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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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Frustration
On Sun, 13 Dec 2015 20:03:38 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote: The day I picked up the stove grates I also picked up a small "fire pot" that was cracked/broken . The break is across a 2" horizontal then about 1" vertical - kind of like an angle iron but not at 90° . I attempted a repair on it yesterday , beginning with a tack at the corner and one at the horizontal edge . That part went well ... but when I tried to fill in between the two tacks it keeps cracking . I have a hammer handy and begin peening before my helmet clears ... I have not preheated this piece because of the size and awkwardness, and I think that's what's killing me . The TIG heat is so localized that the nearby mass of iron is acting as a chill and sucking the heat out so fast I can't peen fast enough to stop the cracking . I can't heat the whole part , but I can heat the repair area . The part is like an oval sleeve , with nothing to restrict expansion in any direction so I think I can safely heat just that area . The question is how hot and will this help keep it from cracking ? I tried some CI strips first , then the Invar 42 , same results with both fillers ./ Are you anywhere near a pottery supply company? If so, get some ceramic wool and wrap the piece after heating. As to how hot in my experience if I heat cast iron to about 700 degrees it won't crack. I have had the best luck heating to a dull red heat when observed in low light, wrapping in ceramic wool, and welding. It's a pain because everything is so hot but on the other hand no peening is required and no cracking is happening. I have used this method with brazing rod, aluminum bronze rod, stainless steel rod, and nickel alloy rods. Eric |
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