Hey everyone,

Thanks for all the assistance on my search for a knuckleboom truck. I
found one with a smaller boom than I wanted, but I didn't want to deal
with the whole CDL/medical/BUTTLOAD-of-Insurance issues.

I did a bunch of research and found an '82 GMC series 70 with a
flatbed and knuckleboom (23' and 8,000 lbs).

NOW, I have a problem... all the GMCs I found online were between
23,000 lbs and 25,500 lbs (26,001 is the magic number for the CDL).

I got home and was shocked to see *THIS* GMC is rated at 27,500 gross!

Is there any way I can get it DE rated 1,500 lbs? For godsake, this
truck can only go 30 mph up hills EMPTY, I shutter at the thought of
what it would do FULLY LOADED.

Help! Help! Help!

James, Port Orchard, Washington, USA, Earth


(PS: This is ALL about 'metalworking' since the truck is what I need
to GET my metal and Installed Sculpture. ) hehe

RainLover wrote:
...snippage...
Is there any way I can get it DE rated 1,500 lbs?

GMC probably just made a mistake and now you have an opportunity to
correct that error. Remove the weight decals. Paint. Place new weight
decals that more accurately reflect your *feelings* about the truck.

It's all about *feeling* good. ;-)
--
Doug
http://www.des.indianchief.com/index.htm

RainLover writes:

NOW, I have a problem... all the GMCs I found online were between
23,000 lbs and 25,500 lbs (26,001 is the magic number for the CDL).

I got home and was shocked to see *THIS* GMC is rated at 27,500 gross!

Is there any way I can get it DE rated 1,500 lbs?

In some states, it might be as simple as registering it in a
lower weight class. Your state DOT could certainly answer this,
if you can find the right person to talk to.

Wisconsin used to have an office that answered CDL-related
questions (among other things), but I don't remember what it was
called.

In article , RainLover
wrote:

Hey everyone,

Thanks for all the assistance on my search for a knuckleboom truck. I
found one with a smaller boom than I wanted, but I didn't want to deal
with the whole CDL/medical/BUTTLOAD-of-Insurance issues.

I did a bunch of research and found an '82 GMC series 70 with a
flatbed and knuckleboom (23' and 8,000 lbs).

NOW, I have a problem... all the GMCs I found online were between
23,000 lbs and 25,500 lbs (26,001 is the magic number for the CDL).

I got home and was shocked to see *THIS* GMC is rated at 27,500 gross!

Is there any way I can get it DE rated 1,500 lbs? For godsake, this
truck can only go 30 mph up hills EMPTY, I shutter at the thought of
what it would do FULLY LOADED.

Help! Help! Help!

James, Port Orchard, Washington, USA, Earth


(PS: This is ALL about 'metalworking' since the truck is what I need
to GET my metal and Installed Sculpture. ) hehe


There is a guy in at the DOL in Olympia that deals with just such cases.
I chatted with him about how converting my 85 1-ton toyota pickup to a
flatbead affected it's registration.
He is a very reasonable guy.

On Wed, 01 Sep 2004 17:04:26 GMT, Doug Smith
wrote:

RainLover wrote:
...snippage...
Is there any way I can get it DE rated 1,500 lbs?

GMC probably just made a mistake and now you have an opportunity to
correct that error. Remove the weight decals. Paint. Place new weight
decals that more accurately reflect your *feelings* about the truck.

It's all about *feeling* good. ;-)

LOL, I thought about it... but there's no decals on the truck... the
only place it's written is on the door placard... and rivits are so
easily removed. hehe

I'd rather do it legally, but if they give me no option. . .. LOL

James, Seattle

On Wed, 01 Sep 2004 17:28:59 GMT, Ernie Leimkuhler
wrote:

In article , RainLover
wrote:

Hey everyone,

Thanks for all the assistance on my search for a knuckleboom truck. I
found one with a smaller boom than I wanted, but I didn't want to deal
with the whole CDL/medical/BUTTLOAD-of-Insurance issues.

I did a bunch of research and found an '82 GMC series 70 with a
flatbed and knuckleboom (23' and 8,000 lbs).

NOW, I have a problem... all the GMCs I found online were between
23,000 lbs and 25,500 lbs (26,001 is the magic number for the CDL).

I got home and was shocked to see *THIS* GMC is rated at 27,500 gross!

Is there any way I can get it DE rated 1,500 lbs? For godsake, this
truck can only go 30 mph up hills EMPTY, I shutter at the thought of
what it would do FULLY LOADED.

Help! Help! Help!

James, Port Orchard, Washington, USA, Earth


(PS: This is ALL about 'metalworking' since the truck is what I need
to GET my metal and Installed Sculpture. ) hehe


There is a guy in at the DOL in Olympia that deals with just such cases.
I chatted with him about how converting my 85 1-ton toyota pickup to a
flatbead affected it's registration.
He is a very reasonable guy.

I'm emailing some one at the DOL about it now... I just gave them the
VIN and license... I hope it's the same reasonable guy!

james, Seattle

RainLover wrote in message . ..
Hey everyone,

Thanks for all the assistance on my search for a knuckleboom truck. I
found one with a smaller boom than I wanted, but I didn't want to deal
with the whole CDL/medical/BUTTLOAD-of-Insurance issues.

I did a bunch of research and found an '82 GMC series 70 with a
flatbed and knuckleboom (23' and 8,000 lbs).

NOW, I have a problem... all the GMCs I found online were between
23,000 lbs and 25,500 lbs (26,001 is the magic number for the CDL).

I got home and was shocked to see *THIS* GMC is rated at 27,500 gross!

Is there any way I can get it DE rated 1,500 lbs? For godsake, this
truck can only go 30 mph up hills EMPTY, I shutter at the thought of
what it would do FULLY LOADED.

Help! Help! Help!

James, Port Orchard, Washington, USA, Earth

Unless it has a feature that automatically makes it CDL-only (air
brakes, over certain weight empty, others?, depending on the state),
in most states you simply register it at the max gross weight you will
use that is under CDL limits. Don't ever get caught over registered
gross, though! Check with your DMV for sure, but you are probably OK.
Is it currently registered as CDL-only weight? That may make a
difference, too.




(PS: This is ALL about 'metalworking' since the truck is what I need
to GET my metal and Installed Sculpture. ) hehe

"RainLover" wrote in message
...
Hey everyone,

Thanks for all the assistance on my search for a knuckleboom truck. I
found one with a smaller boom than I wanted, but I didn't want to deal
with the whole CDL/medical/BUTTLOAD-of-Insurance issues.

I did a bunch of research and found an '82 GMC series 70 with a
flatbed and knuckleboom (23' and 8,000 lbs).

NOW, I have a problem... all the GMCs I found online were between
23,000 lbs and 25,500 lbs (26,001 is the magic number for the CDL).

I got home and was shocked to see *THIS* GMC is rated at 27,500 gross!

Is there any way I can get it DE rated 1,500 lbs? For godsake, this
truck can only go 30 mph up hills EMPTY, I shutter at the thought of
what it would do FULLY LOADED.

Help! Help! Help!

James, Port Orchard, Washington, USA, Earth

NY State is probably stricter than most. I had a similar inquiry regarding
trailer gross weights. DOT here goes by the manufacturer's gross rating when
determining what license is required, regardless of registration. Your state
may be more liberal.

In about 1986 or so all the states got together to work out a more uniform
CDL system. This basically made the 26,000 rule a nationwide factor in whether
a truck was CDL rated or not. It also DOES NOT matter what weight class plates
you put on the vehicle or how much it weights at any one time, its all about
the mighty plate that states what the truck is rated for(GVWR). There are other
factors as well, commercial use, air brakes, towing a trailer with a GVWR over
10,000lbs. Thats right, don't get caught towing a trailer with a GVWR in excess
of 10k without a valid CDL, that is a crime these days.
I personally own two big trucks, one with a 35,500 GVWR and the other is
29,860GVWR. I license both at 26,000lbs. My trailer is good for 24K and its
plated at 20K, the extra 4K would almost double the cost of plates. Getting
your CDL is pretty easy unless you are taking some of the harder to get
endorsements(tanker, hazmat, double/triples,etc. I took the tests for all the
endorsements and my truck and trailer combo qualified me for the A class CDL
which means I can drive anything on the road. My insurance is no more than my
automobile insurance and from what I have been told by others if you are the
owner/non-commercial use they don't really require the physical. If they do I
will cross that bridge when I get to it.

tim

On Wed, 01 Sep 2004 07:29:04 -0700, RainLover
wrote:

Is there any way I can get it DE rated 1,500 lbs? For godsake, this
truck can only go 30 mph up hills EMPTY, I shutter at the thought of
what it would do FULLY LOADED.

There's one way I can see doing it - whether it can be done to
legally derate the truck for registration purposes in the eyes of your
state DMV is another thing entirely...

Write GMC Corporate and ask what happens to the GVWR rating if you
take one leaf off the bottom of the rear spring stack, and use a
shorter center locating pin/bolt. Might be just enough.

It's that or change the tires and rims - let them be the weak link.

-- Bruce --
--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.

Contact the body manufacturer/installer if they are still in business. The
body's manufacturer not GMC, certifies the truck's gvw.GMC is an incomplete
vechile manufacutuer in this case as all they supplied was a cab and chassis.
When the body is mounted on the truck a sticker is put on the door jamb usally,
with axle and gross weight ratings for a certain size and ply of tire. This
sticker is now the weight ratings for the truck. Recertification is normally
done by a body builder/installer.
Think about this a little,GMC has no way of knowing what the truck will look
like or weigh in its final form when all they supply is a cab and chassis.

David Steger

"POPUP5" wrote in message
...
Contact the body manufacturer/installer if they are still in business. The
body's manufacturer not GMC, certifies the truck's gvw.GMC is an
incomplete
vechile manufacutuer in this case as all they supplied was a cab and
chassis.
When the body is mounted on the truck a sticker is put on the door jamb
usally,
with axle and gross weight ratings for a certain size and ply of tire.
This
sticker is now the weight ratings for the truck. Recertification is
normally
done by a body builder/installer.
Think about this a little,GMC has no way of knowing what the truck will
look
like or weigh in its final form when all they supply is a cab and chassis.

David Steger

Or possibly GMC doesn't care what the final product will be. They do know
how THEY built the truck and likely put the ratings on the door jamb for the
equipment that was installed by GMC. Even though it is essentially a
useless vehicle when it leaves the factory, it still has a GVWR. It is then
the responsibility of the body builder to update these numbers for the
modifications they do.

Shawn

Off Topic?

My driver's license says I'm a 5-year good driver. Whew! But that's
for driving a passenger car.

In reality, when I see real expert tractor-trailer drivers handle
their rigs I'm impressed. I'd like to get licensed to be able to drive
a 5th wheel etc. Does anybody have suggestions as to which type of
driving schools are the most beneficial to teach real skills?

I'm sure with enough practice and the right training one could pull
large trailers safely and be a better car driver (and parker) as well.

(Richard) writes:

In reality, when I see real expert tractor-trailer drivers handle
their rigs I'm impressed. I'd like to get licensed to be able to drive
a 5th wheel etc. Does anybody have suggestions as to which type of
driving schools are the most beneficial to teach real skills?

It's mostly just practice. Those guys make it look easy because
they do it all day, every day. The schools get you to the point
where you can pass the road test, but I'm sure most of the skill
comes from experience. The hardest part is backing into loading
docks (local drivers do this many times a day).

You'd probably get the most benefit from practicing with whatever
kind of trailer you plan to tow. When my dad bought his first
trailer, he spent some time backing up and down the street, just
for practice.

I'm sure with enough practice and the right training one could pull
large trailers safely and be a better car driver (and parker) as well.

I've heard varying opinions about that. The power/weight ratio is
very different.