Can anybody recommend what's the best way to secure a stud wall to a
concrete floor where the DPC isn't too far from the surface. I don't want
to pierce the DPC with a hammer in bolt unless there's some way of sealing
it again as the ground is definitely wet underneath.

Many Thanks

Mike wrote:
Can anybody recommend what's the best way to secure a stud wall to a
concrete floor where the DPC isn't too far from the surface. I don't want
to pierce the DPC with a hammer in bolt unless there's some way of sealing
it again as the ground is definitely wet underneath.

Many Thanks

Drill it and use something awterproof. Eg epoxy resin and stainless
screw.

Or if you want a quick corner cutting approach, just use no more nails
all along - I'd drill and fix tho.

NT

Mike wrote:
Can anybody recommend what's the best way to secure a stud wall
to a concrete floor where the DPC isn't too far from the surface.
I don't want to pierce the DPC with a hammer in bolt unless
there's some way of sealing it again as the ground is definitely
wet underneath.

Butter it with poly resin, eg the injectable stuff.

Mike wrote:
Can anybody recommend what's the best way to secure a stud wall to a
concrete floor where the DPC isn't too far from the surface. I don't want
to pierce the DPC with a hammer in bolt unless there's some way of sealing
it again as the ground is definitely wet underneath.

Many Thanks

My friend recently had to do this. He used gripfill. Loads of it. I was
sceptical, but it feels very secure.

"Mike" wrote in message
...
Can anybody recommend what's the best way to secure a stud wall to a
concrete floor where the DPC isn't too far from the surface. I don't want
to pierce the DPC with a hammer in bolt unless there's some way of sealing
it again as the ground is definitely wet underneath.

Many Thanks

You could use small angle brackets on either side on the bottom timber rail.
So use smaller screws to secure it in place.

BigWallop wrote:
"Mike" wrote in message

Can anybody recommend what's the best way to secure a stud wall to a
concrete floor where the DPC isn't too far from the surface. I don't want
to pierce the DPC with a hammer in bolt unless there's some way of sealing
it again as the ground is definitely wet underneath.

You could use small angle brackets on either side on the bottom timber rail.
So use smaller screws to secure it in place.


I suppose in principle going just half an inch deep would be enough in
crete for a soleplate. Once the uprights are in place it would become
secure. You could do that going straight thru the timber.


NT

wrote:
BigWallop wrote:

"Mike" wrote in message


Can anybody recommend what's the best way to secure a stud wall to a
concrete floor where the DPC isn't too far from the surface. I don't want
to pierce the DPC with a hammer in bolt unless there's some way of sealing
it again as the ground is definitely wet underneath.

You could use small angle brackets on either side on the bottom timber rail.
So use smaller screws to secure it in place.

I suppose in principle going just half an inch deep would be enough in
crete for a soleplate. Once the uprights are in place it would become
secure. You could do that going straight thru the timber.

Especially if you ensure that the studs have a good interference (wedge)
fit; i.e. they are very slightly longer than the distance between the
top and bottom timbers, and have to be tapped in to bring them vertical

--
David

"Lobster" wrote in message
...
Can anybody recommend what's the best way to secure a stud wall to a
concrete floor where the DPC isn't too far from the surface. I don't
want
to pierce the DPC with a hammer in bolt unless there's some way of
sealing
it again as the ground is definitely wet underneath.

You could use small angle brackets on either side on the bottom timber
rail.
So use smaller screws to secure it in place.

I suppose in principle going just half an inch deep would be enough in
crete for a soleplate. Once the uprights are in place it would become
secure. You could do that going straight thru the timber.

Especially if you ensure that the studs have a good interference (wedge)
fit; i.e. they are very slightly longer than the distance between the
top and bottom timbers, and have to be tapped in to bring them vertical


Thanks for all the suggestions.
The stud wall is in a barn and won't be reaching the roof so I need a firm
footing (and some 90 deg corners). I think the injectable epoxy sounds the
right route so I'll get some of that today.

On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 09:38:59 +0100, in article
"Mike"
wrote:

Thanks for all the suggestions.
The stud wall is in a barn and won't be reaching the roof so I need a firm
footing (and some 90 deg corners). I think the injectable epoxy sounds the
right route so I'll get some of that today.

Sticking down the bottom timber to the concrete with an epoxy adhesive
seems so obviously the best solution that I wonder at any others being
proferred.

Remember, Araldite became successful because it was used to stick the
wings onto deHavilland Mosquitoes during WWII.

--
Brian {Hamilton Kelly}
"Je n'ai fait celle-ci plus longue que parce que je n'ai pas eu
le loisir de la faire plus courte."
Blaise Pascal, /Lettres Provinciales/, 1657