Hi,

I have just had a flat refurbished, to include a new C/H system with a
Worcester Junior 24i combi boiler, (not greenstar), and a shower cubicle
with a thermostatic shower and sliding doors.

There are 2 problems and I am not sure whether I am being fobbed off by
the plumber/builder. I'll either fix them myself if simple enough, or I
will be armed to argue the toss.

1) Having tested the shower, I found that I could not get the water
temperature to remain stable and hot enough. The plumber said that this
was because the water was reaching a high temperature set by the boiler
thermostat, the boiler cuts off, and waits too long before igniting
again. He suggested turning down the thermostat on the boiler to prevent
the water getting so hot and, either not cutting out, or reducing the
time it waits before igniting again.

This doesnt make sense to me as I thought the boiler thermostat
controlled the temperature to the rads only, and not the hot water, so
altering the setting should make no difference.

I understood that hot water was supplied at a temperature dictated by
the flow, and the shower thermostat should control the output at the
shower head.

Following from this - the shower thermostat has a "safety" button which
can be pressed to allow the temperature to be increased. I am presuming
that this "safe" temperature can be altered by adjusting something in
the temperature adjuster. Is this the case, and is it generally
straightforward.

2) The shower cubicle has a fixed glass panel with another glass panel
which slides behind it. Along the vertical end of each panel is a
plastic trim with a protrusion which is obviously designed to prevent
water getting between the gap. The sliding door does not close far
enough for the two protrusions to meet, (which I am guessing would stop
any water getting through), nor do they protrude far enough to meet the
opposing glass, thus providing a seal.

Whilst I am sure it will be rare, there are some angles at which water
can find its' way through the gap to run onto the bathroom floor.
Knowing my luck, I will have a tenant who finds these angles and floods
the bathroom and the flat below.

Any ideas on either, or both, of the above?

Many Thanks


--
Richard Faulkner

In message , Richard Faulkner
writes
Hi,

I have just had a flat refurbished, to include a new C/H system with a
Worcester Junior 24i combi boiler, (not greenstar), and a shower
cubicle with a thermostatic shower and sliding doors.

There are 2 problems and I am not sure whether I am being fobbed off by
the plumber/builder. I'll either fix them myself if simple enough, or I
will be armed to argue the toss.

1) Having tested the shower, I found that I could not get the water
temperature to remain stable and hot enough. The plumber said that this
was because the water was reaching a high temperature set by the boiler
thermostat, the boiler cuts off, and waits too long before igniting
again. He suggested turning down the thermostat on the boiler to
prevent the water getting so hot and, either not cutting out, or
reducing the time it waits before igniting again.

Utter ********

Your understanding below is correct.

The 24i Junior has a modulating gas valve which maintains a constant
water temperature for different flow rates


This doesnt make sense to me as I thought the boiler thermostat
controlled the temperature to the rads only, and not the hot water, so
altering the setting should make no difference.

I understood that hot water was supplied at a temperature dictated by
the flow, and the shower thermostat should control the output at the
shower head.


--
geoff

Richard Faulkner wrote:

There are 2 problems and I am not sure whether I am being fobbed off by
the plumber/builder. I'll either fix them myself if simple enough, or I
will be armed to argue the toss.

1) Having tested the shower, I found that I could not get the water
temperature to remain stable and hot enough. The plumber said that this
was because the water was reaching a high temperature set by the boiler
thermostat, the boiler cuts off, and waits too long before igniting
again. He suggested turning down the thermostat on the boiler to prevent
the water getting so hot and, either not cutting out, or reducing the
time it waits before igniting again.

This doesnt make sense to me as I thought the boiler thermostat
controlled the temperature to the rads only, and not the hot water, so
altering the setting should make no difference.

Not all combi boilers are the same in this respect. I don't have any
experience with your boiler and so can't comment specifically on it.
However there are some points you ought to be aware of.

Most combi boilers will have a maximum temperature thermostat for their
hot water generation. On ones like mine (Ideal Isar) it is a variable
control independent of the CH water temperature. On others it may be a
fixed limit. It is unlikely to be much over 65 degrees in any case. This
dictates the maximum temperature. At low flows the water temp should not
exceed this. As you raise the flow eventually you reach the point at
which the boiler is unable to maintain the temperature and it starts to
fall (save for the few boilers that have a flow regulator). The minimum
temperature will be a function of incoming cold water temperature and
flow rate.

If you demand hot water at a rate low enough then the combi will not be
able to modulate the gas rate low enough to keep the water temp under
the limit set by the stat. In this case it will have to turn off the
burner. Note that with a modern modulating boiler (especially a low
output one like yours) this would probably equate to a pretty low flow
rate. What happens next depends a bit on the boiler design. Ones that
have a internal store of pre tempered water (for "instant" hot water)
will often be able to cycle the burner while maintaining a reasonably
constant output temperature by re-tempering the store for time to time.
However ones without this will give alternate bursts of hot and cold water.

One test to try to see if this is the problem is to use more flow on the
shower. If you are already using all that you can get, then see what
happens if you also run the hot tap on the basin at the same time. This
will increase the demand for hot water and keep the boiler firing
continuously. If this does turn out to be a solution to the problem then
changing the shower head to a more "thirsty" one may fix it.

Are you sure the shower has a thermostatic control. Also is it one where
you can select temperature and flow rate independently? If it is/does
then be aware that you can also get strange interactions between a combi
boiler and a shower of this type. Often they work just fine together,
however you can get problems if the boiler is supplying water close to
its maximum rate. The shower may try to correct a dip in temperature by
increasing the hot flow. However this may result in the hot water
getting colder (i.e. boiler can't heat the higher flow to the same
temperature as before). This can create feedback cycle that gives
results like you are seeing. It can also happen in this way if your cold
main is not up to the task. The shower may try to compensate for a hot
output by increasing cold flow, which can starve the boiler of water
hence reducing its flow and thus raising its (and hence the showers)
output temperature still further.

(to an extent you can see similar problems with manual showers, except
you have to learn how to "tune out" in interactions in temperature and
flow rate. Needless to say if anyone / thing else demands hot water
elsewhere in the house at the same time, all bets are off! ;-)

I understood that hot water was supplied at a temperature dictated by
the flow, and the shower thermostat should control the output at the
shower head.

Ideally it ought. It works well on mine, however the neighbours (with an
ageing less sophisticated combi) gave up trying to use the shower years
ago due to similar problems you describe).

Following from this - the shower thermostat has a "safety" button which
can be pressed to allow the temperature to be increased. I am presuming
that this "safe" temperature can be altered by adjusting something in
the temperature adjuster. Is this the case, and is it generally
straightforward.

On some you can. The bar mixer I fitted to my new shower room came with
instructions on doing this. Yours may have similar. If not immediately
obvious see if there is anything on the makers web site.



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

"Richard Faulkner" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I have just had a flat refurbished, to include a new C/H system with a
Worcester Junior 24i combi boiler, (not greenstar), and a shower cubicle
with a thermostatic shower and sliding doors.

There are 2 problems and I am not sure whether I am being fobbed off by
the plumber/builder. I'll either fix them myself if simple enough, or I
will be armed to argue the toss.

1) Having tested the shower, I found that I could not get the water
temperature to remain stable and hot enough. The plumber said that this
was because the water was reaching a high temperature set by the boiler
thermostat, the boiler cuts off, and waits too long before igniting again.
He suggested turning down the thermostat on the boiler to prevent the
water getting so hot and, either not cutting out, or reducing the time it
waits before igniting again.

This doesnt make sense to me as I thought the boiler thermostat controlled
the temperature to the rads only, and not the hot water, so altering the
setting should make no difference.

I understood that hot water was supplied at a temperature dictated by the
flow, and the shower thermostat should control the output at the shower
head.

Following from this - the shower thermostat has a "safety" button which
can be pressed to allow the temperature to be increased. I am presuming
that this "safe" temperature can be altered by adjusting something in the
temperature adjuster. Is this the case, and is it generally
straightforward.

2) The shower cubicle has a fixed glass panel with another glass panel
which slides behind it. Along the vertical end of each panel is a plastic
trim with a protrusion which is obviously designed to prevent water
getting between the gap. The sliding door does not close far enough for
the two protrusions to meet, (which I am guessing would stop any water
getting through), nor do they protrude far enough to meet the opposing
glass, thus providing a seal.

Whilst I am sure it will be rare, there are some angles at which water can
find its' way through the gap to run onto the bathroom floor. Knowing my
luck, I will have a tenant who finds these angles and floods the bathroom
and the flat below.

Any ideas on either, or both, of the above?

Many Thanks


--
Richard Faulkner

Just a couple of thoughts:
Builders (well the one's I come across) are notorious for not reading
instructions!
Did yours fit a flow restrictor on the cold inlet to the shower mixer? with
a combi-boiler there should be one or the shower runs too cool.
Also, was the boiler checked? It's just possible that the output of hot
water needs 'stabilising' - it shouldn't!, but worth checking by a gas
fitter in case the gas valve needs adjustment, or there's some other problem
causing a low flow rate/heat output.
Did you invest in a cheap mixer? It's a false economy to try to save money
on things like this - in various rented properties, I've had a Mira mixer
last for around 15 years, but three of the Wicke's (although now taken over
by Mira) have all needed servicing!

My own shower has been running cool for the past few months, but I think
it's the diverter valve in the Worcester boiler (it's around 8 years old) -
must get around to changing it.

Hugh

In article ,
Richard Faulkner wrote:
The plumber said that this
was because the water was reaching a high temperature set by the boiler
thermostat, the boiler cuts off, and waits too long before igniting
again. He suggested turning down the thermostat on the boiler to prevent
the water getting so hot and, either not cutting out, or reducing the
time it waits before igniting again.

Even on the most basic water heater, this would only happen if the cold
flow through it was inadequate, and with a boiler called a 'junior' this
is rather unlikely.

It will have a spec for how much water it can heat in litres per minute.
With a starting temperature for the cold and a maximum temp for the hot.
This is an easy DIY job to check. A simple thermometer, bucket and watch.

This doesnt make sense to me as I thought the boiler thermostat
controlled the temperature to the rads only, and not the hot water, so
altering the setting should make no difference.

The boiler user instructions should tell all about this?

--
*Being healthy is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Richard Faulkner" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I have just had a flat refurbished, to include a new C/H system with a
Worcester Junior 24i combi boiler, (not greenstar), and a shower cubicle
with a thermostatic shower and sliding doors.

There are 2 problems and I am not sure whether I am being fobbed off by
the plumber/builder. I'll either fix them myself if simple enough, or I
will be armed to argue the toss.

1) Having tested the shower, I found that I could not get the water
temperature to remain stable and hot enough. The plumber said that this
was because the water was reaching a high temperature set by the boiler
thermostat, the boiler cuts off, and waits too long before igniting again.
He suggested turning down the thermostat on the boiler to prevent the
water getting so hot and, either not cutting out, or reducing the time it
waits before igniting again.

This is just possible if the shower flow rate is below the boilers minimum
modulation point. An easy check is to run a hot tap slowly at the same time
as the shower is running. If the increased throughput of hot water keeps the
boiler alight and the temperature stable you know where to start to sort the
problem. It is possible that the plumber didn't flush the pipes before
connecting the shower and an inlet filter is clogged with crud/flux/debris
so causing a flow restriction.

This doesnt make sense to me as I thought the boiler thermostat controlled
the temperature to the rads only, and not the hot water, so altering the
setting should make no difference.

Depends on the boiler some have a tapwater thermostat as well


I understood that hot water was supplied at a temperature dictated by the
flow, and the shower thermostat should control the output at the shower
head.

Within the limits of physics (in this reality)

Following from this - the shower thermostat has a "safety" button which
can be pressed to allow the temperature to be increased. I am presuming
that this "safe" temperature can be altered by adjusting something in the
temperature adjuster. Is this the case, and is it generally
straightforward.

2) The shower cubicle has a fixed glass panel with another glass panel
which slides behind it. Along the vertical end of each panel is a plastic
trim with a protrusion which is obviously designed to prevent water
getting between the gap. The sliding door does not close far enough for
the two protrusions to meet, (which I am guessing would stop any water
getting through), nor do they protrude far enough to meet the opposing
glass, thus providing a seal.

Whilst I am sure it will be rare, there are some angles at which water can
find its' way through the gap to run onto the bathroom floor. Knowing my
luck, I will have a tenant who finds these angles and floods the bathroom
and the flat below.

******s are ******s and you can only try to get a tenant with at least half
a functioning brain cell

Any ideas on either, or both, of the above?

Many Thanks

In message , John
writes

"Richard Faulkner" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I have just had a flat refurbished, to include a new C/H system with a
Worcester Junior 24i combi boiler, (not greenstar), and a shower cubicle
with a thermostatic shower and sliding doors.

There are 2 problems and I am not sure whether I am being fobbed off by
the plumber/builder. I'll either fix them myself if simple enough, or I
will be armed to argue the toss.

1) Having tested the shower, I found that I could not get the water
temperature to remain stable and hot enough. The plumber said that this
was because the water was reaching a high temperature set by the boiler
thermostat, the boiler cuts off, and waits too long before igniting again.
He suggested turning down the thermostat on the boiler to prevent the
water getting so hot and, either not cutting out, or reducing the time it
waits before igniting again.

This is just possible if the shower flow rate is below the boilers minimum
modulation point. An easy check is to run a hot tap slowly at the same time
as the shower is running. If the increased throughput of hot water keeps the
boiler alight and the temperature stable you know where to start to sort the
problem. It is possible that the plumber didn't flush the pipes before
connecting the shower and an inlet filter is clogged with crud/flux/debris
so causing a flow restriction.

This doesnt make sense to me as I thought the boiler thermostat controlled
the temperature to the rads only, and not the hot water, so altering the
setting should make no difference.

Depends on the boiler some have a tapwater thermostat as well


I understood that hot water was supplied at a temperature dictated by the
flow, and the shower thermostat should control the output at the shower
head.

Within the limits of physics (in this reality)

Following from this - the shower thermostat has a "safety" button which
can be pressed to allow the temperature to be increased. I am presuming
that this "safe" temperature can be altered by adjusting something in the
temperature adjuster. Is this the case, and is it generally
straightforward.

2) The shower cubicle has a fixed glass panel with another glass panel
which slides behind it. Along the vertical end of each panel is a plastic
trim with a protrusion which is obviously designed to prevent water
getting between the gap. The sliding door does not close far enough for
the two protrusions to meet, (which I am guessing would stop any water
getting through), nor do they protrude far enough to meet the opposing
glass, thus providing a seal.

Whilst I am sure it will be rare, there are some angles at which water can
find its' way through the gap to run onto the bathroom floor. Knowing my
luck, I will have a tenant who finds these angles and floods the bathroom
and the flat below.

******s are ******s and you can only try to get a tenant with at least half
a functioning brain cell


Then I am that ******! g It happened whilst I was testing it, which is
how I found the problem. Obviously, now I know it can happen, I can
avoid it - but even the best tenants wont care about the property like I
do.

Thanks for the advice on the boiler and shower - and thanks to everyone
else who has responded - I'll have a think about it and try a few
things, before getting the builder in.


--
Richard Faulkner

"Richard Faulkner" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I have just had a flat refurbished, to include a new C/H system with a
Worcester Junior 24i combi boiler, (not greenstar), and a shower cubicle
with a thermostatic shower and sliding doors.

There are 2 problems and I am not sure whether I am being fobbed off by
the plumber/builder. I'll either fix them myself if simple enough, or I
will be armed to argue the toss.

1) Having tested the shower, I found that I could not get the water
temperature to remain stable and hot enough. The plumber said that this
was because the water was reaching a high temperature set by the boiler
thermostat, the boiler cuts off, and waits too long before igniting
again. He suggested turning down the thermostat on the boiler to prevent
the water getting so hot and, either not cutting out, or reducing the
time it waits before igniting again.

This doesnt make sense to me as I thought the boiler thermostat
controlled the temperature to the rads only, and not the hot water, so
altering the setting should make no difference.

I understood that hot water was supplied at a temperature dictated by
the flow, and the shower thermostat should control the output at the
shower head.

Following from this - the shower thermostat has a "safety" button which
can be pressed to allow the temperature to be increased. I am presuming
that this "safe" temperature can be altered by adjusting something in
the temperature adjuster. Is this the case, and is it generally
straightforward.

Viz your last point, why bother fiddling around with the 'safety' button set
point? It is set to blood heat I believe, which doesn't give a very
invigorating
shower, so I just depress it and override it to get the temperature up
around
43 degrees. I set my combi so it doesn't produce hot water at more than
about
53 degrees ( as hot as you can hold your hand in ), so that I can't get
scalded
by the hot tap. This requires a quarterly adjustment of the combi DHW
temperature
control, but that's not so onerous. I have annotated the control knob with
the
seasons so I know just where to set it for the correct temperature. If you
set the
DHW temperature hotter than about 50 degrees, the flow rate will decrease
anyway, since combi flowrates are quoted for a delta T of 35 Celsius.

Andy.

"andrewpreece" wrote in message
...

Viz your last point, why bother fiddling around with the 'safety' button
set
point? It is set to blood heat I believe, which doesn't give a very
invigorating
shower, so I just depress it and override it to get the temperature up
around
43 degrees.

The several showers I've installed all let you set the safety point up
yourself as you assembled the control lever. I've always set them to 'bloody
hot' but not scalding.

Is yours just badly set up? Change it...

1) Having tested the shower, I found that I could not get the water
temperature to remain stable and hot enough. The plumber said that this
was because the water was reaching a high temperature set by the boiler
thermostat, the boiler cuts off, and waits too long before igniting
again.

Is the shower valve suitable for a combi boiler?

Combi boilers have an issue in that once you draw more than a trickle, the
output temperature at the tap varies with the flow rate, responding several
tens of seconds after the flow rate change.

In order for a thermostatic valve to work with this, it should basically
attempt to draw a constant supply of hot water and just vary the cold. This
means that its hot supply stays at an approximately constant temperature,
making it possible to get a stable temp.

If your mixer is not designed for combis, it might vary the hot supply to
maintain temp, which has the effect of changing the combi output temp,
causing massive instability in temperature regulation.

BTW, a 24kW combi is not very powerful. If you have a fairly freeflowing
shower head, the temperature will drop whatever you do, as you are using
more water than can be heated. You may need to change the head for one with
smaller holes, so it doesn't overload the combi.

Alternatively, if you have a head with too small holes (such as one designed
for an electric shower), you might draw less water (and hence heat) than the
boiler is capable of providing without shutting down. Then a larger head is
required to give the combi something to chew on.

Christian.

In message , Christian
McArdle writes
Is the shower valve suitable for a combi boiler?

Combi boilers have an issue in that once you draw more than a trickle,
the output temperature at the tap varies with the flow rate, responding
several tens of seconds after the flow rate change.

It seems to be - I've swapped it with one from another flat and it works
ok in the other flat, but the new one has the same problem in the
problem flat - if that makes sense g

So it seems to be some kind of problem at the boiler end.

I'm going to try and have a shower in it in the morning, and see how it
goes.

It works OK for Central heating, and for heating water to the kitchen
and bathroom sinks - but constant heat doesnt matter so much in these.

--
Richard Faulkner

In article ,
Richard Faulkner wrote:
It works OK for Central heating, and for heating water to the kitchen
and bathroom sinks - but constant heat doesnt matter so much in these.

Is the hot water flow ok from other taps in the bathroom? If so, this
indicates a problem with the shower. Even, possibly, the hot and cold
feeds swapped if a thermostatic type.

--
*If you try to fail, and succeed, which have you done?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 01:12:51 +0100, Richard Faulkner wrote:

In message , Christian
McArdle writes
Is the shower valve suitable for a combi boiler?

Combi boilers have an issue in that once you draw more than a trickle,
the output temperature at the tap varies with the flow rate, responding
several tens of seconds after the flow rate change.

It seems to be - I've swapped it with one from another flat and it works
ok in the other flat, but the new one has the same problem in the
problem flat - if that makes sense g

So it seems to be some kind of problem at the boiler end.

I'm going to try and have a shower in it in the morning, and see how it
goes.

It works OK for Central heating, and for heating water to the kitchen
and bathroom sinks - but constant heat doesnt matter so much in these.

Is this flat higher than the others and has less water pressure/flow?



--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html

John Rumm wrote:
Richard Faulkner wrote:

There are 2 problems and I am not sure whether I am being fobbed off
by the plumber/builder. I'll either fix them myself if simple enough,
or I will be armed to argue the toss.

1) Having tested the shower, I found that I could not get the water
temperature to remain stable and hot enough. The plumber said that
this was because the water was reaching a high temperature set by the
boiler thermostat, the boiler cuts off, and waits too long before
igniting again. He suggested turning down the thermostat on the boiler
to prevent the water getting so hot and, either not cutting out, or
reducing the time it waits before igniting again.

This doesnt make sense to me as I thought the boiler thermostat
controlled the temperature to the rads only, and not the hot water, so
altering the setting should make no difference.

[SNIP]...

If you demand hot water at a rate low enough then the combi will not be
able to modulate the gas rate low enough to keep the water temp under
the limit set by the stat. In this case it will have to turn off the
burner. Note that with a modern modulating boiler (especially a low
output one like yours) this would probably equate to a pretty low flow
rate. What happens next depends a bit on the boiler design. Ones that
have a internal store of pre tempered water (for "instant" hot water)
will often be able to cycle the burner while maintaining a reasonably
constant output temperature by re-tempering the store for time to time.
However ones without this will give alternate bursts of hot and cold water.

One test to try to see if this is the problem is to use more flow on the
shower. If you are already using all that you can get, then see what
happens if you also run the hot tap on the basin at the same time. This
will increase the demand for hot water and keep the boiler firing
continuously. If this does turn out to be a solution to the problem then
changing the shower head to a more "thirsty" one may fix it.
A similar problem I had in a property was fixed like this.
What actually happened was I phoned the thermo-shower makers/importers.
When I told 'em I was using it on a combi they told me how to increase
the shower valve's hot flow by adjustment of a large slot on the back of
the valve body. Of course we already had the flow restrictor in the
mains fed cold side.

In message .uk, Ed
Sirett writes
On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 01:12:51 +0100, Richard Faulkner wrote:

In message , Christian
McArdle writes
Is the shower valve suitable for a combi boiler?

Combi boilers have an issue in that once you draw more than a trickle,
the output temperature at the tap varies with the flow rate, responding
several tens of seconds after the flow rate change.

It seems to be - I've swapped it with one from another flat and it works
ok in the other flat, but the new one has the same problem in the
problem flat - if that makes sense g

So it seems to be some kind of problem at the boiler end.

I'm going to try and have a shower in it in the morning, and see how it
goes.

It works OK for Central heating, and for heating water to the kitchen
and bathroom sinks - but constant heat doesnt matter so much in these.

Is this flat higher than the others and has less water pressure/flow?

It's Flat 5 at the top of the building, but Flat 4 is also at the top of
the building, and the shower in there works fine (Flat 4 is fed from a
Worcester 24i Combi - not a Greenstar or a Junior), and now has the
original thermostat from Flat 5. I'm pretty sure that the water flow is
high enough - the cold water is powerful enough to have to turn it down
to stop it splashing out of a reasonably deep kitchen sink.

I think the plumber is going to test the water pressure drop, or
something tomorrow morning - I'll see if we can check that the hot and
cold arent swapped, and if we can increase the hot water flow in the
thermostat.

Thanks again!!

--
Richard Faulkner

On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 23:51:48 +0100, Richard Faulkner wrote:



I think the plumber is going to test the water pressure drop, or
something tomorrow morning - I'll see if we can check that the hot and
cold arent swapped, and if we can increase the hot water flow in the
thermostat.

I've met the swapped pipework problem. You either get stone cold or
full hot and nothing in between.

--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html

In message .uk, Ed
Sirett writes
On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 23:51:48 +0100, Richard Faulkner wrote:



I think the plumber is going to test the water pressure drop, or
something tomorrow morning - I'll see if we can check that the hot and
cold arent swapped, and if we can increase the hot water flow in the
thermostat.

I've met the swapped pipework problem. You either get stone cold or
full hot and nothing in between.


Checked tonight and it's not swapped pipework - the correct side of the
shower thing gets hot when it's running.

--
Richard Faulkner

"Ed Sirett" wrote in message
news
On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 23:51:48 +0100, Richard Faulkner wrote:



I think the plumber is going to test the water pressure drop, or
something tomorrow morning - I'll see if we can check that the hot and
cold arent swapped, and if we can increase the hot water flow in the
thermostat.

I've met the swapped pipework problem. You either get stone cold or
full hot and nothing in between.

Interesting - I'm in a rented house for now and the shower is a thermo valve
on a combi (the one that keeps heating till the safety cutout pops and kills
the gas.. getting fixed this week!).

The shower has always been full on to get it hot, then back it off 1/4" and
it's pretty much cold. Not much room for comfortable adjustment. I assumed
it was a knackered themostatic valve but I suppose it could have *always*
been like that. Not easy to change now though.

Although since it's a round valve with pipes to each side I suppose I could
just turn it over? hmm....

In message .uk, Ed
Sirett writes
On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 23:51:48 +0100, Richard Faulkner wrote:



I think the plumber is going to test the water pressure drop, or
something tomorrow morning - I'll see if we can check that the hot and
cold arent swapped, and if we can increase the hot water flow in the
thermostat.

I've met the swapped pipework problem. You either get stone cold or
full hot and nothing in between.


Plumbers been and seems to think it is overheating because:

Water gets to temperature in shower and thermostat calls for less hot
water.

Boiler continues to heat less water at same rate/power, thus
overheating.

He puts it down to either a gas valve operating too slowly, or an
electrical sensor not operating quickly enough.

He's going to get Worcester Bosch out under warranty - so we'll see what
happens.

--
Richard Faulkner