Hello again

Well something has got me thinking again. Nearly finished putting down
my wetroom floor after hours of sweat (buckets of it), blood and very
nearly tears.

Anyway one thing occured to me, which maybe a stupid question, but how
are you supposed to tile a floor which is not level and has falls? I
purchased a shower tray which fixes to the joists and runs flush with
the floor which has falls built into it. After I have laid the tanking
membrane I plan to put electric UFH ontop and then tiles ontop of that.

Can anyone enlighten me, I'm assuming there is some special technique?

Cheers

TIA

Richard

In article .com,
writes:
Hello again

Well something has got me thinking again. Nearly finished putting down
my wetroom floor after hours of sweat (buckets of it), blood and very
nearly tears.

At least it should run away easily.

Anyway one thing occured to me, which maybe a stupid question, but how
are you supposed to tile a floor which is not level and has falls? I
purchased a shower tray which fixes to the joists and runs flush with
the floor which has falls built into it. After I have laid the tanking
membrane I plan to put electric UFH ontop and then tiles ontop of that.

Can anyone enlighten me, I'm assuming there is some special technique?

I tiled a small kitchen floor recently which was rather saucer
shaped -- 2" lower in the middle that around the walls. I didn't
do anything special for this, and it worked fine. However, one
thing I always do when tiling is to use the tile spacers in a
different way from what is intended. Instead of using a single
one inserted in the cross at the meeting of 4 tiles, I use 4 of
them, each with just one limb poked into each of the 4 gaps
between the tiles, and the rest sticking up above the floor like
little grave markers. This means I can do micro adjustments to
the spacing and make sure ajacent rows stay in sync. When the
tile adhesive is set, I pull the spacers out (the odd one snaps
off, but most come out complete).

--
Andrew Gabriel

On 18 Jun 2005 23:28:09 GMT, (Andrew
Gabriel) wrote:

Instead of using a single
one inserted in the cross at the meeting of 4 tiles, I use 4 of
them, each with just one limb poked into each of the 4 gaps
between the tiles, and the rest sticking up above the floor like
little grave markers. This means I can do micro adjustments to
the spacing and make sure ajacent rows stay in sync. When the
tile adhesive is set, I pull the spacers out (the odd one snaps
off, but most come out complete).

I thought that I was the only one who did that. Works well, doesn't
it////

--

..andy

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On Sun, 19 Jun 2005 09:00:27 +0100, Andy Hall wrote:

On 18 Jun 2005 23:28:09 GMT, (Andrew
Gabriel) wrote:

Instead of using a single
one inserted in the cross at the meeting of 4 tiles, I use 4 of
them, each with just one limb poked into each of the 4 gaps
between the tiles, and the rest sticking up above the floor like
little grave markers. This means I can do micro adjustments to
the spacing and make sure ajacent rows stay in sync. When the
tile adhesive is set, I pull the spacers out (the odd one snaps
off, but most come out complete).

I thought that I was the only one who did that. Works well, doesn't
it////

Not only do I do that, I've seen a professional (well, he did I job I'd
never even think of attempting, brilliantly) do it.

--
On-line canal route planner: http://www.canalplan.org.uk

(Waterways World site of the month, April 2001)

Andy Hall wrote:

I thought that I was the only one who did that. Works well, doesn't
it////


AOL

:-)

--
Grunff

In article .com,
writes:
Can anyone enlighten me, I'm assuming there is some special technique?

Just though of something else I did that made tiling a curved
floor easier -- I used smaller tiles, 200x200mm. I used them
because I thought they look nicer than the more common size, but
this would also make it easier to follow curved surfaces, and you
have 50% more grout lines available for making any micro adjustments.
OTOH, you need over twice as many tiles, so it takes twice as long
to lay, but I was very pleased with the effect -- it made a small
room look bigger.

--
Andrew Gabriel

Thanks all

Cheers

Richard

Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article .com,
writes:

Can anyone enlighten me, I'm assuming there is some special technique?


Just though of something else I did that made tiling a curved
floor easier -- I used smaller tiles, 200x200mm. I used them
because I thought they look nicer than the more common size, but
this would also make it easier to follow curved surfaces, and you
have 50% more grout lines available for making any micro adjustments.
OTOH, you need over twice as many tiles, so it takes twice as long
to lay, but I was very pleased with the effect -- it made a small
room look bigger.


Normal advice is to use large tiles to make a room look bigger.

Presumably the falls are planar, so the OP effectively has four
triangular surfaces rising away from the drain? In which case, all you
need to do is to cut the tiles to match the falls, as it were, i.e.
there will need to be a diagonal cut made so that the tiles don't cross
the four intersecting lines that seperate the planes.

£500 for the sealing kit seems very expensive, for the archives. I'm
sure BAL WP1 would have come in cheaper, or a mix of wediboard and WP1
to seal the joins.

Andy Hall wrote:

I thought that I was the only one who did that. Works well, doesn't
it////

Nope, me too!

(its is a bit more flexible I find, because if you need some tiny
adjustments, you can rotate the spacer 90 degrees to get a slightly
wider gap, or leave it put and add a second for wider still).

--
Cheers,

John.

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| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

John Rumm wrote:

(its is a bit more flexible I find, because if you need some tiny
adjustments, you can rotate the spacer 90 degrees to get a slightly
wider gap, or leave it put and add a second for wider still).

and... :¬)
The first time I tiled I found the tiles kept riding up over the X shape
making it near imposible to get them level again.

While we're on the subject.... I bet I'm not the only one that then
removes the incorrectly used spacers before the adhesive goes off, then
uses them to scrape out the gap for the grout. After all, they are the
perfect width.

:¬)


--
http://gymratz.co.uk - Best Gym Equipment & Bodybuilding Supplements UK.
http://trade-price-supplements.co.uk - TRADE PRICED SUPPLEMENTS for ALL!
http://fitness-equipment-uk.com - UK's No.1 Fitness Equipment Suppliers.
http://gymratz.co.uk/hot-seat.htm - Live web-cam! (sometimes)

Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk wrote:

While we're on the subject.... I bet I'm not the only one that then
removes the incorrectly used spacers before the adhesive goes off, then
uses them to scrape out the gap for the grout. After all, they are the
perfect width.

:¬)

Uncanny that...

Only if the adhesive has splodged out a little ;-)

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

I thought that I was the only one who did that. Works well, doesn't
it////

I get the impression that anyone who spends any time at all tiling soon
learns to do this.

Christian.

On Sun, 19 Jun 2005 09:28:44 +0100, Nick Atty
wrote:

On Sun, 19 Jun 2005 09:00:27 +0100, Andy Hall wrote:

On 18 Jun 2005 23:28:09 GMT, (Andrew
Gabriel) wrote:

Instead of using a single
one inserted in the cross at the meeting of 4 tiles, I use 4 of
them, each with just one limb poked into each of the 4 gaps
between the tiles, and the rest sticking up above the floor like
little grave markers. This means I can do micro adjustments to
the spacing and make sure ajacent rows stay in sync. When the
tile adhesive is set, I pull the spacers out (the odd one snaps
off, but most come out complete).

I thought that I was the only one who did that. Works well, doesn't
it////

Not only do I do that, I've seen a professional (well, he did I job I'd
never even think of attempting, brilliantly) do it.

I do that as well. Has the added advantage that you can twist the
spacers if you need to incease the spacing.

sponix

On Mon, 20 Jun 2005 10:56:45 +0100, "Christian McArdle"
wrote:

I thought that I was the only one who did that. Works well, doesn't
it////

I get the impression that anyone who spends any time at all tiling soon
learns to do this.

Soon there shall be a trendy fashion for improving the feng shui of
tiled floors by using more organic materials as tile spacers, perhaps
timber. Of course these would need to be dipped in something oily first,
to stop the adhesive sticking. We could even sell these in handy
pocket-sized boxes, for a fraction of the price of the plastic spacers.

Soon there shall be a trendy fashion for improving the feng shui of
tiled floors by using more organic materials as tile spacers, perhaps
timber. Of course these would need to be dipped in something oily first,
to stop the adhesive sticking. We could even sell these in handy
pocket-sized boxes, for a fraction of the price of the plastic spacers.

You could even dip the ends in phosphorus and create a dual purpose spacer
that could be used to light barbecues or candles.

Christian.

Andy Dingley wrote:

Soon there shall be a trendy fashion for improving the feng shui of
tiled floors by using more organic materials as tile spacers, perhaps
timber. Of course these would need to be dipped in something oily first,
to stop the adhesive sticking. We could even sell these in handy
pocket-sized boxes, for a fraction of the price of the plastic spacers.

Perhaps with a range of attractive coloured ends? ;-)

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Mon, 20 Jun 2005 10:49:16 GMT, (s--p--o--n--i--x)
wrote:

On Sun, 19 Jun 2005 09:28:44 +0100, Nick Atty
wrote:

On Sun, 19 Jun 2005 09:00:27 +0100, Andy Hall wrote:

On 18 Jun 2005 23:28:09 GMT, (Andrew
Gabriel) wrote:

Instead of using a single
one inserted in the cross at the meeting of 4 tiles, I use 4 of
them, each with just one limb poked into each of the 4 gaps
between the tiles, and the rest sticking up above the floor like
little grave markers. This means I can do micro adjustments to
the spacing and make sure ajacent rows stay in sync. When the
tile adhesive is set, I pull the spacers out (the odd one snaps
off, but most come out complete).

I thought that I was the only one who did that. Works well, doesn't
it////

Not only do I do that, I've seen a professional (well, he did I job I'd
never even think of attempting, brilliantly) do it.

I do that as well. Has the added advantage that you can twist the
spacers if you need to incease the spacing.

sponix


.... and here was me thinking that I'd invented something....



--

..andy

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The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
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On Mon, 20 Jun 2005 12:13:40 +0100, Andy Dingley
wrote:

On Mon, 20 Jun 2005 10:56:45 +0100, "Christian McArdle"
wrote:

I thought that I was the only one who did that. Works well, doesn't
it////

I get the impression that anyone who spends any time at all tiling soon
learns to do this.

Soon there shall be a trendy fashion for improving the feng shui of
tiled floors by using more organic materials as tile spacers, perhaps
timber. Of course these would need to be dipped in something oily first,
to stop the adhesive sticking. We could even sell these in handy
pocket-sized boxes, for a fraction of the price of the plastic spacers.

I think there's a business opportunity for you there, Andy.

However, the key point is to sell them for more than the plastic ones
because of the feng shui added value.

The little oil spots in the grout could be the signature that these
have been used - mentioned in estate agent literature etc.




--

..andy

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The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
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Andy Hall wrote:

... and here was me thinking that I'd invented something....

me too... )

Spot on that man. I was thinking I would have to do this hence my
original question, thanks.
Maybe but it's the complete kit including what they call an aquadec
(flush shower tray) primer, membrane, shower trap with re-inforcing
tape and some weird putty stuff. I haven't got round to water proofing
yet but I'm using 18mm WBP grade ply to secure the tray between the
joists which rests upon battens and I have some noggins to support all
the edges. An overlay of 4mm ply brings the floor all flush. I used
some spare french oak boards to completely reboard the room too as the
old boards were knackered after years of hacking apart. So far so
good.....

Cheers

Richard