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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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Worn out tailstock repair options...?
Hi,
I've noticed that I haven't been getting much support from my tailstock when turning longer items, so I set up an indicator to measure just how much support I wasn't getting, and found that at 4" extension, the end of the ram could move .012 with hand pressure, unclamped, .010 clamped. Retracting to 0" extension, I could move it about .004", clamped. In both cases, I was measuring front-to- back, but imagine the vertical number would be similar. Adding washers under the clamp handle had no effect. Now the remedy: If this were something common like a Southbend, Logan, or Monarch, I'd just try to track down another tailstock. It's a 14" Hendey, 1890's vintage. Probably not going to happen, so probably best to try to repair what I've got. Removing the ram and playing with a mic, I get 1.622 diameter everywhere I measured it. I haven't measured the bore yet. I just got some telescoping gages, so will have actual numbers on that later. My options as I see it a 1. Bore out the tailstock and make a new ram. Probably the simplest option, as the ram itself is fairly simple, 9-1/8" long, 1-5/8" diameter, MT3 socket, LH acme thread on the back for about an inch or two, one 1/8" keyway on the bottom, one oil groove on the top. Possible fly in the ointment: making the new ram without a good tailstock. I do have a steady, but I haven't used it yet. 2. Rebore and have the ram plated and reground. Sounds like this could get expensive in a hurry since I would have to have someone else do this. 3. Rebore and sleeve to fit existing ram. If I do this right, I may be able to bore out to fit standard tubing, pressfit or locktite in place (as I'm not experienced enough to trust my ability to get a good press fit on this), then rebore this insert in place to fit the ram? 4. Shim the clamp end of the tailstock bore with something like sheet brass or aluminum, locktited in place. A hack, if it would work at all. Which would you choose, and why? Are there others that I haven't thought of? (I can hear the rumble of "yeah, get a newer lathe" from the back, and while this may yet happen, it won't be soon). In most these cases, I am looking at reboring the tailstock. Would you expect being able to get anything approaching reasonable results with a boring bar held in a chuck and running in a steadyrest on the far side of the tailstock? The handwheel end of the tailstock casting looks like it doesn't come off, so that end of the bar would have to fit through the root diameter of the leadscrew, maybe 1/2", if that. I'd expect that rigidity could be a problem (understatement). At least the diameter from the chuck up to the cutter could be larger, possibly up to 1-1/2". Any other not-to-obvious gotchas? Thanks, --Glenn Lyford |
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