I need a 32 tooth spur gear to mesh with the 7/8" X 8TPI leadscrew on my lathe. Gear is for the thread dial. Can any of you point me to a source for this gear? I do not have gear hobbing equipment. Can anyone tell me what the pressure angle would be for this application? Never messed with gears so I am un-educated. Because of the amount of off topic political stuff here I seldom come here any more. I'd appreciate if any ideas/info were emailed to Thanks in advance for any help

On 20/02/16 16:22, Gerry wrote:
I need a 32 tooth spur gear to mesh with the 7/8" X 8TPI leadscrew on my lathe. Gear is for the thread dial. Can any of you point me to a source for this gear? I do not have gear hobbing equipment. Can anyone tell me what the pressure angle would be for this application? Never messed with gears so I am un-educated. Because of the amount of off topic political stuff here I seldom come here any more. I'd appreciate if any ideas/info were emailed to Thanks in advance for any help
IIRC the pressure angle will depend on the included angle of your
leadscrew. If my memory is correct your 8TPI will be about 25.1 DP so
not off the shelf but as it's only for a threading dial you should be
able to mark up and file a suitable gear by hand as it doesn't need to
be very accurate or very thick as it transmitting no torque and only an
indicator, you may be able to use 1 module for the application as quite
close. 32 teeth should be fairly easy to mark up with a bit or care and
file by hand. Some years back a mate filed a rack for his Boxford lathe
out of brass angle as he was that tight and it worked fine until he sold
it on. If you don't like the sound of filing one yourself then there are
some online gear generators which will produce the DXF file information
and you could then have it laser or water jet cut.

On Sat, 20 Feb 2016 08:22:14 -0800, Gerry wrote:

I need a 32 tooth spur gear to mesh with the 7/8" X 8TPI leadscrew on my
lathe. Gear is for the thread dial. Can any of you point me to a source
for this gear? I do not have gear hobbing equipment. Can anyone tell me
what the pressure angle would be for this application? Never messed with
gears so I am un-educated. Because of the amount of off topic political
stuff here I seldom come here any more. I'd appreciate if any ideas/info
were emailed to Thanks in advance for any help

If it's an acme thread lead screw I don't think a conventional gear tooth
shape will be correct. It'll be something weird.

--
www.wescottdesign.com

On Sat, 20 Feb 2016 16:09:52 -0600, Tim Wescott
wrote:

On Sat, 20 Feb 2016 08:22:14 -0800, Gerry wrote:

I need a 32 tooth spur gear to mesh with the 7/8" X 8TPI leadscrew on my
lathe. Gear is for the thread dial. Can any of you point me to a source
for this gear? I do not have gear hobbing equipment. Can anyone tell me
what the pressure angle would be for this application? Never messed with
gears so I am un-educated. Because of the amount of off topic political
stuff here I seldom come here any more. I'd appreciate if any ideas/info
were emailed to Thanks in advance for any help

If it's an acme thread lead screw I don't think a conventional gear tooth
shape will be correct. It'll be something weird.

The gear shape that mates with an Acme screw, for a perfect,
perpendicular relationship, is a conventional involute helical gear.
But an ordinary involute spur gear is close enough for a thread dial.

The pinion on the thread dial of my South Bend 10L is an involute spur
gear, but it's the enveloping type, like the pinion made for a worm
gear. That, after all, is what this is -- a worm-gear set.

But that's really overkill. As has been said, there is no load on this
pinion, so there is no need for it to be an enveloping type. And even
on my SB, the teeth are straight across, not helical.

--
Ed Huntress

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 20 Feb 2016 16:09:52 -0600, Tim Wescott

wrote:

On Sat, 20 Feb 2016 08:22:14 -0800, Gerry wrote:

I need a 32 tooth spur gear to mesh with the 7/8" X 8TPI leadscrew
on my
lathe. Gear is for the thread dial. Can any of you point me to a
source
for this gear? I do not have gear hobbing equipment. Can anyone
tell me
what the pressure angle would be for this application? Never
messed with
gears so I am un-educated. Because of the amount of off topic
political
stuff here I seldom come here any more. I'd appreciate if any
ideas/info
were emailed to Thanks in advance for any help

If it's an acme thread lead screw I don't think a conventional gear
tooth
shape will be correct. It'll be something weird.

The gear shape that mates with an Acme screw, for a perfect,
perpendicular relationship, is a conventional involute helical gear.
But an ordinary involute spur gear is close enough for a thread
dial.

The pinion on the thread dial of my South Bend 10L is an involute
spur
gear, but it's the enveloping type, like the pinion made for a worm
gear. That, after all, is what this is -- a worm-gear set.

But that's really overkill. As has been said, there is no load on
this
pinion, so there is no need for it to be an enveloping type. And
even
on my SB, the teeth are straight across, not helical.

--
Ed Huntress

The one I found that fits my 10L does have slightly helical teeth to
match the lead screw thread angle. The teeth aren't curved. It's
probably South Bend but maybe not from a 10L. The gear is stamped
THD-100R.
--jsw

On Sat, 20 Feb 2016 19:16:03 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 20 Feb 2016 16:09:52 -0600, Tim Wescott

wrote:

On Sat, 20 Feb 2016 08:22:14 -0800, Gerry wrote:

I need a 32 tooth spur gear to mesh with the 7/8" X 8TPI leadscrew
on my
lathe. Gear is for the thread dial. Can any of you point me to a
source
for this gear? I do not have gear hobbing equipment. Can anyone
tell me
what the pressure angle would be for this application? Never
messed with
gears so I am un-educated. Because of the amount of off topic
political
stuff here I seldom come here any more. I'd appreciate if any
ideas/info
were emailed to Thanks in advance for any help

If it's an acme thread lead screw I don't think a conventional gear
tooth
shape will be correct. It'll be something weird.

The gear shape that mates with an Acme screw, for a perfect,
perpendicular relationship, is a conventional involute helical gear.
But an ordinary involute spur gear is close enough for a thread
dial.

The pinion on the thread dial of my South Bend 10L is an involute
spur
gear, but it's the enveloping type, like the pinion made for a worm
gear. That, after all, is what this is -- a worm-gear set.

But that's really overkill. As has been said, there is no load on
this
pinion, so there is no need for it to be an enveloping type. And
even
on my SB, the teeth are straight across, not helical.

--
Ed Huntress

The one I found that fits my 10L does have slightly helical teeth to
match the lead screw thread angle. The teeth aren't curved. It's
probably South Bend but maybe not from a 10L. The gear is stamped
THD-100R.
--jsw

I'd have to take mine off to see if there is a slight helix to it. If
there is, it's so slight that it's almost invisible, and of no
consequence to either the congurence or to the effectiveness of the
gear set.

But the teeth definitely are the single-enveloping type. That is,
they're curved in a hollow from one face to the other, like a good
worm pinion. (Double-enveloping only applies to actual worm gear
sets.)

BTW, my 10L was built in 1945, and it has a War Board plate on it. It
was built for navy shipboard use, with both DC and AC motors. It was
unused and still packed in Cosmoline when my uncle (a former Seabee)
got it.

--
Ed Huntress

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0o3W4_LRBw This struck me as being possible but I'd need to find a 10TPI acme tap or at least make something suitable. I guess one of the issues would be figuring out the OD of the blank. I am assuming that the circumference would be 4"(4 X 8TPI). Am I on the right path? Use circumference to figure radius/diameter? Do I really need to be using something other than this? Something dealing with the major/minor OD of the teeth instead? Gear designs are all new to me. Thanks for the help so far!

On Sat, 20 Feb 2016 16:09:52 -0600, Tim Wescott
wrote:

On Sat, 20 Feb 2016 08:22:14 -0800, Gerry wrote:

I need a 32 tooth spur gear to mesh with the 7/8" X 8TPI leadscrew on my
lathe. Gear is for the thread dial. Can any of you point me to a source
for this gear? I do not have gear hobbing equipment. Can anyone tell me
what the pressure angle would be for this application? Never messed with
gears so I am un-educated. Because of the amount of off topic political
stuff here I seldom come here any more. I'd appreciate if any ideas/info
were emailed to Thanks in advance for any help

If it's an acme thread lead screw I don't think a conventional gear tooth
shape will be correct. It'll be something weird.

They typically are a slight helix

On 2/20/2016 7:37 PM, Gerry wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0o3W4_LRBw This struck me as being possible but I'd need to find a 10TPI acme tap or at least make something suitable. ...

Since there is no power transmitted by this gear, you could make it out
of Delrin, or something similar. In which case, the hob could be made
out of mild steel by threading a rod 10 tpi Acme and grinding grooves in
it to make cutting edges. The trickiest part would be getting the Acme
profile in the hob. Even that would not have to be very precise.

Bob

Gerry wrote:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0o3W4_LRBw This struck me as being
possible but I'd need to find a 10TPI acme tap or at least make something
suitable.

Just to point out the OP needed a gear to fit to an 8 TPI lathe leadscrew.
Maybe you could actually hob the gear with a 10 TPI tap, but I'd expect an 8
TPI tap would make a much better fit. But, an 8 TPI tap might be harder to
find. A hob could probably be made on the lathe, as this doesn't need high
precision.

Jon

"Jon Elson" wrote in message
...
Gerry wrote:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0o3W4_LRBw This struck me as being
possible but I'd need to find a 10TPI acme tap or at least make
something
suitable.

Just to point out the OP needed a gear to fit to an 8 TPI lathe
leadscrew.
Maybe you could actually hob the gear with a 10 TPI tap, but I'd
expect an 8
TPI tap would make a much better fit. But, an 8 TPI tap might be
harder to
find. A hob could probably be made on the lathe, as this doesn't
need high
precision.

Jon

A 1" - 8 NC tap fits nicely into the leadscrew of my lathe. The gear
could be cut from aluminum since there's little load on it and the
user controls the depth of engagement. I can't say 'no' load because
the threading gear I mentioned yesterday is visibly worn where it
contacted its previous lathe's leadscrew.
--jsw

The original gear that came with the lathe when new was brass and had a slight helix. The kicker is that the original gear was 15 tooth! I've had the lathe since new for 9 years. I've never been able to thread with the lathe and I guess the 15 tooth gear explains why. I always figured that I was doing something wrong and found other ways to work. I am retired now and am trying to get things right. BTW, my previous lathe was a Sheldon 11X56 and never had problems of any kind except wear

"Gerry" wrote in message
...
The original gear that came with the lathe when new was brass and had
a slight helix. The kicker is that the original gear was 15 tooth!
I've had the lathe since new for 9 years. I've never been able to
thread with the lathe and I guess the 15 tooth gear explains why. I
always figured that I was doing something wrong and found other ways
to work. I am retired now and am trying to get things right. BTW, my
previous lathe was a Sheldon 11X56 and never had problems of any kind
except wear

==============

If you can index the blank on a mill you could probably make an
adequate 'gear' by slitting it with a saw.
--jsw

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
"Gerry" wrote in message
...
The original gear that came with the lathe when new was brass and
had a slight helix. The kicker is that the original gear was 15
tooth! I've had the lathe since new for 9 years. I've never been
able to thread with the lathe and I guess the 15 tooth gear explains
why. I always figured that I was doing something wrong and found
other ways to work. I am retired now and am trying to get things
right. BTW, my previous lathe was a Sheldon 11X56 and never had
problems of any kind except wear

==============

If you can index the blank on a mill you could probably make an
adequate 'gear' by slitting it with a saw.
--jsw


I just realized why the gear on my threading dial looks unusual. The
teeth are barely longer than the pitch diameter, and leave a gap to
the leadscrew thread root. I suppose that allows a straight-edged gear
cutting tool, perhaps a slitting saw raised above center height to cut
at the Acme thread flank angle.
--jsw

On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 09:53:02 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
"Gerry" wrote in message
...
The original gear that came with the lathe when new was brass and
had a slight helix. The kicker is that the original gear was 15
tooth! I've had the lathe since new for 9 years. I've never been
able to thread with the lathe and I guess the 15 tooth gear explains
why. I always figured that I was doing something wrong and found
other ways to work. I am retired now and am trying to get things
right. BTW, my previous lathe was a Sheldon 11X56 and never had
problems of any kind except wear

==============

If you can index the blank on a mill you could probably make an
adequate 'gear' by slitting it with a saw.
--jsw


I just realized why the gear on my threading dial looks unusual. The
teeth are barely longer than the pitch diameter, and leave a gap to
the leadscrew thread root. I suppose that allows a straight-edged gear
cutting tool, perhaps a slitting saw raised above center height to cut
at the Acme thread flank angle.
--jsw

I tried to understand what you're saying there but I don't get it. I'd
have to look at the threading-dial gear on my lathe with a magnifying
glass to be sure, but it's almost certainly a hobbed gear with
involute flanks. Whether the tooth is short or long, the flanks come
out as an involute when you hob them with a straight-toothed gear hob
-- which probably is 99% of the hobs used in industry. That applies
whether the gear being made has simple, straight-across teeth, or
whether it's an enveloping type.

(You can see the shape of an enveloping gear if you click on the
animation on this page, which enlarges it

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Worm_drive

I hope it's understood that the tooth geometry here is the same as
that for a rack and pinion, or for a worm drive. A rack is an involute
"gear" of infinite diameter. When you make the diameter infinite (in
other words, a straight rack) the teeth wind up being angular but
straight-sided, like an Acme thread. The same applies to a worm drive,
which is what we're talking about here. For a perfect, conjugate mesh,
the teeth on the pinion are therefore involute.

Again, though, all this complication is moot for the OP's application.
A threading dial drive does not have to be conjugate and it doesn't
transmit power. It's a timing drive. Old clocks had timing drives, and
those gears often were just straight-sided teeth, not involutes or
other conjugate shapes. That's all you need here. The teeth could be
any shape that meshes roughly with the leadscrew. The indicator will
work the same way no matter what. And, as others have said, plastic
should work perfectly well, for a very long time.

--
Ed Huntress

On 21/02/16 15:15, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 09:53:02 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
"Gerry" wrote in message
...
The original gear that came with the lathe when new was brass and
had a slight helix. The kicker is that the original gear was 15
tooth! I've had the lathe since new for 9 years. I've never been
able to thread with the lathe and I guess the 15 tooth gear explains
why. I always figured that I was doing something wrong and found
other ways to work. I am retired now and am trying to get things
right. BTW, my previous lathe was a Sheldon 11X56 and never had
problems of any kind except wear

==============

If you can index the blank on a mill you could probably make an
adequate 'gear' by slitting it with a saw.
--jsw

I just realized why the gear on my threading dial looks unusual. The
teeth are barely longer than the pitch diameter, and leave a gap to
the leadscrew thread root. I suppose that allows a straight-edged gear
cutting tool, perhaps a slitting saw raised above center height to cut
at the Acme thread flank angle.
--jsw
I tried to understand what you're saying there but I don't get it. I'd
have to look at the threading-dial gear on my lathe with a magnifying
glass to be sure, but it's almost certainly a hobbed gear with
involute flanks. Whether the tooth is short or long, the flanks come
out as an involute when you hob them with a straight-toothed gear hob
-- which probably is 99% of the hobs used in industry. That applies
whether the gear being made has simple, straight-across teeth, or
whether it's an enveloping type.

(You can see the shape of an enveloping gear if you click on the
animation on this page, which enlarges it

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Worm_drive

I hope it's understood that the tooth geometry here is the same as
that for a rack and pinion, or for a worm drive. A rack is an involute
"gear" of infinite diameter. When you make the diameter infinite (in
other words, a straight rack) the teeth wind up being angular but
straight-sided, like an Acme thread. The same applies to a worm drive,
which is what we're talking about here. For a perfect, conjugate mesh,
the teeth on the pinion are therefore involute.

Again, though, all this complication is moot for the OP's application.
A threading dial drive does not have to be conjugate and it doesn't
transmit power. It's a timing drive. Old clocks had timing drives, and
those gears often were just straight-sided teeth, not involutes or
other conjugate shapes. That's all you need here. The teeth could be
any shape that meshes roughly with the leadscrew. The indicator will
work the same way no matter what. And, as others have said, plastic
should work perfectly well, for a very long time.

I've suggested a 32 tooth 1 module gear which I work out has a pitch
error of about 0.0013" per tooth so I think would work fine and it a
standard offering from many sources.

On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 15:35:45 +0000, David Billington
wrote:

On 21/02/16 15:15, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 09:53:02 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
"Gerry" wrote in message
...
The original gear that came with the lathe when new was brass and
had a slight helix. The kicker is that the original gear was 15
tooth! I've had the lathe since new for 9 years. I've never been
able to thread with the lathe and I guess the 15 tooth gear explains
why. I always figured that I was doing something wrong and found
other ways to work. I am retired now and am trying to get things
right. BTW, my previous lathe was a Sheldon 11X56 and never had
problems of any kind except wear

==============

If you can index the blank on a mill you could probably make an
adequate 'gear' by slitting it with a saw.
--jsw

I just realized why the gear on my threading dial looks unusual. The
teeth are barely longer than the pitch diameter, and leave a gap to
the leadscrew thread root. I suppose that allows a straight-edged gear
cutting tool, perhaps a slitting saw raised above center height to cut
at the Acme thread flank angle.
--jsw
I tried to understand what you're saying there but I don't get it. I'd
have to look at the threading-dial gear on my lathe with a magnifying
glass to be sure, but it's almost certainly a hobbed gear with
involute flanks. Whether the tooth is short or long, the flanks come
out as an involute when you hob them with a straight-toothed gear hob
-- which probably is 99% of the hobs used in industry. That applies
whether the gear being made has simple, straight-across teeth, or
whether it's an enveloping type.

(You can see the shape of an enveloping gear if you click on the
animation on this page, which enlarges it

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Worm_drive

I hope it's understood that the tooth geometry here is the same as
that for a rack and pinion, or for a worm drive. A rack is an involute
"gear" of infinite diameter. When you make the diameter infinite (in
other words, a straight rack) the teeth wind up being angular but
straight-sided, like an Acme thread. The same applies to a worm drive,
which is what we're talking about here. For a perfect, conjugate mesh,
the teeth on the pinion are therefore involute.

Again, though, all this complication is moot for the OP's application.
A threading dial drive does not have to be conjugate and it doesn't
transmit power. It's a timing drive. Old clocks had timing drives, and
those gears often were just straight-sided teeth, not involutes or
other conjugate shapes. That's all you need here. The teeth could be
any shape that meshes roughly with the leadscrew. The indicator will
work the same way no matter what. And, as others have said, plastic
should work perfectly well, for a very long time.

I've suggested a 32 tooth 1 module gear which I work out has a pitch
error of about 0.0013" per tooth so I think would work fine and it a
standard offering from many sources.

Yeah. The only things that matter are that you have the right NUMBER
of teeth, to get the timing right; and that the teeth engage the
leadscrew well enough that it doesn't jump or slip.

--
Ed Huntress

On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 05:43:56 -0800 (PST), Gerry
wrote:

The original gear that came with the lathe when new was brass and had a slight helix. The kicker is that the original gear was 15 tooth! I've had the lathe since new for 9 years. I've never been able to thread with the lathe and I guess the 15 tooth gear explains why. I always figured that I was doing something wrong and found other ways to work. I am retired now and am trying to get things right. BTW, my previous lathe was a Sheldon 11X56 and never had problems of any kind except wear

Why not simply thread without using the threading dial?
--
cheers,

John B.

Cool. I have a 11x44 myself.

Is the 15 tooth a metric threading gear ?
Just a thought.

Martin

On 2/21/2016 7:43 AM, Gerry wrote:
The original gear that came with the lathe when new was brass and had a slight helix.

The kicker is that the original gear was 15 tooth! I've had the lathe
since new for 9 years.

I've never been able to thread with the lathe and I guess the 15 tooth
gear explains why.

I always figured that I was doing something wrong and found other ways
to work.

I am retired now and am trying to get things right. BTW,

my previous lathe was a Sheldon 11X56 and never had problems of any kind
except wear

On Sunday, February 21, 2016 at 7:49:43 PM UTC-6, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 05:43:56 -0800 (PST), Gerry
wrote:

The original gear that came with the lathe when new was brass and had a slight helix. The kicker is that the original gear was 15 tooth! I've had the lathe since new for 9 years. I've never been able to thread with the lathe and I guess the 15 tooth gear explains why. I always figured that I was doing something wrong and found other ways to work. I am retired now and am trying to get things right. BTW, my previous lathe was a Sheldon 11X56 and never had problems of any kind except wear

Why not simply thread without using the threading dial?
--
cheers,

John B.

One reason is that I bought a lathe with a thread dial and expect the thread dial to work as it should. The other reason is that threading to a shoulder without being able to disengage the halfnut is a pain. Doable, but still a pain

On Sunday, February 21, 2016 at 8:40:25 PM UTC-6, Martin Eastburn wrote:
Cool. I have a 11x44 myself.

Is the 15 tooth a metric threading gear ?
Just a thought.

Martin

On 2/21/2016 7:43 AM, Gerry wrote:
The original gear that came with the lathe when new was brass and had a slight helix.

The kicker is that the original gear was 15 tooth! I've had the lathe
since new for 9 years.

I've never been able to thread with the lathe and I guess the 15 tooth
gear explains why.

I always figured that I was doing something wrong and found other ways
to work.

I am retired now and am trying to get things right. BTW,

my previous lathe was a Sheldon 11X56 and never had problems of any kind
except wear


Could be, Martin, but the metric versions of my lathe use a different style thread dial, one with three gears and three mounting holes. BTW the seller, Matt at Quality Machine Tools is going to send me the proper gear this week. Lathe is a Precision Mathews 1340. I thank all of you for your input

On Sunday, February 21, 2016 at 9:40:25 PM UTC-5, Martin Eastburn wrote:

Is the 15 tooth a metric threading gear ?
Just a thought.

Martin


I can not see how a 15 tooth gear would be for metric. Especially with a unch lead screw.

I think the original might have had a 16 tooth gear and when the design was copied someone miscounted the number of teeth. The Chinese have no idea of what the threading dial is used for. I say that because I have a Taiwan lathe that had the wrong number of teeth on the threading dial. And I tried to explain to the manufacturer what was needed.

Dan

On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 19:00:36 -0800 (PST), Gerry
wrote:

On Sunday, February 21, 2016 at 7:49:43 PM UTC-6, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 05:43:56 -0800 (PST), Gerry
wrote:

The original gear that came with the lathe when new was brass and had a slight helix. The kicker is that the original gear was 15 tooth! I've had the lathe since new for 9 years. I've never been able to thread with the lathe and I guess the 15 tooth gear explains why. I always figured that I was doing something wrong and found other ways to work. I am retired now and am trying to get things right. BTW, my previous lathe was a Sheldon 11X56 and never had problems of any kind except wear

Why not simply thread without using the threading dial?
--
cheers,

John B.

One reason is that I bought a lathe with a thread dial and expect the thread dial to work as it should. The other reason is that threading to a shoulder without being able to disengage the halfnut is a pain. Doable, but still a pain

smile You know I can't remember over the last 50 or 60 years since I
finished my apprenticeship of ever seeing a professional machinist use
a thread dial :-)

This is not to say that no one ever used one, just that I never saw
one used.
--
cheers,

John B.

On Mon, 22 Feb 2016 12:19:28 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 19:00:36 -0800 (PST), Gerry
wrote:

On Sunday, February 21, 2016 at 7:49:43 PM UTC-6, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 05:43:56 -0800 (PST), Gerry
wrote:

The original gear that came with the lathe when new was brass and had a slight helix. The kicker is that the original gear was 15 tooth! I've had the lathe since new for 9 years. I've never been able to thread with the lathe and I guess the 15 tooth gear explains why. I always figured that I was doing something wrong and found other ways to work. I am retired now and am trying to get things right. BTW, my previous lathe was a Sheldon 11X56 and never had problems of any kind except wear

Why not simply thread without using the threading dial?
--
cheers,

John B.

One reason is that I bought a lathe with a thread dial and expect the thread dial to work as it should. The other reason is that threading to a shoulder without being able to disengage the halfnut is a pain. Doable, but still a pain

smile You know I can't remember over the last 50 or 60 years since I
finished my apprenticeship of ever seeing a professional machinist use
a thread dial :-)

This is not to say that no one ever used one, just that I never saw
one used.

??? So how do the pros in your neck of the woods cut threads?

Gunner

On Sat, 20 Feb 2016 08:22:14 -0800 (PST), Gerry
wrote:

I need a 32 tooth spur gear to mesh with the 7/8" X 8TPI leadscrew on my lathe. Gear is for the thread dial. Can any of you point me to a source for this gear? I do not have gear hobbing equipment. Can anyone tell me what the pressure angle would be for this application? Never messed with gears so I am un-educated. Because of the amount of off topic political stuff here I seldom come here any more. I'd appreciate if any ideas/info were emailed to Thanks in advance for any help
Greetings Gerry,
The gear should ideally have helical teeth so that the threading dial
will still be at 90 degrees to the leadscrew. But you may have a hard
time finding one. However, the gear only has to transmit enough torque
to spin the thread dial. You could get away with a disc with pins
sticking out as your gear. The pins should be tapered to match the
angle of the leadscrew, just so that there is line contact instead of
just point contact. If a regular spur gear is used, one with straight
teeth, only the corners of the leadscrew thread will make contact with
the gear teeth unless the axis of the gear is tilted to the same angle
as the helix on the leadscrew.
Eric

On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 22:21:32 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Mon, 22 Feb 2016 12:19:28 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 19:00:36 -0800 (PST), Gerry
wrote:

On Sunday, February 21, 2016 at 7:49:43 PM UTC-6, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 05:43:56 -0800 (PST), Gerry
wrote:

The original gear that came with the lathe when new was brass and had a slight helix. The kicker is that the original gear was 15 tooth! I've had the lathe since new for 9 years. I've never been able to thread with the lathe and I guess the 15 tooth gear explains why. I always figured that I was doing something wrong and found other ways to work. I am retired now and am trying to get things right. BTW, my previous lathe was a Sheldon 11X56 and never had problems of any kind except wear

Why not simply thread without using the threading dial?
--
cheers,

John B.

One reason is that I bought a lathe with a thread dial and expect the thread dial to work as it should. The other reason is that threading to a shoulder without being able to disengage the halfnut is a pain. Doable, but still a pain

smile You know I can't remember over the last 50 or 60 years since I
finished my apprenticeship of ever seeing a professional machinist use
a thread dial :-)

This is not to say that no one ever used one, just that I never saw
one used.

??? So how do the pros in your neck of the woods cut threads?

Gunner

You have to ask?

Reverse the lathe.
--
cheers,

John B.

"John B." wrote in message
...
On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 22:21:32 -0800, Gunner Asch

wrote:

On Mon, 22 Feb 2016 12:19:28 +0700, John B.

wrote:

On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 19:00:36 -0800 (PST), Gerry

wrote:

On Sunday, February 21, 2016 at 7:49:43 PM UTC-6, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 05:43:56 -0800 (PST), Gerry

wrote:

The original gear that came with the lathe when new was brass
and had a slight helix. The kicker is that the original gear
was 15 tooth! I've had the lathe since new for 9 years. I've
never been able to thread with the lathe and I guess the 15
tooth gear explains why. I always figured that I was doing
something wrong and found other ways to work. I am retired now
and am trying to get things right. BTW, my previous lathe was a
Sheldon 11X56 and never had problems of any kind except wear

Why not simply thread without using the threading dial?
--
cheers,

John B.

One reason is that I bought a lathe with a thread dial and expect
the thread dial to work as it should. The other reason is that
threading to a shoulder without being able to disengage the
halfnut is a pain. Doable, but still a pain

smile You know I can't remember over the last 50 or 60 years
since I
finished my apprenticeship of ever seeing a professional machinist
use
a thread dial :-)

This is not to say that no one ever used one, just that I never saw
one used.

??? So how do the pros in your neck of the woods cut threads?

Gunner

You have to ask?

Reverse the lathe.
--
cheers,

John B.

Aren't they cutting metric threads?
--jsw

On Mon, 22 Feb 2016 20:48:23 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"John B." wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 22:21:32 -0800, Gunner Asch

wrote:

On Mon, 22 Feb 2016 12:19:28 +0700, John B.

wrote:

On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 19:00:36 -0800 (PST), Gerry

wrote:

On Sunday, February 21, 2016 at 7:49:43 PM UTC-6, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 05:43:56 -0800 (PST), Gerry

wrote:

The original gear that came with the lathe when new was brass
and had a slight helix. The kicker is that the original gear
was 15 tooth! I've had the lathe since new for 9 years. I've
never been able to thread with the lathe and I guess the 15
tooth gear explains why. I always figured that I was doing
something wrong and found other ways to work. I am retired now
and am trying to get things right. BTW, my previous lathe was a
Sheldon 11X56 and never had problems of any kind except wear

Why not simply thread without using the threading dial?
--
cheers,

John B.

One reason is that I bought a lathe with a thread dial and expect
the thread dial to work as it should. The other reason is that
threading to a shoulder without being able to disengage the
halfnut is a pain. Doable, but still a pain

smile You know I can't remember over the last 50 or 60 years
since I
finished my apprenticeship of ever seeing a professional machinist
use
a thread dial :-)

This is not to say that no one ever used one, just that I never saw
one used.

??? So how do the pros in your neck of the woods cut threads?

Gunner

You have to ask?

Reverse the lathe.
--
cheers,

John B.

Aren't they cutting metric threads?
--jsw


I finished my apprenticeship in 1950.... I don't think that they had
metric threads in those days :-)
--
cheers,

John B.

On 2016-02-20, Gerry wrote:

I need a 32 tooth spur gear to mesh with the 7/8" X 8TPI leadscrew on
my lathe. Gear is for the thread dial. Can any of you point me to a
source for this gear? I do not have gear hobbing equipment. Can anyone
tell me what the pressure angle would be for this application?

Assuming a standard Acme thread on the leadscrew, go for a
14 degree pressure angle.

You'll need to mount the gear at a sight angle to make the teeth
parallel the thread faces.

If you had an index head -- or something which could work like
one, you could set up the lathe to do milling well enough to do the job,
and turn a cutter to make the cuts.

Never
messed with gears so I am un-educated. Because of the amount of off
topic political stuff here I seldom come here any more. I'd appreciate
if any ideas/info were emailed to Thanks in advance for
any help

Sorry -- my newsreader does not do e-mail forwarding as set up.
I hope that you find this here.

You need to get a newsreader with a good killfile, and use that
to get rid of most of the junk -- by name of poster, and by words in the
"Subject: " header

Good luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Tue, 23 Feb 2016 07:36:45 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 22:21:32 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Mon, 22 Feb 2016 12:19:28 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 19:00:36 -0800 (PST), Gerry
wrote:

On Sunday, February 21, 2016 at 7:49:43 PM UTC-6, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 05:43:56 -0800 (PST), Gerry
wrote:

The original gear that came with the lathe when new was brass and had a slight helix. The kicker is that the original gear was 15 tooth! I've had the lathe since new for 9 years. I've never been able to thread with the lathe and I guess the 15 tooth gear explains why. I always figured that I was doing something wrong and found other ways to work. I am retired now and am trying to get things right. BTW, my previous lathe was a Sheldon 11X56 and never had problems of any kind except wear

Why not simply thread without using the threading dial?
--
cheers,

John B.

One reason is that I bought a lathe with a thread dial and expect the thread dial to work as it should. The other reason is that threading to a shoulder without being able to disengage the halfnut is a pain. Doable, but still a pain

smile You know I can't remember over the last 50 or 60 years since I
finished my apprenticeship of ever seeing a professional machinist use
a thread dial :-)

This is not to say that no one ever used one, just that I never saw
one used.

??? So how do the pros in your neck of the woods cut threads?

Gunner

You have to ask?

Reverse the lathe.

So there is zero backlash in that pesky threading rod on all lathes in
your area? Fascinating!!

See this lathe?
Threading dial..along with EVERY other lathe in the shop

https://picasaweb.google.com/1040422...46291354016834

Well..the 28x120 Axelson...it doesnt have a threading dial. It got
smashed off when the gantry crane busted off and dropped a 450lb
tapered gib pin on to threading dial housing. One of my jobs is to
build a new one. Ive got most of it done, but havnt hobbed it yet.
Gonna have a buddy of mine hob it in his gear cutting shop when the
rush job(s) are over for a few days...and he remembers to cut the
****er...again. Free of course...well..I already supplied the (2) 6
packs of Heinekin Dark Lager (sp?)

I should mention..that my Hardinge HLV-H...doesnt use "reverse the
lathe" to cut threads either, nor does my 15x58 Clausing 1501

On Fri, 26 Feb 2016 20:45:51 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 23 Feb 2016 07:36:45 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 22:21:32 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Mon, 22 Feb 2016 12:19:28 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 19:00:36 -0800 (PST), Gerry
wrote:

On Sunday, February 21, 2016 at 7:49:43 PM UTC-6, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 05:43:56 -0800 (PST), Gerry
wrote:

The original gear that came with the lathe when new was brass and had a slight helix. The kicker is that the original gear was 15 tooth! I've had the lathe since new for 9 years. I've never been able to thread with the lathe and I guess the 15 tooth gear explains why. I always figured that I was doing something wrong and found other ways to work. I am retired now and am trying to get things right. BTW, my previous lathe was a Sheldon 11X56 and never had problems of any kind except wear

Why not simply thread without using the threading dial?
--
cheers,

John B.

One reason is that I bought a lathe with a thread dial and expect the thread dial to work as it should. The other reason is that threading to a shoulder without being able to disengage the halfnut is a pain. Doable, but still a pain

smile You know I can't remember over the last 50 or 60 years since I
finished my apprenticeship of ever seeing a professional machinist use
a thread dial :-)

This is not to say that no one ever used one, just that I never saw
one used.

??? So how do the pros in your neck of the woods cut threads?

Gunner

You have to ask?

Reverse the lathe.

So there is zero backlash in that pesky threading rod on all lathes in
your area? Fascinating!!

Are you really that silly or are out making an effort? You don't cut
threads when you reverse the lathe. Well, most people don't anyway, of
course if they do they have very poor results.

Geeze, 60 years old and hasn't learned a thing.
--
cheers,

John B.

On Sat, 27 Feb 2016 17:48:53 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Fri, 26 Feb 2016 20:45:51 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 23 Feb 2016 07:36:45 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 22:21:32 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Mon, 22 Feb 2016 12:19:28 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 19:00:36 -0800 (PST), Gerry
wrote:

On Sunday, February 21, 2016 at 7:49:43 PM UTC-6, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 05:43:56 -0800 (PST), Gerry
wrote:

The original gear that came with the lathe when new was brass and had a slight helix. The kicker is that the original gear was 15 tooth! I've had the lathe since new for 9 years. I've never been able to thread with the lathe and I guess the 15 tooth gear explains why. I always figured that I was doing something wrong and found other ways to work. I am retired now and am trying to get things right. BTW, my previous lathe was a Sheldon 11X56 and never had problems of any kind except wear

Why not simply thread without using the threading dial?
--
cheers,

John B.

One reason is that I bought a lathe with a thread dial and expect the thread dial to work as it should. The other reason is that threading to a shoulder without being able to disengage the halfnut is a pain. Doable, but still a pain

smile You know I can't remember over the last 50 or 60 years since I
finished my apprenticeship of ever seeing a professional machinist use
a thread dial :-)

This is not to say that no one ever used one, just that I never saw
one used.

??? So how do the pros in your neck of the woods cut threads?

Gunner

You have to ask?

Reverse the lathe.

So there is zero backlash in that pesky threading rod on all lathes in
your area? Fascinating!!

Are you really that silly or are out making an effort? You don't cut
threads when you reverse the lathe. Well, most people don't anyway, of
course if they do they have very poor results.

Geeze, 60 years old and hasn't learned a thing.

You admit this? Im rather surprised. Based on your verbage, you can
walk on water and now you admit to being 60 and butt ignorant?

True indeed, but for you to make such an admission..astounding!!

Gunner

On Sat, 27 Feb 2016 05:11:00 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sat, 27 Feb 2016 17:48:53 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Fri, 26 Feb 2016 20:45:51 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 23 Feb 2016 07:36:45 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 22:21:32 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Mon, 22 Feb 2016 12:19:28 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 19:00:36 -0800 (PST), Gerry
wrote:

On Sunday, February 21, 2016 at 7:49:43 PM UTC-6, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 05:43:56 -0800 (PST), Gerry
wrote:

The original gear that came with the lathe when new was brass and had a slight helix. The kicker is that the original gear was 15 tooth! I've had the lathe since new for 9 years. I've never been able to thread with the lathe and I guess the 15 tooth gear explains why. I always figured that I was doing something wrong and found other ways to work. I am retired now and am trying to get things right. BTW, my previous lathe was a Sheldon 11X56 and never had problems of any kind except wear

Why not simply thread without using the threading dial?
--
cheers,

John B.

One reason is that I bought a lathe with a thread dial and expect the thread dial to work as it should. The other reason is that threading to a shoulder without being able to disengage the halfnut is a pain. Doable, but still a pain

smile You know I can't remember over the last 50 or 60 years since I
finished my apprenticeship of ever seeing a professional machinist use
a thread dial :-)

This is not to say that no one ever used one, just that I never saw
one used.

??? So how do the pros in your neck of the woods cut threads?

Gunner

You have to ask?

Reverse the lathe.

So there is zero backlash in that pesky threading rod on all lathes in
your area? Fascinating!!

Are you really that silly or are out making an effort? You don't cut
threads when you reverse the lathe. Well, most people don't anyway, of
course if they do they have very poor results.

Geeze, 60 years old and hasn't learned a thing.

You admit this? Im rather surprised. Based on your verbage, you can
walk on water and now you admit to being 60 and butt ignorant?

True indeed, but for you to make such an admission..astounding!!


Goodness, and you have a reading disability, or is it "aphasia" which
is frequently a result of stroke?

In the future I will try using words of fewer syllables as I
understand that those suffering from the disability have fewer
problems comprehending simple words.
--
cheers,

John B.

On Sun, 28 Feb 2016 10:45:44 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Sat, 27 Feb 2016 05:11:00 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sat, 27 Feb 2016 17:48:53 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Fri, 26 Feb 2016 20:45:51 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 23 Feb 2016 07:36:45 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 22:21:32 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Mon, 22 Feb 2016 12:19:28 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 19:00:36 -0800 (PST), Gerry
wrote:

On Sunday, February 21, 2016 at 7:49:43 PM UTC-6, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 05:43:56 -0800 (PST), Gerry
wrote:

The original gear that came with the lathe when new was brass and had a slight helix. The kicker is that the original gear was 15 tooth! I've had the lathe since new for 9 years. I've never been able to thread with the lathe and I guess the 15 tooth gear explains why. I always figured that I was doing something wrong and found other ways to work. I am retired now and am trying to get things right. BTW, my previous lathe was a Sheldon 11X56 and never had problems of any kind except wear

Why not simply thread without using the threading dial?
--
cheers,

John B.

One reason is that I bought a lathe with a thread dial and expect the thread dial to work as it should. The other reason is that threading to a shoulder without being able to disengage the halfnut is a pain. Doable, but still a pain

smile You know I can't remember over the last 50 or 60 years since I
finished my apprenticeship of ever seeing a professional machinist use
a thread dial :-)

This is not to say that no one ever used one, just that I never saw
one used.

??? So how do the pros in your neck of the woods cut threads?

Gunner

You have to ask?

Reverse the lathe.

So there is zero backlash in that pesky threading rod on all lathes in
your area? Fascinating!!

Are you really that silly or are out making an effort? You don't cut
threads when you reverse the lathe. Well, most people don't anyway, of
course if they do they have very poor results.

Geeze, 60 years old and hasn't learned a thing.

You admit this? Im rather surprised. Based on your verbage, you can
walk on water and now you admit to being 60 and butt ignorant?

True indeed, but for you to make such an admission..astounding!!


Goodness, and you have a reading disability, or is it "aphasia" which
is frequently a result of stroke?

In the future I will try using words of fewer syllables as I
understand that those suffering from the disability have fewer
problems comprehending simple words.

If you use words of fewer syllables..you will look far less foolish
than you do now.

Bye John, have a nice life

plink

Gunner