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  #1   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default Fitting a New Immersion Heater

There is a message a few posts down about a plumbing invoice got me
wondering. My house has got gas CH but I would use the immersion heater
in an emergency. The immersion hasn't worked for some time but I ahve
never got around to replacing it.
Bearing in mind the cylinder/heater have been in place for 25 years how
difficult will the heater be to change.

Kevin

  #2   Report Post  
Dave Plowman (News)
 
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Default

In article .com,
wrote:
There is a message a few posts down about a plumbing invoice got me
wondering. My house has got gas CH but I would use the immersion heater
in an emergency. The immersion hasn't worked for some time but I ahve
never got around to replacing it.
Bearing in mind the cylinder/heater have been in place for 25 years how
difficult will the heater be to change.


It's rather down to luck. Sometimes they're well and truly stuck. It's
usual to slacken them with the tank still full of water which holds it
steady. But of course if the cylinder splits, you've got a problem. ;-)

--
*Hard work has a future payoff. Laziness pays off NOW.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
  #3   Report Post  
Bob Mannix
 
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wrote in message
oups.com...
There is a message a few posts down about a plumbing invoice got me
wondering. My house has got gas CH but I would use the immersion heater
in an emergency. The immersion hasn't worked for some time but I ahve
never got around to replacing it.
Bearing in mind the cylinder/heater have been in place for 25 years how
difficult will the heater be to change.


Ah, good and bad. Immersion heater will be well and truly stuck. However, 25
years ago the cylinders were probably thicker and will withstand more in the
way of mistreatment than current ones.

I would soak the threads in easing fluid of some sort (probably won't help
but it might). Next day try an immersion heater spanner on it, with all the
water still in (gives the tank a lot of strength). Tap it, heave on it etc.,
but watch the tank doesn't start to give. If it undoes at all, drain the
system and carry on. If it doesn't, you are in for a new tank as well.


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)


  #4   Report Post  
Christian McArdle
 
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Bearing in mind the cylinder/heater have been in place for 25 years how
difficult will the heater be to change.


There's no need to take the old one out. Just put an additional one in near
the bottom, which just requires a hole saw. This is a much safer alternative
to attempting to release a 25 year old one. Also, check that the old one is
indeed broken. It could be just a broken thermostat, which is easily
replaced.

If you do attempt to remove the old one, loosen it with the tank full.
Rather than putting on lots of torque to the spanner, make short sharp blows
on the end with a hammer. The shocks will be more effective at loosening it,
whilst reducing the tendency for the cylinder to distort or crack. However,
you should note that the chances of failure are quite high and should have
an alternative solution in mind (i.e. cylinder replacement) and the ability
to rapidly drain the cylinder without causing damage to floors and ceilings.

Christian.


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Doctor Evil
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article .com,
wrote:
There is a message a few posts down about a plumbing invoice got me
wondering. My house has got gas CH but I would use the immersion heater
in an emergency. The immersion hasn't worked for some time but I ahve
never got around to replacing it.
Bearing in mind the cylinder/heater have been in place for 25 years how
difficult will the heater be to change.


It's rather down to luck. Sometimes they're well and truly stuck. It's
usual to slacken them with the tank still full of water which holds it
steady. But of course if the cylinder splits, you've got a problem. ;-)


Useless advice. If it doesn't move, then use a blowlamps and heat the
copper around the old immersion. This expands the metal and the brass
immersion slips out.




  #6   Report Post  
John Rumm
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Doctor Evil wrote:

Useless advice. If it doesn't move, then use a blowlamps and heat the
copper around the old immersion. This expands the metal and the brass
immersion slips out.


So why bother posting your useless advice then?


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/
  #7   Report Post  
John Rumm
 
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Christian McArdle wrote:

an alternative solution in mind (i.e. cylinder replacement) and the ability
to rapidly drain the cylinder without causing damage to floors and ceilings.


Good to not try when it is full of 'kin hot water either ;-)

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/
  #8   Report Post  
Dave Plowman (News)
 
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In article .net,
Doctor Evil wrote:
It's rather down to luck. Sometimes they're well and truly stuck. It's
usual to slacken them with the tank still full of water which holds it
steady. But of course if the cylinder splits, you've got a problem. ;-)


Useless advice.


But near enough the same as all the other *practical* people on here have
given? But it's nice to see you've taken my advice and started to deal
with simple things.

If it doesn't move, then use a blowlamps and heat the
copper around the old immersion. This expands the metal and the brass
immersion slips out.


You'd have to expand it a long way before the immersion would 'slip' out.

6/10.

--
*When a clock is hungry it goes back four seconds.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
  #9   Report Post  
news
 
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Default

Christian McArdle wrote:
Bearing in mind the cylinder/heater have been in place for 25 years
how difficult will the heater be to change.


There's no need to take the old one out. Just put an additional one
in near the bottom, which just requires a hole saw. This is a much
safer alternative to attempting to release a 25 year old one. Also,
check that the old one is indeed broken. It could be just a broken
thermostat, which is easily replaced.

If you do attempt to remove the old one, loosen it with the tank full.
Rather than putting on lots of torque to the spanner, make short
sharp blows on the end with a hammer. The shocks will be more
effective at loosening it, whilst reducing the tendency for the
cylinder to distort or crack. However, you should note that the
chances of failure are quite high and should have an alternative
solution in mind (i.e. cylinder replacement) and the ability to
rapidly drain the cylinder without causing damage to floors and
ceilings.

Christian.


FWIW I tried losening a stuck immersion element with a flat spanner
and it buckled the tank. the best tool for the job is a box type spanner
with a bar through it as you can control the rotation and deflection. the
flat type spanner seems to 'torque up' and in my case buckled the tank.

heat *is* beter than penetrating oil and if you slacken the outlet on top of
the tank (after cutting off the cold feed, obv) you only get whatever water
is held in the tube (half a litre) escaping rather than the gallons that escape
if you just crack the element and unscrew it (been there, done that)

I then cut the hot outlet 22mm at centrepoint and added a 22mm copper
pushfit joint to allow me to rotate the hot outlet pipe clear of the top of the
cylinder. I then syphoned out enough water to clear the element hole.

it's hot, I'm tired, but the OP should get the picture ;-)




RT


  #10   Report Post  
Dave Plowman (News)
 
Posts: n/a
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In article ,
news wrote:
FWIW I tried losening a stuck immersion element with a flat spanner
and it buckled the tank. the best tool for the job is a box type spanner
with a bar through it as you can control the rotation and deflection. the
flat type spanner seems to 'torque up' and in my case buckled the tank.


But if you try the impact method, you need a spanner that is in line with
the 'nut'.

heat *is* beter than penetrating oil and if you slacken the outlet on
top of the tank (after cutting off the cold feed, obv) you only get
whatever water is held in the tube (half a litre) escaping rather than
the gallons that escape if you just crack the element and unscrew it
(been there, done that)


Well, there shouldn't be much leakage - if any - if you just break the
'seal'. You can tighten it up afterwards if there is, then drain down
enough to remove it.

I then cut the hot outlet 22mm at centrepoint and added a 22mm copper
pushfit joint to allow me to rotate the hot outlet pipe clear of the top
of the cylinder. I then syphoned out enough water to clear the element
hole.


Hopefully there should be a drain cock at the bottom of the cylinder? If
not, and you've got to do some plumbing, fit one.

it's hot, I'm tired, but the OP should get the picture ;-)


There are many different ways to approach this problem and all welcome. ;-)

--
*Time is what keeps everything from happening at once.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


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Dave Plowman (News)
 
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In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
Useless advice. If it doesn't move, then use a blowlamps and heat the
copper around the old immersion. This expands the metal and the brass
immersion slips out.


So why bother posting your useless advice then?


It's nice to see him trying to give advice on simple problems after I told
him to do so.

Of course, he immediately gives the worst case scenario.

--
*The severity of the itch is proportional to the reach *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
  #12   Report Post  
raden
 
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Default

In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes
In article .net,
Doctor Evil wrote:
It's rather down to luck. Sometimes they're well and truly stuck. It's
usual to slacken them with the tank still full of water which holds it
steady. But of course if the cylinder splits, you've got a problem. ;-)


Useless advice.


But near enough the same as all the other *practical* people on here have
given? But it's nice to see you've taken my advice and started to deal
with simple things.

If it doesn't move, then use a blowlamps and heat the
copper around the old immersion. This expands the metal and the brass
immersion slips out.


You'd have to expand it a long way before the immersion would 'slip' out.

You forgot, physics in dIMMworld aren't the same as in the real one


--
geoff
  #13   Report Post  
Doctor Evil
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
news wrote:
FWIW I tried losening a stuck immersion element with a flat spanner
and it buckled the tank. the best tool for the job is a box type spanner
with a bar through it as you can control the rotation and deflection.

the
flat type spanner seems to 'torque up' and in my case buckled the tank.


But if you try the impact method, you need a spanner that is in line with
the 'nut'.


Please, you haven't a clue what you are on about.

  #14   Report Post  
Doctor Evil
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
Useless advice. If it doesn't move, then use a blowlamps and heat the
copper around the old immersion. This expands the metal and the brass
immersion slips out.


So why bother posting your useless advice then?


It's nice to see him trying


More senility.

  #15   Report Post  
Doctor Evil
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes
In article .net,
Doctor Evil wrote:
It's rather down to luck. Sometimes they're well and truly stuck.

It's
usual to slacken them with the tank still full of water which holds

it
steady. But of course if the cylinder splits, you've got a problem.

;-)

Useless advice.


But near enough the same as all the other *practical* people on here have
given? But it's nice to see you've taken my advice and started to deal
with simple things.

If it doesn't move, then use a blowlamps and heat the
copper around the old immersion. This expands the metal and the brass
immersion slips out.


You'd have to expand it a long way before the immersion would 'slip' out.

You forgot, physics


Maxie, it is best you stick to the soldering iron in your enchanted
workshop.



  #16   Report Post  
Doctor Evil
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
Doctor Evil wrote:

Useless advice. If it doesn't move, then use a blowlamps and heat the
copper around the old immersion. This expands the metal and the brass
immersion slips out.


So why bother posting your useless advice then?


Another amateur loony.

  #17   Report Post  
Doctor Evil
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article .net,
Doctor Evil wrote:
It's rather down to luck. Sometimes they're well and truly stuck. It's
usual to slacken them with the tank still full of water which holds it
steady. But of course if the cylinder splits, you've got a problem.

;-)

Useless advice.


But near enough the


Cut babble

If it doesn't move, then use a blowlamps and heat the
copper around the old immersion. This expands the metal and the brass
immersion slips out.


You'd have to expand it a long way before the immersion would 'slip' out.


A senile man who twiddles knobs for a living. Sad but true.

  #18   Report Post  
news
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
news wrote:
FWIW I tried losening a stuck immersion element with a flat spanner
and it buckled the tank. the best tool for the job is a box type
spanner with a bar through it as you can control the rotation and
deflection. the flat type spanner seems to 'torque up' and in my
case buckled the tank.


But if you try the impact method, you need a spanner that is in line
with the 'nut'.


I tried that - it made the problem worse.

heat *is* beter than penetrating oil and if you slacken the outlet on
top of the tank (after cutting off the cold feed, obv) you only get
whatever water is held in the tube (half a litre) escaping rather
than the gallons that escape if you just crack the element and
unscrew it (been there, done that)


Well, there shouldn't be much leakage - if any - if you just break the
'seal'. You can tighten it up afterwards if there is, then drain down
enough to remove it.


I suspect you haven't actually done 'it'

cylinders are gravity fed ... pressure from the bottom forces the water
out of the top, not t'other way round. the element is fitted to the tank
about 8" below the top of the cylinder. remove the element and that
water /has/ to go somewhere.

I then cut the hot outlet 22mm at centrepoint and added a 22mm copper
pushfit joint to allow me to rotate the hot outlet pipe clear of the
top of the cylinder. I then syphoned out enough water to clear the
element hole.


Hopefully there should be a drain cock at the bottom of the cylinder?
If not, and you've got to do some plumbing, fit one.


deffo haven't done it.

it's hot, I'm tired, but the OP should get the picture ;-)


There are many different ways to approach this problem and all
welcome. ;-)


aye, tis true.



RT


  #19   Report Post  
John Rumm
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Doctor Evil wrote:

Another amateur loony.


I know, you claim to be a pro. Although in this case I expect you are.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/
  #20   Report Post  
Matt
 
Posts: n/a
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"Doctor Evil" wrote:


Useless advice. If it doesn't move, then use a blowlamps and heat the
copper around the old immersion. This expands the metal and the brass
immersion slips out.


Your 2 weak teech yerself plumming course forgot to tell you the most
important thing. The coefficient of expansion of Brass is greater
than copper.

Back to that plumbing porn Doctor Evil.

--
Matt

Copper Cylinder Alliance - Educating the world in the benefits of a
space occupying copper cylinder since 1826.



  #21   Report Post  
Doctor Evil
 
Posts: n/a
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"Matt" wrote in message
...
"Doctor Evil" wrote:


Useless advice. If it doesn't move, then use a blowlamps and heat the
copper around the old immersion. This expands the metal and the brass
immersion slips out.


Your 2 weak teech yerself plumming course forgot to tell you the most
important thing. The coefficient of expansion of Brass is greater
than copper.


You don't heat the brass you Pillock.

  #22   Report Post  
Doctor Evil
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"news" wrote in message
...
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
news wrote:
FWIW I tried losening a stuck immersion element with a flat spanner
and it buckled the tank. the best tool for the job is a box type
spanner with a bar through it as you can control the rotation and
deflection. the flat type spanner seems to 'torque up' and in my
case buckled the tank.


But if you try the impact method, you need a spanner that is in line
with the 'nut'.


I tried that - it made the problem worse.


Coming from him, that doesn't surprise me.

cylinders are gravity fed


Some are mains pressure fed.

snip misinformation


  #23   Report Post  
raden
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In message .net,
Doctor Evil writes
If it doesn't move, then use a blowlamps and heat the
copper around the old immersion. This expands the metal and the brass
immersion slips out.

You'd have to expand it a long way before the immersion would 'slip' out.

You forgot, physics


Maxie, it is best you stick to the soldering iron in your enchanted
workshop.

No, what would be best would be if you realised that nobody takes you
seriously, that everyone thinks you are a plonker and if you crawled off
and died somewhere, you would be doing this NG a great service

--
geoff
  #24   Report Post  
Doctor Evil
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
news wrote:
FWIW I tried losening a stuck immersion element with a flat spanner
and it buckled the tank. the best tool for the job is a box type
spanner with a bar through it as you can control the rotation and
deflection. the flat type spanner seems to 'torque up' and in my
case buckled the tank.

But if you try the impact method, you need a spanner that is in line
with the 'nut'.


I tried that - it made the problem worse.


In what way? I find a ring spanner my first choice - whacked with a

hammer.

He is even worse now!


  #25   Report Post  
Doctor Evil
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"raden" wrote in message
...
In message .net,
Doctor Evil writes
If it doesn't move, then use a blowlamps and heat the
copper around the old immersion. This expands the metal and the

brass
immersion slips out.

You'd have to expand it a long way before the immersion would 'slip'

out.

You forgot, physics


Maxie, it is best you stick to the soldering iron in your enchanted
workshop.


No, what would be best would be
if you realised that nobody takes you
seriously,


Maxie, you are having fun again. I people who like to have fun.

that everyone thinks you are
a plonker and if you crawled off
and died somewhere, you would
be doing this NG a great service


Maxie, you need me here. You need me.




  #26   Report Post  
Doctor Evil
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Bob Mannix" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
oups.com...
There is a message a few posts down about a plumbing invoice got me
wondering. My house has got gas CH but I would use the immersion heater
in an emergency. The immersion hasn't worked for some time but I ahve
never got around to replacing it.
Bearing in mind the cylinder/heater have been in place for 25 years how
difficult will the heater be to change.


Ah, good and bad. Immersion heater will be well and truly stuck. However,

25
years ago the cylinders were probably thicker and will withstand more in

the
way of mistreatment than current ones.


Depends on the grade of copper used. 25 years ago there were many paper
thin cylinders around.

I would soak the threads in easing fluid of some sort (probably won't help
but it might). Next day try an immersion heater spanner on it, with all

the
water still in (gives the tank a lot of strength). Tap it, heave on it

etc.,
but watch the tank doesn't start to give. If it undoes at all, drain the
system and carry on. If it doesn't, you are in for a new tank as well.


He is probably better getting a new cylinder anyway. After 25 years or more,
the cylinder may be on its last legs. Best he gets a quick recovery
cylinder, not a normal Part L, ignorant counter salesmen push as quick
recovery, and he will benefit in reduced bills, and faster re-heats. If he
attempts to take out the immersion when full he could be in for a big
expensive and messy shock. A new "quick recovery" cylinder, like an Albion
superduty or Telford Typhoon, will solve many current and near future
problems all in one go.


  #27   Report Post  
Dave Plowman (News)
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article ws.net,
Doctor Evil wrote:
He is probably better getting a new cylinder anyway. After 25 years or
more, the cylinder may be on its last legs. Best he gets a quick
recovery cylinder, not a normal Part L, ignorant counter salesmen push
as quick recovery, and he will benefit in reduced bills, and faster
re-heats. If he attempts to take out the immersion when full he could
be in for a big expensive and messy shock. A new "quick recovery"
cylinder, like an Albion superduty or Telford Typhoon, will solve many
current and near future problems all in one go.


Perhaps you'd quote an approximate cost for this against the DIY 10 quid
or so for a new immersion?

Of course, I forgot there were money trees in planet Drivel.

--
*If a parsley farmer is sued, can they garnish his wages?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
  #28   Report Post  
Doctor Evil
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ws.net,
Doctor Evil wrote:
He is probably better getting a new cylinder anyway. After 25 years or
more, the cylinder may be on its last legs. Best he gets a quick
recovery cylinder, not a normal Part L, ignorant counter salesmen push
as quick recovery, and he will benefit in reduced bills, and faster
re-heats. If he attempts to take out the immersion when full he could
be in for a big expensive and messy shock. A new "quick recovery"
cylinder, like an Albion superduty or Telford Typhoon, will solve many
current and near future problems all in one go.


Perhaps you'd quote an approximate cost for this


No. That is for the OP to take up and run with. I gave the best advice here
and gave some products too, one being very cheap.


  #29   Report Post  
John Rumm
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Doctor Evil wrote:

Maxie, you need me here. You need me.


Like we need belly button fluff....



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/
  #30   Report Post  
Matt
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

In article ws.net,
Doctor Evil wrote:
He is probably better getting a new cylinder anyway. After 25 years or
more, the cylinder may be on its last legs. Best he gets a quick
recovery cylinder, not a normal Part L, ignorant counter salesmen push
as quick recovery, and he will benefit in reduced bills, and faster
re-heats. If he attempts to take out the immersion when full he could
be in for a big expensive and messy shock. A new "quick recovery"
cylinder, like an Albion superduty or Telford Typhoon, will solve many
current and near future problems all in one go.


Perhaps you'd quote an approximate cost for this against the DIY 10 quid
or so for a new immersion?

Of course, I forgot there were money trees in planet Drivel.


And also the cost of building the appropriate blast walls as according
to my local "plumbing merchant counter assistant" these hot water
tanks explode all the time.



--


  #31   Report Post  
Doctor Evil
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
Doctor Evil wrote:

Maxie, you need me here. You need me.


Like we need belly button fluff....


Whatever turns you on.

  #32   Report Post  
Doctor Evil
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Matt" wrote in message
...
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

In article ws.net,
Doctor Evil wrote:
He is probably better getting a new cylinder anyway. After 25 years or
more, the cylinder may be on its last legs. Best he gets a quick
recovery cylinder, not a normal Part L, ignorant counter salesmen push
as quick recovery, and he will benefit in reduced bills, and faster
re-heats. If he attempts to take out the immersion when full he could
be in for a big expensive and messy shock. A new "quick recovery"
cylinder, like an Albion superduty or Telford Typhoon, will solve many
current and near future problems all in one go.


Perhaps you'd quote an approximate cost for this against the DIY 10 quid
or so for a new immersion?

Of course, I forgot there were money trees in planet Drivel.


And also the cost of building the appropriate blast walls as according
to my local "plumbing merchant counter assistant" these hot water
tanks explode all the time.


Which ones is he talking about?


  #33   Report Post  
raden
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In message ws.net,
Doctor Evil writes

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message .net,
Doctor Evil writes
If it doesn't move, then use a blowlamps and heat the
copper around the old immersion. This expands the metal and the

brass
immersion slips out.

You'd have to expand it a long way before the immersion would 'slip'

out.

You forgot, physics

Maxie, it is best you stick to the soldering iron in your enchanted
workshop.


No, what would be best would be
if you realised that nobody takes you
seriously,


Maxie, you are having fun again. I people who like to have fun.

that everyone thinks you are
a plonker and if you crawled off
and died somewhere, you would
be doing this NG a great service


Maxie, you need me here. You need me.

Only for light entertainment

Otherwise, you're just a source of noise

--
geoff
  #34   Report Post  
Matt
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"Doctor Evil" wrote:

"Matt" wrote in message
.. .
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

In article ws.net,
Doctor Evil wrote:
He is probably better getting a new cylinder anyway. After 25 years or
more, the cylinder may be on its last legs. Best he gets a quick
recovery cylinder, not a normal Part L, ignorant counter salesmen push
as quick recovery, and he will benefit in reduced bills, and faster
re-heats. If he attempts to take out the immersion when full he could
be in for a big expensive and messy shock. A new "quick recovery"
cylinder, like an Albion superduty or Telford Typhoon, will solve many
current and near future problems all in one go.

Perhaps you'd quote an approximate cost for this against the DIY 10 quid
or so for a new immersion?

Of course, I forgot there were money trees in planet Drivel.


And also the cost of building the appropriate blast walls as according
to my local "plumbing merchant counter assistant" these hot water
tanks explode all the time.


Which ones is he talking about?


In the words of Marshall Mathers, part time corgi trainer and purveyor
of plastic pipe and copper cylinders to the masses:

"and in the car they found a tape, but they didn't say who it was to
Come to think about, his name was.. it was you
Damn!"


--
  #35   Report Post  
Doctor Evil
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"raden" wrote in message
...
In message ws.net,
Doctor Evil writes

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message .net,
Doctor Evil writes
If it doesn't move, then use a blowlamps and heat the
copper around the old immersion. This expands the metal and the

brass
immersion slips out.

You'd have to expand it a long way before the immersion would

'slip'
out.

You forgot, physics

Maxie, it is best you stick to the soldering iron in your enchanted
workshop.

No, what would be best would be
if you realised that nobody takes you
seriously,


Maxie, you are having fun again. I people who like to have fun.

that everyone thinks you are
a plonker and if you crawled off
and died somewhere, you would
be doing this NG a great service


Maxie, you need me here. You need me.


Only for light entertainment


Maxie, how about dark entertainment?




  #36   Report Post  
raden
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In message ws.net,
Doctor Evil writes
You forgot, physics

Maxie, it is best you stick to the soldering iron in your enchanted
workshop.

No, what would be best would be
if you realised that nobody takes you
seriously,

Maxie, you are having fun again. I people who like to have fun.

that everyone thinks you are
a plonker and if you crawled off
and died somewhere, you would
be doing this NG a great service

Maxie, you need me here. You need me.


Only for light entertainment


Maxie, how about dark entertainment?

I don't think so, you're not evil, just a sad ****


--
geoff
  #37   Report Post  
Doctor Evil
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"raden" wrote in message
...
In message ws.net,
Doctor Evil writes
You forgot, physics

Maxie, it is best you stick to the soldering iron in your enchanted
workshop.

No, what would be best would be
if you realised that nobody takes you
seriously,

Maxie, you are having fun again. I people who like to have fun.

that everyone thinks you are
a plonker and if you crawled off
and died somewhere, you would
be doing this NG a great service

Maxie, you need me here. You need me.

Only for light entertainment


Maxie, how about dark entertainment?

I don't think so, you're not evil, just a sad ****


Maxie!! I do like people who like to have fun....and all that Morris
dancing you do too.

  #38   Report Post  
Junior Member
 
Posts: 1
Default

I fiited a new immersion in a very old cylinder - it buckled slightly around the old immersion as it was removed. Does this matter?? The new one went in ok, and there are no leaks.
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