I bought a new trailer a few days ago. Got it home. Put the crank up wheel
on it. Loaded my two ATVs. One is 500#, and the other is about 650#. The
trailer weighs 500#. The trailer has one axle rated at 3,000#.

I took a scale and measured the tongue weight. It read 185#. The coupler
said maximum tongue weight 300#. 2" ball into a class C receiver hitch.
(the kind with the two inch square receiver mounted on a mongo frame, and
then to the Motorhome frame.

If you are experienced with trailers, please make your comments on these
figures. I figure I am well within limits, even with the slightly cheesy
looking 3" channel tongue. Which, by the way, if it gives me any trouble
will be replaced with a .120" wall thickness member.

We will be going Friday to an area west of Tonopah, Nevada, for some ATV
riding, and researching B-25 crash sites from WW2. I guess I will get a
good idea on that trip. Just wanted to bounce the numbers off someone who
might know.

Supposed to snow in that area Saturday............ sigh .........

Steve

On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 20:39:02 -0800, "SteveB"
wrote:

I bought a new trailer a few days ago. Got it home. Put the crank up wheel
on it. Loaded my two ATVs. One is 500#, and the other is about 650#. The
trailer weighs 500#. The trailer has one axle rated at 3,000#.

I took a scale and measured the tongue weight. It read 185#. The coupler
said maximum tongue weight 300#. 2" ball into a class C receiver hitch.
(the kind with the two inch square receiver mounted on a mongo frame, and
then to the Motorhome frame.

If you are experienced with trailers, please make your comments on these
figures. I figure I am well within limits, even with the slightly cheesy
looking 3" channel tongue. Which, by the way, if it gives me any trouble
will be replaced with a .120" wall thickness member.

We will be going Friday to an area west of Tonopah, Nevada, for some ATV
riding, and researching B-25 crash sites from WW2. I guess I will get a
good idea on that trip. Just wanted to bounce the numbers off someone who
might know.

Supposed to snow in that area Saturday............ sigh .........

You should be in good shape. Usual rule of thumb is to have tongue
weight be 10% to 15% of the load weight. The class C hitch is well
within ratings. You probably know that your stopping distance will
increase with the load, so keep that in mind while driving.

Since it's a new trailer, stop after the first 30 minutes or so and
check the hub temps. They can be warm but should not be hot. Also
jiggle the wheels sideways checking for play. Sometimes new bearings
are not adjusted properly or might "seat" a little after running and
warming up a bit. You'll want to carry a wrench that fits the
spindle nut and a pair of visegrips or pliers for the cotter key.
Channel locks are good for getting the hub cover out without barfing
it up. Also check the insides of the wheels for grease. There
shouldn't be any, but I've had new seals that leaked.

If the tail/turn lights are not LED's, you may as well figure out how
to change them right now and get some spares. Trailer lights are
notoriously unreliable. On some trailers you must change out the
whole light assy, not just the bulb. That's actually not a bad
thing. They're sealed units so moisture won't corrode connector
contacts, and they're not very expensive. If the bulbs are
replacable, they're probably the common 1157.

For remote areas, I would carry a complete set of spare bearings and
races and a tub or tube of wheelbearing grease. Probably don't need
that yet with a new trailer, but it won't always be new. I see LOTS
of boat trailers on the side of the road every year on fishing opener
in MN. You can field-strip and repair a trailer wheel in a few
minutes at the side of the road i f you have the parts. If you don't
and you're 100 miles from nowhere on Sunday, you in a heap o' trouble.

Sounds plenty strong enough. Load it with 45% of the weight on one wheel,
45% on the other wheel and 10% on the ball and it will track best. Don't
tie down your machines sufficient to hold them if you drive carefully,
tie them down sufficiently strong to hold them if you get rammed unexpectedly
at 45mph. If you prepare for the worst case you won't get sued for negligence.
(I used to own a flatbed and learned a little bit about rigging for the
highways as it pertains to the legal system in this country.) - GWE

SteveB wrote:
I bought a new trailer a few days ago. Got it home. Put the crank up wheel
on it. Loaded my two ATVs. One is 500#, and the other is about 650#. The
trailer weighs 500#. The trailer has one axle rated at 3,000#.

I took a scale and measured the tongue weight. It read 185#. The coupler
said maximum tongue weight 300#. 2" ball into a class C receiver hitch.
(the kind with the two inch square receiver mounted on a mongo frame, and
then to the Motorhome frame.

If you are experienced with trailers, please make your comments on these
figures. I figure I am well within limits, even with the slightly cheesy
looking 3" channel tongue. Which, by the way, if it gives me any trouble
will be replaced with a .120" wall thickness member.

We will be going Friday to an area west of Tonopah, Nevada, for some ATV
riding, and researching B-25 crash sites from WW2. I guess I will get a
good idea on that trip. Just wanted to bounce the numbers off someone who
might know.

Supposed to snow in that area Saturday............ sigh .........

Steve

On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 23:21:42 -0600, Don Foreman
wrote:

On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 20:39:02 -0800, "SteveB"
wrote:

I bought a new trailer a few days ago. Got it home. Put the crank up wheel
on it. Loaded my two ATVs. One is 500#, and the other is about 650#. The
trailer weighs 500#. The trailer has one axle rated at 3,000#.

I took a scale and measured the tongue weight. It read 185#. The coupler
said maximum tongue weight 300#. 2" ball into a class C receiver hitch.
(the kind with the two inch square receiver mounted on a mongo frame, and
then to the Motorhome frame.

If you are experienced with trailers, please make your comments on these
figures. I figure I am well within limits, even with the slightly cheesy
looking 3" channel tongue. Which, by the way, if it gives me any trouble
will be replaced with a .120" wall thickness member.

We will be going Friday to an area west of Tonopah, Nevada, for some ATV
riding, and researching B-25 crash sites from WW2. I guess I will get a
good idea on that trip. Just wanted to bounce the numbers off someone who
might know.

Supposed to snow in that area Saturday............ sigh .........


I didn't mention the bearing adjustment drill in last post.

With wheel off ground, tighten the spindle nut until some contiinued
resistance to rotation of the wheel is felt while rotating the wheel
several turns with each bump of the wrench. Then loosen the
spindle nut clear free, snug it up one castellation past the touch
point and replace the cotter key. Check after another 100 miles. If
they're running a bit warm, back it off one castellation.

There is a long stretch of stripmall parkinglot adjacent to Hwy 65 in
Mora, MN, which is about an hour north of the Twin Cities. I often
see the prudent checking their boat trailer hubs there on a quick
walkabout. These are the guys I won't see with sheared spindles and
long faces further north.

Sounds like you could use a little more weight on the tongue. The tow
vehicle should as a general rule carry from 1/4 to 1/3 of the gross
weight, otherwise the trailer can start fishtailing on the road. Give
it a test spin loaded and do some controlled panic stops and sharp
turns as well as pulling at highway speed. You will very quickly find
out if the trailer is unstable.
Bugs

Bugs, you should qualify your advice.

In my case a pull a trailer carrying a 3,200-lb sailboat (combined boat
and trailer weight 4,100-lbs). The optimum tongue loading on the
pulling vehicle (in my case a Ford Bronco) is around 600-lbs to
750-lbs, not the 1/4 to 1/3 of gross weight that you are suggesting.

If you are getting anywhere between 1/4 to 1/3 gross trailer weight on
the tongue, your load on the trailer is improperly balanced and you
would quickly get into serious trouble if you attempted to tow a heavy
trailer load so configured unless you were towing it with an F450!


Harry C.

Regarding your last paragraph, doesn't everyone do that?

When towing my 23' Compac sailboat, I make a point to stop and check
the four hub temperatures every 50-miles or so. I also make a point to
carry a grease gun, spare wheel, and small, Sears hydraulic floor jack
in my trunk just in case. I'm also planning to add a spare set of wheel
bearings to this list, based on your suggestion.

To your advice I would add, if you launch a boat trailer in salt water,
be sure to first equip the wheel bearings with grease pressurized
waterproof seals (I don't recall their brand name, but every marine
dealer sells them). Then pressurize them with your grease gun prior to
every launch. My wheel bearings are vintage 1981, but because of this
care are still going strong after probably 200-launches and and
estimated 50,000-road miles.!
Harry C.

I disagree vehemently. Negative tongue weight will make a trailer
fishtail. I try to keep mine as light as possible while still
providing positive tongue weight. Most of my trailers are double
and triple axle which may make some difference, but I would still
keep a single axle around 500 pounds max. Trailers should be
designed about 60% tongue, 40% behind the axle, the rest of the
balance comes from how you load the trailer.

(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Bugs" wrote in message
oups.com...
Sounds like you could use a little more weight on the tongue.
The tow
vehicle should as a general rule carry from 1/4 to 1/3 of the
gross
weight, otherwise the trailer can start fishtailing on the road.
Give
it a test spin loaded and do some controlled panic stops and
sharp
turns as well as pulling at highway speed. You will very quickly
find
out if the trailer is unstable.
Bugs

"DanG" wrote in message
news:ko4_d.39213$3z.6489@okepread03...
I disagree vehemently. Negative tongue weight will make a trailer
fishtail. I try to keep mine as light as possible while still providing
positive tongue weight. Most of my trailers are double and triple axle
which may make some difference, but I would still keep a single axle around
500 pounds max. Trailers should be designed about 60% tongue, 40% behind
the axle, the rest of the balance comes from how you load the trailer.

(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)



Huh?

http://www.enjoythedrive.com/glossary/parse.asp?id=706

This suggests that your tongue weight is 10-15% of the gross.

STeve

Also check out Sherline
http://www.sherline.com/lmbook.htm

RellikJM
"SteveB" wrote in message
news:2B4_d.7175$ZE5.6124@fed1read03...

"DanG" wrote in message
news:ko4_d.39213$3z.6489@okepread03...
I disagree vehemently. Negative tongue weight will make a trailer
fishtail. I try to keep mine as light as possible while still providing
positive tongue weight. Most of my trailers are double and triple axle
which may make some difference, but I would still keep a single axle
around 500 pounds max. Trailers should be designed about 60% tongue, 40%
behind the axle, the rest of the balance comes from how you load the
trailer.

(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)



Huh?

http://www.enjoythedrive.com/glossary/parse.asp?id=706

This suggests that your tongue weight is 10-15% of the gross.

STeve

On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 20:39:02 -0800, "SteveB"
wrote:

I bought a new trailer a few days ago. Got it home. Put the crank up wheel
on it. Loaded my two ATVs. One is 500#, and the other is about 650#. The
trailer weighs 500#. The trailer has one axle rated at 3,000#.

I took a scale and measured the tongue weight. It read 185#. The coupler
said maximum tongue weight 300#. 2" ball into a class C receiver hitch.
(the kind with the two inch square receiver mounted on a mongo frame, and
then to the Motorhome frame.

You want 10% to 15% tongue weight. In your case, you want to be able
to barely pick it up off the ground as a rough check. With ATV's or a
car on the trailer, it's very easy to shift the load fore and aft
before final tie-down to get it balanced right.

Which brings up tie-downs: Take whatever straps and anchor points
that you think is adequate - and double it. Hell, triple it. "Too
much" is just about right...

Weld big anchor loops or D-rings along the trailer rails, and get
the big ratchet straps. Remember that the ratings of the straps are
for /static/ loads - you are securing a /dynamic/ load, often at an
oblique angle that acts as a lever, and the force applied to those
straps quickly multiplies.

You REALLY don't want to make an emergency lane change and dump the
bikes out on the road. Or hit the brakes hard to avoid a wreck and
see your ATV's in the rear view mirror getting rapidly closer, I
Guarantee that'll ruin your whole week...
..
If you are experienced with trailers, please make your comments on these
figures. I figure I am well within limits, even with the slightly cheesy
looking 3" channel tongue. Which, by the way, if it gives me any trouble
will be replaced with a .120" wall thickness member.

We will be going Friday to an area west of Tonopah, Nevada, for some ATV
riding, and researching B-25 crash sites from WW2. I guess I will get a
good idea on that trip. Just wanted to bounce the numbers off someone who
might know.

And if you have problems stopping with the extra weight, see if the
axle has a brake flange on it - 4 holes in a square behind the grease
seal area. If it does, it'll be easy to retrofit the trailer with
brakes. Go for surge brakes, and it'll also give you a good reason to
rework the tongue so you can mount the surge coupler.

Second the idea to carry a set of wheel bearings. And make sure you
have a spare tire and rim with you that fits the trailer (get a
take-off at the junkyard), and a way to jack up the trailer if the car
jack won't work - try it now.

-- Bruce --
--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.

I tow with a Dodge 3500 dually diesel and a fifth wheel. It carries
about 3500 lbs. on the truck axle with a 13.500 GVW trailer. I have
seen too many big boats being pulled by little trucks swaying all over
the road to agree with you.
Bugs

Don't mix advice for 5th wheel towing with advice for regular bumper
area hitch towing.

Bugs wrote:

I tow with a Dodge 3500 dually diesel and a fifth wheel. It carries
about 3500 lbs. on the truck axle with a 13.500 GVW trailer. I have
seen too many big boats being pulled by little trucks swaying all over
the road to agree with you.
Bugs

Bugs wrote:

I tow with a Dodge 3500 dually diesel and a fifth wheel. It carries
about 3500 lbs. on the truck axle with a 13.500 GVW trailer. I have
seen too many big boats being pulled by little trucks swaying all over
the road to agree with you.
Bugs


It is often helpful to quote at least a piece of what you're replying to, as
without it poor idiots like me can't figure out what your point is. - GWE

In article ,
Bruce L. Bergman wrote:

And if you have problems stopping with the extra weight, see if the
axle has a brake flange on it - 4 holes in a square behind the grease
seal area. If it does, it'll be easy to retrofit the trailer with
brakes. Go for surge brakes, and it'll also give you a good reason to
rework the tongue so you can mount the surge coupler.

Second the idea to carry a set of wheel bearings. And make sure you
have a spare tire and rim with you that fits the trailer (get a
take-off at the junkyard), and a way to jack up the trailer if the car
jack won't work - try it now.

As long as you're accessorizing, don't forget:
http://www.masterhitch.com/hitchAcc.asp?prodID=44
(:

--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net
http://web2.airmail.net/thegoat4/

On 16 Mar 2005 11:45:13 -0800, wrote:

Regarding your last paragraph, doesn't everyone do that?

When towing my 23' Compac sailboat, I make a point to stop and check
the four hub temperatures every 50-miles or so. I also make a point to
carry a grease gun, spare wheel, and small, Sears hydraulic floor jack
in my trunk just in case. I'm also planning to add a spare set of wheel
bearings to this list, based on your suggestion.

To your advice I would add, if you launch a boat trailer in salt water,
be sure to first equip the wheel bearings with grease pressurized
waterproof seals (I don't recall their brand name, but every marine
dealer sells them). Then pressurize them with your grease gun prior to
every launch. My wheel bearings are vintage 1981, but because of this
care are still going strong after probably 200-launches and and
estimated 50,000-road miles.!
Harry C.

They're called Bearing Buddies. If you use those, carry a spare.
I've twice had one fall out while on a trip.