-4 mm kerf though. You don't need much
packing at the centre of the blade to get a hell of a wobble on the
periphery. I used to use it to make slots for ply tongues.


A push block is important to reduce risk of shredded fingers if
something bad happens.




I wonder if a book called Woodworking Aids and Devices is still about.
Jig heaven!



There are a number of them originating from the US, and not all assume
saws with long arbors and stacked dado sets.



Looks like it's still in print and my local library had it until recently

http://www.woodworking.org/WC/GArchi...oodmanrev.html