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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Neat way for cable to pass through plasterboard
This is probably a dumb question but I haven't found a satisfactory
solution... I have some surface mounted equipment (e.g. heating controller, security controller) into which I must terminate some low voltage (50V) cables (e.g. RS485, PIR sensor connections). The equipment enclosures have knockouts on the underside through which the cables enter. The cables are run within dry lining. What is a neat way to bring the cable out through the plasterboard and up into the equipment? I could simply drill holes in the plasterboard and thread the cable through but this wouldn't look nice. I could have some 20mm conduit coming out of the wall and up into the knockouts which might look a bit better. A surface-mounted junction box (about 250mm width x 90mm height) with rear-entry knockouts occurred to me, but I can't find a decent source. Does anyone have some neat ideas? |
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#3
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Andrew Gabriel wrote:
Drill a rear-entry hole? Unfortunately, room in the back plane of the equipment |
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wrote in message oups.com... This is probably a dumb question but I haven't found a satisfactory solution... I have some surface mounted equipment (e.g. heating controller, security controller) into which I must terminate some low voltage (50V) cables (e.g. RS485, PIR sensor connections). The equipment enclosures have knockouts on the underside through which the cables enter. The cables are run within dry lining. What is a neat way to bring the cable out through the plasterboard and up into the equipment? I could simply drill holes in the plasterboard and thread the cable through but this wouldn't look nice. I could have some 20mm conduit coming out of the wall and up into the knockouts which might look a bit better. A surface-mounted junction box (about 250mm width x 90mm height) with rear-entry knockouts occurred to me, but I can't find a decent source. Does anyone have some neat ideas? Your wall mounted equipment should be fitted to a timber panel which is in turn fixed to the surface of the plaster board wall. This is especially so if the equipment houses mains voltage transformers or switch gear, and it acts as an extra layer of insulator material against the paper surface of the plaster board. It's easier to drill neat holes in the timber panel after cutting a large hole in the plaster board to bring the cables through. The timber panel should also give space to fix clips on the cabling so they are more difficult to pull out of the housings for the equipment. The timber panel allows you drill individual holes for each cable, if you wish, so they are neatly spaced and clipped along the length of the equipment housings. |
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"BigWallop" wrote in message ... wrote in message oups.com... This is probably a dumb question but I haven't found a satisfactory solution... I have some surface mounted equipment (e.g. heating controller, security controller) into which I must terminate some low voltage (50V) cables (e.g. RS485, PIR sensor connections). The equipment enclosures have knockouts on the underside through which the cables enter. The cables are run within dry lining. What is a neat way to bring the cable out through the plasterboard and up into the equipment? I could simply drill holes in the plasterboard and thread the cable through but this wouldn't look nice. I could have some 20mm conduit coming out of the wall and up into the knockouts which might look a bit better. A surface-mounted junction box (about 250mm width x 90mm height) with rear-entry knockouts occurred to me, but I can't find a decent source. Does anyone have some neat ideas? Your wall mounted equipment should be fitted to a timber panel which is in turn fixed to the surface of the plaster board wall. This is especially so if the equipment houses mains voltage transformers or switch gear, and it acts as an extra layer of insulator material against the paper surface of the plaster board. It's easier to drill neat holes in the timber panel after cutting a large hole in the plaster board to bring the cables through. The timber panel should also give space to fix clips on the cabling so they are more difficult to pull out of the housings for the equipment. The timber panel allows you drill individual holes for each cable, if you wish, so they are neatly spaced and clipped along the length of the equipment housings. I'm not sure part B of the building regs would agree with your ideas about using timber and making large holes in the fire resistant plasterboard. Your ideas seem more appropriate for the fifties and early sixtiesg |
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Cant quite visualise the situation and dont know how many cables but would
Trunking rather than conduit look better with the cables entering through the back of the trunking. wrote in message oups.com... This is probably a dumb question but I haven't found a satisfactory solution... I have some surface mounted equipment (e.g. heating controller, security controller) into which I must terminate some low voltage (50V) cables (e.g. RS485, PIR sensor connections). The equipment enclosures have knockouts on the underside through which the cables enter. The cables are run within dry lining. What is a neat way to bring the cable out through the plasterboard and up into the equipment? I could simply drill holes in the plasterboard and thread the cable through but this wouldn't look nice. I could have some 20mm conduit coming out of the wall and up into the knockouts which might look a bit better. A surface-mounted junction box (about 250mm width x 90mm height) with rear-entry knockouts occurred to me, but I can't find a decent source. Does anyone have some neat ideas? |
#7
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In article .com,
wrote: A surface-mounted junction box (about 250mm width x 90mm height) with rear-entry knockouts occurred to me, but I can't find a decent source. Since it's low voltage low current so fire containment isn't an issue, look at through the ranges of enclosures that Maplin etc do for one that looks ok and make your own suitable holes in it. -- *I'm out of my mind, but feel free to leave a message. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
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In article .com,
wrote: The cables are run within dry lining. What is a neat way to bring the cable out through the plasterboard Standard cable grommet as used by Teleworst etc. 10mm drill size and will accept up to 8mm through cable. Black, white or clear 50p each. -- AJL Electronics (G6FGO) Ltd : Satellite and TV aerial systems http://www.classicmicrocars.co.uk : http://www.ajlelectronics.co.uk |
#10
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"John" wrote in message ... "BigWallop" wrote in message ... wrote in message oups.com... This is probably a dumb question but I haven't found a satisfactory solution... I have some surface mounted equipment (e.g. heating controller, security controller) into which I must terminate some low voltage (50V) cables (e.g. RS485, PIR sensor connections). The equipment enclosures have knockouts on the underside through which the cables enter. The cables are run within dry lining. What is a neat way to bring the cable out through the plasterboard and up into the equipment? I could simply drill holes in the plasterboard and thread the cable through but this wouldn't look nice. I could have some 20mm conduit coming out of the wall and up into the knockouts which might look a bit better. A surface-mounted junction box (about 250mm width x 90mm height) with rear-entry knockouts occurred to me, but I can't find a decent source. Does anyone have some neat ideas? Your wall mounted equipment should be fitted to a timber panel which is in turn fixed to the surface of the plaster board wall. This is especially so if the equipment houses mains voltage transformers or switch gear, and it acts as an extra layer of insulator material against the paper surface of the plaster board. It's easier to drill neat holes in the timber panel after cutting a large hole in the plaster board to bring the cables through. The timber panel should also give space to fix clips on the cabling so they are more difficult to pull out of the housings for the equipment. The timber panel allows you drill individual holes for each cable, if you wish, so they are neatly spaced and clipped along the length of the equipment housings. I'm not sure part B of the building regs would agree with your ideas about using timber and making large holes in the fire resistant plasterboard. Your ideas seem more appropriate for the fifties and early sixtiesg Who said anything about huge big holes in the plaster board? I only said larger holes in the plaster board to allow for cable grouping to individual holes in the timber panel, which makes the job look very neat and tidy. And, by the way, any electrical equipment that houses mains voltage must be secured to a flat well secured timber platform, in the fifties, sixties right up to the present day. So can you tell me where in the OP that it says anything about the housings "not having" mains voltage present in them? |
#11
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"BigWallop" wrote in message . uk... SNIP It's easier to drill neat holes in the timber panel after cutting a large hole in the plaster board to bring the cables through. The timber panel should also give space to fix clips on the cabling so they are more difficult to pull out of the housings for the equipment. The timber panel allows you drill individual holes for each cable, if you wish, so they are neatly spaced and clipped along the length of the equipment housings. I'm not sure part B of the building regs would agree with your ideas about using timber and making large holes in the fire resistant plasterboard. Your ideas seem more appropriate for the fifties and early sixtiesg Who said anything about huge big holes in the plaster board? I only said larger holes in the plaster board to allow for cable grouping to individual holes in the timber panel, which makes the job look very neat and tidy. See above - you wrote "after cutting a large hole in the plaster board to bring the cables through" And, by the way, any electrical equipment that houses mains voltage must be secured to a flat well secured timber platform, in the fifties, sixties right up to the present day. Yeah sure it does - thats why all the newer (quite some years now) consumer units are mounted direct to plaster/brick/etc, and flush switches and sockets or plastic surface mount boxes have wooden pattresses (not) So can you tell me where in the OP that it says anything about the housings "not having" mains voltage present in them? Conversely can you say where it does since the text IIRC inferred ELV controls? |
#12
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"John" wrote in message ... "BigWallop" wrote in message . uk... SNIP It's easier to drill neat holes in the timber panel after cutting a large hole in the plaster board to bring the cables through. The timber panel should also give space to fix clips on the cabling so they are more difficult to pull out of the housings for the equipment. The timber panel allows you drill individual holes for each cable, if you wish, so they are neatly spaced and clipped along the length of the equipment housings. I'm not sure part B of the building regs would agree with your ideas about using timber and making large holes in the fire resistant plasterboard. Your ideas seem more appropriate for the fifties and early sixtiesg Who said anything about huge big holes in the plaster board? I only said larger holes in the plaster board to allow for cable grouping to individual holes in the timber panel, which makes the job look very neat and tidy. See above - you wrote "after cutting a large hole in the plaster board to bring the cables through" Yes. A large hole in the plaster board, not a great big gaping huge hole. A little common sense wouldn't go amiss, please. And, by the way, any electrical equipment that houses mains voltage must be secured to a flat well secured timber platform, in the fifties, sixties right up to the present day. Yeah sure it does - thats why all the newer (quite some years now) consumer units are mounted direct to plaster/brick/etc, and flush switches and sockets or plastic surface mount boxes have wooden pattresses (not) Your service head end and consumer unit are directly on the plaster, whatever, surface? (not) So can you tell me where in the OP that it says anything about the housings "not having" mains voltage present in them? Conversely can you say where it does since the text IIRC inferred ELV controls? To err on the side of caution and safety is my motto, and where someone tells me they are using ELV, then I automatically know that transformers or switch modes will come in to the equation somewhere along the line. To operate these types of appliance you almost always need a mains voltage supply somewhere close at hand. |
#13
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