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Default Hardinge HLV-H vs. Monarch 10EE

Not at all an idle question. Actually highly relevant.

Which one is better? Karl, any idea? Gunner? Anyone else can compare
them? Assume both lathes are in same condition.

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Default Hardinge HLV-H vs. Monarch 10EE

On Mon, 18 Aug 2008 21:20:02 -0500, Ignoramus19239
wrote:

Not at all an idle question. Actually highly relevant.

Which one is better? Karl, any idea? Gunner? Anyone else can compare
them? Assume both lathes are in same condition.


Ive used both. I own a HLV-H.

The 10EE may use one of the odd tube drives that have confused even
the best EEs

The Hardinge uses a vari drive

Probably the 10EE is the better lathe by a slim margin, due to more
powerful motors and being a heavier machine. On the other hand, you
can call Hardinge and buy parts right off the shelf. Just use your
first born as collaterl

Monarch parts require your first born and your left testicle.

Ive no desire for a 10EE as the HLV-H does everything I want it to
do..with the exception of being able to thread anything larger than an
11 TPI thread. The Monarch will do that and more course ones IRRC.

My opinion is worth every kopeck you paid for it.


Gunner

The hottest places in hell are reserved for those
who in times of great moral crisis maintain their neutrality",
John F. Kennedy.
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Default Hardinge HLV-H vs. Monarch 10EE

....
Which one is better? Karl, any idea? Gunner? Anyone else can compare
them? Assume both lathes are in same condition.


Ive used both. I own a HLV-H.

The 10EE may use one of the odd tube drives that have confused even
the best EEs

The Hardinge uses a vari drive

Probably the 10EE is the better lathe by a slim margin, due to more
powerful motors and being a heavier machine. On the other hand, you
can call Hardinge and buy parts right off the shelf. Just use your
first born as collaterl

Monarch parts require your first born and your left testicle.


What Gunner said...

If you're looking at an older 10EE, consider the drive to be trash. Replace
it with a VFD and three phase motor and you'll have a wonderful machine.

10EEs, used, bring a way lower price than the hardinge. Folks afraid of the
drive I believe. If you're not afraid of the drive swap, the 10EE is a far
better value for an HSM type.

When I bought my 10EE, I replaced minor items like way wipers, little
bearings in the cariage, a handle, and a couple other minor things. I almost
bought the lathe again!!

WARNING: If you use either machine, you'll not be able to go back.

Karl



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Default Hardinge HLV-H vs. Monarch 10EE

On 2008-08-19, Karl Townsend wrote:
...
Which one is better? Karl, any idea? Gunner? Anyone else can compare
them? Assume both lathes are in same condition.


Ive used both. I own a HLV-H.

The 10EE may use one of the odd tube drives that have confused even
the best EEs

The Hardinge uses a vari drive

Probably the 10EE is the better lathe by a slim margin, due to more
powerful motors and being a heavier machine. On the other hand, you
can call Hardinge and buy parts right off the shelf. Just use your
first born as collaterl

Monarch parts require your first born and your left testicle.


What Gunner said...

If you're looking at an older 10EE, consider the drive to be trash. Replace
it with a VFD and three phase motor and you'll have a wonderful machine.

10EEs, used, bring a way lower price than the hardinge. Folks afraid of the
drive I believe. If you're not afraid of the drive swap, the 10EE is a far
better value for an HSM type.


I am not afraid of drive swap, e.g put in a 5 HP motor with a drive,
is not a problem if a standard motor would fit. I believe that I have
a 184T inverter duty 5 HP motor that I could use.

When I bought my 10EE, I replaced minor items like way wipers, little
bearings in the cariage, a handle, and a couple other minor things. I almost
bought the lathe again!!

WARNING: If you use either machine, you'll not be able to go back.


The lathe in question is a 10EE with a 30 inch distance between
centers (elongated bed). Would you say thatt $1,100 would be a sane
amount to bid (liquidation auction). I am a little afraid of the
weight.

I am looking to replace my clausing with something more
accurate. There are spome HLV-H and a 10EE coming up for sale. Hence
the question.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/
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Default Hardinge HLV-H vs. Monarch 10EE

On Aug 19, 7:24*am, Ignoramus31289 ignoramus31...@NOSPAM.
31289.invalid wrote:
On 2008-08-19, Karl Townsend wrote:



...
Which one is better? Karl, any idea? Gunner? Anyone else can compare
them? Assume both lathes are in same condition.


Ive used both. *I own a HLV-H.


The 10EE may use one of the odd tube drives that have confused even
the best EEs


The Hardinge uses a vari drive


Probably the 10EE is the better lathe by a slim margin, due to more
powerful motors and being a heavier machine. On the other hand, you
can call Hardinge and buy parts right off the shelf. Just use your
first born as collaterl


Monarch parts require your first born and your left testicle.


What Gunner said...


If you're looking at an older 10EE, consider the drive to be trash. Replace
it with a VFD and three phase motor and you'll have a wonderful machine..


10EEs, used, bring a way lower price than the hardinge. Folks afraid of the
drive I believe. If you're not afraid of the drive swap, the 10EE is a far
better value for an HSM type.


I am not afraid of drive swap, e.g put in a 5 HP motor with a drive,
is not a problem if a standard motor would fit. I believe that I have
a 184T inverter duty 5 HP motor that I could use.

When I bought my 10EE, I replaced minor items like way wipers, little
bearings in the cariage, a handle, and a couple other minor things. I almost
bought the lathe again!!


WARNING: If you use either machine, you'll not be able to go back.


The lathe in question is a 10EE with a 30 inch distance between
centers (elongated bed). Would you say thatt $1,100 would be a sane
amount to bid (liquidation auction). I am a little afraid of the
weight.

I am looking to replace my clausing with something more
accurate. There are spome HLV-H and a 10EE coming up for sale. Hence
the question.

--
* *Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
* * * to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
* * * *from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
* * * * *more readers you will need to find a different means of
* * * * * * * * * * * *posting on Usenet.
* * * * * * * * * *http://improve-usenet.org/


Any tooling, or a bare machine? If it comes with any tooling at all,
that is a decent price(bid). The extended bed is a unique (not really
rare) option, that might be nice.

I went from a SB9 to a 10EE, and wow what a difference!!! Certain odd
repair jobs I used to just hate having to try to tackle are no big
deal any more. Interrupted cuts being one. The quality of my surface
finish is markedly better. There is a lot of cast iron in the 10EE
and it's there for a reason. It is a pain to move, but once you park
it, it's staying put. You won't regret it.

I can't speak for a Hardinge HLV-H, as I have never touched one, but
the 10EE is a hell of a nice machine.

JW


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Default Hardinge HLV-H vs. Monarch 10EE


I am not afraid of drive swap, e.g put in a 5 HP motor with a drive,
is not a problem if a standard motor would fit. I believe that I have
a 184T inverter duty 5 HP motor that I could use.


You'll need to keep the back gear with 5 hp. If I were to do it over, I'd
sell the 5hp. DC motor and back gear. They go well on eBay. Use the funds to
buy a 10 hp VFD and motor. then you got enough torque to not need a back
gear. That's how the new 10EEs do it.

The lathe in question is a 10EE with a 30 inch distance between
centers (elongated bed). Would you say thatt $1,100 would be a sane
amount to bid (liquidation auction). I am a little afraid of the
weight.


Condition is EVERYTHING. Parts are RIDICULOUS on this machine. That said,
I'd pay more than that for a 30 inch unit. In my case I'd take parts off my
machine to upgrade this one. let me know if you don't want it so I can bid.
I'll sell you my parted out unit cheap VBG

Karl


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Default Hardinge HLV-H vs. Monarch 10EE

On Tue, 19 Aug 2008 07:24:11 -0500, Ignoramus31289
wrote:


When I bought my 10EE, I replaced minor items like way wipers, little
bearings in the cariage, a handle, and a couple other minor things. I almost
bought the lathe again!!

WARNING: If you use either machine, you'll not be able to go back.


The lathe in question is a 10EE with a 30 inch distance between
centers (elongated bed). Would you say thatt $1,100 would be a sane
amount to bid (liquidation auction). I am a little afraid of the
weight.


Glory in the weight. That means its rigid, will chatter less under a
heavy cut and will run smoothly.

A 30"??? Jump the **** on it NOW!!

And GLOAT all the way home and till you cross over.

(assuming the ways are not swaybacked and **** is busted)

I am looking to replace my clausing with something more
accurate. There are spome HLV-H and a 10EE coming up for sale. Hence
the question.



Can you test them under power and actually make chips?

At $1100...buy the damned thing..there is no way you can loose money
on it if it makes chips.

Gunner

The hottest places in hell are reserved for those
who in times of great moral crisis maintain their neutrality",
John F. Kennedy.
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