Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Tiling & MDF
I am about to do some "boxing in" of pipes etc in the bathroom, and wish to
tile the boxes after. How well will tiles stick to MDF? Should I prepare the MDF surface first or use something else instead? TIA John |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
John wrote:
I am about to do some "boxing in" of pipes etc in the bathroom, and wish to tile the boxes after. How well will tiles stick to MDF? Should I prepare the MDF surface first or use something else instead? Some say PVA it, but to be honest I have tiled over it as is, with no especial problems. TIA John |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
On Sun, 5 Jun 2005 23:40:34 +0000 (UTC), "John"
wrote: I am about to do some "boxing in" of pipes etc in the bathroom, and wish to tile the boxes after. How well will tiles stick to MDF? Should I prepare the MDF surface first or use something else instead? TIA John It would help to varnish the MDF first. This would reduce the absorption of bathroom moisture and it would also prevent the tile adhesive being sucked dry too soon. -- Regards, Mike Halmarack Drop the EGG to email me. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
On Sun, 5 Jun 2005 23:40:34 +0000 (UTC), "John"
wrote: I am about to do some "boxing in" of pipes etc in the bathroom, and wish to tile the boxes after. How well will tiles stick to MDF? When the MDF is flat they'll be OK. If you get any warping from moisture effects, they'll pop off. I use Valchromat for this, not MDF. It's pre-coloured MDF with extra resin, so more stable in a moist environment. I've also used Viroc in the past, a cement based board that's fit for outdoor use. However it's so dusty you can't work it with your "good" saw, so I'm not altogether keen on maching it. As for adhesion, a coat of PVA first wouldn't hurt, but it works fine without. |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
"Andy Dingley" wrote in message ... On Sun, 5 Jun 2005 23:40:34 +0000 (UTC), "John" wrote: I am about to do some "boxing in" of pipes etc in the bathroom, and wish to tile the boxes after. How well will tiles stick to MDF? When the MDF is flat they'll be OK. If you get any warping from moisture effects, they'll pop off. I use Valchromat for this, not MDF. It's pre-coloured MDF with extra resin, so more stable in a moist environment. I've also used Viroc in the past, a cement based board that's fit for outdoor use. However it's so dusty you can't work it with your "good" saw, so I'm not altogether keen on maching it. As for adhesion, a coat of PVA first wouldn't hurt, but it works fine without. Adhesion is fine. I coated mine with PVA, but I've had two or three tiles crack, presumably due to the MDF absorbing water and swelling and its a real pain to replace those pesky cracked tiles! |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
On Sun, 5 Jun 2005 23:40:34 +0000 (UTC), "John"
wrote: I am about to do some "boxing in" of pipes etc in the bathroom, and wish to tile the boxes after. How well will tiles stick to MDF? Should I prepare the MDF surface first or use something else instead? Hi, I wouldn't use normal MDF and moisture resistant flooring chipboard is only available in thick pieces. So some thinnish WBP ply or softwood 'construction WBP' or even OSB could be best, try boiling an offcut to check you have the right stuff. For sealing PVA or varnish should be fine, but worth checking with the tile adhesive manufacturer. cheers, Pete. |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
could you not box in with plasterboard (or the water resistant type)?
Would that be another alternative ? (I'm not an expert just struck me as that will probably be what the rest of the walls are!!) -- Dave aka ElwoodTZW www.timezone-warriors.net "Pete C" wrote in message ... On Sun, 5 Jun 2005 23:40:34 +0000 (UTC), "John" wrote: I am about to do some "boxing in" of pipes etc in the bathroom, and wish to tile the boxes after. How well will tiles stick to MDF? Should I prepare the MDF surface first or use something else instead? Hi, I wouldn't use normal MDF and moisture resistant flooring chipboard is only available in thick pieces. So some thinnish WBP ply or softwood 'construction WBP' or even OSB could be best, try boiling an offcut to check you have the right stuff. For sealing PVA or varnish should be fine, but worth checking with the tile adhesive manufacturer. cheers, Pete. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
ElwoodTZW wrote:
could you not box in with plasterboard (or the water resistant type)? Would that be another alternative ? (I'm not an expert just struck me as that will probably be what the rest of the walls are!!) MDF works for me but in places where there could be wetting I use that water resistant board of thetype they sell in B&Q. easier to work/stronger than plasterboard but lot dearer. |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Tiling on Bonding Plaster? | UK diy | |||
Bathroom tiling.. | UK diy | |||
Another Tiling Question | UK diy | |||
Quick tiling questions | UK diy | |||
Tiling a shower, how to transition from backer board (durock) to drywall | Home Repair |