We are setting up a "family machine shop". Way back when, during an
ebay buying binge, I bought a nifty old diamond wheel tool grinder.
I'm having a senior moment and can't remember the brand but it is good
old 'murcan iron. It has a single phase 110v motor.

My understanding is that its purpose on earth is to cut carbide lathe
tools. Now that we've recently acquired a tiny Enco lathe and mill,
the tool grinder may cease being an objet d'art and resume a practical
life.

We are all clueless, rank amateurs. So forgive the stupidity of my
questions.

But here's one: Do we really need this grinder? I don't know how
long a lathe tool lasts. Nor do I know how much they cost. In other
words, since we don't have an industrial shop full of union
machinists, is this tool overkill for our needs? Or is it a valuable
addition to a small shop?

Thanks,
Vernon

On Oct 20, 9:47*pm, Vernon wrote:
We are setting up a "family machine shop". *Way back when, during an
ebay buying binge, I bought a nifty old diamond wheel tool grinder.
I'm having a senior moment and can't remember the brand but it is good
old 'murcan iron. *It has a single phase 110v motor.

My understanding is that its purpose on earth is to cut carbide lathe
tools. *Now that we've recently acquired a tiny Enco lathe and mill,
the tool grinder may cease being an objet d'art and resume a practical
life.

We are all clueless, rank amateurs. *So forgive the stupidity of my
questions.

But here's one: *Do we really need this grinder? *I don't know how
long a lathe tool lasts. *Nor do I know how much they cost. *In other
words, since we don't have an industrial shop full of union
machinists, is this tool overkill for our needs? *Or is it a valuable
addition to a small shop?

Thanks,
Vernon

To clarify: This is not a fancy multi-head tool maker's grinder. It
is not too different from a bench grinder. However, it has a
vertically spinning diamond wheel, one side of which, has a table that
can be adjusted for angle and distance from the diamond wheel. The
work is fed into the face of the diamond wheel, not the edge. My
understanding is that its exclusive purpose is the grinding of carbide
lathe "inserts".

V

On 2008-10-21, Vernon wrote:
We are setting up a "family machine shop". Way back when, during an
ebay buying binge, I bought a nifty old diamond wheel tool grinder.
I'm having a senior moment and can't remember the brand but it is good
old 'murcan iron. It has a single phase 110v motor.

My understanding is that its purpose on earth is to cut carbide lathe
tools. Now that we've recently acquired a tiny Enco lathe and mill,
the tool grinder may cease being an objet d'art and resume a practical
life.

Note that you should *not* use a diamond wheel on normal steels,
including HSS which represents a lot of lathe bits.

We are all clueless, rank amateurs. So forgive the stupidity of my
questions.

But here's one: Do we really need this grinder? I don't know how
long a lathe tool lasts. Nor do I know how much they cost. In other
words, since we don't have an industrial shop full of union
machinists, is this tool overkill for our needs? Or is it a valuable
addition to a small shop?

HSS bits come as blanks, which you need to grind to the shape
needed for your task of the moment. You will need a normal stone, not a
diamond stone for these.

You can have two kinds of carbide late tools:

1) Brazed insert tooling. A small piece of carbide is brazed to
the steel shank with some overhang so you can grind the carbide
without touching the HSS (which would ruin your diamond wheel,
and any other wheel would be pretty close to useless on carbide.

These can dull and need touching up. They come premade in
several shapes -- right-hand cutting, left-hand cutting and
other shapes.

2) Indexable insert tooling. The carbide drops into a pocket
and is held down by one of several techniques. When it gets
dull, you loosen the hold-down, and rotate to the next point.
Each point will project the same distance, so you don't have to
re-adjust the position of the tool when you index to the next
point.

You *could* sharpen these -- but you would lose the benefit of
repeatable projection, and many inserts of this type have
grooves to act as chipbreakers and for various other purposes,
and grinding would change the relationship of the edge to the
grooves -- so it is better to not grind on the inserts.

So -- the diamond wheel grinder which you have could be used for
sharpening brazed insert carbide tooling, and for changing the shape
somewhat for special purposes -- but you will need another grinder for
normal HSS tool grinding.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Mon, 20 Oct 2008 20:53:42 -0700 (PDT), Vernon
wrote:

On Oct 20, 9:47*pm, Vernon wrote:
We are setting up a "family machine shop". *Way back when, during an
ebay buying binge, I bought a nifty old diamond wheel tool grinder.
I'm having a senior moment and can't remember the brand but it is good
old 'murcan iron. *It has a single phase 110v motor.

My understanding is that its purpose on earth is to cut carbide lathe
tools. *Now that we've recently acquired a tiny Enco lathe and mill,
the tool grinder may cease being an objet d'art and resume a practical
life.

We are all clueless, rank amateurs. *So forgive the stupidity of my
questions.

But here's one: *Do we really need this grinder? *I don't know how
long a lathe tool lasts. *Nor do I know how much they cost. *In other
words, since we don't have an industrial shop full of union
machinists, is this tool overkill for our needs? *Or is it a valuable
addition to a small shop?

Thanks,
Vernon

To clarify: This is not a fancy multi-head tool maker's grinder. It
is not too different from a bench grinder. However, it has a
vertically spinning diamond wheel, one side of which, has a table that
can be adjusted for angle and distance from the diamond wheel. The
work is fed into the face of the diamond wheel, not the edge. My
understanding is that its exclusive purpose is the grinding of carbide
lathe "inserts".

V
Actually, you can use it to grind any carbide bit, do not use for high
speed steel bits as you will destroy the diamond wheel. If it were
mine, I would look into replacing the diamond wheel with a similar one
made of carborundum or aluminium oxide. This would make it very
useful.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

On Oct 21, 12:21*am, Gerald Miller wrote:
On Mon, 20 Oct 2008 20:53:42 -0700 (PDT), Vernon
wrote:





On Oct 20, 9:47*pm, Vernon wrote:
We are setting up a "family machine shop". *Way back when, during an
ebay buying binge, I bought a nifty old diamond wheel tool grinder.
I'm having a senior moment and can't remember the brand but it is good
old 'murcan iron. *It has a single phase 110v motor.

My understanding is that its purpose on earth is to cut carbide lathe
tools. *Now that we've recently acquired a tiny Enco lathe and mill,
the tool grinder may cease being an objet d'art and resume a practical
life.

We are all clueless, rank amateurs. *So forgive the stupidity of my
questions.

But here's one: *Do we really need this grinder? *I don't know how
long a lathe tool lasts. *Nor do I know how much they cost. *In other
words, since we don't have an industrial shop full of union
machinists, is this tool overkill for our needs? *Or is it a valuable
addition to a small shop?

Thanks,
Vernon

To clarify: *This is not a fancy multi-head tool maker's grinder. *It
is not too different from a bench grinder. *However, it has a
vertically spinning diamond wheel, one side of which, has a table that
can be adjusted for angle and distance from the diamond wheel. *The
work is fed into the face of the diamond wheel, not the edge. *My
understanding is that its exclusive purpose is the grinding of carbide
lathe "inserts".

V

Actually, you can use it to grind any carbide bit, do not use for high
speed steel bits as you will destroy the diamond wheel. If it were
mine, I would look into replacing the diamond wheel with a similar one
made of carborundum or aluminium oxide. This would make it very
useful.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Don and Gerry. Thanks. That was very helpful. I will attempt to
educate myself as to the differences between applicability of HSS and
carbide as regards anything we are likely to do. Steel is something I
understand. At least, far better than carbide. So I will look into
replacing the wheel.

V

On Mon, 20 Oct 2008 19:47:36 -0700 (PDT), Vernon wrote:

We are setting up a "family machine shop". Way back when, during an
ebay buying binge, I bought a nifty old diamond wheel tool grinder.
I'm having a senior moment and can't remember the brand but it is good
old 'murcan iron. It has a single phase 110v motor.

My understanding is that its purpose on earth is to cut carbide lathe
tools. Now that we've recently acquired a tiny Enco lathe and mill,
the tool grinder may cease being an objet d'art and resume a practical
life.

We are all clueless, rank amateurs. So forgive the stupidity of my
questions.

But here's one: Do we really need this grinder? I don't know how
long a lathe tool lasts. Nor do I know how much they cost. In other
words, since we don't have an industrial shop full of union
machinists, is this tool overkill for our needs? Or is it a valuable
addition to a small shop?


No.

You'll never need it; carbide lasts forever, even when you crash the tool
into the chuck jaws.

Send it to me - I'll dispose of it safely for you.

On Mon, 20 Oct 2008 22:58:55 -0700 (PDT), Vernon
wrote:

On Oct 21, 12:21*am, Gerald Miller wrote:
On Mon, 20 Oct 2008 20:53:42 -0700 (PDT), Vernon
wrote:





On Oct 20, 9:47*pm, Vernon wrote:
We are setting up a "family machine shop". *Way back when, during an
ebay buying binge, I bought a nifty old diamond wheel tool grinder.
I'm having a senior moment and can't remember the brand but it is good
old 'murcan iron. *It has a single phase 110v motor.

My understanding is that its purpose on earth is to cut carbide lathe
tools. *Now that we've recently acquired a tiny Enco lathe and mill,
the tool grinder may cease being an objet d'art and resume a practical
life.

We are all clueless, rank amateurs. *So forgive the stupidity of my
questions.

But here's one: *Do we really need this grinder? *I don't know how
long a lathe tool lasts. *Nor do I know how much they cost. *In other
words, since we don't have an industrial shop full of union
machinists, is this tool overkill for our needs? *Or is it a valuable
addition to a small shop?

Thanks,
Vernon

To clarify: *This is not a fancy multi-head tool maker's grinder. *It
is not too different from a bench grinder. *However, it has a
vertically spinning diamond wheel, one side of which, has a table that
can be adjusted for angle and distance from the diamond wheel. *The
work is fed into the face of the diamond wheel, not the edge. *My
understanding is that its exclusive purpose is the grinding of carbide
lathe "inserts".

V

Actually, you can use it to grind any carbide bit, do not use for high
speed steel bits as you will destroy the diamond wheel. If it were
mine, I would look into replacing the diamond wheel with a similar one
made of carborundum or aluminium oxide. This would make it very
useful.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Don and Gerry. Thanks. That was very helpful. I will attempt to
educate myself as to the differences between applicability of HSS and
carbide as regards anything we are likely to do. Steel is something I
understand. At least, far better than carbide. So I will look into
replacing the wheel.

V


I concur. With small lathes..High Speed Steel cutters are going to be
best for you, as you cannot generally generate the cutting forces that
carbide requires..is is required for. Razor sharp HSS is what you are
going to be needing..and Carbide can never really be made razor
sharp..the edges tend to be too friable.

Put a white wheel on you tool grinder and you are golden for making
cutters, shaping cutters and resharpening cutters..HSS ones.

Im a bit grinder poor in my shop, with 3 verticle bench sanders, 2
Baldor tool grinders (one for carbide, one for HSS) etc etc...and
generally the belt sanders or HSS cutter grinders get the most use.

Gunner

Whenever a Liberal utters the term "Common Sense approach"....grab your
wallet, your ass, and your guns because the sombitch is about to do
something damned nasty to all three of them.

On Mon, 20 Oct 2008 19:47:36 -0700 (PDT), the infamous Vernon
scrawled the following:

We are setting up a "family machine shop". Way back when, during an
ebay buying binge, I bought a nifty old diamond wheel tool grinder.
I'm having a senior moment and can't remember the brand but it is good
old 'murcan iron. It has a single phase 110v motor.

My understanding is that its purpose on earth is to cut carbide lathe
tools. Now that we've recently acquired a tiny Enco lathe and mill,
the tool grinder may cease being an objet d'art and resume a practical
life.

We are all clueless, rank amateurs. So forgive the stupidity of my
questions.

But here's one: Do we really need this grinder? I don't know how
long a lathe tool lasts. Nor do I know how much they cost. In other
words, since we don't have an industrial shop full of union
machinists, is this tool overkill for our needs? Or is it a valuable
addition to a small shop?

I'm not a machinist, but I can tell you that it's a valuable addition
to the shop. Learn to sharpen your own tools and save tons of time
and a bit of money. If you can adapt it and learn to use it for your
kitchen knives and wifey will love you all the more. What's not to
like?

An Old Tool is a Good Tool!

--
"Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it
exists or not, diagnosing it incorrectly, and applying the wrong
remedy." -- Ernest Benn

On 21 Oct 2008 04:58:11 GMT, the infamous "DoN. Nichols"
scrawled the following:

On 2008-10-21, Vernon wrote:
We are setting up a "family machine shop". Way back when, during an
ebay buying binge, I bought a nifty old diamond wheel tool grinder.
I'm having a senior moment and can't remember the brand but it is good
old 'murcan iron. It has a single phase 110v motor.

My understanding is that its purpose on earth is to cut carbide lathe
tools. Now that we've recently acquired a tiny Enco lathe and mill,
the tool grinder may cease being an objet d'art and resume a practical
life.

Note that you should *not* use a diamond wheel on normal steels,
including HSS which represents a lot of lathe bits.

I thought -speed- determined that. I adore static diamond plates (both
EZE Lap and DMT) and sharpen everything I own on them. If his diamond
wheel is geared down like the woodworking sharpeners, it should be
great on HSS, too, shouldn't it? Isn't it heat which melts the steel's
carbon into the diamond (or vice versa)?

You'll get my diamond plates away from me when you pry them from my
cold, dead hands.

--
"Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it
exists or not, diagnosing it incorrectly, and applying the wrong
remedy." -- Ernest Benn

On Oct 20, 10:47*pm, Vernon wrote:
We are setting up a "family machine shop". *Way back when, during an
ebay buying binge, I bought a nifty old diamond wheel tool grinder.
I'm having a senior moment and can't remember the brand but it is good
old 'murcan iron. *It has a single phase 110v motor.

My understanding is that its purpose on earth is to cut carbide lathe
tools. *Now that we've recently acquired a tiny Enco lathe and mill,
the tool grinder may cease being an objet d'art and resume a practical
life.

We are all clueless, rank amateurs. *So forgive the stupidity of my
questions.

But here's one: *Do we really need this grinder? *I don't know how
long a lathe tool lasts. *Nor do I know how much they cost. *In other
words, since we don't have an industrial shop full of union
machinists, is this tool overkill for our needs? *Or is it a valuable
addition to a small shop?

Thanks,
Vernon

I'm not a real machinist, this is my experienced amateur, prototyper,
occasional toolmaker's opinion.

I have a pedestal grinder set up with one coarse aluminum wheel for
general grinding and HSS tool bits, the other side is a fine silicon
carbide wheel for carbide bits and light finish grinding on steel.
I've seen many grinders like this at machine shop auctions.

Another small bench grinder has one wheel only for TIG tungstens and a
diamond wheel for finishing the edge on carbide.

As mentioned you can't grind much off an insert, but you can take all
the rough cuts and then touch it up for the finish passes.

I use the offset brazed threading bits rather than inserts when I need
to thread close to a shoulder, and the diamond wheel is useful for
keeping these sharp. I'll touch it up with a hand lap or the diamond
grinder before the finish cuts if the threads finish doesn't look
smooth enough after roughing.

Jim Wilkins

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 20 Oct 2008 19:47:36 -0700 (PDT), the infamous Vernon
scrawled the following:


We are setting up a "family machine shop". Way back when, during an
ebay buying binge, I bought a nifty old diamond wheel tool grinder.
I'm having a senior moment and can't remember the brand but it is good
old 'murcan iron. It has a single phase 110v motor.

My understanding is that its purpose on earth is to cut carbide lathe
tools. Now that we've recently acquired a tiny Enco lathe and mill,
the tool grinder may cease being an objet d'art and resume a practical
life.

We are all clueless, rank amateurs. So forgive the stupidity of my
questions.

But here's one: Do we really need this grinder? I don't know how
long a lathe tool lasts. Nor do I know how much they cost. In other
words, since we don't have an industrial shop full of union
machinists, is this tool overkill for our needs? Or is it a valuable
addition to a small shop?


I'm not a machinist, but I can tell you that it's a valuable addition
to the shop. Learn to sharpen your own tools and save tons of time
and a bit of money. If you can adapt it and learn to use it for your
kitchen knives and wifey will love you all the more. What's not to
like?

An Old Tool is a Good Tool!

--
"Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it
exists or not, diagnosing it incorrectly, and applying the wrong
remedy." -- Ernest Benn

I've got a diamond grinder that sounds similar to the OPs and I use it
on carbide and HSS. It is normally referred to as a diamond lap and it
has a very fine wheel and leaves an almost polished finished which is
much finer then any grinding wheel I have used. I don't use it for stock
removal as such just to give the shaped tool a final finish which is
much better than left by my other grinding wheels. It doesn't seem to
have effected the wheel but maybe that is to do with not running the
tool hot.

In article , Vernon wrote:
On Oct 20, 9:47=A0pm, Vernon wrote:
We are setting up a "family machine shop". =A0Way back when, during an
ebay buying binge, I bought a nifty old diamond wheel tool grinder.
I'm having a senior moment and can't remember the brand but it is good
old 'murcan iron. =A0It has a single phase 110v motor.

My understanding is that its purpose on earth is to cut carbide lathe
tools. =A0Now that we've recently acquired a tiny Enco lathe and mill,
the tool grinder may cease being an objet d'art and resume a practical
life.

We are all clueless, rank amateurs. =A0So forgive the stupidity of my
questions.

But here's one: =A0Do we really need this grinder? =A0I don't know how
long a lathe tool lasts. =A0Nor do I know how much they cost. =A0In other
words, since we don't have an industrial shop full of union
machinists, is this tool overkill for our needs? =A0Or is it a valuable
addition to a small shop?

Thanks,
Vernon

To clarify: This is not a fancy multi-head tool maker's grinder. It
is not too different from a bench grinder. However, it has a
vertically spinning diamond wheel, one side of which, has a table that
can be adjusted for angle and distance from the diamond wheel. The
work is fed into the face of the diamond wheel, not the edge. My
understanding is that its exclusive purpose is the grinding of carbide
lathe "inserts".

Sounds like it could be a Glendo. Very nice & very useful. Does it
looks like one of these?

http://www.accu-finish.com

They run at a slow speed, and can be used for steel as well as carbide.
The tool rest mak s it possible to grind special bits to accurate &
repeatable angles.

Doug White

On Mon, 20 Oct 2008 22:58:55 -0700 (PDT), Vernon
wrote:


Don and Gerry. Thanks. That was very helpful. I will attempt to
educate myself as to the differences between applicability of HSS and
carbide as regards anything we are likely to do.
Think of HSS as a cabinet scraper or sandpaper, compared to carbide,
being a bulldozer, in a production operation.

Steel is something I
understand. At least, far better than carbide. So I will look into
replacing the wheel.

V
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

On Tue, 21 Oct 2008 18:45:45 +0100, the infamous David Billington
scrawled the following:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 20 Oct 2008 19:47:36 -0700 (PDT), the infamous Vernon
scrawled the following:


We are setting up a "family machine shop". Way back when, during an
ebay buying binge, I bought a nifty old diamond wheel tool grinder.
I'm having a senior moment and can't remember the brand but it is good
old 'murcan iron. It has a single phase 110v motor.

My understanding is that its purpose on earth is to cut carbide lathe
tools. Now that we've recently acquired a tiny Enco lathe and mill,
the tool grinder may cease being an objet d'art and resume a practical
life.

We are all clueless, rank amateurs. So forgive the stupidity of my
questions.

But here's one: Do we really need this grinder? I don't know how
long a lathe tool lasts. Nor do I know how much they cost. In other
words, since we don't have an industrial shop full of union
machinists, is this tool overkill for our needs? Or is it a valuable
addition to a small shop?


I'm not a machinist, but I can tell you that it's a valuable addition
to the shop. Learn to sharpen your own tools and save tons of time
and a bit of money. If you can adapt it and learn to use it for your
kitchen knives and wifey will love you all the more. What's not to
like?

An Old Tool is a Good Tool!

--
"Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it
exists or not, diagnosing it incorrectly, and applying the wrong
remedy." -- Ernest Benn

I've got a diamond grinder that sounds similar to the OPs and I use it
on carbide and HSS. It is normally referred to as a diamond lap and it
has a very fine wheel and leaves an almost polished finished which is
much finer then any grinding wheel I have used. I don't use it for stock
removal as such just to give the shaped tool a final finish which is
much better than left by my other grinding wheels. It doesn't seem to
have effected the wheel but maybe that is to do with not running the
tool hot.

What's the RPM of the diamond plate? The woodworking models are
slower, but it looks like they've gone to sandpaper disks now. Hmm...

Work Sharp 3000 = 580rpm
Tormek T-7 = 90rpm (vertical, like a standard grinder with a wider
stone. It's the Cadillac of sharpeners @ $600ish.)
Veritas = 650rpm

--
"Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it
exists or not, diagnosing it incorrectly, and applying the wrong
remedy." -- Ernest Benn

On Wed, 22 Oct 2008 00:15:57 GMT, the infamous
(Doug White) scrawled the following:

In article , Vernon wrote:
On Oct 20, 9:47=A0pm, Vernon wrote:
We are setting up a "family machine shop". =A0Way back when, during an
ebay buying binge, I bought a nifty old diamond wheel tool grinder.
I'm having a senior moment and can't remember the brand but it is good
old 'murcan iron. =A0It has a single phase 110v motor.

My understanding is that its purpose on earth is to cut carbide lathe
tools. =A0Now that we've recently acquired a tiny Enco lathe and mill,
the tool grinder may cease being an objet d'art and resume a practical
life.

We are all clueless, rank amateurs. =A0So forgive the stupidity of my
questions.

But here's one: =A0Do we really need this grinder? =A0I don't know how
long a lathe tool lasts. =A0Nor do I know how much they cost. =A0In other
words, since we don't have an industrial shop full of union
machinists, is this tool overkill for our needs? =A0Or is it a valuable
addition to a small shop?

Thanks,
Vernon

To clarify: This is not a fancy multi-head tool maker's grinder. It
is not too different from a bench grinder. However, it has a
vertically spinning diamond wheel, one side of which, has a table that
can be adjusted for angle and distance from the diamond wheel. The
work is fed into the face of the diamond wheel, not the edge. My
understanding is that its exclusive purpose is the grinding of carbide
lathe "inserts".

Sounds like it could be a Glendo. Very nice & very useful. Does it
looks like one of these?

http://www.accu-finish.com

They run at a slow speed, and can be used for steel as well as carbide.
The tool rest mak s it possible to grind special bits to accurate &
repeatable angles.

Hayseuss Crisco! $650 and $1300? If the Tormek is the Cadillac, this
must be the Rolls Royce series.

--
"Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it
exists or not, diagnosing it incorrectly, and applying the wrong
remedy." -- Ernest Benn

On 2008-10-21, Larry Jaques novalidaddress@di wrote:
On 21 Oct 2008 04:58:11 GMT, the infamous "DoN. Nichols"
scrawled the following:

[ ... ]

Note that you should *not* use a diamond wheel on normal steels,
including HSS which represents a lot of lathe bits.

I thought -speed- determined that. I adore static diamond plates (both
EZE Lap and DMT) and sharpen everything I own on them. If his diamond
wheel is geared down like the woodworking sharpeners, it should be
great on HSS, too, shouldn't it?

If the speed is kept slow enough -- and the pressure low enough
as well, you should have no problems. But I don't know the speed of the
tool which he has -- that was not specified in the thread so far AFIKT.

Isn't it heat which melts the steel's
carbon into the diamond (or vice versa)?

The diamond's carbon migrates into the steel, wearing the
diamond quite rapidly, and hardening the steel at the same time. :-)

You'll get my diamond plates away from me when you pry them from my
cold, dead hands.

:-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 21 Oct 2008 18:45:45 +0100, the infamous David Billington
scrawled the following:


Larry Jaques wrote:

On Mon, 20 Oct 2008 19:47:36 -0700 (PDT), the infamous Vernon
scrawled the following:



We are setting up a "family machine shop". Way back when, during an
ebay buying binge, I bought a nifty old diamond wheel tool grinder.
I'm having a senior moment and can't remember the brand but it is good
old 'murcan iron. It has a single phase 110v motor.

My understanding is that its purpose on earth is to cut carbide lathe
tools. Now that we've recently acquired a tiny Enco lathe and mill,
the tool grinder may cease being an objet d'art and resume a practical
life.

We are all clueless, rank amateurs. So forgive the stupidity of my
questions.

But here's one: Do we really need this grinder? I don't know how
long a lathe tool lasts. Nor do I know how much they cost. In other
words, since we don't have an industrial shop full of union
machinists, is this tool overkill for our needs? Or is it a valuable
addition to a small shop?


I'm not a machinist, but I can tell you that it's a valuable addition
to the shop. Learn to sharpen your own tools and save tons of time
and a bit of money. If you can adapt it and learn to use it for your
kitchen knives and wifey will love you all the more. What's not to
like?

An Old Tool is a Good Tool!

--
"Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it
exists or not, diagnosing it incorrectly, and applying the wrong
remedy." -- Ernest Benn


I've got a diamond grinder that sounds similar to the OPs and I use it
on carbide and HSS. It is normally referred to as a diamond lap and it
has a very fine wheel and leaves an almost polished finished which is
much finer then any grinding wheel I have used. I don't use it for stock
removal as such just to give the shaped tool a final finish which is
much better than left by my other grinding wheels. It doesn't seem to
have effected the wheel but maybe that is to do with not running the
tool hot.


What's the RPM of the diamond plate? The woodworking models are
slower, but it looks like they've gone to sandpaper disks now. Hmm...

2850RPM , it's one of these
http://www.assettrack.com/thumbnail/...jhtrimtool.jpg . I don't
know what the grit is and the designation on the spare wheel doesn't
make any sense to me regarding grit size.

Work Sharp 3000 = 580rpm
Tormek T-7 = 90rpm (vertical, like a standard grinder with a wider
stone. It's the Cadillac of sharpeners @ $600ish.)
Veritas = 650rpm

--
"Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it
exists or not, diagnosing it incorrectly, and applying the wrong
remedy." -- Ernest Benn

On Oct 21, 7:12*am, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Mon, 20 Oct 2008 19:47:36 -0700 (PDT), the infamous Vernon
scrawled the following:





We are setting up a "family machine shop". *Way back when, during an
ebay buying binge, I bought a nifty old diamond wheel tool grinder.
I'm having a senior moment and can't remember the brand but it is good
old 'murcan iron. *It has a single phase 110v motor.

My understanding is that its purpose on earth is to cut carbide lathe
tools. *Now that we've recently acquired a tiny Enco lathe and mill,
the tool grinder may cease being an objet d'art and resume a practical
life.

We are all clueless, rank amateurs. *So forgive the stupidity of my
questions.

But here's one: *Do we really need this grinder? *I don't know how
long a lathe tool lasts. *Nor do I know how much they cost. *In other
words, since we don't have an industrial shop full of union
machinists, is this tool overkill for our needs? *Or is it a valuable
addition to a small shop?

I'm not a machinist, but I can tell you that it's a valuable addition
to the shop. *Learn to sharpen your own tools and save tons of time
and a bit of money. If you can adapt it and learn to use it for your
kitchen knives and wifey will love you all the more. *What's not to
like?

An Old Tool is a Good Tool!

--
"Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it
exists or not, diagnosing it incorrectly, and applying the wrong
remedy." * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *-- Ernest Benn- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I suddenly remembered that the brand is "Hammond of Kalamazoo". Here
is an ebay ad for one similar, but not identical, to mine.

V

http://cgi.ebay.com/Hammond-6-Double...2em118Q2el1247

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
snip------

I have a pedestal grinder set up with one coarse aluminum wheel for
general grinding and HSS tool bits, the other side is a fine silicon
carbide wheel for carbide bits and light finish grinding on steel.

Silicon carbide wheels are not intended for use on steel, for the same
reason that diamond is not intended for use on steel. Because the
temperature at the point of contact is high, carbon from the silicon carbide
migrates to the steel. The effect is to dull the grains quickly---so the
wheel glazes and ceases to cut. You apply more pressure, which in turn
creates more heat and accelerates the collapse of the cutting capability of
the wheel.

Aluminum oxide will out-perform silicon carbide, in spite of the fact that
it is much softer. It's the recommended abrasive for grinding steel.

Harold




I've seen many grinders like this at machine shop auctions.

Another small bench grinder has one wheel only for TIG tungstens and a
diamond wheel for finishing the edge on carbide.

As mentioned you can't grind much off an insert, but you can take all
the rough cuts and then touch it up for the finish passes.

I use the offset brazed threading bits rather than inserts when I need
to thread close to a shoulder, and the diamond wheel is useful for
keeping these sharp. I'll touch it up with a hand lap or the diamond
grinder before the finish cuts if the threads finish doesn't look
smooth enough after roughing.

Jim Wilkins

"Vernon" wrote in message
...
snip----

I suddenly remembered that the brand is "Hammond of Kalamazoo". Here
is an ebay ad for one similar, but not identical, to mine.

I'm going to assume that the model you have is also a high speed
machine---where the diamond wheel rotates above a couple hundred RPM. by
the way, Hammond is a well respected builder of diamond grinding machines.
You are fortunate to have one of them.

Do NOT use the diamond wheel on steel of any description. As DoN
mentioned, diamond, at high temperature, is destroyed when used for grinding
steel, which has an affinity for carbon. The steel suffers almost no
consequences, but the cutting edge of the diamond is rounded quickly,
rendering the wheel less capable of cutting. More pressure is applied to
overcome the problem, raising the temperature ever higher, degrading the
diamond more severely. Norton has performed extensive testing and has
documented the failure of diamond when applied to steel at high
temperatures.

When you use the wheel for re-sharpening brazed tooling, insure that you
have used an aluminum oxide wheel to relieve the steel to the side and below
the carbide insert. You can do that easily by grinding a relief angle that
is slightly greater than the desired relief angles of the carbide tool.

Harold

On Oct 22, 2:15*pm, "Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote:
"Vernon" wrote in message

...
snip----

I suddenly remembered that the brand is "Hammond of Kalamazoo". *Here
is an ebay ad for one similar, but not identical, to mine.

I'm going to assume that the model *you have is also a high speed
machine---where the diamond wheel rotates above a couple hundred RPM. *by
the way, Hammond is a well respected builder of diamond grinding machines..
You are fortunate to have one of them.

Do NOT use the diamond wheel on steel of any description. * *As DoN
mentioned, diamond, at high temperature, is destroyed when used for grinding
steel, which has an affinity for carbon. * *The steel suffers almost no
consequences, but the cutting edge of the diamond is rounded quickly,
rendering the wheel less capable of cutting. More pressure is applied to
overcome the problem, raising the temperature ever higher, degrading the
diamond more severely. * Norton has performed extensive testing and has
documented the failure of diamond when applied to steel at high
temperatures.

When you use the wheel for re-sharpening brazed tooling, insure that you
have used an aluminum oxide wheel to relieve the steel to the side and below
the carbide insert. * You can do that easily by grinding a relief angle that
is slightly greater than the desired relief angles of the carbide tool.

Harold

Thank you. Is there any reason not to mount aluminum oxide on one end
and carbide on the other? I think they're 6" wheels. V

On Oct 22, 2:33*pm, wrote:
On Oct 22, 2:15*pm, "Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote:





"Vernon" wrote in message

....
snip----

I suddenly remembered that the brand is "Hammond of Kalamazoo". *Here
is an ebay ad for one similar, but not identical, to mine.

I'm going to assume that the model *you have is also a high speed
machine---where the diamond wheel rotates above a couple hundred RPM. *by
the way, Hammond is a well respected builder of diamond grinding machines.
You are fortunate to have one of them.

Do NOT use the diamond wheel on steel of any description. * *As DoN
mentioned, diamond, at high temperature, is destroyed when used for grinding
steel, which has an affinity for carbon. * *The steel suffers almost no
consequences, but the cutting edge of the diamond is rounded quickly,
rendering the wheel less capable of cutting. More pressure is applied to
overcome the problem, raising the temperature ever higher, degrading the
diamond more severely. * Norton has performed extensive testing and has
documented the failure of diamond when applied to steel at high
temperatures.

When you use the wheel for re-sharpening brazed tooling, insure that you
have used an aluminum oxide wheel to relieve the steel to the side and below
the carbide insert. * You can do that easily by grinding a relief angle that
is slightly greater than the desired relief angles of the carbide tool.

Harold

Thank you. *Is there any reason not to mount aluminum oxide on one end
and carbide on the other? *I think they're 6" wheels. *V- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Er.. diamond wheel. Not carbide. V

On Oct 22, 3:35*pm, wrote:
...
Thank you. *Is there any reason not to mount aluminum oxide on one end
and [diamond wheel] on the other? *I think they're 6" wheels. *V-

IIRC the used Baldor tool grinders I've examined generally had a well-
worn carbide face wheel on the right side and less-used diamond on the
left. I don't recall aluminum wheels on any but freehand grinders,
again with the coarse wheel on the right and fine Al or SiC on the
left. I was never willing to bid anywhere near the price the tool
grinders went for.

I don't want to argue with Harold and/or Susan, but using the SiC
wheel to lightly polish HSS and carefully finish wood tools hasn't
seemed to injure it for carbide lathe bits.

Jim Wilkins

What's that Lassie? You say that Doug White fell down the old
rec.crafts.metalworking mine and will die if we don't mount a rescue
by Wed, 22 Oct 2008 00:15:57 GMT:

Sounds like it could be a Glendo. Very nice & very useful. Does it
looks like one of these?

http://www.accu-finish.com

They run at a slow speed, and can be used for steel as well as carbide.
The tool rest mak s it possible to grind special bits to accurate &
repeatable angles.

We have one of those at work. I use it to make custom tooling from
standard brazed carbide inserts. I also use it to turn standard
inserts into wiper inserts. They are expensive, but worth it for a
job shop.

--

Dan H.

"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message

The steel suffers almost no
consequences, but the cutting edge of the diamond is
rounded quickly,
rendering the wheel less capable of cutting.
Harold


How can this wheel be repaired? Any easy way? Even possible?
phil

"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
...

"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message

The steel suffers almost no
consequences, but the cutting edge of the diamond is
rounded quickly,
rendering the wheel less capable of cutting.
Harold


How can this wheel be repaired? Any easy way? Even possible?
phil

Resinoid bonded diamond wheels are commonly dressed with aluminum oxide
dressing sticks. They're quite fine, something like 180 grit, and are
generally large. You're likely to find one that's one inch square and six
inches long. I've seen them white in color, and also black, which I suspect
is made of silicon carbide. Do a search for dressing sticks for diamond
wheels. Major machine shop supply houses sell them.

They restore the wheel readily, but you lose a little of the wheel in the
process. Use it sparingly, and avoid grinding steel so you get maximum life
from the wheel. A small portion of the bonding agent is removed, freeing
the dulled diamond bits and exposing new ones. There is little you can do
to restore the dulled diamond bits aside from removing them.

A decent wheel, 100% concentration and 1/8" thickness should last a person
for a life-time, assuming it's used in the hobby shop. They last several
years when worked commercially, assuming they're well cared for.

Harold

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
On Oct 22, 3:35 pm, wrote:
...
Thank you. Is there any reason not to mount aluminum oxide on one end
and [diamond wheel] on the other? I think they're 6" wheels. V-

IIRC the used Baldor tool grinders I've examined generally had a well-
worn carbide face wheel on the right side and less-used diamond on the
left. I don't recall aluminum wheels on any but freehand grinders,
again with the coarse wheel on the right and fine Al or SiC on the
left. I was never willing to bid anywhere near the price the tool
grinders went for.

I don't want to argue with Harold and/or Susan, but using the SiC
wheel to lightly polish HSS and carefully finish wood tools hasn't
seemed to injure it for carbide lathe bits.

Jim Wilkins


It isn't a matter of injuring the wheel. It can be dressed to restore it's
cutting capabilities. It's a matter of understanding that the wheel is
not cutting properly. Said another way, it's bad practice. On the other
hand, it's your wheel and your material -----so if you feel it's serving a
purpose that couldn't be better served by applying what is considered better
practice, by all means continue the course.

My purpose in commenting is to alert readers that silicon carbide wheels are
not advised for steel. They perform poorly when so applied, but if you
don't know the first thing about grinding, you likely don't understand
they're not working properly.

Were you to apply the wheel to carbon steel, it would border on the
impossible to keep the wheel from drawing the hardness. You're fortunate
to be grinding on HSS, which is difficult to anneal.

I still don't recommend the process.

Harold

"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message
"Phil Kangas" wrote in message

"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message

The steel suffers almost no
consequences, but the cutting edge of the diamond is
rounded quickly,
rendering the wheel less capable of cutting.
Harold


How can this wheel be repaired? Any easy way? Even
possible?
phil

Resinoid bonded diamond wheels are commonly dressed with
aluminum oxide
dressing sticks. They're quite fine, something like 180
grit, and are
generally large. You're likely to find one that's one
inch square and six
inches long. I've seen them white in color, and also
black, which I suspect
is made of silicon carbide. Do a search for dressing
sticks for diamond
wheels. Major machine shop supply houses sell them.

They restore the wheel readily, but you lose a little of
the wheel in the
process. Use it sparingly, and avoid grinding steel so
you get maximum life
from the wheel. A small portion of the bonding agent is
removed, freeing
the dulled diamond bits and exposing new ones. There is
little you can do
to restore the dulled diamond bits aside from removing
them.

A decent wheel, 100% concentration and 1/8" thickness
should last a person
for a life-time, assuming it's used in the hobby shop.
They last several
years when worked commercially, assuming they're well
cared for.

Harold


Thanks Harold. I have one of these sticks and was wondering
if they were
really the right thing to use. I've caught visitors grinding
their pocket
knives on it while I was welding something for them. Spank
spank! Grrrrr....
phil

On Oct 22, 10:28*pm, "Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote:
...
Were you to apply the wheel to carbon steel, it would border on the
impossible to keep the wheel from drawing the hardness. * You're fortunate
to be grinding on HSS, which is difficult to anneal.

I still don't recommend the process.

Harold

I can grind a plane blade or wood chisel on it, just to finish the
edge after shaping them on the A36 wheel, without burning. Maybe it
works because I grind steel on SiC so rarely, lightly and briefly and
the usual carbide lathe bits maintain its condition.

If I had the space for another grinder I wouldn't do it. This grinder
is IN the doorway to the shop, pushed back against the door frame.

Jim Wilkins

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
On Oct 22, 10:28 pm, "Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote:
...
Were you to apply the wheel to carbon steel, it would border on the
impossible to keep the wheel from drawing the hardness. You're fortunate
to be grinding on HSS, which is difficult to anneal.

I still don't recommend the process.

Harold

I can grind a plane blade or wood chisel on it, just to finish the
edge after shaping them on the A36 wheel, without burning. Maybe it
works because I grind steel on SiC so rarely, lightly and briefly and
the usual carbide lathe bits maintain its condition.


***That's entirely possible. If you use it very briefly, it will act more
as a burnishing tool than a grinder. The surface finish will not be ragged
because it doesn't cut well. The dulling comes almost instantly----very
evident if you're trying a cut on a surface grinder, for example. If you
can keep the heat down, I sure as hell don't see a lot wrong with the
operation. I commend you for your ability----it's not easy even with an
aluminum oxide wheel. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Harold

"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
...
snip----

Thanks Harold. I have one of these sticks and was wondering
if they were
really the right thing to use.

I always pick up mine with trepidation, knowing full well it's taking life
out of the wheel.

Contrary to what you might expect, the diamond wheel cuts the dressing stick
quite rapidly. After all, it is diamond. It takes only a brief encounter to
restore the wheel surface, so go sparingly and use light pressure, and try
to present a broad surface to the wheel to avoid cutting a groove.

Once you've used it, you can clearly see the benefit. The ability of the
wheel to perform undergoes a shocking transformation. Just rein in your
desires to do it often. Run coolant and keep the wheel surface clean and
free of contact with steel and you don't have to. A loaded wheel is no
better than a dull one.

Harold

"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message
"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
snip----

Thanks Harold. I have one of these sticks and was
wondering
if they were
really the right thing to use.

I always pick up mine with trepidation, knowing full well
it's taking life
out of the wheel.

Contrary to what you might expect, the diamond wheel cuts
the dressing stick
quite rapidly. After all, it is diamond. It takes only a
brief encounter to
restore the wheel surface, so go sparingly and use light
pressure, and try
to present a broad surface to the wheel to avoid cutting a
groove.

Once you've used it, you can clearly see the benefit.
The ability of the
wheel to perform undergoes a shocking transformation.
Just rein in your
desires to do it often. Run coolant and keep the wheel
surface clean and
free of contact with steel and you don't have to. A
loaded wheel is no
better than a dull one.

Harold



Oh man, good thing you weren't here yesterday when I
'cleaned' mine,
you would've kicked my butt! harhar.... I'll go more lightly
next time, eih?
I'm old but I can still learn this. I'll be 62 next April
and retired then.
Gonna still chase this hobby though, so much fun!!
phil

On Fri, 24 Oct 2008 08:04:38 GMT, "Harold and Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
On Oct 22, 10:28 pm, "Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote:
...
Were you to apply the wheel to carbon steel, it would border on the
impossible to keep the wheel from drawing the hardness. You're fortunate
to be grinding on HSS, which is difficult to anneal.

I still don't recommend the process.

Harold

I can grind a plane blade or wood chisel on it, just to finish the
edge after shaping them on the A36 wheel, without burning. Maybe it
works because I grind steel on SiC so rarely, lightly and briefly and
the usual carbide lathe bits maintain its condition.


***That's entirely possible. If you use it very briefly, it will act more
as a burnishing tool than a grinder. The surface finish will not be ragged
because it doesn't cut well. The dulling comes almost instantly----very
evident if you're trying a cut on a surface grinder, for example. If you
can keep the heat down, I sure as hell don't see a lot wrong with the
operation. I commend you for your ability----it's not easy even with an
aluminum oxide wheel. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Harold

Come to think about it, Drill Doctor uses a diamond wheel quite
successfully.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
...

"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message
"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
snip----

Thanks Harold. I have one of these sticks and was
wondering
if they were
really the right thing to use.

I always pick up mine with trepidation, knowing full well
it's taking life
out of the wheel.

Contrary to what you might expect, the diamond wheel cuts
the dressing stick
quite rapidly. After all, it is diamond. It takes only a
brief encounter to
restore the wheel surface, so go sparingly and use light
pressure, and try
to present a broad surface to the wheel to avoid cutting a
groove.

Once you've used it, you can clearly see the benefit.
The ability of the
wheel to perform undergoes a shocking transformation.
Just rein in your
desires to do it often. Run coolant and keep the wheel
surface clean and
free of contact with steel and you don't have to. A
loaded wheel is no
better than a dull one.

Harold



Oh man, good thing you weren't here yesterday when I
'cleaned' mine,
you would've kicked my butt! harhar.... I'll go more lightly
next time, eih?
I'm old but I can still learn this. I'll be 62 next April
and retired then.
Gonna still chase this hobby though, so much fun!!
phil



Chuckle!

Old, eh? I've been retired since '94, albeit at an early age. I'm 69 now
and feel every damned one of those years.

Harold

On 2008-10-25, Gerald Miller wrote:
Come to think about it, Drill Doctor uses a diamond wheel quite
successfully.

Actually, the wheel in Drill Doctor is not diamond, I believe that it
is CBN (Carbon Boron Nitride). The reason is exactly what Harold
stated.

I do, however, have a diamond manual knife sharpener that works
beautifully, I owned it for many years. The difference is that it is a
slow speed, manual process, without heat.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

On Fri, 24 Oct 2008 21:36:58 -0500, Ignoramus18654
wrote:

On 2008-10-25, Gerald Miller wrote:
Come to think about it, Drill Doctor uses a diamond wheel quite
successfully.

Actually, the wheel in Drill Doctor is not diamond, I believe that it
is CBN (Carbon Boron Nitride). The reason is exactly what Harold
stated.

Somehow I got the impression it was diamond, probably from the
discussion here several years back when they were first introduced.
Whatever it is, I am quite happy with mine.

I do, however, have a diamond manual knife sharpener that works
beautifully, I owned it for many years. The difference is that it is a
slow speed, manual process, without heat.
I have several diamond plate sharpeners that I haven't used all that
much - too much time on the computer, not enough time being creative.
At least that's what SWMBO says.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

On Sat, 25 Oct 2008 02:19:48 GMT, "Harold and Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
...

"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message
"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
snip----

Thanks Harold. I have one of these sticks and was
wondering
if they were
really the right thing to use.

I always pick up mine with trepidation, knowing full well
it's taking life
out of the wheel.

Contrary to what you might expect, the diamond wheel cuts
the dressing stick
quite rapidly. After all, it is diamond. It takes only a
brief encounter to
restore the wheel surface, so go sparingly and use light
pressure, and try
to present a broad surface to the wheel to avoid cutting a
groove.

Once you've used it, you can clearly see the benefit.
The ability of the
wheel to perform undergoes a shocking transformation.
Just rein in your
desires to do it often. Run coolant and keep the wheel
surface clean and
free of contact with steel and you don't have to. A
loaded wheel is no
better than a dull one.

Harold



Oh man, good thing you weren't here yesterday when I
'cleaned' mine,
you would've kicked my butt! harhar.... I'll go more lightly
next time, eih?
I'm old but I can still learn this. I'll be 62 next April
and retired then.
Gonna still chase this hobby though, so much fun!!
phil



Chuckle!

Old, eh? I've been retired since '94, albeit at an early age. I'm 69 now
and feel every damned one of those years.

Harold

Copy cat! You're my twin 9 May '39
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

On 2008-10-25, Gerald Miller wrote:
On Fri, 24 Oct 2008 21:36:58 -0500, Ignoramus18654
wrote:

On 2008-10-25, Gerald Miller wrote:
Come to think about it, Drill Doctor uses a diamond wheel quite
successfully.

Actually, the wheel in Drill Doctor is not diamond, I believe that it
is CBN (Carbon Boron Nitride). The reason is exactly what Harold
stated.

Somehow I got the impression it was diamond, probably from the
discussion here several years back when they were first introduced.
Whatever it is, I am quite happy with mine.

I am very happy with mine, that is, since I understood how to use it.

I do, however, have a diamond manual knife sharpener that works
beautifully, I owned it for many years. The difference is that it is a
slow speed, manual process, without heat.
I have several diamond plate sharpeners that I haven't used all that
much - too much time on the computer, not enough time being creative.
At least that's what SWMBO says.

She might mean by that something other than pulling the knife back and
forth on the sharpening stone.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

"Gerald Miller" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 25 Oct 2008 02:19:48 GMT, "Harold and Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
...

"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message
"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
snip----

Thanks Harold. I have one of these sticks and was
wondering
if they were
really the right thing to use.

I always pick up mine with trepidation, knowing full well
it's taking life
out of the wheel.

Contrary to what you might expect, the diamond wheel cuts
the dressing stick
quite rapidly. After all, it is diamond. It takes only a
brief encounter to
restore the wheel surface, so go sparingly and use light
pressure, and try
to present a broad surface to the wheel to avoid cutting a
groove.

Once you've used it, you can clearly see the benefit.
The ability of the
wheel to perform undergoes a shocking transformation.
Just rein in your
desires to do it often. Run coolant and keep the wheel
surface clean and
free of contact with steel and you don't have to. A
loaded wheel is no
better than a dull one.

Harold



Oh man, good thing you weren't here yesterday when I
'cleaned' mine,
you would've kicked my butt! harhar.... I'll go more lightly
next time, eih?
I'm old but I can still learn this. I'll be 62 next April
and retired then.
Gonna still chase this hobby though, so much fun!!
phil



Chuckle!

Old, eh? I've been retired since '94, albeit at an early age. I'm 69 now
and feel every damned one of those years.

Harold

Copy cat! You're my twin 9 May '39
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

The hell you say! July 14 for me.

How you holding up, Gerry?

Harold

On Sat, 25 Oct 2008 07:31:57 GMT, "Harold and Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"Gerald Miller" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 25 Oct 2008 02:19:48 GMT, "Harold and Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
...

"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message
"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
snip----

Thanks Harold. I have one of these sticks and was
wondering
if they were
really the right thing to use.

I always pick up mine with trepidation, knowing full well
it's taking life
out of the wheel.

Contrary to what you might expect, the diamond wheel cuts
the dressing stick
quite rapidly. After all, it is diamond. It takes only a
brief encounter to
restore the wheel surface, so go sparingly and use light
pressure, and try
to present a broad surface to the wheel to avoid cutting a
groove.

Once you've used it, you can clearly see the benefit.
The ability of the
wheel to perform undergoes a shocking transformation.
Just rein in your
desires to do it often. Run coolant and keep the wheel
surface clean and
free of contact with steel and you don't have to. A
loaded wheel is no
better than a dull one.

Harold



Oh man, good thing you weren't here yesterday when I
'cleaned' mine,
you would've kicked my butt! harhar.... I'll go more lightly
next time, eih?
I'm old but I can still learn this. I'll be 62 next April
and retired then.
Gonna still chase this hobby though, so much fun!!
phil



Chuckle!

Old, eh? I've been retired since '94, albeit at an early age. I'm 69 now
and feel every damned one of those years.

Harold

Copy cat! You're my twin 9 May '39
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

The hell you say! July 14 for me.

How you holding up, Gerry?

Harold

Well, you're 11 yrs. older than me, but almost 20 younger than Dad.
He's finally slowing down. Transient ischemic attacks are blowing
little chunks of memory, but he still gets outside to cut limbs, kill
weeds, and mow.

Pete Keillor