Just did a job cutting splines in a shaft. Used my
horizontal mill adapter to mount the cutter. R8
taper drive. All went smoothly till today when I
went to break down the setup and put it all
away. That damned nut on the end of the arbor
somehow went tighter than tobies ass and
won't break loose! Since the drive is right
angle it must be a bevel gear setup and I'm
afraid to hit it too hard as it may break a gear
tooth. That would really suck. The cutter did
not have a keyway drive in case you're
wondering. So, what do you guys do in this
situation? I'm planning on making a setup
to support each end and since the R8 end
has a keyway that should stop the turning
enough to break it free. Thoughts?
phil k.

"Phil Kangas" fired this volley in news:lmdgkq
:

Thoughts?


Phil, unless it has a wrenching flat on the arbor against which to pull,
the only option you have is to grip - and probably sacrifice at least part
of - the cutter. You _cannot_ torque indiscriminately against the shaft.

Lloyd

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com fired this volley in
. 3.70:

You _cannot_ torque indiscriminately against the shaft.



PS... a little heat _might_ help.

L

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in message
"Phil Kangas"
fired this volley in


Thoughts?


Phil, unless it has a wrenching flat on the
arbor against which to pull,
the only option you have is to grip - and
probably sacrifice at least part
of - the cutter. You _cannot_ torque
indiscriminately against the shaft.

Lloyd

Hmmm... kinda hate to destroy an $80 cutter.
Perhaps a good
holding fixture and a little heat (below tempering
temp) to
expand it all and let it cool to shrink before
turning may do it.
Seems to me attempting to turn it while hot is
worse. But the
dimension change in the heating cycle _may_ work!
The nut is an easy fit on its thread so the
problem must be
the compression friction between the spacers so
even a
small change of dimension will affect that
friction. Hmmm...

On 2014-05-31, Phil Kangas wrote:

[ ... ]

Hmmm... kinda hate to destroy an $80 cutter.
Perhaps a good
holding fixture and a little heat (below tempering
temp) to
expand it all and let it cool to shrink before
turning may do it.
Seems to me attempting to turn it while hot is
worse. But the
dimension change in the heating cycle _may_ work!
The nut is an easy fit on its thread so the
problem must be
the compression friction between the spacers so
even a
small change of dimension will affect that
friction. Hmmm...

Just a thought. Some arbors have a left-hand thread. Are you
sure you are turning it the right way?

And beware -- the keyway in an R8 is not designed to take
torque, It is intended to keep the arbor or collet from spinning while
you thread in the drawbar. The tapered end is that handles the torque
when cutting, given a good torque on the drawbar. perhaps if you
machine a guide for the straight part of the shank and the proper taper
for the holding part of the R8, put in a makeshift drawbar bolt, and set
up a block to support the other end of the arbor, you can get it.

Good Luck,
DoN.

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--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

I don't know how a horizontal adapter works, but I do have a horizontal
mill. I had the same problem with trying to hold the arbor while
removing the nut. What I did was remove the arbor from the spindle
(with the cutter still mounted) and grind flats on the inboard shoulder
of the arbor.

Then I made an open-end wrench to fit the flats and that was as thin as
the shoulder.

Bob

On Sat, 31 May 2014 17:12:58 -0400, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:

Just did a job cutting splines in a shaft. Used my
horizontal mill adapter to mount the cutter. R8
taper drive. All went smoothly till today when I
went to break down the setup and put it all
away. That damned nut on the end of the arbor
somehow went tighter than tobies ass and
won't break loose! Since the drive is right
angle it must be a bevel gear setup and I'm
afraid to hit it too hard as it may break a gear
tooth. That would really suck. The cutter did
not have a keyway drive in case you're
wondering. So, what do you guys do in this
situation? I'm planning on making a setup
to support each end and since the R8 end
has a keyway that should stop the turning
enough to break it free. Thoughts?

Get an o/a torch and run a flame down the length of the nut.
That should heat it enough to allow you to loosen it.

Make sure that you lube the nut and cutter surfaces with extreme
pressure grease the next time you assemble them, too. Something we
all tend to forget, on occasion, is that both the threads and the
flats which mate are susceptible to binding.

--
....in order that a man may be happy, it is
necessary that he should not only be capable
of his work, but a good judge of his work.
-- John Ruskin

On Sat, 31 May 2014 17:12:58 -0400, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:

snip
That damned nut on the end of the arbor
somehow went tighter than tobies ass and
won't break loose!
snip

Sometimes we overlook the obvious things -- are you sure
this is a right hand thread?

Have you used any penetrating oil (Ed's Red?*)

If you can get the arbor out, try putting the whole thing in
a deep freeze [check with wife first], let it soak
overnight, and then heat the nut with a fine flame to expand
it without heating the arbor.

It may be helpful to make a clamping set-up for the arbor
out of wood blocks you can clamp in a vise by clamping the
block to gather and drilling an arbor size hole through the
joint, then sanding the faces of the blocks a little to get
some "crush" on the arbor. If you have some handy, a little
rosin can help hold the shaft & prevent turning.

* http://www.handloads.com/articles/?id=9



--
Unka' George

"Gold is the money of kings,
silver is the money of gentlemen,
barter is the money of peasants,
but debt is the money of slaves"

-Norm Franz, "Money and Wealth in the New Millenium"

On 5/31/2014 8:11 PM, F. George McDuffee wrote:

Sometimes we overlook the obvious things -- are you sure
this is a right hand thread?
...

Good point!! My arbor is left handed.

"Bob Engelhardt" wrote
in message ...
On 5/31/2014 8:11 PM, F. George McDuffee wrote:

Sometimes we overlook the obvious things -- are
you sure
this is a right hand thread?
...

Good point!! My arbor is left handed.


This one is right hand thread nut. I was bitching
to myself
about it in the past when the cutter would 'slip'
somehow.
It was the nut backing off that was the problem.
So now
on this one I gave the wrench one last knock with
a one
pound brass knocker to make sure it was tight. It
didn't slip this time but it sure is tight now! So
it's my
fault for overtightening it. heh heh now to get it
loose.
Perhaps grinding of opposing flats on the other
end
_will_ work, ay? Bet it won't take much, one dead
on
blow...

"Phil Kangas"
wrote in message

"Bob Engelhardt"
wrote in message
On 5/31/2014 8:11 PM, F. George McDuffee wrote:

Sometimes we overlook the obvious things --
are you sure
this is a right hand thread?
...

Good point!! My arbor is left handed.


This one is right hand thread nut. I was
bitching to myself
about it in the past when the cutter would
'slip' somehow.
It was the nut backing off that was the problem.
So now
on this one I gave the wrench one last knock
with a one
pound brass knocker to make sure it was tight.
It
didn't slip this time but it sure is tight now!
So it's my
fault for overtightening it. heh heh now to get
it loose.
Perhaps grinding of opposing flats on the other
end
_will_ work, ay? Bet it won't take much, one
dead on
blow...

Just thought of this:
clamp cutter solid in vise with soft jaws.
support nut end with v-block.
strike wrench.
sheesh.. made in china..

"Phil Kangas"
Just thought of this:
clamp cutter solid in vise with soft jaws.
support nut end with v-block.
strike wrench.


It worked! No damage. Hope this
helps someone else. phil k.

On Sat, 31 May 2014 20:37:43 -0400, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


"Bob Engelhardt" wrote
in message ...
On 5/31/2014 8:11 PM, F. George McDuffee wrote:

Sometimes we overlook the obvious things -- are
you sure
this is a right hand thread?
...

Good point!! My arbor is left handed.


This one is right hand thread nut. I was bitching
to myself
about it in the past when the cutter would 'slip'
somehow.
It was the nut backing off that was the problem.
So now
on this one I gave the wrench one last knock with
a one
pound brass knocker to make sure it was tight. It
didn't slip this time but it sure is tight now! So
it's my
fault for overtightening it. heh heh now to get it
loose.
Perhaps grinding of opposing flats on the other
end
_will_ work, ay? Bet it won't take much, one dead
on
blow...


=================

If worse comes to worse, a little careful die grinder work
and you should be able to split the nut. Is the nut
hardened? Harbor Freight has some cheap diamond pins .I
have had pretty good luck with these grinding hook in some
small M2 tools. These cut pretty fast without too much force
and or heat. If not hard, you should be able to plunge cut
most of the material with a 3/8 carbide end mill, then the
die grinder and some careful punch work.
http://www.harborfreight.com/20-piec...ips-69653.html
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?P...PARTPG=INLMK32

and then
http://www.amazon.com/Vibra-TITE-907...e+copper+paste

Let the group know what happens


--
Unka' George

"Gold is the money of kings,
silver is the money of gentlemen,
barter is the money of peasants,
but debt is the money of slaves"

-Norm Franz, "Money and Wealth in the New Millenium"

On 5/31/2014 8:37 PM, Phil Kangas wrote:
... I was bitching to myself
about it in the past when the cutter would 'slip' somehow.
It was the nut backing off that was the problem.
So now on this one I gave the wrench one last knock with
a one pound brass knocker to make sure it was tight. It
didn't slip this time but it sure is tight now! ...

I also had the problem with cutters slipping. The cutters had key
slots, but not the arbor. So I cut a key slot in it. I don't remember
how I managed to use the mill to cut the arbor without using the arbor!
I have collets - I musta' used one to hold a stub arbor to hold a cutter.

Bob

"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message
...
On 5/31/2014 8:37 PM, Phil Kangas wrote:
... I was bitching to myself
about it in the past when the cutter would 'slip' somehow.
It was the nut backing off that was the problem.
So now on this one I gave the wrench one last knock with
a one pound brass knocker to make sure it was tight. It
didn't slip this time but it sure is tight now! ...

I also had the problem with cutters slipping. The cutters had key
slots, but not the arbor. So I cut a key slot in it. I don't
remember how I managed to use the mill to cut the arbor without
using the arbor! I have collets - I musta' used one to hold a stub
arbor to hold a cutter.

Bob

Woodruff cutters do a good job on straight slots, better than endmills
unless you need narrower than standard width.
http://www.smithy.com/machining-hand...pter-4/page/53
-jsw

On 2014-06-01, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
On 5/31/2014 8:37 PM, Phil Kangas wrote:
... I was bitching to myself
about it in the past when the cutter would 'slip' somehow.
It was the nut backing off that was the problem.
So now on this one I gave the wrench one last knock with
a one pound brass knocker to make sure it was tight. It
didn't slip this time but it sure is tight now! ...

I also had the problem with cutters slipping. The cutters had key
slots, but not the arbor. So I cut a key slot in it. I don't remember
how I managed to use the mill to cut the arbor without using the arbor!
I have collets - I musta' used one to hold a stub arbor to hold a cutter.

Or perhaps a Woodruff key cutter of the proper width in a collet?

And a keyway broach for the spacer sleeves if they don't already
have a keyway cut in them.

Enjoy,
DoN.

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Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
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--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"Bob Engelhardt"
wrote in message
On 5/31/2014 8:11 PM, F. George McDuffee wrote:

Sometimes we overlook the obvious things -- are
you sure
this is a right hand thread?
...

Good point!! My arbor is left handed.


Seems to me a left hand nut could also get
tight when using a keyless cutter. Now this
raises a new question: how to cut a key
notch in a HSS cutter? ;)}

On Sunday, June 1, 2014 8:17:50 AM UTC-7, Phil Kangas wrote:
"Bob Engelhardt"

wrote in message

On 5/31/2014 8:11 PM, F. George McDuffee wrote:



Sometimes we overlook the obvious things -- are

you sure

this is a right hand thread?

...



Good point!! My arbor is left handed.





Seems to me a left hand nut could also get

tight when using a keyless cutter. Now this

raises a new question: how to cut a key

notch in a HSS cutter? ;)}

Wire EDM.

Try thinking before posting next time you worthless, ****tard.

Phil Kangas wrote:

"Bob Engelhardt"
wrote in message
On 5/31/2014 8:11 PM, F. George McDuffee wrote:

Sometimes we overlook the obvious things -- are
you sure
this is a right hand thread?
...

Good point!! My arbor is left handed.


Seems to me a left hand nut could also get
tight when using a keyless cutter. Now this
raises a new question: how to cut a key
notch in a HSS cutter? ;)}

Grind.

On Sun, 01 Jun 2014 10:53:31 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Phil Kangas wrote:

"Bob Engelhardt"
wrote in message
On 5/31/2014 8:11 PM, F. George McDuffee wrote:

Sometimes we overlook the obvious things -- are
you sure
this is a right hand thread?
...

Good point!! My arbor is left handed.


Seems to me a left hand nut could also get
tight when using a keyless cutter. Now this
raises a new question: how to cut a key
notch in a HSS cutter? ;)}

Grind.

Or chew it out with an EDM.

--
....in order that a man may be happy, it is
necessary that he should not only be capable
of his work, but a good judge of his work.
-- John Ruskin

On Sun, 01 Jun 2014 10:53:31 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Phil Kangas wrote:

"Bob Engelhardt"
wrote in message
On 5/31/2014 8:11 PM, F. George McDuffee wrote:

Sometimes we overlook the obvious things -- are
you sure
this is a right hand thread?
...

Good point!! My arbor is left handed.


Seems to me a left hand nut could also get
tight when using a keyless cutter. Now this
raises a new question: how to cut a key
notch in a HSS cutter? ;)}

Grind.

EDM


"Libertarianism IS fascism... Fascism is corporate government – a Libertarian’s wet dream"
Tala Brandeis
Owner at Tala Brandeis Associates"

"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
...

"Bob Engelhardt"
wrote in message
On 5/31/2014 8:11 PM, F. George McDuffee wrote:

Sometimes we overlook the obvious things -- are you sure
this is a right hand thread?
...

Good point!! My arbor is left handed.


Seems to me a left hand nut could also get
tight when using a keyless cutter. Now this
raises a new question: how to cut a key
notch in a HSS cutter? ;)}

EDM ?

On Sunday, June 1, 2014 4:03:29 PM UTC-7, Bob La Londe wrote:
"Phil Kangas" wrote in message

...



"Bob Engelhardt"

wrote in message

On 5/31/2014 8:11 PM, F. George McDuffee wrote:



Sometimes we overlook the obvious things -- are you sure

this is a right hand thread?

...



Good point!! My arbor is left handed.





Seems to me a left hand nut could also get

tight when using a keyless cutter. Now this

raises a new question: how to cut a key

notch in a HSS cutter? ;)}



EDM ?

That's right DumbBlonde, EDM.

More specifically, wire EDM.

On 2014-06-01, Phil Kangas wrote:

[ ... ]

Seems to me a left hand nut could also get
tight when using a keyless cutter. Now this
raises a new question: how to cut a key
notch in a HSS cutter? ;)}

Wire EDM?

Buy the cutter with the key notch already present?

Enjoy,
DoN.

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--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Sunday, June 1, 2014 9:30:05 PM UTC-7, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2014-06-01, Phil Kangas wrote:



[ ... ]



Seems to me a left hand nut could also get

tight when using a keyless cutter. Now this

raises a new question: how to cut a key

notch in a HSS cutter? ;)}



Wire EDM?



Buy the cutter with the key notch already present?



Enjoy,

DoN.



--

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Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564

(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html

--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---


Already suggested. Try and keep up.

"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
...

Seems to me a left hand nut could also get
tight when using a keyless cutter. Now this
raises a new question: how to cut a key
notch in a HSS cutter? ;)}

Maybe grind a radial notch or slot in the side of the center hole hub
and make a keyed bushing with a matching protrusion, like a dog
clutch? A slot would be easy with a cutoff wheel on a surface grinder.
jsw

"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
...
Just did a job cutting splines in a shaft. Used my
horizontal mill adapter to mount the cutter. R8
taper drive. All went smoothly till today when I
went to break down the setup and put it all
away. That damned nut on the end of the arbor
somehow went tighter than tobies ass and
won't break loose! Since the drive is right
angle it must be a bevel gear setup and I'm
afraid to hit it too hard as it may break a gear
tooth. That would really suck. The cutter did
not have a keyway drive in case you're
wondering. So, what do you guys do in this
situation? I'm planning on making a setup
to support each end and since the R8 end
has a keyway that should stop the turning
enough to break it free. Thoughts?
phil k.

I'd help you, except pretty you called me a jack ass or something over my
political beliefs or ssomething like like that and then supposedly put me in
your killfile.

**** you, ass wipe.

On 6/1/2014 3:09 AM, PrecisionmachinisT wrote:
"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
...
Just did a job cutting splines in a shaft. Used my
horizontal mill adapter to mount the cutter. R8
taper drive. All went smoothly till today when I
went to break down the setup and put it all
away. That damned nut on the end of the arbor
somehow went tighter than tobies ass and
won't break loose! Since the drive is right
angle it must be a bevel gear setup and I'm
afraid to hit it too hard as it may break a gear
tooth. That would really suck. The cutter did
not have a keyway drive in case you're
wondering. So, what do you guys do in this
situation? I'm planning on making a setup
to support each end and since the R8 end
has a keyway that should stop the turning
enough to break it free. Thoughts?
phil k.

I'd help you, except pretty you called me a jack ass or something over my
political beliefs or ssomething like like that and then supposedly put me in
your killfile.

**** you, ass wipe.




Too bad that nobody thinks you have any worth whatsoever. You're
just a bitter, hateful old fart pretender. Don't you find it curious
that everybody calls you a jackass? At least it saves you from parsing
out faulty advise!

Flame away-----show us more of your pure hatred.

"Tom Gardner"
wrote in message On 6/1/2014 3:09 AM,
hacksawmachinisT wrote:

I'd help you, except pretty you called me a
jack ass or something over my
political beliefs or ssomething like like that
and then supposedly put me in
your killfile.

**** you, ass wipe.




Too bad that nobody thinks you have any worth
whatsoever. You're just a bitter, hateful old
fart pretender. Don't you find it curious that
everybody calls you a jackass? At least it
saves you from parsing out faulty advise!

Flame away-----show us more of your pure hatred.

I wonder if hacksawmachinist is also known as
snarl
over in rec.motorcycles.harley . They must both be
snorting bolivian marching powder. ;)}

Phil Kangas wrote:
"Tom Gardner"
wrote in message On 6/1/2014 3:09 AM,
hacksawmachinisT wrote:

I'd help you, except pretty you called me a
jack ass or something over my
political beliefs or ssomething like like that
and then supposedly put me in
your killfile.

**** you, ass wipe.




Too bad that nobody thinks you have any worth
whatsoever. You're just a bitter, hateful old
fart pretender. Don't you find it curious that
everybody calls you a jackass? At least it
saves you from parsing out faulty advise!

Flame away-----show us more of your pure hatred.

I wonder if hacksawmachinist is also known as
snarl
over in rec.motorcycles.harley . They must both be
snorting bolivian marching powder. ;)}

Nope , he's not the same guy . Snarl useta post here too , as Snarl67 or
something like that . Hardly ever posts over at RMH theses days either . Had
a few disagreements with him myself , but that's OK we just have different
perspectives .
--
Snag

On Sunday, June 1, 2014 3:29:10 PM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote:
Phil Kangas wrote:

"Tom Gardner"

wrote in message On 6/1/2014 3:09 AM,

hacksawmachinisT wrote:



I'd help you, except pretty you called me a

jack ass or something over my

political beliefs or ssomething like like that

and then supposedly put me in

your killfile.



**** you, ass wipe.









Too bad that nobody thinks you have any worth

whatsoever. You're just a bitter, hateful old

fart pretender. Don't you find it curious that

everybody calls you a jackass? At least it

saves you from parsing out faulty advise!



Flame away-----show us more of your pure hatred.



I wonder if hacksawmachinist is also known as

snarl

over in rec.motorcycles.harley . They must both be

snorting bolivian marching powder. ;)}



Nope , he's not the same guy . Snarl useta post here too , as Snarl67 or

something like that . Hardly ever posts over at RMH theses days either . Had

a few disagreements with him myself , but that's OK we just have different

perspectives .

--

Snag

In other words he had a clue. You don't and never will.

On Sunday, June 1, 2014 3:02:27 PM UTC-7, Phil Kangas wrote:
"Tom Gardner"

wrote in message On 6/1/2014 3:09 AM,

hacksawmachinisT wrote:



I'd help you, except pretty you called me a

jack ass or something over my

political beliefs or ssomething like like that

and then supposedly put me in

your killfile.



**** you, ass wipe.









Too bad that nobody thinks you have any worth

whatsoever. You're just a bitter, hateful old

fart pretender. Don't you find it curious that

everybody calls you a jackass? At least it

saves you from parsing out faulty advise!



Flame away-----show us more of your pure hatred.



I wonder if hacksawmachinist is also known as

snarl

over in rec.motorcycles.harley . They must both be

snorting bolivian marching powder. ;)}


You wonder about a lot of things Phil because you're a brain dead moron who does very little thinking on your own.

Both you and Tom Gardner are proud members of Mark Wieber's clique of idiots.

On 6/1/2014 6:02 PM, Phil Kangas wrote:
"Tom Gardner"
wrote in message On 6/1/2014 3:09 AM,
hacksawmachinisT wrote:

I'd help you, except pretty you called me a
jack ass or something over my
political beliefs or ssomething like like that
and then supposedly put me in
your killfile.

**** you, ass wipe.




Too bad that nobody thinks you have any worth
whatsoever. You're just a bitter, hateful old
fart pretender. Don't you find it curious that
everybody calls you a jackass? At least it
saves you from parsing out faulty advise!

Flame away-----show us more of your pure hatred.

I wonder if hacksawmachinist is also known as
snarl
over in rec.motorcycles.harley . They must both be
snorting bolivian marching powder. ;)}





So, this "Snarl" doesn't know anything either yet pretends to?
No, I think "Pretend MachinisT is all on his own. Even his imaginary
friends won't acknowledge him.

On Sunday, June 1, 2014 7:49:15 PM UTC-7, Tom Gardner wrote:
On 6/1/2014 6:02 PM, Phil Kangas wrote:

"Tom Gardner"

wrote in message On 6/1/2014 3:09 AM,

hacksawmachinisT wrote:



I'd help you, except pretty you called me a

jack ass or something over my

political beliefs or ssomething like like that

and then supposedly put me in

your killfile.



**** you, ass wipe.









Too bad that nobody thinks you have any worth

whatsoever. You're just a bitter, hateful old

fart pretender. Don't you find it curious that

everybody calls you a jackass? At least it

saves you from parsing out faulty advise!



Flame away-----show us more of your pure hatred.



I wonder if hacksawmachinist is also known as

snarl

over in rec.motorcycles.harley . They must both be

snorting bolivian marching powder. ;)}











So, this "Snarl" doesn't know anything either yet pretends to?

No, I think "Pretend MachinisT is all on his own. Even his imaginary

friends won't acknowledge him.



Fat, drunk and stupid defines Tom Gardner:

http://neme-s.org/Oshkosh_2007/Ohio_Brush/DSC02534.JPG

Tom Gardner wrote:

So, this "Snarl" doesn't know anything either yet pretends to?
No, I think "Pretend MachinisT is all on his own. Even his imaginary
friends won't acknowledge him.


He only imagines that he has imaginary friends.


--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

On Sunday, June 1, 2014 1:42:25 PM UTC-7, Tom Gardner wrote:
On 6/1/2014 3:09 AM, PrecisionmachinisT wrote:

"Phil Kangas" wrote in message

...

Just did a job cutting splines in a shaft. Used my

horizontal mill adapter to mount the cutter. R8

taper drive. All went smoothly till today when I

went to break down the setup and put it all

away. That damned nut on the end of the arbor

somehow went tighter than tobies ass and

won't break loose! Since the drive is right

angle it must be a bevel gear setup and I'm

afraid to hit it too hard as it may break a gear

tooth. That would really suck. The cutter did

not have a keyway drive in case you're

wondering. So, what do you guys do in this

situation? I'm planning on making a setup

to support each end and since the R8 end

has a keyway that should stop the turning

enough to break it free. Thoughts?

phil k.



I'd help you, except pretty you called me a jack ass or something over my

political beliefs or ssomething like like that and then supposedly put me in

your killfile.



**** you, ass wipe.









Too bad that nobody thinks you have any worth whatsoever. You're

just a bitter, hateful old fart pretender. Don't you find it curious

that everybody calls you a jackass? At least it saves you from parsing

out faulty advise!



Flame away-----show us more of your pure hatred.


The fact is that PrecisionmachinisT has more metalworking and mechanical knowledge than any of Mark Wieber's clique of idiots will ever have.

PrecisionmachinisT has built a successful machine shop over many years.

Tom Gardner has the remains of a business his parents gave him that he has run into the ground.

http://neme-s.org/Oshkosh_2007/Ohio_Brush/DSC02534.JPG

http://neme-s.org/Oshkosh_2007/Ohio_Brush/DSC02543.JPG

http://neme-s.org/Oshkosh_2007/Ohio_Brush/DSC02519.JPG

"jon_banquer" wrote in message ...
On Sunday, June 1, 2014 1:42:25 PM UTC-7, Tom Gardner wrote:
On 6/1/2014 3:09 AM, PrecisionmachinisT wrote:

"Phil Kangas" wrote in message

...

Just did a job cutting splines in a shaft. Used my

horizontal mill adapter to mount the cutter. R8

taper drive. All went smoothly till today when I

went to break down the setup and put it all

away. That damned nut on the end of the arbor

somehow went tighter than tobies ass and

won't break loose! Since the drive is right

angle it must be a bevel gear setup and I'm

afraid to hit it too hard as it may break a gear

tooth. That would really suck. The cutter did

not have a keyway drive in case you're

wondering. So, what do you guys do in this

situation? I'm planning on making a setup

to support each end and since the R8 end

has a keyway that should stop the turning

enough to break it free. Thoughts?

phil k.



I'd help you, except pretty you called me a jack ass or something over my

political beliefs or ssomething like like that and then supposedly put me in

your killfile.



**** you, ass wipe.









Too bad that nobody thinks you have any worth whatsoever. You're

just a bitter, hateful old fart pretender. Don't you find it curious

that everybody calls you a jackass? At least it saves you from parsing

out faulty advise!



Flame away-----show us more of your pure hatred.


The fact is that PrecisionmachinisT has more metalworking and mechanical knowledge than any of Mark Wieber's clique of idiots will ever have.

PrecisionmachinisT has built a successful machine shop over many years.

Tom Gardner has the remains of a business his parents gave him that he has run into the ground.

http://neme-s.org/Oshkosh_2007/Ohio_Brush/DSC02534.JPG

http://neme-s.org/Oshkosh_2007/Ohio_Brush/DSC02543.JPG

http://neme-s.org/Oshkosh_2007/Ohio_Brush/DSC02519.JPG



Darwin is rolling in his grave....

I mean, what kind of a person can't get his nut off without first consulting usenet?