I took pictures of the moving of my Hardinge TM. They a

http://metalworking.com/DropBox/hardinge_unloading.txt
The text file.

http://metalworking.com/DropBox/hardinge_load.JPG
Dave Ficken loading the mill into a rented pickup. I has a good view of
the pallet.

http://metalworking.com/DropBox/hardinge_trestle.JPG
The rail setup I used to support and guide the mill as I pulled with a
chain hoist.

http://metalworking.com/DropBox/Hardinge_on_ground.JPG
The mill on the ground, waiting to be dragged to the house.


Kevin Gallimore


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axolotl wrote in news:413baa94$1_7
@corp.newsgroups.com:

I took pictures of the moving of my Hardinge TM. They a

http://metalworking.com/DropBox/hardinge_unloading.txt
The text file.

http://metalworking.com/DropBox/hardinge_load.JPG
Dave Ficken loading the mill into a rented pickup. I has a good view of
the pallet.

http://metalworking.com/DropBox/hardinge_trestle.JPG
The rail setup I used to support and guide the mill as I pulled with a
chain hoist.

http://metalworking.com/DropBox/Hardinge_on_ground.JPG
The mill on the ground, waiting to be dragged to the house.


Kevin Gallimore

Congratulations on the new toy Kevin. I think you have already hooked up
with the Hardinge Mill Yahoogroup. Did you get the overarm support and an
arbor? Sweet that the spindle is native 5C.
Marty

Very clever. But I'm curious. How are you going to move it into your shop?

"axolotl" wrote in message
...
I took pictures of the moving of my Hardinge TM. They a

http://metalworking.com/DropBox/hardinge_unloading.txt
The text file.

http://metalworking.com/DropBox/hardinge_load.JPG
Dave Ficken loading the mill into a rented pickup. I has a good view of
the pallet.

http://metalworking.com/DropBox/hardinge_trestle.JPG
The rail setup I used to support and guide the mill as I pulled with a
chain hoist.

http://metalworking.com/DropBox/Hardinge_on_ground.JPG
The mill on the ground, waiting to be dragged to the house.


Kevin Gallimore


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AL wrote:
How are you going to move it into your shop?


A better question might be "Where are you going to put it once you get
it in there". My shop is in a walk-out basement that has a pair of doors
that give a 9 ft. wide opening. The basement is precast concrete that
has 10 in. deep reinforced concrete "studs" with holes cast in them. I
will attach a hoist to the stud on the far side of the room, put some
1/2 in. pipe under the pallet rails and pull the mill inside. The shop
side of the basement has an I-beam running down the center. I will put
the mill under the beam, and use the hoist to lift the mill clear of the
pallet, remove the pallet, put pipe under the mill, push the mill into
place and remove the pipe.

The mill is outside the door now as I work to get 56 years of crud off
of it.

Kevin Gallimore


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In article , axolotl says...

The basement is precast concrete that
has 10 in. deep reinforced concrete "studs" with holes cast in them. I
will attach a hoist to the stud on the far side of the room, put some
1/2 in. pipe under the pallet rails and pull the mill inside.

Just be aware of the fact that masonry does not have a terribly high
tensile strength. I am reminded of the "On High Steel" story of
a construction crew that decided to jack a steel frame in progress
by bracing against a nearby brownstone. Yep, the brownstone fell
down. Granted your stud is reinforced concrete and the brownstone
was mortared brick. If the mill really is on rollers you should
have no problem.

I dismantled mine to slide it down the exterior basement shop
stairs - and placed the column back on the base using a hoist
working against a pulley mounted to an overhead rafter. But
I was concerned enough to block the rafter with 4x4s on each
side before doing so. The column alone on that machine is
pretty darn heavy.

Jim


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On 6 Sep 2004 20:22:21 -0700, jim rozen
wrote:

In article , axolotl says...

The basement is precast concrete that
has 10 in. deep reinforced concrete "studs" with holes cast in them. I
will attach a hoist to the stud on the far side of the room, put some
1/2 in. pipe under the pallet rails and pull the mill inside.

Just be aware of the fact that masonry does not have a terribly high
tensile strength. I am reminded of the "On High Steel" story of
a construction crew that decided to jack a steel frame in progress
by bracing against a nearby brownstone. Yep, the brownstone fell
down. Granted your stud is reinforced concrete and the brownstone
was mortared brick. If the mill really is on rollers you should
have no problem.

I dismantled mine to slide it down the exterior basement shop
stairs - and placed the column back on the base using a hoist
working against a pulley mounted to an overhead rafter. But
I was concerned enough to block the rafter with 4x4s on each
side before doing so. The column alone on that machine is
pretty darn heavy.

Jim

Good advice Jim , I was thinking the same thing. I also noticed that
the far 4X4 had the knots horizontal they should be vertical or pick
the right part of the tree when buying them. More than two would have
been safer. I'd be more worried about screwing up the house , it would
be next to impossible to replace the bent beam.

jim rozen wrote:

Just be aware of the fact that masonry does not have a terribly high
tensile strength. I am reminded of the "On High Steel" story of
a construction crew that decided to jack a steel frame in progress
by bracing against a nearby brownstone. Yep, the brownstone fell
down. Granted your stud is reinforced concrete and the brownstone
was mortared brick. If the mill really is on rollers you should
have no problem.

This is steel reinforced 5000 PSI concrete, with fibers and rebar
between me and the cast hole. It's also held in place by the poured
concrete floor around it, and the wall behind it.

http://www.superiorwalls.com/images/R5XiFlyer2page.pdf

Having one's house fall down around you would certainly cause one to
question the method in use.

Kevin Gallimore


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Sunworshipper wrote:

I also noticed that
the far 4X4 had the knots horizontal they should be vertical or pick
the right part of the tree when buying them.

The 4x4s were pressure treated. The timber that is used for that purpose
is usually "boxed heart", the center of the tree that is left after the
veneer is peeled off to make plywood. The knots go from the center out.
To get a "good" 4x4 I'd have to drop a tree and cut it myself.

More than two would have
been safer. I'd be more worried about screwing up the house , it would
be next to impossible to replace the bent beam.

The beam was put in for the purpose. It is a 4x12 I beam in addition to
the lumber beam that supports the house. The problem of the moment is
headroom. The bottom of the beam is seven feet from the floor. The mill
is about five and a half feet high on the pallet. My chain hoist is old,
heavy and big. I will need to get another lifting device that can fit in
the space.

Kevin Gallimore


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In article , axolotl says...

The beam was put in for the purpose. It is a 4x12 I beam in addition to
the lumber beam that supports the house. The problem of the moment is
headroom. The bottom of the beam is seven feet from the floor. The mill
is about five and a half feet high on the pallet. My chain hoist is old,
heavy and big. I will need to get another lifting device that can fit in
the space.

Ah headroom. That was my problem also. Because I broke the
base, chip pan, and column apart it was a bit easier.

In my case I drilled a hole in the 2x10 rafter aobve whre I wanted to
assemble the mill. I passed a steel pin though that hole, and
disassembled my come-along and mounted the single pulley to the
steel pin in the overhead. The cable ran vertically from the
load hook, over the pulley, and then horizontally to come-along
itself which was hooked to another steel pin in another drilled
hole farther along the same rafter.

As mentioned I blocked the rafter on both sides.

The 4x4 verticals were loaded under compression, and the
rafter was also loaded under compression from the cable
tension.

I passed a sling around the overarm and connected on to the
load hook. The column was on a dolly so it centered up
nicely under the lift.

After bringing it up (nearly two-blocked) I moved the
already assembled base and chip pan underneath, and gently
lowered it down.

My strong suspicion is that if I had to do this without a
hoist, the best way would be to sling a 4x4 along the
length of the overarm, and bolt two more pieces crosswised
at the ends. Then four strong individuals could probably
lift in unison and pick the column right up - with one
person at each of the four ends thus formed.

Jim


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==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================

On 7 Sep 2004 18:08:02 -0700, jim rozen
wrote:

In article , axolotl says...

The beam was put in for the purpose. It is a 4x12 I beam in addition to
the lumber beam that supports the house. The problem of the moment is
headroom. The bottom of the beam is seven feet from the floor. The mill
is about five and a half feet high on the pallet. My chain hoist is old,
heavy and big. I will need to get another lifting device that can fit in
the space.

Ah headroom. That was my problem also. Because I broke the
base, chip pan, and column apart it was a bit easier.

In my case I drilled a hole in the 2x10 rafter aobve whre I wanted to
assemble the mill. I passed a steel pin though that hole, and
disassembled my come-along and mounted the single pulley to the
steel pin in the overhead. The cable ran vertically from the
load hook, over the pulley, and then horizontally to come-along
itself which was hooked to another steel pin in another drilled
hole farther along the same rafter.

As mentioned I blocked the rafter on both sides.

The 4x4 verticals were loaded under compression, and the
rafter was also loaded under compression from the cable
tension.

I passed a sling around the overarm and connected on to the
load hook. The column was on a dolly so it centered up
nicely under the lift.

After bringing it up (nearly two-blocked) I moved the
already assembled base and chip pan underneath, and gently
lowered it down.

My strong suspicion is that if I had to do this without a
hoist, the best way would be to sling a 4x4 along the
length of the overarm, and bolt two more pieces crosswised
at the ends. Then four strong individuals could probably
lift in unison and pick the column right up - with one
person at each of the four ends thus formed.

Jim

On 7 Sep 2004 18:08:02 -0700, jim rozen
wrote:

In article , axolotl says...

The beam was put in for the purpose. It is a 4x12 I beam in addition to
the lumber beam that supports the house. The problem of the moment is
headroom. The bottom of the beam is seven feet from the floor. The mill
is about five and a half feet high on the pallet. My chain hoist is old,
heavy and big. I will need to get another lifting device that can fit in
the space.

Ah headroom. That was my problem also. Because I broke the
base, chip pan, and column apart it was a bit easier.

In my case I drilled a hole in the 2x10 rafter aobve whre I wanted to
assemble the mill. I passed a steel pin though that hole, and
disassembled my come-along and mounted the single pulley to the
steel pin in the overhead. The cable ran vertically from the
load hook, over the pulley, and then horizontally to come-along
itself which was hooked to another steel pin in another drilled
hole farther along the same rafter.

As mentioned I blocked the rafter on both sides.

The 4x4 verticals were loaded under compression, and the
rafter was also loaded under compression from the cable
tension.

I passed a sling around the overarm and connected on to the
load hook. The column was on a dolly so it centered up
nicely under the lift.

After bringing it up (nearly two-blocked) I moved the
already assembled base and chip pan underneath, and gently
lowered it down.

My strong suspicion is that if I had to do this without a
hoist, the best way would be to sling a 4x4 along the
length of the overarm, and bolt two more pieces crosswised
at the ends. Then four strong individuals could probably
lift in unison and pick the column right up - with one
person at each of the four ends thus formed.

Jim

I'll bet you could, too. It's heavy, but not unmanageable. I set the
column on mine by sticking a 1" pipe through the overarm support hole,
tied so it couldn't shift, then got my wife and son on one end and me
on the other. I told them to lift it a little off the ground, and if
it felt too heavy to set it back down. They said it was fine, and we
picked it up and set it on the base and pan. The overarm hole was at
a height which allowed all of us to keep our backs straight and lift
with our legs. The side step to set it down was the biggest risk, but
really wasn't an issue because we took our time. Of course, we're all
pretty good size, ymmv.

Pete Keillor