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Old November 27th 04, 08:15 AM
Gunner
 
Posts: n/a
Default Lincoln AC/DC Tig- Idealarc Tig 250/250 question

I fired up the stick welding side of that Lincoln I brought home,
today. Ive not got an argon bottle or a pump running yets, so havent
been able to fire up the Tig.

First thing I noticed about the stick welding arc on this machine..is
it feels really really harsh. The Dialarc 250 has a much smoother arc
in any mode, AC or DC and its easier to establish an arc and keep it
going smoothly.

This Lincoln seems like its running at much higher heat, from the
sound and ;ook of the arc puddle, and the force of the arc, but welds
no better or worse a bead than the Dialarc. The arc diameter seems to
be far smaller as well, which is wierd. I was burning some 1/8" rod
and it burned a bead like 3/32" would on a straight pass. I found this
most odd..... lots of sound and fury, but a pretty small bead.

Is this something unique to this machine, a combination of reactor etc
etc that makes the arc really harsh?

Its hard for me to explain what I mean by "harsh"..more violent and
stiff an arc..where other machines Ive used give a nice frying bacon
noise, a nice smooth arc with minumum amounts of flying crap, less
under cutting and so forth.

The machine is entirely usable, but this one will take more getting
used to, than about any other stick welder that Ive used over the
years.

Does anyone have a link to a manual to this machine? I cannot for the
life of me figure out which one it is on the Lincoln website

The data plate says Tig 250/250 with a code of 8809

Serial Number AC-U1921105578

I repainted it back to the original Candy Apple Red from the latex off
white someone had painted it and have built a table that bolts to cart
and covers the top of the machine all the way back to the bottle
holder and has lead holders on one side and tig holder on the other,
with filler rod tubes on it as well. Ill post some pictures later in
the weekend when I have all the bells and whistles finished up. Im
trying to design pull handle that either folds away, or is quickly
removable, just to get it out of the way.

A guy gave me some spun aluminum CO2 bottles that at one time or
another belonged to a soft drink supplier (no longer listed in the
phone book) and have manufacturing date codes of 1987 and 1989 stamped
into them, but no later testing dates. Are these doorstops?

A band around them indicate that they were Deposit bottles. Whats the
ramifications of this?

Next question..the Spark Switch. Is this only for use with TIG? It
pops my 60 amp breaker if its turned on and I strike an arc with the
stick.

I had 90' of lead, so cut it 35' for ground clamp and the rest is
connected to a "Short Sub" stinger that Ive had around. Is this too
much lead for this machine?

Thanks

Gunner



Come shed a tear for Michael Moore-
Though he smirked and lied like a two-bit whore
George Bush has just won another four.
Poor, sad little Michael Moore

Diogenes

  #2   Report Post  
Old November 27th 04, 08:41 AM
Ernie Leimkuhler
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article , Gunner
wrote:

I fired up the stick welding side of that Lincoln I brought home,
today. Ive not got an argon bottle or a pump running yets, so havent
been able to fire up the Tig.

First thing I noticed about the stick welding arc on this machine..is
it feels really really harsh. The Dialarc 250 has a much smoother arc
in any mode, AC or DC and its easier to establish an arc and keep it
going smoothly.

This Lincoln seems like its running at much higher heat, from the
sound and ;ook of the arc puddle, and the force of the arc, but welds
no better or worse a bead than the Dialarc. The arc diameter seems to
be far smaller as well, which is wierd. I was burning some 1/8" rod
and it burned a bead like 3/32" would on a straight pass. I found this
most odd..... lots of sound and fury, but a pretty small bead.

Is this something unique to this machine, a combination of reactor etc
etc that makes the arc really harsh?

Its hard for me to explain what I mean by "harsh"..more violent and
stiff an arc..where other machines Ive used give a nice frying bacon
noise, a nice smooth arc with minumum amounts of flying crap, less
under cutting and so forth.


There should be a hot-start adjustment for stick welding.
That should adjust the open-circuit voltage.

The machine is entirely usable, but this one will take more getting
used to, than about any other stick welder that Ive used over the
years.

Does anyone have a link to a manual to this machine? I cannot for the
life of me figure out which one it is on the Lincoln website

The data plate says Tig 250/250 with a code of 8809

Serial Number AC-U1921105578


Unfortunately Lincoln kept using the same name for many different
machines.
Just download them all and find which one matches.


I repainted it back to the original Candy Apple Red from the latex off
white someone had painted it and have built a table that bolts to cart
and covers the top of the machine all the way back to the bottle
holder and has lead holders on one side and tig holder on the other,
with filler rod tubes on it as well. Ill post some pictures later in
the weekend when I have all the bells and whistles finished up. Im
trying to design pull handle that either folds away, or is quickly
removable, just to get it out of the way.


The original color was battleship gray, not red.




A guy gave me some spun aluminum CO2 bottles that at one time or
another belonged to a soft drink supplier (no longer listed in the
phone book) and have manufacturing date codes of 1987 and 1989 stamped
into them, but no later testing dates. Are these doorstops?


Probably.
You could use them as air storage tanks for a punkin chukker.


A band around them indicate that they were Deposit bottles. Whats the
ramifications of this?


They are rental tanks.
Not ownership.

Next question..the Spark Switch. Is this only for use with TIG? It
pops my 60 amp breaker if its turned on and I strike an arc with the
stick.


"spark" is old Lincolnese for High Freq.

I had 90' of lead, so cut it 35' for ground clamp and the rest is
connected to a "Short Sub" stinger that Ive had around. Is this too
much lead for this machine?


Not it should have plenty of juice.

Thanks

Gunner



Come shed a tear for Michael Moore-
Though he smirked and lied like a two-bit whore
George Bush has just won another four.
Poor, sad little Michael Moore

Diogenes

  #3   Report Post  
Old November 27th 04, 10:43 AM
Harold & Susan Vordos
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Ernie Leimkuhler" wrote in message
...
snip------

The original color was battleship gray, not red.

Not on that model. I own the 300/300 (which is gray) and was torn between it
and the 250/250, all of which were red that were on the showroom floor. I
remember it all too well. This was back in the mid 80's.

Harold


  #4   Report Post  
Old November 27th 04, 11:42 AM
Karl Townsend
 
Posts: n/a
Default


Is this something unique to this machine, a combination of reactor etc
etc that makes the arc really harsh?

Its hard for me to explain what I mean by "harsh"..more violent and
stiff an arc..where other machines Ive used give a nice frying bacon
noise, a nice smooth arc with minumum amounts of flying crap, less
under cutting and so forth.


There should be a hot-start adjustment for stick welding.
That should adjust the open-circuit voltage.



I've noticed the same thing on my unit. Always thought welders are just
different. I just went down and looked at my almost identical unit. I don't
see anything that sounds like a hot start adjustment. I'll ask for gunner, I
have these adjustments, have NO CLUE what to do with them:

Afterflow timer: Has electrode sizes listed or desired afterflow min to max.
Spark Intensity: adjusts by knob from low to high
Soft start: On/off
Spark start only: On/off

Any of these related to hot start by chance?

Karl




  #5   Report Post  
Old November 27th 04, 12:51 PM
Waynemak
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I find my 300 amp to be smooth and quite, I will send you an email with the
pdf attached, it is for the 300 amp but most should be the same.
"Gunner" wrote in message
...
I fired up the stick welding side of that Lincoln I brought home,
today. Ive not got an argon bottle or a pump running yets, so havent
been able to fire up the Tig.

First thing I noticed about the stick welding arc on this machine..is
it feels really really harsh. The Dialarc 250 has a much smoother arc
in any mode, AC or DC and its easier to establish an arc and keep it
going smoothly.

This Lincoln seems like its running at much higher heat, from the
sound and ;ook of the arc puddle, and the force of the arc, but welds
no better or worse a bead than the Dialarc. The arc diameter seems to
be far smaller as well, which is wierd. I was burning some 1/8" rod
and it burned a bead like 3/32" would on a straight pass. I found this
most odd..... lots of sound and fury, but a pretty small bead.

Is this something unique to this machine, a combination of reactor etc
etc that makes the arc really harsh?

Its hard for me to explain what I mean by "harsh"..more violent and
stiff an arc..where other machines Ive used give a nice frying bacon
noise, a nice smooth arc with minumum amounts of flying crap, less
under cutting and so forth.

The machine is entirely usable, but this one will take more getting
used to, than about any other stick welder that Ive used over the
years.

Does anyone have a link to a manual to this machine? I cannot for the
life of me figure out which one it is on the Lincoln website

The data plate says Tig 250/250 with a code of 8809

Serial Number AC-U1921105578

I repainted it back to the original Candy Apple Red from the latex off
white someone had painted it and have built a table that bolts to cart
and covers the top of the machine all the way back to the bottle
holder and has lead holders on one side and tig holder on the other,
with filler rod tubes on it as well. Ill post some pictures later in
the weekend when I have all the bells and whistles finished up. Im
trying to design pull handle that either folds away, or is quickly
removable, just to get it out of the way.

A guy gave me some spun aluminum CO2 bottles that at one time or
another belonged to a soft drink supplier (no longer listed in the
phone book) and have manufacturing date codes of 1987 and 1989 stamped
into them, but no later testing dates. Are these doorstops?

A band around them indicate that they were Deposit bottles. Whats the
ramifications of this?

Next question..the Spark Switch. Is this only for use with TIG? It
pops my 60 amp breaker if its turned on and I strike an arc with the
stick.

I had 90' of lead, so cut it 35' for ground clamp and the rest is
connected to a "Short Sub" stinger that Ive had around. Is this too
much lead for this machine?

Thanks

Gunner



Come shed a tear for Michael Moore-
Though he smirked and lied like a two-bit whore
George Bush has just won another four.
Poor, sad little Michael Moore

Diogenes





  #6   Report Post  
Old November 27th 04, 02:50 PM
John L. Weatherly
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Karl Townsend wrote:

I
have these adjustments, have NO CLUE what to do with them:

Afterflow timer: Has electrode sizes listed or desired afterflow min to
max.


This controls the amount of time the gas flows through the torch after you
stop welding. Larger tungsten electrode means takes longer to cool off
with the post flow.

Spark Intensity: adjusts by knob from low to high


High frequency arc start. I adjust mine to be able to start the arc from
about 3/4" from the work.

Soft start: On/off


Gradually ramps up the current when the arc is established.

Spark start only: On/off


High frequency control for establishment of arc. I use the start only
setting on most everything except aluminum. Aluminum needs HF all the time
for arc stability and cleaning.

I don't use the TIG side on my machine a whole lot. Others will be able to
answer in more detail.

Good luck

--
John L. Weatherly
MacGyver Industrial Technologies
Nashville, Tennessee
  #7   Report Post  
Old November 27th 04, 03:01 PM
Gunner
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Sat, 27 Nov 2004 08:41:46 GMT, Ernie Leimkuhler
wrote:

I repainted it back to the original Candy Apple Red from the latex off
white someone had painted it and have built a table that bolts to cart
and covers the top of the machine all the way back to the bottle
holder and has lead holders on one side and tig holder on the other,
with filler rod tubes on it as well. Ill post some pictures later in
the weekend when I have all the bells and whistles finished up. Im
trying to design pull handle that either folds away, or is quickly
removable, just to get it out of the way.


The original color was battleship gray, not red.


The original factory color of this machine is ideed Red. Inside and
out.

Thanks for the reply.

Gunner



Come shed a tear for Michael Moore-
Though he smirked and lied like a two-bit whore
George Bush has just won another four.
Poor, sad little Michael Moore

Diogenes
  #8   Report Post  
Old November 27th 04, 03:22 PM
Gunner
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Sat, 27 Nov 2004 07:51:06 -0500, "Waynemak"
wrote:

I find my 300 amp to be smooth and quite, I will send you an email with the
pdf attached, it is for the 300 amp but most should be the same.


Thanks Wayne. I got it.

There are a number of differences in the controls. I dont have a Spark
Intensity pot and there is a three position switch marked Spark,
(center off) on, and start only. I assume this is the Soft Start?

Can this be used for stick or is it a tig feature only?

The only adjustment pots are afterflow and current.

There are only three power ranges, unlike your 4, which I have seen on
all the other 300 amp machines. ( almost got a 300 amp, until we
found out the transformer was toast)

There is no 110vt receptical in the face plate, and there is only
outputs for gas solenoid, not water.

The manual answered a few questions and presented a few more, that Ill
ask when I get a handle on the machine a lot better.

Many thanks

Gunner



Come shed a tear for Michael Moore-
Though he smirked and lied like a two-bit whore
George Bush has just won another four.
Poor, sad little Michael Moore

Diogenes
  #9   Report Post  
Old November 27th 04, 03:53 PM
Keith Marshall
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Does anyone have a link to a manual to this machine? I cannot for the
life of me figure out which one it is on the Lincoln website
The data plate says Tig 250/250 with a code of 8809


This should be the manual for it:

http://content.lincolnelectric.com/p...IMS/IM315A.pdf

Is this something unique to this machine, a combination of reactor etc
etc that makes the arc really harsh?


It's tough to tell exactly what the current is set to on this machine
because of the different ranges and variable control. Is it maybe set
higher than you think? That might exlain the extra "flying crap" and
undercutting.

Next question..the Spark Switch. Is this only for use with TIG? It
pops my 60 amp breaker if its turned on and I strike an arc with the
stick.


I had the same problem when TIGing on a 50-amp breaker. As soon as my foot
pressed the pedal it would pop about 1/4 of the time if the current was
under 100 amps or so and every time if it was at about 125 amps or more.

IIRC it called for a 90-amp breaker.

Best Regards,
Keith Marshall


"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"



  #10   Report Post  
Old November 27th 04, 05:08 PM
Waynemak
 
Posts: n/a
Default

the 3 way switch, spark , no spark, spark start only is used like this

Spark on is for AC tig work
Spark off is for stick welding
Spark start only is for tig welding with DC


"Gunner" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 27 Nov 2004 07:51:06 -0500, "Waynemak"
wrote:

I find my 300 amp to be smooth and quite, I will send you an email with
the
pdf attached, it is for the 300 amp but most should be the same.


Thanks Wayne. I got it.

There are a number of differences in the controls. I dont have a Spark
Intensity pot and there is a three position switch marked Spark,
(center off) on, and start only. I assume this is the Soft Start?

Can this be used for stick or is it a tig feature only?

The only adjustment pots are afterflow and current.

There are only three power ranges, unlike your 4, which I have seen on
all the other 300 amp machines. ( almost got a 300 amp, until we
found out the transformer was toast)

There is no 110vt receptical in the face plate, and there is only
outputs for gas solenoid, not water.

The manual answered a few questions and presented a few more, that Ill
ask when I get a handle on the machine a lot better.

Many thanks

Gunner



Come shed a tear for Michael Moore-
Though he smirked and lied like a two-bit whore
George Bush has just won another four.
Poor, sad little Michael Moore

Diogenes





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