I have an old Delta Homecraft 8-inch Bench Model Tilting Arbor Saw that
my father bought used in the 1950s. This saw is a patchwork quilt of
components, the core being made by Delta, the wings having been
fabricated by somebody with a sheet metal shop and a welder, the motor
being a GE model 1E161, which is an industrial 115 Vac (60 Hz, single
phase) 3/4 HP capacitor-start 3450 rpm continuous-duty unit with
built-in overload protection (the original motor is 1/2 HP), all on a
shop-built wooden base that doubles as a sawdust collection bin.

The problem is that the arbor ball bearings are contaminated, and turn
roughly to the hand. It feels as if some sand has gotten into the
bearing grease. This is actually due to the bearing grease having
completely dried out. Time to replace the bearings.

First chore is to obtain a pair of replacement bearings. The bearings
are New Departure model ND-87503. While the New Departure company went
out of business long ago, many firms still make these bearings, which
were very widely used. On the web, there are many model 87503 bearings
on offer with wildly varying prices and quality claims, and many of the
offered bearings are reported in multiple user reviews to have very
short service lifetimes. The solution turned out to be a local
industrial bearing house (Action Bearing Company, 201 Brighton Avenue,
Boston, Mass 02134), which had ND87503 bearings made by KSK in Japan,
for US $10.27 each.

In the following description, Delta part and figure numbers are
referenced, based on ŒHomecraft 8² Bench Model Tilting Arbor Saw *
Operating and Maintenance Instructions¹ (Delta document PM-1722 dated
9-19-49, 16 pages).

PM-1722 is available: http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/3643.pdf.

It is assumed that the reader will have a copy of PM-1722 in hand
while
reading the following.

Now that I have the bearings in hand, time to install them. First issue
is how to get at the arbor. My initial approach was to unbolt the
cast-iron table top (TAB-101) and remove it from the sheet-metal housing
(TAB-110-S). This approach was abandoned because it was too much
trouble to get the two hand-wheel shafts disentangled from the sheet
metal housing because the tension pins (SP-2711) are difficult to remove
undamaged without a special tool to prevent the pin from splaying and
jamming as it is driven out.

The second approach was to unbolt the entire cast-iron table plus
sheet-metal housing assembly from the wooden base and place the table
plus housing assembly as a unit upside down on my workbench, after the
motor plus motor bracket assembly (and the saw blade) were removed and
set aside.

Removing the motor and motor bracket (TAB-109 and TAB-117 and Figure 5)
assembly as a unit is easily done, as shown in Figure 4. Disconnect the
power cord at the motor (after recording which wire goes where), loosen
the two square-headed set-screws (SP-301 in TAB-109), and slide the
complete motor bracket assembly off the two half-inch posts (Figure 3,
TAB-130 protruding from TAB-105).

With the saw table assembly upside down on the workbench, one can remove
the arbor assembly (TAB-106-A) by loosening the 1/4² square headed set
screw (SP-301) in the front trunnion (TAB-104 in Figure 3), and tapping
the half-inch diameter steel hinge shaft (TAB-125) out with a short
drift punch and a small hammer. One rotates the hand wheels (TAB-165-S,
Figures 9 and 10) for blade height and blade tilt angle as needed to
maneuver and extract the arbor. A pair of wide black steel wave spring
washers (Figure 3, TAM-184) will also come out as the arbor is removed.

Now that I¹ve removed the arbor once, I could probably do a subsequent
remove and replace without removing the table plus housing assembly from
the wooden base, but having the assembly on the workbench and easily
seen was essential the first time, as I was not able to fully visualize
how things were arranged in three dimensions from the figures in PM-1722
alone.

Once the arbor assembly (Figure 7) is liberated, one has the problem of
taking it apart. There are two nuts to remove, both at the pulley side
of the arbor. The first is a 7/8² hex nut (BM-23) on the arbor shaft
(TAB-137-S) * this requires a deep 6- or 12-point socket to reach down
into the arbor while clearing the arbor shaft stub. The arbor shaft was
clamped by its hog ring (against which the saw blade is clamped using
nut BG-23 and dished washer LCS-8) in a big vise with copper jaws, but
the shaft tended to slip in the vise, and a little impact was required
to break the nut free.

The second is a custom spanner (ring) nut (BG-12), with two 0.092² wide
radial slots spaced 180 degrees apart to accept a special spanner
wrench. Attempts to undo this nut by driving it with a drift punch in
the slots only served to mangle the slots, the nut being well recessed
inside the arbor casting (Figure 3, TAB-106-A), and so use of the punch
was abandoned.

Using a lathe and a vertical mill, fabricated the needed special spanner
wrench from a piece of 12L14 steel left over from another project. The
business end of the wrench is a cylinder 1.568² OD and 1.270² ID, with
one end milled across the diameter such that there are two protruding
ears, each ear being 0.090² wide and 0.100² high. These ears fit neatly
into the radial slots on the ring nut. The cylinder portion must be at
least 0.250² deep (not including the two ears) to reach down into the
arbor casting and fully mate with the ring nut within. There must be a
central hole through which the arbor shaft (TAB-137-S) protrudes (a
1.000² ID hole is generous), and a way to apply torque without
interfering with the arbor shaft. I drilled a pair of 0.257² ID holes
parallel to the arbor shaft to accept the pins of an Armstrong model
34-154 3-Inch Adjustable Face Spanner Wrench that I already had. With
this newly-fabricated spanner wrench, the ring nut was easily removed.
While there are many ways to fabricate a ring spanner wrench, the point
is that such a wrench is essential.

We now have both nuts removed. Now to remove the arbor shaft from the
arbor casting. This was accomplished by tapping on the pulley end of
the shaft with a lead hammer. The components that emerged are as
follows, on the saw-blade end: hog ring (an integral part of the arbor
shaft TAB-137-S), ball bearing (ND-87503), two narrow bearing-loading
wave springs (LTA-516), and a machined steel spacer (TAB-124). The
spacer is 2.018² long. Note that while PM-1722 (written in 1949)
specifies that one wave spring should be used, in fact a stack of two
spring washers was installed. One assumes that this is a later change,
to increase the bearing preload. At the pulley end, one ND-87503
bearing remained, stuck in the arbor casting. This bearing was removed
using an impromptu puller consisting of some half-inch all-thread, two
nuts and a big washer. The bearing was not pressed in place, but had
been glued in place by old dried oil. Everything was cleaned with
acetone and/or brake cleaner to remove all the dried oil.

One bearing is still on the arbor shaft, very close to the hog ring, and
couldn¹t be pried loose with screwdrivers and the like. A large gear
puller will make short work of this, except that the puller jaws are too
large to fit between bearing and hog ring. A large steel washer (2-1/2²
OD, 1-1/16² ID, 3/16² thick) was purchased from the local hardware
store, and a roughly square piece was removed to yield a C-shaped
washer. This was slipped between hog ring and bearing, allowing the
gear puller jaws to apply force to the old bearing, which promptly slid
free under the urgings of the puller.

The arbor shaft was then cleaned up with crocus cloth and solvent, ready
for installation of the first new bearing using the puller and a big
steel washer. This is a very light press fit. The lubricant used is
traditional for press fits, Castor Oil (which can be bought in small
quantities from drug stores, where it is sold as a mild laxative).
Mobil-1 synthetic grease (available at auto parts stores) would also
work.

The arbor was then reassembled with the new bearings in place. ND87503
bearings are asymmetrical, where the inner race protrudes beyond the
outer race on only one side. Note that while it¹s hard to be sure from
PM-1722, the bearings are installed back-to-back with noses protruding
outward, with the machined spacer between the backs.

It all took 12-14 unhurried hours, including the fabrication of the
ring-nut spanner wrench and the C-washer, the unsuccessful attempt to
take the cast-iron table off the sheet-metal housing, and some machining
of the left wing for a better fit to the table.

The above text and the photos listed below are in the Metalworking
Dropbox. Google for "Delta_Homecraft_Bearing_Replacement" without the
quotes.

Photo 1: Front view of the saw, for context.

Photo 2: Perspective view of the saw tabletop and blade.

Photo 3: Various components mentioned in the text. At the top is the
Armstrong Adjustable Face Spanner Wrench. The middle row is a thick
washer used for pushing a bearing up against the hog ring, a thick
washer with a piece removed for pulling a bearing away from the hog
ring, the shop-made spanner wrench for the ring nut, and a six-inch rule
for scale.

Photo 4: Closeup of the shop-made spanner wrench for the ring nut.

Photo 5: The back of the saw, showing the motor and motor bracket
attached to the rear trunnion. There is a trouble light in the saw
housing. The orange belt is a link-belt; this was a great improvement
over a standard V-belt.

Photo 6: Closeup of the saw blade (this is a 7-inch blade, although the
saw will accept an 8 inch blade). The rind shaft at the top of the
photo is the arbor hinge pin.


Joe Gwinn

"Joe Gwinn" wrote in message
...
...

Now that I have the bearings in hand, time to install them. First
issue
is how to get at the arbor. My initial approach was to unbolt the
cast-iron table top (TAB-101) and remove it from the sheet-metal
housing
(TAB-110-S). This approach was abandoned because it was too much
trouble to get the two hand-wheel shafts disentangled from the sheet
metal housing because the tension pins (SP-2711) are difficult to
remove
undamaged without a special tool to prevent the pin from splaying
and
jamming as it is driven out.
...

Joe Gwinn

Nice writeup.

I haven't had a problem removing or installing dowel, taper and roll
pins with standard flat-ended drift punches, or custom length /
diameter punches turned from steel or brass welding rod. If access is
poor you could drill the end of rod stock to make a starter punch that
holds the pin in line.
-jsw

Great write up. If you could locate the other Delta Homecraft 8-inch
Bench Model Tilting Arbor Saw owner, he would probably appreciate a
copy. BG

Bob

On Fri, 23 Jan 2015 10:22:31 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Joe Gwinn" wrote in message
...
...

Now that I have the bearings in hand, time to install them. First
issue
is how to get at the arbor. My initial approach was to unbolt the
cast-iron table top (TAB-101) and remove it from the sheet-metal
housing
(TAB-110-S). This approach was abandoned because it was too much
trouble to get the two hand-wheel shafts disentangled from the sheet
metal housing because the tension pins (SP-2711) are difficult to
remove
undamaged without a special tool to prevent the pin from splaying
and
jamming as it is driven out.
...

Joe Gwinn

Nice writeup.

Ditto.


I haven't had a problem removing or installing dowel, taper and roll
pins with standard flat-ended drift punches, or custom length /
diameter punches turned from steel or brass welding rod. If access is
poor you could drill the end of rod stock to make a starter punch that
holds the pin in line.

Also, consider installing springy roll pins vs the tapers. Sometimes
it works, sometimes not.

Using a slightly smaller punch with tape around the end (to center it)
can work, too. The pin never touches the sides.

--
If we can ever make red tape nutritional, we can feed the world.
--Robert Schaeberle

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 23 Jan 2015 10:22:31 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Joe Gwinn" wrote in message
.. .
...

Now that I have the bearings in hand, time to install them. First
issue
is how to get at the arbor. My initial approach was to unbolt the
cast-iron table top (TAB-101) and remove it from the sheet-metal
housing
(TAB-110-S). This approach was abandoned because it was too much
trouble to get the two hand-wheel shafts disentangled from the
sheet
metal housing because the tension pins (SP-2711) are difficult to
remove
undamaged without a special tool to prevent the pin from splaying
and
jamming as it is driven out.
...

Joe Gwinn

Nice writeup.

Ditto.


I haven't had a problem removing or installing dowel, taper and roll
pins with standard flat-ended drift punches, or custom length /
diameter punches turned from steel or brass welding rod. If access
is
poor you could drill the end of rod stock to make a starter punch
that
holds the pin in line.

Also, consider installing springy roll pins vs the tapers.
Sometimes
it works, sometimes not.

Using a slightly smaller punch with tape around the end (to center
it)
can work, too. The pin never touches the sides.

The taper pins are on my South Bend lathe, which I'm trying to keep
original, or at least not damage it when installing homebrew
replacements for missing parts. .

There are gunsmithing roll pin punches with a centering dimple that
keeps the punch from scratching the finish. I couldn't care less on
most of the stuff I have that uses roll pins.
-jsw

In article , Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

Great write up. If you could locate the other Delta Homecraft 8-inch
Bench Model Tilting Arbor Saw owner, he would probably appreciate a
copy. BG

Oh, there is a whole community. They made millions of these saws, and
they were made very well. I'll probably post in that world, if I
figure out where best to do this. Dried-out bearings is a common
problem.

Joe Gwinn

In article , Jim Wilkins
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 23 Jan 2015 10:22:31 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Joe Gwinn" wrote in message
.. .
...

Now that I have the bearings in hand, time to install them. First
issue
is how to get at the arbor. My initial approach was to unbolt the
cast-iron table top (TAB-101) and remove it from the sheet-metal
housing
(TAB-110-S). This approach was abandoned because it was too much
trouble to get the two hand-wheel shafts disentangled from the
sheet
metal housing because the tension pins (SP-2711) are difficult to
remove
undamaged without a special tool to prevent the pin from splaying
and
jamming as it is driven out.
...

Joe Gwinn

Nice writeup.

Ditto.


I haven't had a problem removing or installing dowel, taper and roll
pins with standard flat-ended drift punches, or custom length /
diameter punches turned from steel or brass welding rod. If access
is
poor you could drill the end of rod stock to make a starter punch
that
holds the pin in line.

Also, consider installing springy roll pins vs the tapers.
Sometimes
it works, sometimes not.

Using a slightly smaller punch with tape around the end (to center
it)
can work, too. The pin never touches the sides.

The taper pins are on my South Bend lathe, which I'm trying to keep
original, or at least not damage it when installing homebrew
replacements for missing parts. .

There are gunsmithing roll pin punches with a centering dimple that
keeps the punch from scratching the finish. I couldn't care less on
most of the stuff I have that uses roll pins.

The pins I didn't drive out are roll pins, not taper pins. The pin
sticks out about 1/4 inch on either The problem is that as one tried to
drive the pin out, the end being driven splayed, making it harder to
get the pin through the tight-fitting cross hole in the 5/16 inch
diameter shaft.

The driving tool must prevent splaying, or everything will jam tight.

Joe Gwinn

"Joe Gwinn" wrote in message
...
In article , Jim Wilkins
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 23 Jan 2015 10:22:31 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Joe Gwinn" wrote in message
.. .
...

Now that I have the bearings in hand, time to install them.
First
issue
is how to get at the arbor. My initial approach was to unbolt
the
cast-iron table top (TAB-101) and remove it from the
sheet-metal
housing
(TAB-110-S). This approach was abandoned because it was too
much
trouble to get the two hand-wheel shafts disentangled from the
sheet
metal housing because the tension pins (SP-2711) are difficult
to
remove
undamaged without a special tool to prevent the pin from
splaying
and
jamming as it is driven out.
...

Joe Gwinn

Nice writeup.

Ditto.


I haven't had a problem removing or installing dowel, taper and
roll
pins with standard flat-ended drift punches, or custom length /
diameter punches turned from steel or brass welding rod. If
access
is
poor you could drill the end of rod stock to make a starter punch
that
holds the pin in line.

Also, consider installing springy roll pins vs the tapers.
Sometimes
it works, sometimes not.

Using a slightly smaller punch with tape around the end (to
center
it)
can work, too. The pin never touches the sides.

The taper pins are on my South Bend lathe, which I'm trying to keep
original, or at least not damage it when installing homebrew
replacements for missing parts. .

There are gunsmithing roll pin punches with a centering dimple that
keeps the punch from scratching the finish. I couldn't care less on
most of the stuff I have that uses roll pins.

The pins I didn't drive out are roll pins, not taper pins. The pin
sticks out about 1/4 inch on either The problem is that as one tried
to
drive the pin out, the end being driven splayed, making it harder to
get the pin through the tight-fitting cross hole in the 5/16 inch
diameter shaft.

The driving tool must prevent splaying, or everything will jam
tight.

Joe Gwinn

Are these the multi-turn coiled "Spring" pins of thin sheetmetal?

There's a youtube video about them but I can't check it on dialup.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qhTRqKU7JTw

-jsw

On Fri, 23 Jan 2015 21:39:25 -0500, Joe Gwinn
wrote:

In article , Jim Wilkins
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 23 Jan 2015 10:22:31 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Joe Gwinn" wrote in message
.. .
...

Now that I have the bearings in hand, time to install them. First
issue
is how to get at the arbor. My initial approach was to unbolt the
cast-iron table top (TAB-101) and remove it from the sheet-metal
housing
(TAB-110-S). This approach was abandoned because it was too much
trouble to get the two hand-wheel shafts disentangled from the
sheet
metal housing because the tension pins (SP-2711) are difficult to
remove
undamaged without a special tool to prevent the pin from splaying
and
jamming as it is driven out.
...

Joe Gwinn

Nice writeup.

Ditto.


I haven't had a problem removing or installing dowel, taper and roll
pins with standard flat-ended drift punches, or custom length /
diameter punches turned from steel or brass welding rod. If access
is
poor you could drill the end of rod stock to make a starter punch
that
holds the pin in line.

Also, consider installing springy roll pins vs the tapers.
Sometimes
it works, sometimes not.

Using a slightly smaller punch with tape around the end (to center
it)
can work, too. The pin never touches the sides.

The taper pins are on my South Bend lathe, which I'm trying to keep
original, or at least not damage it when installing homebrew
replacements for missing parts. .

There are gunsmithing roll pin punches with a centering dimple that
keeps the punch from scratching the finish. I couldn't care less on
most of the stuff I have that uses roll pins.

The pins I didn't drive out are roll pins, not taper pins. The pin
sticks out about 1/4 inch on either The problem is that as one tried to
drive the pin out, the end being driven splayed, making it harder to
get the pin through the tight-fitting cross hole in the 5/16 inch
diameter shaft.

The driving tool must prevent splaying, or everything will jam tight.

I've never had a problem getting the extended pin to seat so I could
use a punch. Small hammers are your friend, and they don't splay the
exposed roll pin. My 4oz warrington gets a lot of use, as does my
little Japanese style hammer and a brass hammer.

Finding the exact diameter punch to move the pin out is critical. If
it has too much clearance, you'll damage both the roll pin and the
shaft. Got a set of transfer punches? It gives you a much better
selection, so you can find that nice, close fit.


--
If we can ever make red tape nutritional, we can feed the world.
--Robert Schaeberle

On Fri, 23 Jan 2015 22:34:35 -0500
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

snip
Are these the multi-turn coiled "Spring" pins of thin sheetmetal?

There's a youtube video about them but I can't check it on dialup.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qhTRqKU7JTw

Good video/idea. He uses a u-shaped backing plate with a hole in it for
the roll pin to pass through as it is pushed out. Two long bolts attach
said plate to an old fly-wheel puller. Starting out the fly-wheel
puller is just used to take up slack. The two long bolts holding the
u-plate to the fly-wheel puller are tightened back and forth to apply
pressure. Once the roll pin is moving well you can then use the
fly-wheel puller screw to finish pushing it out.

Brownell's has a video showing how their roll pin punches are used too:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k4_k8OvjwAY

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 23 Jan 2015 22:34:35 -0500
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

snip

Brownell's has a video showing how their roll pin punches are used
too:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k4_k8OvjwAY
--
Leon Fisk

I've seen someone grab a roll pin with the wire cutters on
electricians pliers and lever it out. This destroys the pin and
damages the pliers but puts less stress on the shaft than hammering.

-jsw

In article , Jim Wilkins
wrote:

"Joe Gwinn" wrote in message
...
In article , Jim Wilkins
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 23 Jan 2015 10:22:31 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Joe Gwinn" wrote in message
.. .
...

Now that I have the bearings in hand, time to install them.
First
issue
is how to get at the arbor. My initial approach was to unbolt
the
cast-iron table top (TAB-101) and remove it from the
sheet-metal
housing
(TAB-110-S). This approach was abandoned because it was too
much
trouble to get the two hand-wheel shafts disentangled from the
sheet
metal housing because the tension pins (SP-2711) are difficult
to
remove
undamaged without a special tool to prevent the pin from
splaying
and
jamming as it is driven out.
...

Joe Gwinn

Nice writeup.

Ditto.


I haven't had a problem removing or installing dowel, taper and
roll
pins with standard flat-ended drift punches, or custom length /
diameter punches turned from steel or brass welding rod. If
access
is
poor you could drill the end of rod stock to make a starter punch
that
holds the pin in line.

Also, consider installing springy roll pins vs the tapers.
Sometimes
it works, sometimes not.

Using a slightly smaller punch with tape around the end (to
center
it)
can work, too. The pin never touches the sides.

The taper pins are on my South Bend lathe, which I'm trying to keep
original, or at least not damage it when installing homebrew
replacements for missing parts. .

There are gunsmithing roll pin punches with a centering dimple that
keeps the punch from scratching the finish. I couldn't care less on
most of the stuff I have that uses roll pins.

The pins I didn't drive out are roll pins, not taper pins. The pin
sticks out about 1/4 inch on either The problem is that as one tried
to drive the pin out, the end being driven splayed, making it harder to
get the pin through the tight-fitting cross hole in the 5/16 inch
diameter shaft.

The driving tool must prevent splaying, or everything will jam
tight.

Joe Gwinn

Are these the multi-turn coiled "Spring" pins of thin sheetmetal?

No, they are one-turn slotted spring pins, also known as roll pins, of
1/8" nominal diameter by about 3/4" long.


There's a youtube video about them but I can't check it on dialup.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qhTRqKU7JTw

Interesting. I was thinking of making just such a tool, only a bit
smaller, to fit a 5/16" shaft and a much smaller roll pin.

I would machine the pushing screw tip to have a concave end, so it
tends to compress the free end of the roll pin, versus causing
splaying.

I was thinking of a solid piece of steel that one slips over the 5/16
shaft, with carefully positioned slots to accept the protruding ends of
the roll pin, and a threaded hole for the pusher screw to travel in.

Turns out one can buy such tools for small money:

...http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1..._red_ppt13_rol
l_pin_remover_for_clutch_cylinder.html

..http://www.ezred.com/product/pin-remover/

But no dimensions are given, so it's unclear if these particular ones
will work.


Joe Gwinn

In article , Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Fri, 23 Jan 2015 22:34:35 -0500
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

snip
Are these the multi-turn coiled "Spring" pins of thin sheetmetal?

There's a youtube video about them but I can't check it on dialup.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qhTRqKU7JTw

Good video/idea. He uses a u-shaped backing plate with a hole in it for
the roll pin to pass through as it is pushed out. Two long bolts attach
said plate to an old fly-wheel puller. Starting out the fly-wheel
puller is just used to take up slack. The two long bolts holding the
u-plate to the fly-wheel puller are tightened back and forth to apply
pressure. Once the roll pin is moving well you can then use the
fly-wheel puller screw to finish pushing it out.

Brownell's has a video showing how their roll pin punches are used too:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k4_k8OvjwAY

Also interesting. One problem with the hammer method is that with the
say, things are far floppier than with a gun body, so I would guess
that the screw pusher method will be easier to use.

I bet that Delta used a standard automotive roll pin remover, rather
than invent their own special tool.

Joe Gwinn

In article , Jim Wilkins
wrote:

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 23 Jan 2015 22:34:35 -0500
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

snip

Brownell's has a video showing how their roll pin punches are used
too:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k4_k8OvjwAY
--
Leon Fisk

I've seen someone grab a roll pin with the wire cutters on
electricians pliers and lever it out. This destroys the pin and
damages the pliers but puts less stress on the shaft than hammering.

I have done this on other things, but it's hard to avoid damaging the
shaft as well. Nor is there enough space.

Joe Gwinn

In article , Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Fri, 23 Jan 2015 21:39:25 -0500, Joe Gwinn
wrote:

In article , Jim Wilkins
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 23 Jan 2015 10:22:31 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Joe Gwinn" wrote in message
.. .
...

Now that I have the bearings in hand, time to install them. First
issue
is how to get at the arbor. My initial approach was to unbolt the
cast-iron table top (TAB-101) and remove it from the sheet-metal
housing
(TAB-110-S). This approach was abandoned because it was too much
trouble to get the two hand-wheel shafts disentangled from the
sheet
metal housing because the tension pins (SP-2711) are difficult to
remove
undamaged without a special tool to prevent the pin from splaying
and
jamming as it is driven out.
...

Joe Gwinn

Nice writeup.

Ditto.


I haven't had a problem removing or installing dowel, taper and roll
pins with standard flat-ended drift punches, or custom length /
diameter punches turned from steel or brass welding rod. If access
is
poor you could drill the end of rod stock to make a starter punch
that
holds the pin in line.

Also, consider installing springy roll pins vs the tapers.
Sometimes
it works, sometimes not.

Using a slightly smaller punch with tape around the end (to center
it)
can work, too. The pin never touches the sides.

The taper pins are on my South Bend lathe, which I'm trying to keep
original, or at least not damage it when installing homebrew
replacements for missing parts. .

There are gunsmithing roll pin punches with a centering dimple that
keeps the punch from scratching the finish. I couldn't care less on
most of the stuff I have that uses roll pins.

The pins I didn't drive out are roll pins, not taper pins. The pin
sticks out about 1/4 inch on either The problem is that as one tried to
drive the pin out, the end being driven splayed, making it harder to
get the pin through the tight-fitting cross hole in the 5/16 inch
diameter shaft.

The driving tool must prevent splaying, or everything will jam tight.

I've never had a problem getting the extended pin to seat so I could
use a punch. Small hammers are your friend, and they don't splay the
exposed roll pin. My 4oz warrington gets a lot of use, as does my
little Japanese style hammer and a brass hammer.

Finding the exact diameter punch to move the pin out is critical. If
it has too much clearance, you'll damage both the roll pin and the
shaft. Got a set of transfer punches? It gives you a much better
selection, so you can find that nice, close fit.

I do have transfer punches and small brass hammers. But in the saw,
everything bounces, and the free end of the roll pin (which protrudes
by at two diameters) tended to splay, causing jamming. I was afraid to
be too aggressive. A roll pin removal tool is safer and easier on the
nerves.

Joe Gwinn

On Sat, 24 Jan 2015 10:41:31 -0500, Joe Gwinn
wrote:

In article , Larry Jaques
wrote:

Finding the exact diameter punch to move the pin out is critical. If
it has too much clearance, you'll damage both the roll pin and the
shaft. Got a set of transfer punches? It gives you a much better
selection, so you can find that nice, close fit.

I do have transfer punches and small brass hammers. But in the saw,
everything bounces, and the free end of the roll pin (which protrudes
by at two diameters) tended to splay, causing jamming. I was afraid to
be too aggressive. A roll pin removal tool is safer and easier on the
nerves.

I hate it when things bounce around when I'm trying to hammer on 'em.
It's fairly easy, though, to find a backer which will stop that
movement, like a brick wrapped in a hand towel. (Yes, we Oregonians
often use such high-tech solutions.) Getting the right mass of hammer
to work with the particular situation is also key. Faster swings with
less mass usually work better than slower swings with a bigarse Ford
hammah, but too small a hammer is also bad. You already have the
experience for that, right? I'm just reminding you.

That said, pullers definitely have their uses. It just takes 3-6
hands and a grinder every freakin' time you use one. sigh I have at
least half a dozen pullers in my toolbox. I even bought one to remove
the plastic idler screw limit caps off California carburetors back in
the '80s, when I had my smog license. And I've made a small puller
from a piece of plumber's tape, 2 square nuts, and a screw. Whatever
it takes to get into the small space in which you need to work.
http://tinyurl.com/pf5ozb4

--
If we can ever make red tape nutritional, we can feed the world.
--Robert Schaeberle

On Sat, 24 Jan 2015 09:02:02 -0500
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

snip
I've seen someone grab a roll pin with the wire cutters on
electricians pliers and lever it out. This destroys the pin and
damages the pliers but puts less stress on the shaft than hammering.

I've an old pair, maybe 7 to 8 inch SK Diagonal Cutters with a slight
offset in their jaw alignment that I use for such stuff. Mostly for
pulling out nails where I am trying to minimize damage to the
underlying wood. Once you give up on having perfect jaws that will cut
fine stranded wire they work amazingly well for such abusive stuff

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

On Sat, 24 Jan 2015 10:29:54 -0500
Joe Gwinn wrote:

snip
Turns out one can buy such tools for small money:

..http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1..._red_ppt13_rol
l_pin_remover_for_clutch_cylinder.html

..http://www.ezred.com/product/pin-remover/

But no dimensions are given, so it's unclear if these particular ones
will work.

Kind of had something like those pictured in my mind for that. Think
you could use a C-clamp with a few mods to it for same. Or a
"Kant-Twist" if you want to splurge. You can apply a lot of force with
one of the latter:

http://clampmfg.com/kant-twist/

Maybe drill a hole through the two blocks for the sizes you need.
Should still work fine as a regular clamp then too.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

"Joe Gwinn" wrote in message
...
In article , Jim Wilkins
wrote:

There's a youtube video about them but I can't check it on dialup.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qhTRqKU7JTw

Interesting. I was thinking of making just such a tool, only a bit
smaller, to fit a 5/16" shaft and a much smaller roll pin.

I would machine the pushing screw tip to have a concave end, so it
tends to compress the free end of the roll pin, versus causing
splaying.

I was thinking of a solid piece of steel that one slips over the
5/16
shaft, with carefully positioned slots to accept the protruding ends
of
the roll pin, and a threaded hole for the pusher screw to travel in.

Turns out one can buy such tools for small money:

..http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1..._red_ppt13_rol
l_pin_remover_for_clutch_cylinder.html

..http://www.ezred.com/product/pin-remover/

But no dimensions are given, so it's unclear if these particular
ones
will work.


Joe Gwinn

A beam clamp and a cup point setscrew?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Superstru...0-25/100149960
-jsw

On Fri, 23 Jan 2015 21:39:25 -0500, Joe Gwinn
wrote:

In article , Jim Wilkins
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 23 Jan 2015 10:22:31 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Joe Gwinn" wrote in message
.. .
...

Now that I have the bearings in hand, time to install them. First
issue
is how to get at the arbor. My initial approach was to unbolt the
cast-iron table top (TAB-101) and remove it from the sheet-metal
housing
(TAB-110-S). This approach was abandoned because it was too much
trouble to get the two hand-wheel shafts disentangled from the
sheet
metal housing because the tension pins (SP-2711) are difficult to
remove
undamaged without a special tool to prevent the pin from splaying
and
jamming as it is driven out.
...

Joe Gwinn

Nice writeup.

Ditto.


I haven't had a problem removing or installing dowel, taper and roll
pins with standard flat-ended drift punches, or custom length /
diameter punches turned from steel or brass welding rod. If access
is
poor you could drill the end of rod stock to make a starter punch
that
holds the pin in line.

Also, consider installing springy roll pins vs the tapers.
Sometimes
it works, sometimes not.

Using a slightly smaller punch with tape around the end (to center
it)
can work, too. The pin never touches the sides.

The taper pins are on my South Bend lathe, which I'm trying to keep
original, or at least not damage it when installing homebrew
replacements for missing parts. .

There are gunsmithing roll pin punches with a centering dimple that
keeps the punch from scratching the finish. I couldn't care less on
most of the stuff I have that uses roll pins.

The pins I didn't drive out are roll pins, not taper pins. The pin
sticks out about 1/4 inch on either The problem is that as one tried to
drive the pin out, the end being driven splayed, making it harder to
get the pin through the tight-fitting cross hole in the 5/16 inch
diameter shaft.

The driving tool must prevent splaying, or everything will jam tight.

Joe Gwinn

With roll pins..you chamfer the end that goes in on your grinder/belt
sander and then they go in easily. Doesnt take an effort to drive in
a roll pin.

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

On Fri, 23 Jan 2015 21:35:36 -0500, Joe Gwinn
wrote:

In article , Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

Great write up. If you could locate the other Delta Homecraft 8-inch
Bench Model Tilting Arbor Saw owner, he would probably appreciate a
copy. BG

Oh, there is a whole community. They made millions of these saws, and
they were made very well. I'll probably post in that world, if I
figure out where best to do this. Dried-out bearings is a common
problem.

Joe Gwinn

Literally millions of them were made and sold.


"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

In article , Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 24 Jan 2015 10:41:31 -0500, Joe Gwinn
wrote:

In article , Larry Jaques
wrote:

Finding the exact diameter punch to move the pin out is critical. If
it has too much clearance, you'll damage both the roll pin and the
shaft. Got a set of transfer punches? It gives you a much better
selection, so you can find that nice, close fit.

I do have transfer punches and small brass hammers. But in the saw,
everything bounces, and the free end of the roll pin (which protrudes
by at two diameters) tended to splay, causing jamming. I was afraid to
be too aggressive. A roll pin removal tool is safer and easier on the
nerves.

I hate it when things bounce around when I'm trying to hammer on 'em.
It's fairly easy, though, to find a backer which will stop that
movement, like a brick wrapped in a hand towel. (Yes, we Oregonians
often use such high-tech solutions.) Getting the right mass of hammer
to work with the particular situation is also key. Faster swings with
less mass usually work better than slower swings with a bigarse Ford
hammah, but too small a hammer is also bad. You already have the
experience for that, right? I'm just reminding you.

Oh, yes. It's hard to explain to SWMBO why I need all those hammers.

Anyway, it's hard to swing a hammer there without hitting something
unrelated.


That said, pullers definitely have their uses. It just takes 3-6
hands and a grinder every freakin' time you use one. sigh I have at
least half a dozen pullers in my toolbox. I even bought one to remove
the plastic idler screw limit caps off California carburetors back in
the '80s, when I had my smog license. And I've made a small puller
from a piece of plumber's tape, 2 square nuts, and a screw. Whatever
it takes to get into the small space in which you need to work.
http://tinyurl.com/pf5ozb4

You are thinking 3-jaw puller, for which one needs four hands.

These roll pin removers push the pin out, and so only require two
hands. And no hammer.

Joe Gwinn

In article , Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Sat, 24 Jan 2015 10:29:54 -0500
Joe Gwinn wrote:

snip
Turns out one can buy such tools for small money:

..http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1..._red_ppt13_rol
l_pin_remover_for_clutch_cylinder.html

..http://www.ezred.com/product/pin-remover/

But no dimensions are given, so it's unclear if these particular ones
will work.

Kind of had something like those pictured in my mind for that. Think
you could use a C-clamp with a few mods to it for same. Or a
"Kant-Twist" if you want to splurge. You can apply a lot of force with
one of the latter:

http://clampmfg.com/kant-twist/

Maybe drill a hole through the two blocks for the sizes you need.
Should still work fine as a regular clamp then too.

I have a bunch of these. The problem is that you would have to drill
through the hinge pin on the clamp.

A beam clamp (suggested elsewhere) could be adapted though.

Joe Gwinn

In article , Jim Wilkins
wrote:

"Joe Gwinn" wrote in message
...
In article , Jim Wilkins
wrote:

There's a youtube video about them but I can't check it on dialup.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qhTRqKU7JTw

Interesting. I was thinking of making just such a tool, only a bit
smaller, to fit a 5/16" shaft and a much smaller roll pin.

I would machine the pushing screw tip to have a concave end, so it
tends to compress the free end of the roll pin, versus causing
splaying.

I was thinking of a solid piece of steel that one slips over the
5/16
shaft, with carefully positioned slots to accept the protruding ends
of
the roll pin, and a threaded hole for the pusher screw to travel in.

Turns out one can buy such tools for small money:

..http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1..._red_ppt13_rol
l_pin_remover_for_clutch_cylinder.html

..http://www.ezred.com/product/pin-remover/

But no dimensions are given, so it's unclear if these particular
ones
will work.


Joe Gwinn

A beam clamp and a cup point setscrew?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Superstrut-1-in-x-1-1-4-in-Beam-Clamp-Z500-25/100149960

This could work, especially if I cut a V-slot in the bottom of the
clamp, to accurately locate the 5/16 shaft. Or I may just fabricate
this from a hunk of mild steel.

Joe Gwinn

On Sat, 24 Jan 2015 14:29:25 -0500, Joe Gwinn
wrote:

In article , Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 24 Jan 2015 10:41:31 -0500, Joe Gwinn
wrote:

In article , Larry Jaques
wrote:

Finding the exact diameter punch to move the pin out is critical. If
it has too much clearance, you'll damage both the roll pin and the
shaft. Got a set of transfer punches? It gives you a much better
selection, so you can find that nice, close fit.

I do have transfer punches and small brass hammers. But in the saw,
everything bounces, and the free end of the roll pin (which protrudes
by at two diameters) tended to splay, causing jamming. I was afraid to
be too aggressive. A roll pin removal tool is safer and easier on the
nerves.

I hate it when things bounce around when I'm trying to hammer on 'em.
It's fairly easy, though, to find a backer which will stop that
movement, like a brick wrapped in a hand towel. (Yes, we Oregonians
often use such high-tech solutions.) Getting the right mass of hammer
to work with the particular situation is also key. Faster swings with
less mass usually work better than slower swings with a bigarse Ford
hammah, but too small a hammer is also bad. You already have the
experience for that, right? I'm just reminding you.

Oh, yes. It's hard to explain to SWMBO why I need all those hammers.

Anyway, it's hard to swing a hammer there without hitting something
unrelated.

Well, if you can turn that shaft...


That said, pullers definitely have their uses. It just takes 3-6
hands and a grinder every freakin' time you use one. sigh I have at
least half a dozen pullers in my toolbox. I even bought one to remove
the plastic idler screw limit caps off California carburetors back in
the '80s, when I had my smog license. And I've made a small puller
from a piece of plumber's tape, 2 square nuts, and a screw. Whatever
it takes to get into the small space in which you need to work.
http://tinyurl.com/pf5ozb4

You are thinking 3-jaw puller, for which one needs four hands.

True, but I've had finicky 2-jaw pullers which required more hands
than I was born with.


These roll pin removers push the pin out, and so only require two
hands. And no hammer.

g

--
If we can ever make red tape nutritional, we can feed the world.
--Robert Schaeberle

"Joe Gwinn" wrote in message
...
In article , Jim Wilkins
wrote:


A beam clamp and a cup point setscrew?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Superstrut-1-in-x-1-1-4-in-Beam-Clamp-Z500-25/100149960

This could work, especially if I cut a V-slot in the bottom of the
clamp, to accurately locate the 5/16 shaft. Or I may just fabricate
this from a hunk of mild steel.

Joe Gwinn

It might be easier to clamp it on its side in the mill vise and
"drill" half a hole with an end mill that intersects the clamp screw
centerline.
-jsw

In article , Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 24 Jan 2015 14:29:25 -0500, Joe Gwinn
wrote:

In article , Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 24 Jan 2015 10:41:31 -0500, Joe Gwinn
wrote:

In article , Larry Jaques
wrote:

Finding the exact diameter punch to move the pin out is critical. If
it has too much clearance, you'll damage both the roll pin and the
shaft. Got a set of transfer punches? It gives you a much better
selection, so you can find that nice, close fit.

I do have transfer punches and small brass hammers. But in the saw,
everything bounces, and the free end of the roll pin (which protrudes
by at two diameters) tended to splay, causing jamming. I was afraid to
be too aggressive. A roll pin removal tool is safer and easier on the
nerves.

I hate it when things bounce around when I'm trying to hammer on 'em.
It's fairly easy, though, to find a backer which will stop that
movement, like a brick wrapped in a hand towel. (Yes, we Oregonians
often use such high-tech solutions.) Getting the right mass of hammer
to work with the particular situation is also key. Faster swings with
less mass usually work better than slower swings with a bigarse Ford
hammah, but too small a hammer is also bad. You already have the
experience for that, right? I'm just reminding you.

Oh, yes. It's hard to explain to SWMBO why I need all those hammers.

Anyway, it's hard to swing a hammer there without hitting something
unrelated.

Well, if you can turn that shaft...

Still too close to the housing, under the table. And everything
bounces, so it's hard to generate sufficient force without bending
something. Pusher is easier.


That said, pullers definitely have their uses. It just takes 3-6
hands and a grinder every freakin' time you use one. sigh I have at
least half a dozen pullers in my toolbox. I even bought one to remove
the plastic idler screw limit caps off California carburetors back in
the '80s, when I had my smog license. And I've made a small puller
from a piece of plumber's tape, 2 square nuts, and a screw. Whatever
it takes to get into the small space in which you need to work.
http://tinyurl.com/pf5ozb4

You are thinking 3-jaw puller, for which one needs four hands.

True, but I've had finicky 2-jaw pullers which required more hands
than I was born with.

Yes. This takes three hands.

I actually have better luck with three-jaw pullers, unless only a
two-jaw will fit. But it's still pretty fiddly.


These roll pin removers push the pin out, and so only require two
hands. And no hammer.

g

I think that we have proven that to use a gear puller, one must be a
Hindu deity.


Joe Gwinn

In article , Jim Wilkins
wrote:

"Joe Gwinn" wrote in message
...
In article , Jim Wilkins
wrote:


A beam clamp and a cup point setscrew?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Superstru...lamp-Z500-25/1
00149960

This could work, especially if I cut a V-slot in the bottom of the
clamp, to accurately locate the 5/16 shaft. Or I may just fabricate
this from a hunk of mild steel.

Joe Gwinn

It might be easier to clamp it on its side in the mill vise and
"drill" half a hole with an end mill that intersects the clamp screw
centerline.

Yes. I was thinking of using a 5/16" end mill to make a cylindrical
seat. But I don't know if beam clamps come with suitable proportions
for a roll pin that's at least 3/4" long, and yet narrow enough to be
able to work with 1/4" from 5/16" shaft to housing.

Joe Gwinn

On Sat, 24 Jan 2015 15:06:49 -0500
Joe Gwinn wrote:

In article , Leon Fisk
wrote:
snip
Kind of had something like those pictured in my mind for that. Think
you could use a C-clamp with a few mods to it for same. Or a
"Kant-Twist" if you want to splurge. You can apply a lot of force with
one of the latter:

http://clampmfg.com/kant-twist/

Maybe drill a hole through the two blocks for the sizes you need.
Should still work fine as a regular clamp then too.

I have a bunch of these. The problem is that you would have to drill
through the hinge pin on the clamp.

A beam clamp (suggested elsewhere) could be adapted though.

Joe Gwinn

That is true but I think a hole that just reached the hinge pin would
be sufficient. One hole/side could hold the push-out pin and the other
could receive the roll pin. Or just remove the latter block and make a
custom block with saddle and hole.

Jim's beam clamp is simpler, especially if you already have one lying
around

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

On Sun, 25 Jan 2015 11:24:00 -0500, Joe Gwinn
wrote:

In article , Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 24 Jan 2015 14:29:25 -0500, Joe Gwinn
wrote:

In article , Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 24 Jan 2015 10:41:31 -0500, Joe Gwinn
wrote:

In article , Larry Jaques
wrote:

Finding the exact diameter punch to move the pin out is critical. If
it has too much clearance, you'll damage both the roll pin and the
shaft. Got a set of transfer punches? It gives you a much better
selection, so you can find that nice, close fit.

I do have transfer punches and small brass hammers. But in the saw,
everything bounces, and the free end of the roll pin (which protrudes
by at two diameters) tended to splay, causing jamming. I was afraid to
be too aggressive. A roll pin removal tool is safer and easier on the
nerves.

I hate it when things bounce around when I'm trying to hammer on 'em.
It's fairly easy, though, to find a backer which will stop that
movement, like a brick wrapped in a hand towel. (Yes, we Oregonians
often use such high-tech solutions.) Getting the right mass of hammer
to work with the particular situation is also key. Faster swings with
less mass usually work better than slower swings with a bigarse Ford
hammah, but too small a hammer is also bad. You already have the
experience for that, right? I'm just reminding you.

Oh, yes. It's hard to explain to SWMBO why I need all those hammers.

Anyway, it's hard to swing a hammer there without hitting something
unrelated.

Well, if you can turn that shaft...

Still too close to the housing, under the table. And everything
bounces, so it's hard to generate sufficient force without bending
something. Pusher is easier.

OK.


That said, pullers definitely have their uses. It just takes 3-6
hands and a grinder every freakin' time you use one. sigh I have at
least half a dozen pullers in my toolbox. I even bought one to remove
the plastic idler screw limit caps off California carburetors back in
the '80s, when I had my smog license. And I've made a small puller
from a piece of plumber's tape, 2 square nuts, and a screw. Whatever
it takes to get into the small space in which you need to work.
http://tinyurl.com/pf5ozb4

You are thinking 3-jaw puller, for which one needs four hands.

True, but I've had finicky 2-jaw pullers which required more hands
than I was born with.

Yes. This takes three hands.

I actually have better luck with three-jaw pullers, unless only a
two-jaw will fit. But it's still pretty fiddly.

"Fiddly" is the perfect (sans-expletive, anyway) word for working with
pullers.


These roll pin removers push the pin out, and so only require two
hands. And no hammer.

g

I think that we have proven that to use a gear puller, one must be a
Hindu deity.

Indeed.

--
If we can ever make red tape nutritional, we can feed the world.
--Robert Schaeberle

In article , Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Sat, 24 Jan 2015 15:06:49 -0500
Joe Gwinn wrote:

In article , Leon Fisk
wrote:
snip
Kind of had something like those pictured in my mind for that. Think
you could use a C-clamp with a few mods to it for same. Or a
"Kant-Twist" if you want to splurge. You can apply a lot of force with
one of the latter:

http://clampmfg.com/kant-twist/

Maybe drill a hole through the two blocks for the sizes you need.
Should still work fine as a regular clamp then too.

I have a bunch of these. The problem is that you would have to drill
through the hinge pin on the clamp.

A beam clamp (suggested elsewhere) could be adapted though.

Joe Gwinn

That is true but I think a hole that just reached the hinge pin would
be sufficient. One hole/side could hold the push-out pin and the other
could receive the roll pin. Or just remove the latter block and make a
custom block with saddle and hole.

Jim's beam clamp is simpler, especially if you already have one lying
around

I didn't, so looked at one at Home Despot. Even the smallest size,
1/4", is too wide to really fit, and the clamp screw is at an angle,
the better to clamp the beam flange.

I've settled on the approach of making my own little tool from a piece
of 1018 cold rolled rectangular bar, which I have on hand.

Joe Gwinn