Well curiosity overcame better judgement and I bought one yesterday. Got to
play with it for awhile today and .. it was interestin to say the least.
It has a nice range of adjust ment from 5 amps to 130 amps but the only
control is on the box. No foot pedal or even a control on the torch. It is
scratch start but seems pretty easy to light untill you get way down on the
power for really light guage stuff. It did not come with a regulator. Fit
and finish looks really good and better than I expected. The "tungsten"
electrode that came with it is junk and balled right up. I did get to make
a few decent welds with it before the tungsten went away and being Saturday
no place to get more. I feel with a lot more practice it could well be a
nice machine for the small stuff but the jury is still out on that. I
didn't try the stick function as I have no use for a 90 amp stick machine
Mostly I need to get a good electrode and figure out how far to stick it out
of the cup to get the "flame" I want. For a lunch box sized machine it is
actually sort of impressive. Way easier to setup and get going than the big
Miller box .. no water hoses and I can pick it up with one hand
I did have trouble getting the aluminum to puddle right but I think I had
the gas turned down too much and the tungston kept misbehaving. (possibly
due to my ignorance but it just didn't act quite right)
Anyway I will have to play with it some more before I decide if it is worth
having in the shop.

Glenn

Glenn,
Is this item # 91811 ? I thought the knob on the TIG torch was the
control knob? Scratch start and TIG? Wonder if that is the reason the
electrode keeps balling. Kind of hard not to contaminate the electrode
with scratch start.

--
Steve Williams


"Glenn" wrote in message
...
Well curiosity overcame better judgement and I bought one yesterday.
Got to
play with it for awhile today and .. it was interestin to say the
least.
It has a nice range of adjust ment from 5 amps to 130 amps but the
only
control is on the box. No foot pedal or even a control on the torch.
It is
scratch start but seems pretty easy to light untill you get way down
on the
power for really light guage stuff. It did not come with a regulator.
Fit
and finish looks really good and better than I expected. The
"tungsten"
electrode that came with it is junk and balled right up. I did get to
make
a few decent welds with it before the tungsten went away and being
Saturday
no place to get more. I feel with a lot more practice it could well
be a
nice machine for the small stuff but the jury is still out on that. I
didn't try the stick function as I have no use for a 90 amp stick
machine
Mostly I need to get a good electrode and figure out how far to stick
it out
of the cup to get the "flame" I want. For a lunch box sized machine
it is
actually sort of impressive. Way easier to setup and get going than
the big
Miller box .. no water hoses and I can pick it up with one hand
I did have trouble getting the aluminum to puddle right but I think I
had
the gas turned down too much and the tungston kept misbehaving.
(possibly
due to my ignorance but it just didn't act quite right)
Anyway I will have to play with it some more before I decide if it is
worth
having in the shop.

Glenn





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Scratch start can be done on iron with success. You are going to have a hard
time doing aluminum with a DC machine. If you used DCEN it would do the
cleaning you need for aluminun but would put about 70% of the heat to your
torch. If you use DCEP you will put 70% the heat to the aluminum but have no
cleaning and never get a good weld.
As to the remote heat control you might be able to wire in a plug for a
remote POT.
"Steve W." wrote in message
...
Glenn,
Is this item # 91811 ? I thought the knob on the TIG torch was the
control knob? Scratch start and TIG? Wonder if that is the reason the
electrode keeps balling. Kind of hard not to contaminate the electrode
with scratch start.

--
Steve Williams


"Glenn" wrote in message
...
Well curiosity overcame better judgement and I bought one yesterday.
Got to
play with it for awhile today and .. it was interestin to say the
least.
It has a nice range of adjust ment from 5 amps to 130 amps but the
only
control is on the box. No foot pedal or even a control on the torch.
It is
scratch start but seems pretty easy to light untill you get way down
on the
power for really light guage stuff. It did not come with a regulator.
Fit
and finish looks really good and better than I expected. The
"tungsten"
electrode that came with it is junk and balled right up. I did get to
make
a few decent welds with it before the tungsten went away and being
Saturday
no place to get more. I feel with a lot more practice it could well
be a
nice machine for the small stuff but the jury is still out on that. I
didn't try the stick function as I have no use for a 90 amp stick
machine
Mostly I need to get a good electrode and figure out how far to stick
it out
of the cup to get the "flame" I want. For a lunch box sized machine
it is
actually sort of impressive. Way easier to setup and get going than
the big
Miller box .. no water hoses and I can pick it up with one hand
I did have trouble getting the aluminum to puddle right but I think I
had
the gas turned down too much and the tungston kept misbehaving.
(possibly
due to my ignorance but it just didn't act quite right)
Anyway I will have to play with it some more before I decide if it is
worth
having in the shop.

Glenn





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On Sun, 13 Feb 2005 11:07:36 -0500, "Waynemak"
wrote:

Scratch start can be done on iron with success. You are going to have a hard
time doing aluminum with a DC machine. If you used DCEN it would do the
cleaning you need for aluminun but would put about 70% of the heat to your
torch. If you use DCEP you will put 70% the heat to the aluminum but have no
cleaning and never get a good weld.
I learned to weld aluminum DCEP with helium as the shielding gas. It
was dirty, but only on the weld surface. The parts were frames made
from 6061 channel 4 inches wide, 2 inch legs, and 5/16 inch web. The
weld was veed out and after welding the part of the bead that was
proud was removed. This way the frame had sharp corners and flat
sides. No porosity was visible. None of the frames, which were about 4
feet high and 3 wide, and held a bunch of pneumatic equipment, ever
failed or cracked. They were reinforced by covers 1/8 inch thick
though. Can''t say that I was real pleased welding that way either.
ERS

As to the remote heat control you might be able to wire in a plug for a
remote POT.
"Steve W." wrote in message
...
Glenn,
Is this item # 91811 ? I thought the knob on the TIG torch was the
control knob? Scratch start and TIG? Wonder if that is the reason the
electrode keeps balling. Kind of hard not to contaminate the electrode
with scratch start.

--
Steve Williams


"Glenn" wrote in message
...
Well curiosity overcame better judgement and I bought one yesterday.
Got to
play with it for awhile today and .. it was interestin to say the
least.
It has a nice range of adjust ment from 5 amps to 130 amps but the
only
control is on the box. No foot pedal or even a control on the torch.
It is
scratch start but seems pretty easy to light untill you get way down
on the
power for really light guage stuff. It did not come with a regulator.
Fit
and finish looks really good and better than I expected. The
"tungsten"
electrode that came with it is junk and balled right up. I did get to
make
a few decent welds with it before the tungsten went away and being
Saturday
no place to get more. I feel with a lot more practice it could well
be a
nice machine for the small stuff but the jury is still out on that. I
didn't try the stick function as I have no use for a 90 amp stick
machine
Mostly I need to get a good electrode and figure out how far to stick
it out
of the cup to get the "flame" I want. For a lunch box sized machine
it is
actually sort of impressive. Way easier to setup and get going than
the big
Miller box .. no water hoses and I can pick it up with one hand
I did have trouble getting the aluminum to puddle right but I think I
had
the gas turned down too much and the tungston kept misbehaving.
(possibly
due to my ignorance but it just didn't act quite right)
Anyway I will have to play with it some more before I decide if it is
worth
having in the shop.

Glenn





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On Sat, 12 Feb 2005 23:06:40 -0800, "Glenn"
wrote:

Well curiosity overcame better judgement and I bought one yesterday. Got to
play with it for awhile today and .. it was interestin to say the least.
It has a nice range of adjust ment from 5 amps to 130 amps but the only
control is on the box. No foot pedal or even a control on the torch. It is
scratch start but seems pretty easy to light untill you get way down on the
power for really light guage stuff. It did not come with a regulator. Fit
and finish looks really good and better than I expected. The "tungsten"
electrode that came with it is junk and balled right up. I did get to make
a few decent welds with it before the tungsten went away and being Saturday
no place to get more. I feel with a lot more practice it could well be a
nice machine for the small stuff but the jury is still out on that. I
didn't try the stick function as I have no use for a 90 amp stick machine
Mostly I need to get a good electrode and figure out how far to stick it out
of the cup to get the "flame" I want. For a lunch box sized machine it is
actually sort of impressive. Way easier to setup and get going than the big
Miller box .. no water hoses and I can pick it up with one hand
I did have trouble getting the aluminum to puddle right but I think I had
the gas turned down too much and the tungston kept misbehaving. (possibly
due to my ignorance but it just didn't act quite right)
Anyway I will have to play with it some more before I decide if it is worth
having in the shop.

It's probably set up for DCEP. AC with HF start is best for aluminum,
but DCEN will work (at lower currents) if you can reverse the
polarity. A zirconiated tungsten will hold up much better than pure
or thoriated tungsten in DCEN service.

I really appreciate your comments. As a student, the price on this is very
attractive. Have you had a chance to try it on stainless or mild steel?

I am currently using a borrowed Daytona Mig Pocket Pulse TIG welder, which
is also scratch start, and also has no foot pedal or torch control. I don't
have any problem with it, so if this one matches that, I would be happy...

Obviously, this is no match for the Synchrowaves I am using at school, but
the price is about 1/10th of those machines!!! I'm not sure that the other
people commenting realize that this unit costs less than $300!

I am also very curious about their 36 amp plasma cutter - why don't you try
that out next, and tell us how it works?? g

"If it wasn't for Harbor Freight tools, I wouldn't have no tools at all..."

Yes, that is the one, and the knob on the torch is for controling gas flow
and is just a valve.
I am pretty sure the electrode is just straight tungsten and only 1/16". I
am going to pickup some thoriated and zirconated electrodes and seeif they
don't work better. I also plan to get some larger diameter sticks.
I had pretty low expectations when I bought it and nobody in the store could
tell me anything about it. I am hoping that with a larger doped electrode
and DCEP I can do a bit of aluminum welding with it on smaller stuff. I was
hoping it would fill a niche in my welding tools for small stuff that is
hard for the bigger MIG to weld and not worth the effort to dig out the big
TIG stuff. The old miller with HF head is not easy to get to do small work
with.
Main purpose of posting was to let others know a bit more about the machine.

Glenn


"Steve W." wrote in message
...
Glenn,
Is this item # 91811 ? I thought the knob on the TIG torch was the
control knob? Scratch start and TIG? Wonder if that is the reason the
electrode keeps balling. Kind of hard not to contaminate the electrode
with scratch start.

--
Steve Williams


"Glenn" wrote in message
...
Well curiosity overcame better judgement and I bought one yesterday.
dnip

I think it will be fine for steel. I had a bit of trouble with thin stuff
getting the current down enough not to burn through and still be able to
keep a flame going. I think that is more operator error and learning than
anything. I also had lots of problems with the cheapie electrode they had
in there.
For ~$250 it is a nice little unit and works ok for the design but it ain't
no synchrowave by any stretch
Strictly a hobby toy and may be able to do some of the stuff that is more
difficult with the MIG or stick welders.
YMMV
Glenn
"Emmo" wrote in message
...
I really appreciate your comments. As a student, the price on this is very
attractive. Have you had a chance to try it on stainless or mild steel?

I am currently using a borrowed Daytona Mig Pocket Pulse TIG welder, which
is also scratch start, and also has no foot pedal or torch control. I
don't have any problem with it, so if this one matches that, I would be
happy...

Obviously, this is no match for the Synchrowaves I am using at school, but
the price is about 1/10th of those machines!!! I'm not sure that the
other people commenting realize that this unit costs less than $300!

I am also very curious about their 36 amp plasma cutter - why don't you
try that out next, and tell us how it works?? g

"If it wasn't for Harbor Freight tools, I wouldn't have no tools at
all..."

That's the reason I was looking at it myself. I have a BIG stick/TIG
machine and was looking for something more portable. I figured on using
it for light steel work and decorative stuff. Looks like I'll have to
buy one and play with it some....
Wonder if a foot control could be wired in.
--
Steve Williams

"Glenn" wrote in message
...
Yes, that is the one, and the knob on the torch is for controling gas
flow
and is just a valve.
I am pretty sure the electrode is just straight tungsten and only
1/16". I
am going to pickup some thoriated and zirconated electrodes and seeif
they
don't work better. I also plan to get some larger diameter sticks.
I had pretty low expectations when I bought it and nobody in the store
could
tell me anything about it. I am hoping that with a larger doped
electrode
and DCEP I can do a bit of aluminum welding with it on smaller stuff.
I was
hoping it would fill a niche in my welding tools for small stuff that
is
hard for the bigger MIG to weld and not worth the effort to dig out
the big
TIG stuff. The old miller with HF head is not easy to get to do small
work
with.
Main purpose of posting was to let others know a bit more about the
machine.

Glenn


"Steve W." wrote in message
...
Glenn,
Is this item # 91811 ? I thought the knob on the TIG torch was the
control knob? Scratch start and TIG? Wonder if that is the reason
the
electrode keeps balling. Kind of hard not to contaminate the
electrode
with scratch start.

--
Steve Williams


"Glenn" wrote in message
...
Well curiosity overcame better judgement and I bought one
yesterday.
dnip





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My catalog has it at $199.99. Catalog number 91811-1MPC

"Steve W." wrote in message
...
That's the reason I was looking at it myself. I have a BIG stick/TIG
machine and was looking for something more portable. I figured on using
it for light steel work and decorative stuff. Looks like I'll have to
buy one and play with it some....
Wonder if a foot control could be wired in.
--
Steve Williams

"Glenn" wrote in message
...
Yes, that is the one, and the knob on the torch is for controling gas
flow
and is just a valve.
I am pretty sure the electrode is just straight tungsten and only
1/16". I
am going to pickup some thoriated and zirconated electrodes and seeif
they
don't work better. I also plan to get some larger diameter sticks.
I had pretty low expectations when I bought it and nobody in the store
could
tell me anything about it. I am hoping that with a larger doped
electrode
and DCEP I can do a bit of aluminum welding with it on smaller stuff.
I was
hoping it would fill a niche in my welding tools for small stuff that
is
hard for the bigger MIG to weld and not worth the effort to dig out
the big
TIG stuff. The old miller with HF head is not easy to get to do small
work
with.
Main purpose of posting was to let others know a bit more about the
machine.

Glenn


"Steve W." wrote in message
...
Glenn,
Is this item # 91811 ? I thought the knob on the TIG torch was the
control knob? Scratch start and TIG? Wonder if that is the reason
the
electrode keeps balling. Kind of hard not to contaminate the
electrode
with scratch start.

--
Steve Williams


"Glenn" wrote in message
...
Well curiosity overcame better judgement and I bought one
yesterday.
dnip





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Foot control should be no problem at all. There is a simple schematic in
the "operating manual". I think you may even be able to make it a square
wave output by bypassing the rectifier? It uses a centertapped transformer
and 2 diodes for a FWB rectifier in the output. That feeds an inductor that
may even be a nice place to introduce an HF signal? The schematic is so
vague that I would really have to open the box to see what is really in
there. It does have a current sensing circuit to turn the gas on and give a
nice post flow. Really .. they came just "this" close to a fine little TIG
machine.

Glenn

"Steve W." wrote in message
...
That's the reason I was looking at it myself. I have a BIG stick/TIG
machine and was looking for something more portable. I figured on using
it for light steel work and decorative stuff. Looks like I'll have to
buy one and play with it some....
Wonder if a foot control could be wired in.
--
Steve Williams

"Glenn" wrote in message
...
Yes, that is the one, and the knob on the torch is for controling gas
flow
and is just a valve.
I am pretty sure the electrode is just straight tungsten and only
1/16". I
am going to pickup some thoriated and zirconated electrodes and seeif
they
don't work better. I also plan to get some larger diameter sticks.
I had pretty low expectations when I bought it and nobody in the store
could
tell me anything about it. I am hoping that with a larger doped
electrode
and DCEP I can do a bit of aluminum welding with it on smaller stuff.
I was
hoping it would fill a niche in my welding tools for small stuff that
is
hard for the bigger MIG to weld and not worth the effort to dig out
the big
TIG stuff. The old miller with HF head is not easy to get to do small
work
with.
Main purpose of posting was to let others know a bit more about the
machine.

Glenn


"Steve W." wrote in message
...
Glenn,
Is this item # 91811 ? I thought the knob on the TIG torch was the
control knob? Scratch start and TIG? Wonder if that is the reason
the
electrode keeps balling. Kind of hard not to contaminate the
electrode
with scratch start.

--
Steve Williams


"Glenn" wrote in message
...
Well curiosity overcame better judgement and I bought one
yesterday.
dnip





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Yup .. it's 199.00 online too. I bought it in the store as my latest
catalogue shows $259 which is what I paid in the store. Such is the fate of
the impulse buyer Maybe I should go complain at the store and see if I
can get the diff back Or take it back and then order it online?? LOL
Glenn
"Emmo" wrote in message
...
My catalog has it at $199.99. Catalog number 91811-1MPC

"Steve W." wrote in message
...
That's the reason I was looking at it myself. I have a BIG stick/TIG
machine and was looking for something more portable. I figured on using
it for light steel work and decorative stuff. Looks like I'll have to
buy one and play with it some....
Wonder if a foot control could be wired in.
--
Steve Williams

"Glenn" wrote in message
...
Yes, that is the one, and the knob on the torch is for controling gas
flow
and is just a valve.
I am pretty sure the electrode is just straight tungsten and only
1/16". I
am going to pickup some thoriated and zirconated electrodes and seeif
they
don't work better. I also plan to get some larger diameter sticks.
I had pretty low expectations when I bought it and nobody in the store
could
tell me anything about it. I am hoping that with a larger doped
electrode
and DCEP I can do a bit of aluminum welding with it on smaller stuff.
I was
hoping it would fill a niche in my welding tools for small stuff that
is
hard for the bigger MIG to weld and not worth the effort to dig out
the big
TIG stuff. The old miller with HF head is not easy to get to do small
work
with.
Main purpose of posting was to let others know a bit more about the
machine.

Glenn


"Steve W." wrote in message
...
Glenn,
Is this item # 91811 ? I thought the knob on the TIG torch was the
control knob? Scratch start and TIG? Wonder if that is the reason
the
electrode keeps balling. Kind of hard not to contaminate the
electrode
with scratch start.

--
Steve Williams


"Glenn" wrote in message
...
Well curiosity overcame better judgement and I bought one
yesterday.
dnip





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Newsgroups
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=----

On Sun, 13 Feb 2005 23:19:05 -0800, "Glenn"
wrote:

Yup .. it's 199.00 online too. I bought it in the store as my latest
catalogue shows $259 which is what I paid in the store. Such is the fate of
the impulse buyer Maybe I should go complain at the store and see if I
can get the diff back Or take it back and then order it online?? LOL
Glenn

On high dollar items at HF....ALWAYS ask the manager for his best
price. They will generally discount for you.

Gunner
It's better to be a red person in a blue state
than a blue person in a red state. As a red
person, if your blue neighbors turn into a mob
at least you have a gun to protect yourself.
As a blue person, your only hope is to appease
the red mob with herbal tea and marinated tofu.

(Phil Garding)

HF will refund the difference if you just bring the receipt into the
store along with the add for 30 days after purchase. I asked about it at
the Utica store.

--
Steve Williams

"Glenn" wrote in message
...
Yup .. it's 199.00 online too. I bought it in the store as my latest
catalogue shows $259 which is what I paid in the store. Such is the
fate of
the impulse buyer Maybe I should go complain at the store and see
if I
can get the diff back Or take it back and then order it online??
LOL
Glenn
"Emmo" wrote in message
...
My catalog has it at $199.99. Catalog number 91811-1MPC

"Steve W." wrote in message
...
That's the reason I was looking at it myself. I have a BIG
stick/TIG
machine and was looking for something more portable. I figured on
using
it for light steel work and decorative stuff. Looks like I'll have
to
buy one and play with it some....
Wonder if a foot control could be wired in.
--
Steve Williams

"Glenn" wrote in message
...
Yes, that is the one, and the knob on the torch is for controling
gas
flow
and is just a valve.
I am pretty sure the electrode is just straight tungsten and only
1/16". I
am going to pickup some thoriated and zirconated electrodes and
seeif
they
don't work better. I also plan to get some larger diameter
sticks.
I had pretty low expectations when I bought it and nobody in the
store
could
tell me anything about it. I am hoping that with a larger doped
electrode
and DCEP I can do a bit of aluminum welding with it on smaller
stuff.
I was
hoping it would fill a niche in my welding tools for small stuff
that
is
hard for the bigger MIG to weld and not worth the effort to dig
out
the big
TIG stuff. The old miller with HF head is not easy to get to do
small
work
with.
Main purpose of posting was to let others know a bit more about
the
machine.

Glenn


"Steve W." wrote in message
...
Glenn,
Is this item # 91811 ? I thought the knob on the TIG torch was
the
control knob? Scratch start and TIG? Wonder if that is the
reason
the
electrode keeps balling. Kind of hard not to contaminate the
electrode
with scratch start.

--
Steve Williams


"Glenn" wrote in message
...
Well curiosity overcame better judgement and I bought one
yesterday.
dnip





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Usenet
News==----
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120,000+
Newsgroups
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So what your trying not to say outright is GO BUY IT right......

Sounds like with the addition of a few pieces it could be turned into a
respectable machine. Already have a nice HF add on unit for a
conventional stick welder.
Wonder why they don't have that owners manual online?
--
Steve Williams

"Glenn" wrote in message
...
Foot control should be no problem at all. There is a simple schematic
in
the "operating manual". I think you may even be able to make it a
square
wave output by bypassing the rectifier? It uses a centertapped
transformer
and 2 diodes for a FWB rectifier in the output. That feeds an
inductor that
may even be a nice place to introduce an HF signal? The schematic is
so
vague that I would really have to open the box to see what is really
in
there. It does have a current sensing circuit to turn the gas on and
give a
nice post flow. Really .. they came just "this" close to a fine
little TIG
machine.

Glenn

"Steve W." wrote in message
...
That's the reason I was looking at it myself. I have a BIG stick/TIG
machine and was looking for something more portable. I figured on
using
it for light steel work and decorative stuff. Looks like I'll have
to
buy one and play with it some....
Wonder if a foot control could be wired in.
--
Steve Williams

"Glenn" wrote in message
...
Yes, that is the one, and the knob on the torch is for controling
gas
flow
and is just a valve.
I am pretty sure the electrode is just straight tungsten and only
1/16". I
am going to pickup some thoriated and zirconated electrodes and
seeif
they
don't work better. I also plan to get some larger diameter sticks.
I had pretty low expectations when I bought it and nobody in the
store
could
tell me anything about it. I am hoping that with a larger doped
electrode
and DCEP I can do a bit of aluminum welding with it on smaller
stuff.
I was
hoping it would fill a niche in my welding tools for small stuff
that
is
hard for the bigger MIG to weld and not worth the effort to dig out
the big
TIG stuff. The old miller with HF head is not easy to get to do
small
work
with.
Main purpose of posting was to let others know a bit more about the
machine.

Glenn


"Steve W." wrote in message
...
Glenn,
Is this item # 91811 ? I thought the knob on the TIG torch was
the
control knob? Scratch start and TIG? Wonder if that is the reason
the
electrode keeps balling. Kind of hard not to contaminate the
electrode
with scratch start.

--
Steve Williams


"Glenn" wrote in message
...
Well curiosity overcame better judgement and I bought one
yesterday.
dnip





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I guess what I am trying to do is let folk know what I found when I bought
it. If you want to build aluminum frames for hang gliders .. RUN! But if
you want a cheap lightduty scratch start DC TIG machine to play with go for
it
I did get some ceriated and thoriated tungstens today. Nobody around here
had any Zirconated ones. I ground a point on a thoriated 1/16" rod and
fired it off but only got to play about 5 mins. Big difference. The point
actually stayed just like I made it. The original one would have melted
into the cone in that much time at that current.
So if you do buy one be sure to get some electrodes and you will need a tank
and regulator to hook up too. It comes with 3 collets, but the only one I
could find a stick for was the 1/16" one. The others are on both sides for
size but metric. I am sure I can make a 3/32" fit with a bit of filing but
the other one is smaller than 1/16 and 1/16" was the smallest one I could
find.
I was sorta thinking about running it through the HF TIG box for the Dialarc
350 I have. ?? Gotta look at that tomorrow and see if it is feasable. VDay
killed all my play time in the shop .. but I did figure out this card thing
Ya just give SWMBO a card and she puts it on display for a week or so
and you quietly pick it up and put it back in the envelope and file it for
next year Viola! Yer all set for the rest of yer life ... which may only
be till next Vday LOL
Glenn

"Steve W." wrote in message
...
So what your trying not to say outright is GO BUY IT right......

Sounds like with the addition of a few pieces it could be turned into a
respectable machine. Already have a nice HF add on unit for a
conventional stick welder.
Wonder why they don't have that owners manual online?
--
Steve Williams

"Glenn" wrote in message
...
Foot control should be no problem at all. There is a simple schematic
in
the "operating manual". I think you may even be able to make it a
square
wave output by bypassing the rectifier? It uses a centertapped
transformer
and 2 diodes for a FWB rectifier in the output. That feeds an
inductor that
may even be a nice place to introduce an HF signal? The schematic is
so
vague that I would really have to open the box to see what is really
in
there. It does have a current sensing circuit to turn the gas on and
give a
nice post flow. Really .. they came just "this" close to a fine
little TIG
machine.

Glenn

"Steve W." wrote in message
...
That's the reason I was looking at it myself. I have a BIG stick/TIG
machine and was looking for something more portable. I figured on
using
it for light steel work and decorative stuff. Looks like I'll have
to
buy one and play with it some....
Wonder if a foot control could be wired in.
--
Steve Williams

"Glenn" wrote in message
...
Yes, that is the one, and the knob on the torch is for controling
gas
flow
and is just a valve.
I am pretty sure the electrode is just straight tungsten and only
1/16". I
am going to pickup some thoriated and zirconated electrodes and
seeif
they
don't work better. I also plan to get some larger diameter sticks.
I had pretty low expectations when I bought it and nobody in the
store
could
tell me anything about it. I am hoping that with a larger doped
electrode
and DCEP I can do a bit of aluminum welding with it on smaller
stuff.
I was
hoping it would fill a niche in my welding tools for small stuff
that
is
hard for the bigger MIG to weld and not worth the effort to dig out
the big
TIG stuff. The old miller with HF head is not easy to get to do
small
work
with.
Main purpose of posting was to let others know a bit more about the
machine.

Glenn


"Steve W." wrote in message
...
Glenn,
Is this item # 91811 ? I thought the knob on the TIG torch was
the
control knob? Scratch start and TIG? Wonder if that is the reason
the
electrode keeps balling. Kind of hard not to contaminate the
electrode
with scratch start.

--
Steve Williams


"Glenn" wrote in message
...
Well curiosity overcame better judgement and I bought one
yesterday.
dnip





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