Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default using hammers with strap wrenches

On Thu, 25 Oct 2018 18:34:24 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Thu, 25 Oct 2018 17:52:15 -0000 (UTC), bob prohaska
wrote:

rangerssuck wrote:
On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 2:39:46 AM UTC-4, Great Pumpkin wrote:
On 10/24/2018 06:02 PM, bob prohaska wrote:

At first glance, I expected the restraining torque supplied by the
belts to add to whatever torque the hammer blow furnishes, so that
applying 50 ft-lbs with a cheater bar and then adding a hammer blow
worth, say, 200 ft-lbs should give me 250 ft-lbs on the nut.

The hammer blow will add its 200 ft-lbs, and will remove the cheater
bar's 50 ft-lbs at precisely the same time.

Well yeah, but the impact will also tend to "shake things loose". I have removed some pretty stuck things by applying a wrench with cheater bar and then smacking the part itself (not the wrench) with a hammer. *

If it's simply a matter of torque on the nut (as implied in the original post), I'd be thinking about a longer cheater. 50 ft-lbs is not very much - that's a 10 pound tug on a 5 foot bar.


I think it's probably correct that the hammer blow will mostly unload
the cheater, not add to the torque on the struck wrench. My limitation
is holding torque, not cheater advantage. The pulley to be held has no
lugs that can be caught with a bar or wrench. I can put a clamp on the
belts to keep it from turning, or take the belts off and buy a strap
wrench, but either way the hold is limited and rigidity is poor.

The wrench I'm using is a Lisle, the 47 mm size in this set:
https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-...tch-wrench-set
They claim no holder is needed, but that assumes a good air hammer.

Not having an air hammer (nor a suitable compressor) I'll try an old
Skill 732 Rotohammer with a concave drift to stay on the wrench.
Not as good, but the best I have.

Thanks to everybody

bob prohaska



* BTW, the 25" 1/2" breaker bar from HF takes a surprising amount of punishment without failure. I used one on a 7/8" bolt (steel into aluminum) that was seized up tight. I added a 5-foot pipe on the end and had a big guy (tm) leaning hard on it. I fully expected the swivel joint on the bar to shatter, but it held while the bar itself flexed a good amount. Smacking the end of the bar (where the socket was) with a hammer caused the bolt to pop free (loudly). Thank the spaghetti monster that it didn't break.

It went back together with plenty of anti-seize and new bolts.

Make the best purchase of your life and buy a corded electric 1/2"
impact gun. My $58 canadian (on sale at Canadian Tire) unit will
torque over 300 lb-ft


I agree. I have two. They are identical inside and out. One is
marked Black and Decker Professional, the other is marked Central
Machinery. Both are a treat to use if one has no air but suitible 110
power. Both are at least 20 yrs old.

Gunner
__

"Poor widdle Wudy...mentally ill, lies constantly, doesnt know who he is, or even what gender "he" is.

No more pathetic creature has ever walked the earth. But...he is locked into a mental hospital for the safety of the public.

Which is a very good thing."

Asun rauhassa, valmistaudun sotaan.


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