We will be fitting an electric oven and gas hob into the house we're
renovating. The oven needs a 13A supply and as such can go on the ring main.

My question is, should it be an ordinary 13A plug and socket arrangement
within the housing or maybe a switched fused connection unit above the
worktop (to act as an isolator) with a piece of 2.5mm T&E going down to some
sort of connector unit within the housing?

Cheers,

Mogweed.

Mogweed wrote:
My question is, should it be an ordinary 13A plug and socket arrangement
within the housing or maybe a switched fused connection unit above the
worktop (to act as an isolator) with a piece of 2.5mm T&E going down to some
sort of connector unit within the housing?

The 13A plug and socket arrangement within the housing wouldn't be
compliant, because you need to be able to isolate the appliance without
having to lug it out of the housing first.

My preferred solution is to mount a socket on the wall immediately
behind an adjacent cupboard, and to cut a hole about 3" diameter in the
back of said cupboard to permit access to the socket. You plug the
appliance in there, and can easily stick your mitt through the hole to
switch off the socket / unplug the plug / change the fuse in the plug as
required.

If you really wanted to do the FCU route, you could have still fit this
socket in the same way, but have it controlled by an FCU above the
worktop. Not a lot of point though!

--
David

"Lobster" wrote in message
...
Mogweed wrote:
My question is, should it be an ordinary 13A plug and socket arrangement
within the housing or maybe a switched fused connection unit above the
worktop (to act as an isolator) with a piece of 2.5mm T&E going down to
some
sort of connector unit within the housing?

The 13A plug and socket arrangement within the housing wouldn't be
compliant, because you need to be able to isolate the appliance without
having to lug it out of the housing first.

My preferred solution is to mount a socket on the wall immediately
behind an adjacent cupboard, and to cut a hole about 3" diameter in the
back of said cupboard to permit access to the socket. You plug the
appliance in there, and can easily stick your mitt through the hole to
switch off the socket / unplug the plug / change the fuse in the plug as
required.

But isn't that still non-compliant because you would have to open the
cupboard first ?

"Lobster" wrote in message
...

If you really wanted to do the FCU route, you could have still fit this
socket in the same way, but have it controlled by an FCU above the
worktop. Not a lot of point though!


Slightly OT from the original post but does anybody know if there has been
some edict from on high that all 45A cooker switches have to be red now ?
There used to be white and silver ones which were not too unattractive but
now all I can find are hideous looking ones with the big red nose in the
middle.

Mike wrote:

Slightly OT from the original post but does anybody know if there has been
some edict from on high that all 45A cooker switches have to be red now ?
There used to be white and silver ones which were not too unattractive but
now all I can find are hideous looking ones with the big red nose in the
middle.

There's always been a requirement for the "operating means of a device
for emergency switching" to be "preferably coloured red" - but is is
just that: preferable and not mandatory [Reg. 537-04-04]. Nothing has
changed, AFAIK.

--
Andy

"Andy Wade" wrote in message
...
Mike wrote:

Slightly OT from the original post but does anybody know if there has
been
some edict from on high that all 45A cooker switches have to be red now
?
There used to be white and silver ones which were not too unattractive
but
now all I can find are hideous looking ones with the big red nose in the
middle.

There's always been a requirement for the "operating means of a device
for emergency switching" to be "preferably coloured red" - but is is
just that: preferable and not mandatory [Reg. 537-04-04]. Nothing has
changed, AFAIK.

Thanks. It appears MK have just decided to make it mandatory themselves
then :-(

"Mogweed" wrote in message
...
We will be fitting an electric oven and gas hob into the house we're
renovating. The oven needs a 13A supply and as such can go on the ring
main.

My question is, should it be an ordinary 13A plug and socket arrangement
within the housing or maybe a switched fused connection unit above the
worktop (to act as an isolator) with a piece of 2.5mm T&E going down to
some
sort of connector unit within the housing?

Cheers,

Mogweed.

Although you can plug the oven to the ring circuit, I personally don't like
this arrangement, and have always preferred a separate heavier gauge radial
to the position the stove and separate cooking appliances will be in a
kitchen. This is because it allows for more scope on the appliances if
they're comes a time you want to change them.

What other loads do you already have on the ring circuit which supplies the
kitchen?

"BigWallop" wrote in message
. uk...

"Mogweed" wrote in message
...
We will be fitting an electric oven and gas hob into the house we're
renovating. The oven needs a 13A supply and as such can go on the ring
main.

My question is, should it be an ordinary 13A plug and socket arrangement
within the housing or maybe a switched fused connection unit above the
worktop (to act as an isolator) with a piece of 2.5mm T&E going down to
some
sort of connector unit within the housing?

Cheers,

Mogweed.

Although you can plug the oven to the ring circuit, I personally don't
like
this arrangement, and have always preferred a separate heavier gauge
radial
to the position the stove and separate cooking appliances will be in a
kitchen. This is because it allows for more scope on the appliances if
they're comes a time you want to change them.

What other loads do you already have on the ring circuit which supplies
the
kitchen?



We are installing two ring mains in the kitchen, one RCD protected for
things like kettles, toasters and other general stuff and one unprotected.
The oven would go on the unprotected ring along with the CH boiler and the
fridge/freezer and that would be all that that ring carries - unless anyone
has any other suggestions or comments, that is )

Mogweed.

"Mogweed" wrote in message
...

"BigWallop" wrote in message
. uk...

"Mogweed" wrote in message
...
We will be fitting an electric oven and gas hob into the house we're
renovating. The oven needs a 13A supply and as such can go on the ring
main.

My question is, should it be an ordinary 13A plug and socket
arrangement
within the housing or maybe a switched fused connection unit above the
worktop (to act as an isolator) with a piece of 2.5mm T&E going down to
some
sort of connector unit within the housing?

Cheers,

Mogweed.

Although you can plug the oven to the ring circuit, I personally don't
like
this arrangement, and have always preferred a separate heavier gauge
radial
to the position the stove and separate cooking appliances will be in a
kitchen. This is because it allows for more scope on the appliances if
they're comes a time you want to change them.

What other loads do you already have on the ring circuit which supplies
the
kitchen?



We are installing two ring mains in the kitchen, one RCD protected for
things like kettles, toasters and other general stuff and one unprotected.
The oven would go on the unprotected ring along with the CH boiler and the
fridge/freezer and that would be all that that ring carries - unless
anyone
has any other suggestions or comments, that is )

Mogweed.

That sounds about right, as long as you keep the unprotected ring circuit to
just those appliances. But, personally, I still prefer a cooking appliance
on its own separate heavier gauge radial circuit. I also like these types
of appliance to have good safety protection all along the line. Mixing
heating elements with metal casings always needs good safety protection I
think.

We are installing two ring mains in the kitchen, one RCD protected for
things like kettles, toasters and other general stuff and one unprotected.
The oven would go on the unprotected ring along with the CH boiler and the
fridge/freezer and that would be all that that ring carries - unless
anyone
has any other suggestions or comments, that is )

Where are washing machines/tumble dryers/dishwashers? Do you have a separate
utility room circuit or something?

Christian.

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
t...
We are installing two ring mains in the kitchen, one RCD protected for
things like kettles, toasters and other general stuff and one
unprotected.
The oven would go on the unprotected ring along with the CH boiler and
the
fridge/freezer and that would be all that that ring carries - unless
anyone
has any other suggestions or comments, that is )

Where are washing machines/tumble dryers/dishwashers? Do you have a
separate
utility room circuit or something?

Christian.



No Christian, the house will be rented out when we've finished the
renovations and we decided to let it as unfurnished so the only thing in the
kitchen we are supplying is the built-in oven, hob and extractor. There is
only one possible place for a fridge/freezer to go so, although we aren't
providing it, I know where they'll have to plug theirs in which is why I can
say that it will definitely be on the unprotected circuit.

There will be plumbing for a washing machine (or dishwasher) if the tenant
has one. Should the supply for that preferably be protected or not?

Mogweed.

There will be plumbing for a washing machine (or dishwasher) if the tenant
has one. Should the supply for that preferably be protected or not?

I'd say it doesn't particularly matter. However, you should allow the
expected load in your diversity calculations, even if you don't actually
supply the appliance.

Christian.