After spending too much time trying to find plans for a spiral staircase, or
a kit for a reasonable cost, I've decided to start from scratch and make my
own. What I plan to do is weld 4" angle iron "tread brackets" to a 3" pipe
at 30 degree spacing (all material is 1/8 inch). Each tread is 8 " higher
than the next one - this gives 11 treads for an 88 inch rise. I'll cut a 1
1/2" radius curve into the horizontal part of the angle iron to match the
pipe I'm welding it to. The tread brackets will have welds on both sides of
the vertical and horizontal surfaces. Then I'm going to drill and bolt 2 by
12 wooden tread to each bracket. Brackets will probably be 36 to 40" long
as will wooden treads. I still haven't figured out the balusters, but
probably will use a single rod welded to each tread bracket and somehow
curve a metal railing for a hand rail (the rail will be a problem). This
may sound like a lot of work, but I have all the materials on hand, a Miller
175 MIG welder and a plasma cutter. There are only 11 treads to attach, so
I can get this part cut and done in a day, provided I can layout the degree
spacing without botching it. The big problem I see is the railing, but I do
have a small bender which I could bend short sections of pip in, and weld
them together as I work my way up. I looked for kits, and none had wooden
treads for less than about $2500 shipped to me in Colorado, so I have some
financial incentive. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks for being
a great group.

John

Sounds like you have most of the work figured out.
For marking the risers, one good way is to take some butcher paper (fanfold
printer paper is also good for this) and wrap it at the angle you want onto
the pipe and measure the length. Mark the paper at 1/11 of that distance
and you have the riser positions. Punch the pipe at those locations for a
marker and start welding.
For bending the ballister, just run your material through the bender and
weld afterwords as necessary to get the full length. Don't worry too much
about the rise as this will get fixed as you weld it in place although
keeping the angle about right will help. Tension springs show that the
material will go up right.

--
Why isn't there an Ozone Hole at the NORTH Pole?

The butcher paper idea is great! Thanks!

John

"Bob May" wrote in message
...
Sounds like you have most of the work figured out.
For marking the risers, one good way is to take some butcher paper
(fanfold
printer paper is also good for this) and wrap it at the angle you want
onto
the pipe and measure the length. Mark the paper at 1/11 of that distance
and you have the riser positions. Punch the pipe at those locations for a
marker and start welding.
For bending the ballister, just run your material through the bender and
weld afterwords as necessary to get the full length. Don't worry too much
about the rise as this will get fixed as you weld it in place although
keeping the angle about right will help. Tension springs show that the
material will go up right.

--
Why isn't there an Ozone Hole at the NORTH Pole?

In article ,
says...
After spending too much time trying to find plans for a spiral staircase, or
a kit for a reasonable cost, I've decided to start from scratch and make my
own. What I plan to do is weld 4" angle iron "tread brackets" to a 3" pipe
at 30 degree spacing (all material is 1/8 inch). Each tread is 8 " higher
than the next one - this gives 11 treads for an 88 inch rise.

Don't forget about headroom--if you design too few treads per revolution
you'll have to stoop as you go up. If I'm considering everything
poroperly, you'll want at least 10 treads per rev.

I'll cut a 1
1/2" radius curve into the horizontal part of the angle iron to match the
pipe I'm welding it to. The tread brackets will have welds on both sides of
the vertical and horizontal surfaces. Then I'm going to drill and bolt 2 by
12 wooden tread to each bracket. Brackets will probably be 36 to 40" long
as will wooden treads. I still haven't figured out the balusters, but
probably will use a single rod welded to each tread bracket and somehow
curve a metal railing for a hand rail (the rail will be a problem). This
may sound like a lot of work, but I have all the materials on hand, a Miller
175 MIG welder and a plasma cutter. There are only 11 treads to attach, so
I can get this part cut and done in a day, provided I can layout the degree
spacing without botching it. The big problem I see is the railing, but I do
have a small bender which I could bend short sections of pip in, and weld
them together as I work my way up.

I've seen spiral handrails made up from a bundle of smaller rods. I
don't know whether they were bent bundled together and then tacked to
stiffen up the rail, or if laid in place one at a time and tacked as
required.

I built a wooden spiral staircase for my house (actually it's three
straight steps, seven winders, then 3 more straight) and it was a much
bigger job than I planned. The handrail was by far the hardest part.
Welded steel would have been much easier.

Ned Simmons

I think most spirals use the next step to support the front edge of the
step above,and use the space under the step as toe space, mebbe the
baluster goin through both steps.......I guess what I am saying is if
the angle has its verticle part facing front, it will use up foot space,
and if it is in the back it will leave the front edge flopping around

I think 3 inch pipe will look small when you are done......

I think 1 inch round thinwall tubing and a torch would work as a
railing, bendit and heat as required, mig it to the balusters on the way
by......

if you make a sprial big enough to be comfy, it takes up about the same
space as a stairway....



Ned Simmons wrote:
In article ,
says...

After spending too much time trying to find plans for a spiral staircase, or
a kit for a reasonable cost, I've decided to start from scratch and make my
own. What I plan to do is weld 4" angle iron "tread brackets" to a 3" pipe
at 30 degree spacing (all material is 1/8 inch). Each tread is 8 " higher
than the next one - this gives 11 treads for an 88 inch rise.


Don't forget about headroom--if you design too few treads per revolution
you'll have to stoop as you go up. If I'm considering everything
poroperly, you'll want at least 10 treads per rev.

I'll cut a 1

1/2" radius curve into the horizontal part of the angle iron to match the
pipe I'm welding it to. The tread brackets will have welds on both sides of
the vertical and horizontal surfaces. Then I'm going to drill and bolt 2 by
12 wooden tread to each bracket. Brackets will probably be 36 to 40" long
as will wooden treads. I still haven't figured out the balusters, but
probably will use a single rod welded to each tread bracket and somehow
curve a metal railing for a hand rail (the rail will be a problem). This
may sound like a lot of work, but I have all the materials on hand, a Miller
175 MIG welder and a plasma cutter. There are only 11 treads to attach, so
I can get this part cut and done in a day, provided I can layout the degree
spacing without botching it. The big problem I see is the railing, but I do
have a small bender which I could bend short sections of pip in, and weld
them together as I work my way up.


I've seen spiral handrails made up from a bundle of smaller rods. I
don't know whether they were bent bundled together and then tacked to
stiffen up the rail, or if laid in place one at a time and tacked as
required.

I built a wooden spiral staircase for my house (actually it's three
straight steps, seven winders, then 3 more straight) and it was a much
bigger job than I planned. The handrail was by far the hardest part.
Welded steel would have been much easier.

Ned Simmons

Doctor John wrote:
After spending too much time trying to find plans for a spiral staircase, or
a kit for a reasonable cost, I've decided to start from scratch and make my
own. What I plan to do is weld 4" angle iron "tread brackets" to a 3" pipe
at 30 degree spacing (all material is 1/8 inch). Each tread is 8 " higher
than the next one - this gives 11 treads for an 88 inch rise. I'll cut a 1
1/2" radius curve into the horizontal part of the angle iron to match the
pipe I'm welding it to. The tread brackets will have welds on both sides of
the vertical and horizontal surfaces. Then I'm going to drill and bolt 2 by
12 wooden tread to each bracket. Brackets will probably be 36 to 40" long
as will wooden treads. I still haven't figured out the balusters, but
probably will use a single rod welded to each tread bracket and somehow
curve a metal railing for a hand rail (the rail will be a problem). This
may sound like a lot of work, but I have all the materials on hand, a Miller
175 MIG welder and a plasma cutter. There are only 11 treads to attach, so
I can get this part cut and done in a day, provided I can layout the degree
spacing without botching it. The big problem I see is the railing, but I do
have a small bender which I could bend short sections of pip in, and weld
them together as I work my way up. I looked for kits, and none had wooden
treads for less than about $2500 shipped to me in Colorado, so I have some
financial incentive. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks for being
a great group.

John

I have a back issue of Fine Homebuilding somewhere with an article on
spiral stair much like you describe. This is more of a feature artile
than do-it-yourself, but might have some ideas for you. Let me know if
you want, I'll scan it and send it to you.


--
Gary Brady
Austin, TX
www.powdercoatoven.4t.com

In article , Doctor
wrote:

After spending too much time trying to find plans for a spiral staircase, or
a kit for a reasonable cost, I've decided to start from scratch and make my
own. What I plan to do is weld 4" angle iron "tread brackets" to a 3" pipe
at 30 degree spacing (all material is 1/8 inch). Each tread is 8 " higher
than the next one - this gives 11 treads for an 88 inch rise. I'll cut a 1
1/2" radius curve into the horizontal part of the angle iron to match the
pipe I'm welding it to. The tread brackets will have welds on both sides of
the vertical and horizontal surfaces. Then I'm going to drill and bolt 2 by
12 wooden tread to each bracket. Brackets will probably be 36 to 40" long
as will wooden treads. I still haven't figured out the balusters, but
probably will use a single rod welded to each tread bracket and somehow
curve a metal railing for a hand rail (the rail will be a problem). This
may sound like a lot of work, but I have all the materials on hand, a Miller
175 MIG welder and a plasma cutter. There are only 11 treads to attach, so
I can get this part cut and done in a day, provided I can layout the degree
spacing without botching it. The big problem I see is the railing, but I do
have a small bender which I could bend short sections of pip in, and weld
them together as I work my way up. I looked for kits, and none had wooden
treads for less than about $2500 shipped to me in Colorado, so I have some
financial incentive. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks for being
a great group.

John




I do a lot of staircases.
All steel, sometimes with wood treads.

Whenever somebody asks for a spiral I refer them to any of 3 shops in
Seattle who do nothing but spirals.
I don't mind installing it and adding detail stuff, but it is just more
practical to have the stair fabbed by the guys with all the jigs and
experience.
I have built spirals from scratch, and it is just too much space and
time.

Which issue? I have most of the back issues............ somewhere!

Gary Brady wrote:
Doctor John wrote:

After spending too much time trying to find plans for a spiral
staircase, or
a kit for a reasonable cost, I've decided to start from scratch and
make my
own. What I plan to do is weld 4" angle iron "tread brackets" to a 3"
pipe
at 30 degree spacing (all material is 1/8 inch). Each tread is 8 "
higher
than the next one - this gives 11 treads for an 88 inch rise. I'll
cut a 1
1/2" radius curve into the horizontal part of the angle iron to match the
pipe I'm welding it to. The tread brackets will have welds on both
sides of
the vertical and horizontal surfaces. Then I'm going to drill and
bolt 2 by
12 wooden tread to each bracket. Brackets will probably be 36 to 40"
long
as will wooden treads. I still haven't figured out the balusters, but
probably will use a single rod welded to each tread bracket and somehow
curve a metal railing for a hand rail (the rail will be a problem). This
may sound like a lot of work, but I have all the materials on hand, a
Miller
175 MIG welder and a plasma cutter. There are only 11 treads to
attach, so
I can get this part cut and done in a day, provided I can layout the
degree
spacing without botching it. The big problem I see is the railing,
but I do
have a small bender which I could bend short sections of pip in, and weld
them together as I work my way up. I looked for kits, and none had
wooden
treads for less than about $2500 shipped to me in Colorado, so I have
some
financial incentive. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks for
being
a great group.

John


I have a back issue of Fine Homebuilding somewhere with an article on
spiral stair much like you describe. This is more of a feature artile
than do-it-yourself, but might have some ideas for you. Let me know if
you want, I'll scan it and send it to you.

I have built 3 open tread spiral stairs and have a few suggestions.

I would strongly recommend that you not weld the treads to the support
column. If you misfigure anything you will be screwed. For maximum
flexibility weld the tread supports to collars with an ID that fits closely
over the support column and one riser in height and secure them in place
with 3 or 4 set screws. You can then make minor adjustments to the run
after it is in place and it takes a lot less effort and space to fabricate.

Riser height should be something between 7" and 8.5" that divides evenly
into the distance between floors. Be very careful here as the error is
cumulative. The tread width 2/3 of the way out from the column can be
figured by subtracting twice the run from about 24" and add 1" for overlap.
For the steepest safe angle use 21". For the lowest safe angle use 27".
For example an 8" rise should have a run of (24+1)-(2*8) or 9". Err on the
side of wider as you can increase the overlap on final adjustment but gaps
should be avoided.

Drill and tap the collars in 3 places for the set screws and weld on the
tread supports so that the top of the tread is even with the top of the
collar. You can weld the top collar to the landing but it will be easier to
erect if you weld a flange to it and bolt it to the platform after the
column is in place.

The column should be 6" dia minimum heavy wall pipe and the length should be
the floor to floor distance plus the rail height. Weld a flange on the
bottom to fix it on the lower floor. Attach the wooden treads only to the
bottom 3 or 4 tread supports. Set the column on saw horses and thread on
the treads. Distribute the treads around the column and temporarily fix in
place. Set up and plumb the column, fix the bottom thread in the desired
position and then redistribute the threads evenly.

I make the banisters out of solid wood. Spindles are 1" OD pipe with a
short piece of round bar drilled and tapped 1/4-20 welded inside the end.
After the staircase is in place and adjusted I set the spindles and make a
pattern for the banister that covers 3 or 4 spindles. Then I bandsaw the
banister out of 5/4 wood. In the ends of each section I cut a horizontal
slot 1/2" wide and about 2" deep for a joining insert. I cut the inserts
over size and sand smooth once the banister is in place. Joints should not
be located over a spindle. When fitting the banister I stick short lengths
of 1/4" threaded rod sharpened on one end into the spindles and press the
banister down to mark the drill holes. Drill and countersink the screw
holes and then fasten with flat head screws and plug the holes.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Somewhere I've seen a freeware program that did all the calculations for
a spiral staircase so it started and ended where you need it to.

yourname wrote:
I think most spirals use the next step to support the front edge of the
step above,and use the space under the step as toe space, mebbe the
baluster goin through both steps.......I guess what I am saying is if
the angle has its verticle part facing front, it will use up foot space,
and if it is in the back it will leave the front edge flopping around

I think 3 inch pipe will look small when you are done......

I think 1 inch round thinwall tubing and a torch would work as a
railing, bendit and heat as required, mig it to the balusters on the way
by......

if you make a sprial big enough to be comfy, it takes up about the same
space as a stairway....



Ned Simmons wrote:

In article ,
says...

After spending too much time trying to find plans for a spiral
staircase, or
a kit for a reasonable cost, I've decided to start from scratch and
make my
own. What I plan to do is weld 4" angle iron "tread brackets" to a
3" pipe
at 30 degree spacing (all material is 1/8 inch). Each tread is 8 "
higher
than the next one - this gives 11 treads for an 88 inch rise.



Don't forget about headroom--if you design too few treads per
revolution you'll have to stoop as you go up. If I'm considering
everything poroperly, you'll want at least 10 treads per rev.

I'll cut a 1

1/2" radius curve into the horizontal part of the angle iron to match
the
pipe I'm welding it to. The tread brackets will have welds on both
sides of
the vertical and horizontal surfaces. Then I'm going to drill and
bolt 2 by
12 wooden tread to each bracket. Brackets will probably be 36 to 40"
long
as will wooden treads. I still haven't figured out the balusters, but
probably will use a single rod welded to each tread bracket and somehow
curve a metal railing for a hand rail (the rail will be a problem).
This
may sound like a lot of work, but I have all the materials on hand, a
Miller
175 MIG welder and a plasma cutter. There are only 11 treads to
attach, so
I can get this part cut and done in a day, provided I can layout the
degree
spacing without botching it. The big problem I see is the railing,
but I do
have a small bender which I could bend short sections of pip in, and
weld
them together as I work my way up.



I've seen spiral handrails made up from a bundle of smaller rods. I
don't know whether they were bent bundled together and then tacked to
stiffen up the rail, or if laid in place one at a time and tacked as
required.
I built a wooden spiral staircase for my house (actually it's three
straight steps, seven winders, then 3 more straight) and it was a much
bigger job than I planned. The handrail was by far the hardest part.
Welded steel would have been much easier.

Ned Simmons