A common tool in a mold shop (I am told) is a siide hammer pin puller.
I don't have one, but I have had to pull a few pins. If the end of the
pin has a flat what I have done is drill and tap it, then drill and
pilot drill a larger piece of stock to make a pulling sleeve. One hole
is large enough to fit over the pin, and the next is clearance size for
a machine screw. I hold the sleeve, and screw in a machine screw. This
draw the pin right out of the hole. Works similarly to a bearing or
wheel puller.

There are a couple problems. First is its slow, and often I can't find
the last one I made and its faster to just make another one. Next is
that often there is little or no flat on the pin I need to pull. For
alignment pins in molds I put a radius on the end so that the molds go
together faster and easier for the end users.

I can quite often get a grip on a pin with a pair of vise grips and
twist it, but its extremely difficult to twist it out. What I have
heard of, read, and been told a couple times is that lot of guys will
take a pair of Vise Grip pliers and make a slide hammer out of them, by
replacing the adjusting screw with a piece of decently tough rod like
4140 with a knob on the end. Then put a slide weight on the rod. They
grip the pin with the pliers and knock it out with the slide hammer
portion.

I can certainly make the slide hammer as a replacement for the
adjustment screw, but I wonder how long the slide bar needs to be to be
effective. I imagine if its to short you wont be able to get much
striking force without straining yourself, and if its to long it will be
awkward to use and to store. If I were to hold a small mold in my hand
I can't imagine being comfortable with more than about 16 inches of rod.
Maybe 10-12 inches of hammer travel. If I clamp a larger mold to a
bench I might be able to go a bit further, but striking up could be
awkward if its to long.

Then there is weight. I'm pretty comfortable with a 3lb cross pien
hammer. When I need to move something with a hammer that's the one I
reach for, but this is a whole different movement. Would 2 pounds be
more easy to control? Would 4 lbs deliver more usable force due to
limited striking distance?

On 8/28/2019 8:40 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
A common tool in a mold shop (I am told) is a siide hammer pin puller. I
don't have one, but I have had to pull a few pins.Â* If the end of the
pin has a flat what I have done is drill and tap it, then drill and
pilot drill a larger piece of stock to make a pulling sleeve.Â* One hole
is large enough to fit over the pin, and the next is clearance size for
a machine screw.Â* I hold the sleeve, and screw in a machine screw.Â* This
draw the pin right out of the hole.Â* Works similarly to a bearing or
wheel puller.

There are a couple problems.Â* First is its slow, and often I can't find
the last one I made and its faster to just make another one.Â* Next is
that often there is little or no flat on the pin I need to pull.Â* For
alignment pins in molds I put a radius on the end so that the molds go
together faster and easier for the end users.

I can quite often get a grip on a pin with a pair of vise grips and
twist it, but its extremely difficult to twist it out.Â* What I have
heard of, read, and been told a couple times is that lot of guys will
take a pair of Vise Grip pliers and make a slide hammer out of them, by
replacing the adjusting screw with a piece of decently tough rod like
4140 with a knob on the end. Then put a slide weight on the rod.Â* They
grip the pin with the pliers and knock it out with the slide hammer
portion.

I can certainly make the slide hammer as a replacement for the
adjustment screw, but I wonder how long the slide bar needs to be to be
effective.Â* I imagine if its to short you wont be able to get much
striking force without straining yourself, and if its to long it will be
awkward to use and to store.Â* If I were to hold a small mold in my hand
I can't imagine being comfortable with more than about 16 inches of rod.
Â*Maybe 10-12 inches of hammer travel.Â* If I clamp a larger mold to a
bench I might be able to go a bit further, but striking up could be
awkward if its to long.

Then there is weight.Â* I'm pretty comfortable with a 3lb cross pien
hammer.Â* When I need to move something with a hammer that's the one I
reach for, but this is a whole different movement.Â* Would 2 pounds be
more easy to control?Â* Would 4 lbs deliver more usable force due to
limited striking distance?



P.S. I'm frugal and I hate to waste stock making two or three of them.
(Ok cheap.) Whatever I make is likely to be what I live with
indefinitely.

I'm tempted to snark "Long enough for you to use, and no heavier
than needs to be" The numeric values are to be left as an exercise
for the student.
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone."

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
A common tool in a mold shop (I am told) is a siide hammer pin
puller. I don't have one, but I have had to pull a few pins. If the
end of the pin has a flat what I have done is drill and tap it, then
drill and pilot drill a larger piece of stock to make a pulling
sleeve. One hole is large enough to fit over the pin, and the next
is clearance size for a machine screw. I hold the sleeve, and screw
in a machine screw. This draw the pin right out of the hole. Works
similarly to a bearing or wheel puller.

There are a couple problems. First is its slow, and often I can't
find the last one I made and its faster to just make another one.
Next is that often there is little or no flat on the pin I need to
pull. For alignment pins in molds I put a radius on the end so that
the molds go together faster and easier for the end users.

I can quite often get a grip on a pin with a pair of vise grips and
twist it, but its extremely difficult to twist it out. What I have
heard of, read, and been told a couple times is that lot of guys
will take a pair of Vise Grip pliers and make a slide hammer out of
them, by replacing the adjusting screw with a piece of decently
tough rod like 4140 with a knob on the end. Then put a slide weight
on the rod. They grip the pin with the pliers and knock it out with
the slide hammer portion.

I can certainly make the slide hammer as a replacement for the
adjustment screw, but I wonder how long the slide bar needs to be to
be effective. I imagine if its to short you wont be able to get
much striking force without straining yourself, and if its to long
it will be awkward to use and to store. If I were to hold a small
mold in my hand I can't imagine being comfortable with more than
about 16 inches of rod. Maybe 10-12 inches of hammer travel. If I
clamp a larger mold to a bench I might be able to go a bit further,
but striking up could be awkward if its to long.

Then there is weight. I'm pretty comfortable with a 3lb cross pien
hammer. When I need to move something with a hammer that's the one
I reach for, but this is a whole different movement. Would 2 pounds
be more easy to control? Would 4 lbs deliver more usable force due
to limited striking distance?


https://www.amazon.com/OTC-Reversibl.../dp/B000O809QI
5 pounds, 27" long, protective hand grip flanges on the weight.

Some models come with Vise-Grip adapters;
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....19mlVVOzYL.pdf

The adjuster screw thread on my old Vise-Grips is 7/16-14.

On Wed, 28 Aug 2019 08:47:26 -0700
Bob La Londe wrote:

snip
P.S. I'm frugal and I hate to waste stock making two or three of them.
(Ok cheap.) Whatever I make is likely to be what I live with
indefinitely.

Strong Hand Tools makes one:

http://stronghandtools.com/stronghan...tronggrip-ppd/

or you could make your own like Jody did that uses a generic slide
hammer:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFdA01l32u8

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

On Wednesday, August 28, 2019 at 10:40:22 AM UTC-5, Bob La Londe wrote:
A common tool in a mold shop (I am told) is a siide hammer pin puller.
I don't have one, but I have had to pull a few pins. If the end of the
pin has a flat what I have done is drill and tap it, then drill and
pilot drill a larger piece of stock to make a pulling sleeve. One hole
is large enough to fit over the pin, and the next is clearance size for
a machine screw. I hold the sleeve, and screw in a machine screw. This
draw the pin right out of the hole. Works similarly to a bearing or
wheel puller.

There are a couple problems. First is its slow, and often I can't find
the last one I made and its faster to just make another one. Next is
that often there is little or no flat on the pin I need to pull. For
alignment pins in molds I put a radius on the end so that the molds go
together faster and easier for the end users.

I can quite often get a grip on a pin with a pair of vise grips and
twist it, but its extremely difficult to twist it out. What I have
heard of, read, and been told a couple times is that lot of guys will
take a pair of Vise Grip pliers and make a slide hammer out of them, by
replacing the adjusting screw with a piece of decently tough rod like
4140 with a knob on the end. Then put a slide weight on the rod. They
grip the pin with the pliers and knock it out with the slide hammer
portion.

I can certainly make the slide hammer as a replacement for the
adjustment screw, but I wonder how long the slide bar needs to be to be
effective. I imagine if its to short you wont be able to get much
striking force without straining yourself, and if its to long it will be
awkward to use and to store. If I were to hold a small mold in my hand
I can't imagine being comfortable with more than about 16 inches of rod.
Maybe 10-12 inches of hammer travel. If I clamp a larger mold to a
bench I might be able to go a bit further, but striking up could be
awkward if its to long.

Then there is weight. I'm pretty comfortable with a 3lb cross pien
hammer. When I need to move something with a hammer that's the one I
reach for, but this is a whole different movement. Would 2 pounds be
more easy to control? Would 4 lbs deliver more usable force due to
limited striking distance?
https://regismanufacturing.com/autom...er-kit-ka-600/
This is what I use to pull flywheel dowel pins before grinding the flywheel.

On 8/28/2019 10:29 AM, Al Bosch wrote:
On Wednesday, August 28, 2019 at 10:40:22 AM UTC-5, Bob La Londe wrote:
A common tool in a mold shop (I am told) is a siide hammer pin puller.
I don't have one, but I have had to pull a few pins. If the end of the
pin has a flat what I have done is drill and tap it, then drill and
pilot drill a larger piece of stock to make a pulling sleeve. One hole
is large enough to fit over the pin, and the next is clearance size for
a machine screw. I hold the sleeve, and screw in a machine screw. This
draw the pin right out of the hole. Works similarly to a bearing or
wheel puller.

There are a couple problems. First is its slow, and often I can't find
the last one I made and its faster to just make another one. Next is
that often there is little or no flat on the pin I need to pull. For
alignment pins in molds I put a radius on the end so that the molds go
together faster and easier for the end users.

I can quite often get a grip on a pin with a pair of vise grips and
twist it, but its extremely difficult to twist it out. What I have
heard of, read, and been told a couple times is that lot of guys will
take a pair of Vise Grip pliers and make a slide hammer out of them, by
replacing the adjusting screw with a piece of decently tough rod like
4140 with a knob on the end. Then put a slide weight on the rod. They
grip the pin with the pliers and knock it out with the slide hammer
portion.

I can certainly make the slide hammer as a replacement for the
adjustment screw, but I wonder how long the slide bar needs to be to be
effective. I imagine if its to short you wont be able to get much
striking force without straining yourself, and if its to long it will be
awkward to use and to store. If I were to hold a small mold in my hand
I can't imagine being comfortable with more than about 16 inches of rod.
Maybe 10-12 inches of hammer travel. If I clamp a larger mold to a
bench I might be able to go a bit further, but striking up could be
awkward if its to long.

Then there is weight. I'm pretty comfortable with a 3lb cross pien
hammer. When I need to move something with a hammer that's the one I
reach for, but this is a whole different movement. Would 2 pounds be
more easy to control? Would 4 lbs deliver more usable force due to
limited striking distance?

https://regismanufacturing.com/autom...er-kit-ka-600/
This is what I use to pull flywheel dowel pins before grinding the flywheel.

That's pretty slick using a collet chuck instead of a clamp or clamping
plier. I might try it, but the pins I am pulling are pretty cheap. I
buy them 1000 at a time. Throwing one away is no big deal. I don't
expect to be pulling pins every day.

On 8/28/2019 10:07 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:
On Wed, 28 Aug 2019 08:47:26 -0700
Bob La Londe wrote:

snip
P.S. I'm frugal and I hate to waste stock making two or three of them.
(Ok cheap.) Whatever I make is likely to be what I live with
indefinitely.

Strong Hand Tools makes one:


http://stronghandtools.com/stronghan...tronggrip-ppd/

or you could make your own like Jody did that uses a generic slide
hammer:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFdA01l32u8


I'm glad you showed me that one. First he looks like he uses a shorter
hammer. Closer to the length I was thinking of, but he also reminded me
of something I had thought of before, but had forgotten. Lining up the
hammer rod with the pulling point so you don't mess up the hole when
pulling the pin. Thanks. I'll probably make almost exactly that setup.

.... well except that I'll probably use stock I have on hand rather than
buying a slide hammer just to toss most of the parts in a drawer to be
forgotten.

On Wed, 28 Aug 2019 08:47:26 -0700, Bob La Londe
wrote:

On 8/28/2019 8:40 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
A common tool in a mold shop (I am told) is a siide hammer pin puller. I
don't have one, but I have had to pull a few pins.* If the end of the
pin has a flat what I have done is drill and tap it, then drill and
pilot drill a larger piece of stock to make a pulling sleeve.* One hole
is large enough to fit over the pin, and the next is clearance size for
a machine screw.* I hold the sleeve, and screw in a machine screw.* This
draw the pin right out of the hole.* Works similarly to a bearing or
wheel puller.

There are a couple problems.* First is its slow, and often I can't find
the last one I made and its faster to just make another one.* Next is
that often there is little or no flat on the pin I need to pull.* For
alignment pins in molds I put a radius on the end so that the molds go
together faster and easier for the end users.

The best place for a puller is on the wall of your shop. It's out of
the way, is easily dusted snort, and it's visible for quick pick
when you need it.

I can quite often get a grip on a pin with a pair of vise grips and
twist it, but its extremely difficult to twist it out.* What I have
heard of, read, and been told a couple times is that lot of guys will
take a pair of Vise Grip pliers and make a slide hammer out of them, by
replacing the adjusting screw with a piece of decently tough rod like
4140 with a knob on the end. Then put a slide weight on the rod.* They
grip the pin with the pliers and knock it out with the slide hammer
portion.

I have a 6" pair of needle nose pliers dedicated to that use.
They work best when you don't need an exactly straight shot.


I can certainly make the slide hammer as a replacement for the
adjustment screw, but I wonder how long the slide bar needs to be to be
effective.* I imagine if its to short you wont be able to get much
striking force without straining yourself, and if its to long it will be
awkward to use and to store.* If I were to hold a small mold in my hand
I can't imagine being comfortable with more than about 16 inches of rod.
*Maybe 10-12 inches of hammer travel.* If I clamp a larger mold to a
bench I might be able to go a bit further, but striking up could be
awkward if its to long.

Then there is weight.* I'm pretty comfortable with a 3lb cross pien
hammer.* When I need to move something with a hammer that's the one I
reach for, but this is a whole different movement.* Would 2 pounds be
more easy to control?* Would 4 lbs deliver more usable force due to
limited striking distance?

Smaller weights can work better. For limited areas, try a 1/2#
weight. It's light enough to get up to a decent speed and that gives
a decent smack when it does. If the pins are that tight, sand them
down so they're easier to fit. What's a tenth among friends?


P.S. I'm frugal and I hate to waste stock making two or three of them.
(Ok cheap.) Whatever I make is likely to be what I live with
indefinitely.

I grok that in its entirety, sir. (Me arse squeaks when I walk, too.)

My current slide hammer is maybe #2 with a 16-18" travel, and it will
pull truck axles/bearings.

--
If more sane people were armed,
crazy people would get off fewer shots.
Support the 2nd Amendment