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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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automotive fraem strength
Any ideas on the proper way to box in a car frame? I need to box a
frame for a 1967 Cutlass convertible and have recieved conflicting info. 1 welder says run the bead all the way around the metal pieces I am using to box in the fourth side. 2 say I won't gain anything by that, I should run a 4 inch bead, leave an 8 inch gap, run another bead util I have encircled the piece. Any isuggestions? Also can I add strength by adding a piece of flat stock to the outside or inside of the frame over this span? Thanks, |
#2
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"dafalcon" wrote in message oups.com... Any ideas on the proper way to box in a car frame? I need to box a frame for a 1967 Cutlass convertible and have recieved conflicting info. 1 welder says run the bead all the way around the metal pieces I am using to box in the fourth side. 2 say I won't gain anything by that, I should run a 4 inch bead, leave an 8 inch gap, run another bead util I have encircled the piece. Any isuggestions? Also can I add strength by adding a piece of flat stock to the outside or inside of the frame over this span? Thanks, First, why? How thick is the plate you are going to use? But, getting back to why, the application would determine method. (Demolition Derby, or rot-out, or something else?) |
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I have a great non-boxed frame that I will use to replace a rotted out
boxed frame for a restoration. Evidently this is usually done since boxed frames are usually too rotted to save. This is something I want to be strong and last. I don't know off hand the thickness of an auto frame but that is what I would use to box it in. |
#4
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"Tom Gardner" wrote in message ... "dafalcon" wrote in message oups.com... Any ideas on the proper way to box in a car frame? I need to box a frame for a 1967 Cutlass convertible and have recieved conflicting info. 1 welder says run the bead all the way around the metal pieces I am using to box in the fourth side. 2 say I won't gain anything by that, I should run a 4 inch bead, leave an 8 inch gap, run another bead util I have encircled the piece. Any isuggestions? Also can I add strength by adding a piece of flat stock to the outside or inside of the frame over this span? Thanks, First, why? How thick is the plate you are going to use? But, getting back to why, the application would determine method. (Demolition Derby, or rot-out, or something else?) Tom He's working with a 67 Cutlss convertible. Most likely not a car for demolishion derby. I have seen Convertible cars benefit from "boxing" their frames. I have no info on just how much benefit. Continuous welds will provide the maximum strength. But the time and effort may not result in enough additional ridgidity to make the time to weld worth it to you. I'd say that the frame will look better when continuously welded. The welds may be very difficult to see after the body is in place. Jerry |
#5
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Jerry Martes wrote:
"Tom Gardner" wrote in message ... "dafalcon" wrote in message groups.com... Any ideas on the proper way to box in a car frame? I need to box a frame for a 1967 Cutlass convertible and have recieved conflicting info. 1 welder says run the bead all the way around the metal pieces I am using to box in the fourth side. 2 say I won't gain anything by that, I should run a 4 inch bead, leave an 8 inch gap, run another bead util I have encircled the piece. Any isuggestions? You probably want to leave regular gaps as you weld it up to keep from imparting stress & twist to the frame in the process. I'd set it on a flat surface, check that it is straight and flat. Weld, leaving gaps. Allow to cool, then check for straightness to the same reference points (As listed in the FSM). Then go another round, leaving less gap. Check again, then finish the seams and grind off the excess. Be sure to leave some drainage holes for condensation. If it warps after all is done, take it to a frame shop to be straightened. -- - - Rex Burkheimer WM Automotive Fort Worth TX |
#6
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dafalcon wrote in article
.com... Any ideas on the proper way to box in a car frame? I need to box a frame for a 1967 Cutlass convertible and have recieved conflicting info. 1 welder says run the bead all the way around the metal pieces I am using to box in the fourth side. 2 say I won't gain anything by that, I should run a 4 inch bead, leave an 8 inch gap, run another bead util I have encircled the piece. Any isuggestions? Also can I add strength by adding a piece of flat stock to the outside or inside of the frame over this span? The OEM convertible frame was actually "boxed" with a "V"-shaped section, and was stamped from a heavier guage material. I don't have my 1967 GM service manual handy here in the office - but I DO have the 1968 GM manual here, and rear body mount locations differed by several inches between the wagon, sedan and convertible. Use of a "boxed" sedan frame will NOT provide the OEM frame strength, nor will it provide a convenient, well-designed replacement for the original and it is ill-advised. Even ignoring any possible safety issues, the sedan frame will likely sag, causing poor fits of the doors. -- Bob Paulin - R.A.C.E. Race Car Chassis Analysis & Setup Services Chassis Blueprinting Services (as in engine blueprinting) |
#7
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"Jerry Martes" wrote in message news%1Xd.66316$uc.45319@trnddc08... "Tom Gardner" wrote in message ... "dafalcon" wrote in message oups.com... Any ideas on the proper way to box in a car frame? I need to box a frame for a 1967 Cutlass convertible and have recieved conflicting info. 1 welder says run the bead all the way around the metal pieces I am using to box in the fourth side. 2 say I won't gain anything by that, I should run a 4 inch bead, leave an 8 inch gap, run another bead util I have encircled the piece. Any isuggestions? Also can I add strength by adding a piece of flat stock to the outside or inside of the frame over this span? Thanks, First, why? How thick is the plate you are going to use? But, getting back to why, the application would determine method. (Demolition Derby, or rot-out, or something else?) Tom He's working with a 67 Cutlss convertible. Most likely not a car for demolishion derby. I have seen Convertible cars benefit from "boxing" their frames. I have no info on just how much benefit. Continuous welds will provide the maximum strength. But the time and effort may not result in enough additional ridgidity to make the time to weld worth it to you. I'd say that the frame will look better when continuously welded. The welds may be very difficult to see after the body is in place. Jerry Boxing the frame is mainly for torsional rigidity, weld all along. But only weld ~4-6" then move the heat somewhere else for a while then come back to the gaps. Pat |
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