I need to build a small pipe network with several ball valves to control
water destination and its route. Here's the background.

Our water supply is from a spring and is normally enough for our needs.
We have a borehole supply as a stand-by for very dry summers. We've
never needed to use this but it needs to be available. In addition the
borehole is used to supply water to the neighbouring farmer's sheep and
the garden if our butts are empty. The water in the borehole is filtered
to take out the iron. The process of using the borehole supply goes
something like this:

1. Run water directly from borehole into ditch until it runs clear
(viewed via a glass pipe in the network.)

2. Run water to destination via filter, one of:
holding tank for house supply,
tank in field for sheep,
tank in garden for plant watering

3. Backflush the filter by running water through filter in reverse
and into ditch for same length of time as 2.

The pipe network has, up until now, been made of PVC-U fittings (George
Fischer grey pipes) with a series of ball valves. Last winter some pipes
cracked---my fault for not draining a section---and so much of it needs
to be replaced as it is made up of cemented connections rather than
threaded or pushfit connections.

Some of the pipes going to the final destinations are the blue pipes
(MDPE?) with a adaptors being used. Everything is pretty much one inch
bore. I don't know what the pressure is but the MDPE connectors cope okay.

The filter has a single in and a single out connector using 1 inch
threaded metal pipes but there are adaptors available to both the PVC-U
and the MDPE.

Now, I could just rebuild the previous layout by buying various spares
from George Fischer (RS don't quite stock the full range I need) but the
valves are fairly pricey and there's a lot of cementing to do.

I have two questions, one a logic puzzle, the other a technical question.

First what is the minimum number of ball valves or taps that I need to
accomplish every option (given any number of pipes, elbows, tees and
crosses?)

The five paths a
Borehole - Ditch (avoiding filter)
Borehole - filter - holding tank
Borehole - filter - field
Borehole - filter - garden
Borehole - (filter backwards) - ditch

It's this last requirement that bumps up the number I think.

Second, as I can't second guess why the original occupant chose PVC-U,
what other piping systems should I consider?

It seems to be the valves/taps that cost the money so a system with the
fewest, cheapest taps would be the cheapest option.

Incidentally, I know the current layout and number of taps but I thought
I'd not prejudice any novel answers at this stage.

Colin

"Colin Blackburn" wrote in message
...
I need to build a small pipe network with several ball valves to control
water destination and its route. Here's the background.

Our water supply is from a spring and is normally enough for our needs. We
have a borehole supply as a stand-by for very dry summers. We've never
needed to use this but it needs to be available. In addition the borehole
is used to supply water to the neighbouring farmer's sheep and the garden
if our butts are empty. The water in the borehole is filtered to take out
the iron. The process of using the borehole supply goes something like
this:

1. Run water directly from borehole into ditch until it runs clear
(viewed via a glass pipe in the network.)

2. Run water to destination via filter, one of:
holding tank for house supply,
tank in field for sheep,
tank in garden for plant watering

3. Backflush the filter by running water through filter in reverse
and into ditch for same length of time as 2.

The pipe network has, up until now, been made of PVC-U fittings (George
Fischer grey pipes) with a series of ball valves. Last winter some pipes
cracked---my fault for not draining a section---and so much of it needs to
be replaced as it is made up of cemented connections rather than threaded
or pushfit connections.

Some of the pipes going to the final destinations are the blue pipes
(MDPE?) with a adaptors being used. Everything is pretty much one inch
bore. I don't know what the pressure is but the MDPE connectors cope okay.

The filter has a single in and a single out connector using 1 inch
threaded metal pipes but there are adaptors available to both the PVC-U
and the MDPE.

Now, I could just rebuild the previous layout by buying various spares
from George Fischer (RS don't quite stock the full range I need) but the
valves are fairly pricey and there's a lot of cementing to do.

I have two questions, one a logic puzzle, the other a technical question.

First what is the minimum number of ball valves or taps that I need to
accomplish every option (given any number of pipes, elbows, tees and
crosses?)

The five paths a
Borehole - Ditch (avoiding filter)
Borehole - filter - holding tank
Borehole - filter - field
Borehole - filter - garden
Borehole - (filter backwards) - ditch

It's this last requirement that bumps up the number I think.

Second, as I can't second guess why the original occupant chose PVC-U,
what other piping systems should I consider?

It seems to be the valves/taps that cost the money so a system with the
fewest, cheapest taps would be the cheapest option.

Incidentally, I know the current layout and number of taps but I thought
I'd not prejudice any novel answers at this stage.

Colin

Hi Colin.
I would do it with 3 on/off ball valves and 3 3way ball valves.
I think I would use copper tube and solder joints and brass valves.
Problem.
When you are back flushing (I take it that you are using bore hole water)
you are getting contaminates on the "Clean" side of the filter.
Baz.
Do I win a prize?

"Baz" wrote in message
...
I need to build a small pipe network with several ball valves to control
water destination and its route. Here's the background.

Our water supply is from a spring and is normally enough for our needs.
We
have a borehole supply as a stand-by for very dry summers. We've never
needed to use this but it needs to be available. In addition the
borehole
is used to supply water to the neighbouring farmer's sheep and the
garden
if our butts are empty. The water in the borehole is filtered to take
out
the iron.

I would do it with 3 on/off ball valves and 3 3way ball valves.
I think I would use copper tube and solder joints and brass valves.

Spring and borehole water is often acidic and copper pipe lasts months at
most. Have it tested or use only plastic parts.

What filter do you use for the iron and is it effective ?

Mike wrote:

Spring and borehole water is often acidic and copper pipe lasts months at
most. Have it tested or use only plastic parts.

What filter do you use for the iron and is it effective ?

I'd have to check. The filter medium is a granular substrate, the filter
itself is a 4 feet high cylinder filled with this stuff.

Is it effective? Well at a visual inspection level it is, beyond that I
don't know. None of the farmer's sheep have ever died!

Testing both water supplies is on the cards for this summer.

Colin

"Colin Blackburn" wrote in message
...
....
First what is the minimum number of ball valves or taps that I need to
accomplish every option (given any number of pipes, elbows, tees and
crosses?)

The five paths a
Borehole - Ditch (avoiding filter)
Borehole - filter - holding tank
Borehole - filter - field
Borehole - filter - garden
Borehole - (filter backwards) - ditch
....

Try looking at swimming pool equipment. Mine has one six-position valve to
the filter that IIRC would cope with that. However, as it is at the other
end of France, I can't check that right now.

Colin Bignell