We Wish to tile or put laminate on an old wooden kitchen floor,would the
tiles crack because of movement. If we use wood style laminate, would
spillage spoil it. Any suggestions and Any advice appreciated. E

"Leveled" wrote in message
...
We Wish to tile or put laminate on an old wooden kitchen floor,would the
tiles crack because of movement. If we use wood style laminate, would
spillage spoil it. Any suggestions and Any advice appreciated. E



For ceramic tiling, lay 10mm Plywood first. The ply needs fixed (screwed)
to the original floor at quite close spacing to hold firm. Seal the surface
with two coats of a water/pva glue mixture to get a good grip on the tiling
adhesive.

Laminate flooring needs two coats of a good quality Polyurethane Varnish, or
Yacht Varnish, to make it more water resistant in a kitchen environment, but
nothing more special than that.

Leveled wrote:
We Wish to tile or put laminate on an old wooden kitchen floor,would the
tiles crack because of movement. If we use wood style laminate, would
spillage spoil it. Any suggestions and Any advice appreciated. E

We've had "cheap & cheerfull" non water-resistant laminate in the
kitchen for about 4 years or more now.
It's had it's fair share of fluid spillages, what with 2 dogs who's food
& water bowls are on it (one dog is the messiest of drinkers!)

ALso a Now 3 yr old who found the dogs water most fascinating!

Worst damage through water is a slight (fraction of a mm.) raising on
the joins where water has been in contact for more than 10 minutes or so.

Mop up spills when they happen and it will be fine.
DOn't think it would survive a washing machine flood though.

Laminate used was that quick lay "clip together" stuff.

Leveled wrote:
We Wish to tile or put laminate on an old wooden kitchen floor,would the
tiles crack because of movement.
Most likely if wooden floor has movement.
If we use wood style laminate, would
spillage spoil it. Any suggestions and Any advice appreciated. E

Mine hasn't in 6 years. The only damage is where sharp things have
fallen on the floor point first. Get the laminate rated for the location
e.g. the more expensive FloorMaster.

GymRatZ wrote:
Leveled wrote:
We Wish to tile or put laminate on an old wooden kitchen floor,would the
tiles crack because of movement. If we use wood style laminate, would
spillage spoil it. Any suggestions and Any advice appreciated. E

We've had "cheap & cheerfull" non water-resistant laminate in the
kitchen for about 4 years or more now.
It's had it's fair share of fluid spillages, what with 2 dogs who's food
& water bowls are on it (one dog is the messiest of drinkers!)

ALso a Now 3 yr old who found the dogs water most fascinating!

Worst damage through water is a slight (fraction of a mm.) raising on
the joins where water has been in contact for more than 10 minutes or so.

Mop up spills when they happen and it will be fine.
DOn't think it would survive a washing machine flood though.

Ours has :-) The U bend in the d/w and w/m drain gradually became
blocked causing water to spill over the top of the standpipes every
time one of the machines pumped out. Eventually the blockage was severe
enough that enough water was dumped on the floor to be visible around
the edges of the appliances. So, it survived regular wetting and drying
out naturally for a number of weeks.

Ths is the tile effect stuff from B&Q.

What didn't survive was the worktop above which has partially
delaminated along the front edge due, presumably, to the humidity and
quality of said worktop.

MBQ

BigWallop wrote:
Laminate flooring needs two coats of a good quality Polyurethane Varnish, or
Yacht Varnish, to make it more water resistant in a kitchen environment, but
nothing more special than that.

Some doesn't need anything. See other post for details.

MBQ

We Wish to tile or put laminate on an old wooden kitchen floor,would the
tiles crack because of movement. If we use wood style laminate, would
spillage spoil it. Any suggestions and Any advice appreciated. E

If you're tiling then I'd add to the "cover with plywood" response by
suggesting you also add some of that plasticiser stuff to the tile cement -
sorry, the name of it escapes me. I've tiled a kitchen and dining room
floors with it over 12 years ago and it's still fine, and I didn't use
particularly heavy ply, maybe 1/2 inch.

If you're using wood-style laminate, then what I've done in the past is use
silicon to glue the strips together rather than glue. It's worked so far.

In article , BigWallop
writes

"Leveled" wrote in message
...
We Wish to tile or put laminate on an old wooden kitchen floor,would the
tiles crack because of movement. If we use wood style laminate, would
spillage spoil it. Any suggestions and Any advice appreciated. E


Laminate flooring needs two coats of a good quality Polyurethane Varnish, or
Yacht Varnish, to make it more water resistant in a kitchen environment, but
nothing more special than that.

You ever tried varnishing laminate flooring then? There's no way it
would stick to it.
--
Tim Mitchell

In article ,
BigWallop wrote:

Laminate flooring needs two coats of a good quality Polyurethane Varnish, or
Yacht Varnish, to make it more water resistant in a kitchen environment, but
nothing more special than that.


Eh? I can't believe you would ever get varnish to stick to laminate flooring.

Laminate is fine in a kitchen *if* you use the correct stuff. Stay clear of
the cheap stuff and make sure whatever is used is rated for kitchens and
bathrooms.

We did our kitchen with the Tile effect click stuff from B&Q (about 30 quid a
sqm I think - probably cheaper now) and the offcuts that I have outside are
still fine. No sign of swelling at all and it has had all winter out in the
weather. A flood from the washing machine hasn't harmed it either.

Darren

In article ,
keefers wrote:

If you're using wood-style laminate, then what I've done in the past is use
silicon to glue the strips together rather than glue. It's worked so far.

go for the click stuff made for the job. This fits so tightly together
that glue let alone silicon would stop it clicking together properly.

Floormaster Tileloc was the stuff we used - it's been excellent so far.

Darren

"BigWallop" wrote in message
. uk...

"Leveled" wrote in message
...
We Wish to tile or put laminate on an old wooden kitchen floor,would the
tiles crack because of movement. If we use wood style laminate, would
spillage spoil it. Any suggestions and Any advice appreciated. E



For ceramic tiling, lay 10mm Plywood first. The ply needs fixed (screwed)
to the original floor at quite close spacing to hold firm. Seal the
surface
with two coats of a water/pva glue mixture to get a good grip on the
tiling
adhesive.

Laminate flooring needs two coats of a good quality Polyurethane Varnish,
or
Yacht Varnish, to make it more water resistant in a kitchen environment,
but
nothing more special than that.



Our kitchen floor is laid in cheap click-lock laminate and it buffed and
varnished with no problems at all. After five years of kids and dogs and
soakings, it still looks great and cleans very, very easily. I think we
spent the same amount of cost on a good Yacht Varnish as we did on the
actual laminate.

Oh well. :-) Each to their own, I s'ppose.

BigWallop wrote:
"Leveled" wrote in message
...

We Wish to tile or put laminate on an old wooden kitchen floor,would the
tiles crack because of movement. If we use wood style laminate, would
spillage spoil it. Any suggestions and Any advice appreciated. E


For ceramic tiling, lay 10mm Plywood first. The ply needs fixed (screwed)
to the original floor at quite close spacing to hold firm. Seal the surface
with two coats of a water/pva glue mixture to get a good grip on the tiling
adhesive.

I did that when tiling onto chipboard. The pva gave a shiny smooth
finish that the adhesive didnt make any attempt at all to stick to.
Tiles literally lifted off with no pressure at all. I had to sand it
off and just tile onto bare chip, crossing my fingers the water content
didnt wreck it - it was fine.

I would think tiles would give a more durable and lower cost floor. Yes
you can buy wood that lasts, but its not cheap.

If you tile, definitely post-treat the grout, it can greatly extend
floor life and ease of cleaning.


NT

wrote:

I did that [applied PVA] tiling onto chipboard. The pva gave a shiny
smooth finish that the adhesive didnt make any attempt at all to stick
to. Tiles literally lifted off with no pressure at all.

With PVA, unless you really want to seal the surface, apply the
(plaster, render, tile adhesive) on top as soon as you've PVA'd.
The idea is that the PVA leaches into each surfave, creating a
bond. Many people let it dry completely, then it's like trying
to stick something onto a sheet of Formica.

Chris Bacon wrote:
wrote:

I did that [applied PVA] tiling onto chipboard. The pva gave a shiny
smooth finish that the adhesive didnt make any attempt at all to stick
to. Tiles literally lifted off with no pressure at all.

With PVA, unless you really want to seal the surface, apply the
(plaster, render, tile adhesive) on top as soon as you've PVA'd.
The idea is that the PVA leaches into each surfave, creating a
bond. Many people let it dry completely, then it's like trying
to stick something onto a sheet of Formica.

I guess I laernt that the annoying way Yep, had to chip the stuff
off the tiles to reuse them as well.


NT

wrote in message
ups.com...
BigWallop wrote:
"Leveled" wrote in message
...

We Wish to tile or put laminate on an old wooden kitchen floor,would
the
tiles crack because of movement. If we use wood style laminate,
would
spillage spoil it. Any suggestions and Any advice appreciated. E


For ceramic tiling, lay 10mm Plywood first. The ply needs fixed
(screwed)
to the original floor at quite close spacing to hold firm. Seal the
surface
with two coats of a water/pva glue mixture to get a good grip on the
tiling
adhesive.

I did that when tiling onto chipboard. The pva gave a shiny smooth
finish that the adhesive didnt make any attempt at all to stick to.
Tiles literally lifted off with no pressure at all. I had to sand it
off and just tile onto bare chip, crossing my fingers the water content
didnt wreck it - it was fine.
I've never known tile adhesive not stick like **** to a blanket when the
surface is sealed. I mean, it sticks to other tiles, and you can't get
more
sealed than that. I'd guess maybe you didn't use enough adhesive.


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"Chris Bacon" wrote in message
...
wrote:

I did that [applied PVA] tiling onto chipboard. The pva gave a shiny
smooth finish that the adhesive didnt make any attempt at all to stick
to. Tiles literally lifted off with no pressure at all.

With PVA, unless you really want to seal the surface, apply the
(plaster, render, tile adhesive) on top as soon as you've PVA'd.
The idea is that the PVA leaches into each surfave, creating a
bond. Many people let it dry completely, then it's like trying
to stick something onto a sheet of Formica.
Interesting. I can't imagine much sticking to formica, but IME pva sticks
to
pva, wet or dry. On a well sealed the surface the initial bond appears not
too good, but the final bond is better if that makes sense.


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Stuart Noble wrote:
wrote in message

I've never known tile adhesive not stick like **** to a blanket when the
surface is sealed. I mean, it sticks to other tiles, and you can't get
more
sealed than that. I'd guess maybe you didn't use enough adhesive.

An unlikely guess I think. They were squished into a full layer of
adhesive, not dotted. It was a white powder all in one job, basically
white cement I suspect. And yes, before you ask, I did mix it with
water.

I changed over to ready mixed tub stuff that worked properly and just
used the white as grout.


NT

wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:

wrote in message


I've never known tile adhesive not stick like **** to a blanket when the
surface is sealed. I mean, it sticks to other tiles, and you can't get
more
sealed than that. I'd guess maybe you didn't use enough adhesive.


An unlikely guess I think. They were squished into a full layer of
adhesive, not dotted. It was a white powder all in one job, basically
white cement I suspect. And yes, before you ask, I did mix it with
water.

I changed over to ready mixed tub stuff that worked properly and just
used the white as grout.


NT

Tiling over surfaces which can change with moisture and temperature is
normally best achieved by using a latex additive to the adhesive.. I
know you can purchase this from most tile centres and even B&Q.. This
allows a little movement to the adhesive and will allow this to expand
and contact as the base surface does... Tends to be especially important
in kitchen and bathroom installations. If the surface is very uneven as
in old floorboards then cover first with three millimetre ply or
hardboard.. This also helps future changes as if you wish to remove the
tiles and go back to boards you can cleanly pull up the covering boards..D