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Default Vintage Crouse Hinds explosion proof light fixture help needed.

Im new to this, but have become a bit addicted to restoring old stuff ;^) Right now Im working on a Crouse Hinds explosion proof fixture. Questions:

1.. I cant find much info on this at all out there. Where can I find a replacement porcelain socket and determine which socket went in it?

2. Any idea what the marked piece is in picture and where it fits?

3. I was surprised by how few antique restoration websites there are out there. Any resources Im missing? I thought there would be a very specific group and/or web sites for this very popular hobby now.

Thanks!

http://emermed.net/staging/forums/an...CH_fixture.jpg
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Default Vintage Crouse Hinds explosion proof light fixture help needed.


wrote in message
...
Im new to this, but have become a bit addicted to restoring old stuff ;^)
Right now Im working on a Crouse Hinds explosion proof fixture.
Questions:

1.. I cant find much info on this at all out there. Where can I find a
replacement porcelain socket and determine which socket went in it?

2. Any idea what the marked piece is in picture and where it fits?

3. I was surprised by how few antique restoration websites there are out
there. Any resources Im missing? I thought there would be a very
specific group and/or web sites for this very popular hobby now.

Thanks!

http://emermed.net/staging/forums/an...CH_fixture.jpg


Typically, these used a porcelain socket with a daimond shaped flange molded
into it. The flange had two screw holes it the ears.

These are no longer made. Your best bet is to retrofit a porcelain socket
like this
http://www.mylampparts.com/Products/...__SL19179.aspx

These go through a circular hole with a tab to prevent rotation.

I'm not sure about your disk. The lack of screw holes makes me suspect that
it that it goes between the bulb and the socket and is held up by the cage
and glass.

There is a lot of technology in these things to keep the gas out that is not
readily apparent.

Paul K. Dickman


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Default Vintage Crouse Hinds explosion proof light fixture help needed.

On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 10:54:32 -0500, "Paul K. Dickman"
wrote:


wrote in message
...
Im new to this, but have become a bit addicted to restoring old stuff ;^)
Right now Im working on a Crouse Hinds explosion proof fixture.
Questions:

1.. I cant find much info on this at all out there. Where can I find a
replacement porcelain socket and determine which socket went in it?

2. Any idea what the marked piece is in picture and where it fits?

3. I was surprised by how few antique restoration websites there are out
there. Any resources Im missing? I thought there would be a very
specific group and/or web sites for this very popular hobby now.

Thanks!

http://emermed.net/staging/forums/an...CH_fixture.jpg


Typically, these used a porcelain socket with a daimond shaped flange molded
into it. The flange had two screw holes it the ears.

These are no longer made. Your best bet is to retrofit a porcelain socket
like this
http://www.mylampparts.com/Products/...__SL19179.aspx

These go through a circular hole with a tab to prevent rotation.

I'm not sure about your disk. The lack of screw holes makes me suspect that
it that it goes between the bulb and the socket and is held up by the cage
and glass.


Actually they had a screw base very similar to a conduit fitting and a
"nut" simply screwed on the base of the bulb holder and pinched the
plate between the bulb holder and the "nut". Often they had a rubber
seal..but not always. A rubber washer that went between the bulb
holder and the disk. Which of course meant that over time..it dried
out and fell apart and the bulb holder was now able to jiggle and
bounce around and blow bulbs in vibration.

Ive replaced literally hundreds of them. Most often today you simply
cut a blank disk from any suitable metal and add whatever bulb holder
you happen to have around.

As Paul indicated..finding "proper" replacement bases is gonna be a
bitch. At the very least..you will likely have to fab your own
washers from sheet rubber.

There is a lot of technology in these things to keep the gas out that is not
readily apparent.


Ayup.

Paul K. Dickman

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