"mike" wrote in message
...
I want to try and make some simple windows frames to replace the ones
falling to
pieces in the garage windows. When I say frames it's not the actual
frame - just
the window panel itself that opens. Basically it's a frame with a rebate
running
around one edge so I can mount the glass in it. What I'd like to know is,
should
I take the lengths of timber and cut the rebate along the entire lengths
first?
Or should I make up the frames (just rectangles) and cut the rebate
aftwards.
Or, thinking about it, cut the pieces to length and rebate each piece
before
making them in to a frame?
Yes, your right I'm not much of a woodworker :-)


whats a rebate?
take it i'm worse than you then

On Sun, 3 Jul 2005 22:59:42 +0100, "mindwipe"
wrote:


"mike" wrote in message
.. .
I want to try and make some simple windows frames to replace the ones
falling to
pieces in the garage windows. When I say frames it's not the actual
frame - just
the window panel itself that opens. Basically it's a frame with a rebate
running
around one edge so I can mount the glass in it. What I'd like to know is,
should
I take the lengths of timber and cut the rebate along the entire lengths
first?
Or should I make up the frames (just rectangles) and cut the rebate
aftwards.
Or, thinking about it, cut the pieces to length and rebate each piece
before
making them in to a frame?
Yes, your right I'm not much of a woodworker :-)


whats a rebate?
take it i'm worse than you then


An L-shape cut from a piece of material - normally to accept another
piece of material or assembly.

Americans call them rabbets.




--

..andy

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On Sun, 03 Jul 2005 23:05:12 GMT, mike wrote:



USA on Yeah, that guy with the chequered/checkered shirts and a beard calls
'em rabbets. USA off
Also, he has every power tool known to man!


Oh, Norm Abram, you mean. He strikes me as an entertainer, but not
much beyond that. One or two of his projects I found slightly
interesting and I've borrowed the odd idea, but many of them are quite
crass or twee designs, and he spoils others by plastering them with
inapproriate finishes.

He actually doesn't have a spindle moulder (U.S. term is shaper).

On the other hand he does have a $30,000 wide belt sander....


Unfortunately, there really aren't any decent woodworking TV shows
which is rather a pity.






--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://www.diybanter.com

On Sun, 03 Jul 2005 21:39:34 GMT, mike wrote:

should I take the lengths of timber and cut the rebate along the entire lengths first?

Yes.

Go to eBay, buy yourself a #78 rebate plane (Record or Stanley). Don't
spend too much.

Don't try and do it with a router - it's easier by hand. If you're
making big frames you need a spindle moulder, but you can do smallish
and simple frames with hand tools easily enough.

"mike" wrote in message
...
I want to try and make some simple windows frames to replace the ones
falling to
pieces in the garage windows. When I say frames it's not the actual
frame - just
the window panel itself that opens. Basically it's a frame with a rebate
running
around one edge so I can mount the glass in it. What I'd like to know is,
should
I take the lengths of timber and cut the rebate along the entire lengths
first?
Or should I make up the frames (just rectangles) and cut the rebate
aftwards.
Or, thinking about it, cut the pieces to length and rebate each piece
before
making them in to a frame?
Yes, your right I'm not much of a woodworker :-)

Cut the timber to the lengths you need then rebate them before making them
up as a frame. Make sure you choose the straightest and most un-twisted
lengths of timber as well.

Cutting them to length first is easier to work on.

mike wrote:

I want to try and make some simple windows frames to replace the ones falling to
pieces in the garage windows. When I say frames it's not the actual frame - just
the window panel itself that opens. Basically it's a frame with a rebate running
around one edge so I can mount the glass in it. What I'd like to know is, should
I take the lengths of timber and cut the rebate along the entire lengths first?

Could work... How you going to cut the rebates? This method would work
best if you were using something like a hand held circular saw...

Or should I make up the frames (just rectangles) and cut the rebate aftwards.

Nope, it will be more hassle getting nice square corners to your rebates...

Or, thinking about it, cut the pieces to length and rebate each piece before
making them in to a frame?

As good as option 1, and probably the way I would do it (cutting the
rebates with a router in a table).

It will also depend on how you want to make your frame joints. You can
get specialist cutters for the job, but they can be pricy:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...sfile=1&jump=0

or if you don't mind swapping the cutter about half way through the job:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...sfile=1&jump=4


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
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| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

An alternative way of forming a rebate if you have not got the
machinary is to use two pieces of wood and glue them together. For
example, take a length of 60mm x 30mm and glue on to it a length of
20mm x 15mm. The result will be a 60 x 45mm frame section with a 15 x
40mm rebate, which is what you need for a 4-16-4 double glazed unit.

You might think this is 'cheating' but if the glue is good (such as the
white powder urea formaldehyde resin that used to be called Cascamite
but now comes under various names) it forms a very strong piece that
actually has less risk of twisting than a single piece. The joints at
the corners are easier to form if they are made first with the 60 x 30
pieces and then the thinner pieces are added afterwards. You do need
lots and lots of ssmall G or F clamps, but these are much cheaper than
spindle molders and router tables.

If you don't want to do the job again in a few years use oak, or if you
must use softwood made sure it is larch or Douglas fir and then paint
it with real linseed oil paint.

Good luck

wrote:

An alternative way of forming a rebate if you have not got the
machinary is to use two pieces of wood and glue them together. For
example, take a length of 60mm x 30mm and glue on to it a length of
20mm x 15mm. The result will be a 60 x 45mm frame section with a 15 x
40mm rebate, which is what you need for a 4-16-4 double glazed unit.

Yup, that would do it as well.

You might think this is 'cheating' but if the glue is good (such as the
white powder urea formaldehyde resin that used to be called Cascamite
but now comes under various names) it forms a very strong piece that

Like:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...ile=1&jum p=0


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

wrote:
An alternative way of forming a rebate if you have not got the
machinary is to use two pieces of wood and glue them together.


As a last resort I'd say. For exterior stuff those glue joints never
seem to perform that well.
Check with your timber merchant and see if they stock any rebated sections.

Fair point, Stuart, but the way I suggested, the glue line is all
indoors. There are no joints exposed to the weather.