Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Al A.
 
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Default Glue for rubber to Al?

Hi All,
I am fixing up an old 2X48, 2 wheel belt sander/grinder. The smaller
of the 2 wheels is junk so I am making a new one. Simple enough.
I am thinking that I would like to surface this wheel with some rubber
I have (about 0.2" or so thick). I am wondering what sort of adhesive
might be good for that. the wheel is aluminum, I am not certain
exactly what sort of rubber I have, it is black, and I think that it
is scrap from the roofer guys at the place I work. they used it as
padding under some heavy rooftop equipment we have up there, IIRC.

Before I just close my eyes and grab something from the "Big
Box-O-Glue", any thoughts or suggestions? Anyone done this before?

Thanks,
AL A.
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Ecnerwal
 
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In article ,
Al A. wrote:

Before I just close my eyes and grab something from the "Big
Box-O-Glue", any thoughts or suggestions? Anyone done this before?


It will probably peel off. Thermal cycling is a difficult problem to get
by with rubber glued to metal. But hey, it costs little to try. Contact
cement and getting the metal very, very clean.

I'd suggest finding a section of hose at the hardware store or auto
parts which has an outer diameter you like, and then turn your pulley to
have an inner diameter that just lets you jam the hose on there, so you
have a no-seam ring of rubber, mostly held on by friction. Remember to
put a bit of crown on the pulley, too - you can probably just crown the
rubber once the rubber is on there.

--
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Randy Zimmerman
 
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There are many specialty shops that will vulcanize rubber onto the wheels to
any hardness and thickness you want. I worked for a company that did
production belt grinding of welded seams. Normally the idler was crowned,
bare metal, and held the belt on track. The other wheel was machined square
with sometimes a little break on each edge to prevent cutting the belt.
I have made school project wheels using inner tube material to cover the
aluminum wheel. I would use common contact cement and roll on the section
of tube like a sock. When I didn't have the correct diameter tubing I tried
just rolling on a section of tube. I was amazed that it held and the seam
line did not peel off. Make sure that you use the contact cement properly.
That means the coating on both the wheel and rubber must be tack free before
assembly.
Randy

"Al A." wrote in message
...
Hi All,
I am fixing up an old 2X48, 2 wheel belt sander/grinder. The smaller
of the 2 wheels is junk so I am making a new one. Simple enough.
I am thinking that I would like to surface this wheel with some rubber
I have (about 0.2" or so thick). I am wondering what sort of adhesive
might be good for that. the wheel is aluminum, I am not certain
exactly what sort of rubber I have, it is black, and I think that it
is scrap from the roofer guys at the place I work. they used it as
padding under some heavy rooftop equipment we have up there, IIRC.

Before I just close my eyes and grab something from the "Big
Box-O-Glue", any thoughts or suggestions? Anyone done this before?

Thanks,
AL A.



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Tom Miller
 
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Lock tite make something called BlackJack that should do the job.
Tom
"Al A." wrote in message
...
Hi All,
I am fixing up an old 2X48, 2 wheel belt sander/grinder. The smaller
of the 2 wheels is junk so I am making a new one. Simple enough.
I am thinking that I would like to surface this wheel with some rubber
I have (about 0.2" or so thick). I am wondering what sort of adhesive
might be good for that. the wheel is aluminum, I am not certain
exactly what sort of rubber I have, it is black, and I think that it
is scrap from the roofer guys at the place I work. they used it as
padding under some heavy rooftop equipment we have up there, IIRC.

Before I just close my eyes and grab something from the "Big
Box-O-Glue", any thoughts or suggestions? Anyone done this before?

Thanks,
AL A.





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Al A.
 
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Thanks for the ideas, guys. I like the "press a section of hose over
it" idea. I may even have some suitable stuff under one of the benches
at work. Have to check that tomorrow. If not, contact adhesive sounds
like the next good choice.

Thanks again!

AL A.
  #7   Report Post  
Ken Davey
 
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Al A. wrote:
Thanks for the ideas, guys. I like the "press a section of hose over
it" idea. I may even have some suitable stuff under one of the benches
at work. Have to check that tomorrow. If not, contact adhesive sounds
like the next good choice.

Thanks again!

AL A.

And just to repeat a suggestion at the beinning of this thread - if you are
contemplating glue - GET THE METAL CLEAN!

Ken.


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carl mciver
 
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Go find some synthetic rubber cement. Most of its synthetic now,
anyway. Get some MEK or Touluene solvent while you're there. Cut some of
the cement until it runs like water. Brush it on both sides of the joint
and come back half an hour later or until it is tack free. Put them
together and press them in place for awhile, like a day or so in a
reasonably warm place. The remaining traces of solvent will stick the glued
parts together, and after awhile should be as tight as you can ever get
rubber cement. The reason for the solvent is to get it thin enough to be a
very smooth surface, free from as many bumps and whatnot as you can get,
unlike the uncut stuff which is darn near impossible to do.

"Al A." wrote in message
news |
| Thanks for the ideas, guys. I like the "press a section of hose over
| it" idea. I may even have some suitable stuff under one of the benches
| at work. Have to check that tomorrow. If not, contact adhesive sounds
| like the next good choice.
|
| Thanks again!
|
| AL A.

  #9   Report Post  
Rex B
 
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Default

Ken Davey wrote:

Al A. wrote:

Thanks for the ideas, guys. I like the "press a section of hose over
it" idea. I may even have some suitable stuff under one of the benches
at work. Have to check that tomorrow. If not, contact adhesive sounds
like the next good choice.

Thanks again!

AL A.


And just to repeat a suggestion at the beinning of this thread - if you are
contemplating glue - GET THE METAL CLEAN!


I'd also suggest the last cut on the OD of the wheel be with a
sharp-pointed bit so it tears the metal. Excellent grip for an adhesive.

  #10   Report Post  
Roger Shoaf
 
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"Al A." wrote in message
news

Thanks for the ideas, guys. I like the "press a section of hose over
it" idea. I may even have some suitable stuff under one of the benches
at work. Have to check that tomorrow. If not, contact adhesive sounds
like the next good choice.

Thanks again!

AL A.


If you can't find a suitable hose (think about the possible internal braids)
You might be able to get a chunk of rubber in the kind you need. It comes
in different thickness and hardness and formulations.

I would think you also might be able to find a bushing that was close and
glue it over your roller and then with the whole assembly mounted on your
lathe grind the od to what you need.

If you have a tool post grinder this is no problem, if not you might be able
to jury rig a small hand grinder to the tool post and take light cuts off
the rubber.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.




  #11   Report Post  
Al A.
 
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Again, All excellent suggestions. I am still looking around for some
hose in a good size. If not, I will go the glue route, following all
of the advice here. I have not gotten back to this part of the project
yet, but will let you know how it goes when I do.
Thanks again!

-AL
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