My Harris stay bright silver solder flux is all dried out...

tried IPA to redisolve, no joy. Any other suggestions?

Karl

On Thursday, May 8, 2014 8:39:58 AM UTC-7, Karl Townsend wrote:
My Harris stay bright silver solder flux is all dried out...



tried IPA to redisolve, no joy. Any other suggestions?



Karl

Put a little water in it and mix it up.

Karl Townsend wrote:
My Harris stay bright silver solder flux is all dried out...

tried IPA to redisolve, no joy. Any other suggestions?

Karl

Tried water ? I can't see a flux with HC solvents of any kind , my money's
on water .
--
Snag

"Terry Coombs"
wrote in message Karl Townsend wrote:
My Harris stay bright silver solder flux is all
dried out...

tried IPA to redisolve, no joy. Any other
suggestions?

Karl

Tried water ? I can't see a flux with HC
solvents of any kind , my money's on water .
--
Snag



The stuff in the little plastic can with screw on
lid?
Yes, water. Done that many times.

Phil Kangas wrote:
"Terry Coombs"
wrote in message Karl Townsend wrote:
My Harris stay bright silver solder flux is all
dried out...

tried IPA to redisolve, no joy. Any other
suggestions?

Karl

Tried water ? I can't see a flux with HC
solvents of any kind , my money's on water .
--
Snag



The stuff in the little plastic can with screw on
lid?
Yes, water. Done that many times.

Mine are in a ziploc bag because over time the plastic lid cracks and the
stuff dries out . Pain in the a** to have to try to get some usable when you
need it , this way it stays usable .
--
Snag

On Thu, 08 May 2014 10:39:58 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

My Harris stay bright silver solder flux is all dried out...

tried IPA to redisolve, no joy. Any other suggestions?

Karl

For joining which metals? Regular old NoKorrode works on most stuff
and is much easier to work with than the liquid acid fluxes, like
Harris Stay Clean, which are only necessary when you need something
more aggressive. On stainless, for example. And I've never seen that
dry out - I have a bottle of All State Duzall that's old as dirt and
is just fine.

For the folks about to jump on me for suggesting NoKorrode, Stay Brite
is a low temp silver solder. Its melting point is lower than 95-5 lead
free solder's.

--
Ned Simmons

On Thu, 08 May 2014 10:39:58 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

My Harris stay bright silver solder flux is all dried out...

tried IPA to redisolve, no joy. Any other suggestions?

Karl

For joining which metals? Regular old NoKorrode works on most stuff
and is much easier to work with than the liquid acid fluxes, like
Harris Stay Clean, which are only necessary when you need something
more aggressive. On stainless, for example. And I've never seen that
dry out - I have a bottle of All State Duzall that's old as dirt and
is just fine.

For the folks about to jump on me for suggesting NoKorrode, Stay Brite
is a low temp silver solder. Its melting point is lower than 95-5 lead
free solder's.

--
Ned Simmons

On 5/8/2014 4:27 PM, Ned Simmons wrote:
On Thu, 08 May 2014 10:39:58 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

My Harris stay bright silver solder flux is all dried out...

tried IPA to redisolve, no joy. Any other suggestions?

Karl

For joining which metals? Regular old NoKorrode works on most stuff
and is much easier to work with than the liquid acid fluxes, like
Harris Stay Clean, which are only necessary when you need something
more aggressive. On stainless, for example. And I've never seen that
dry out - I have a bottle of All State Duzall that's old as dirt and
is just fine.

For the folks about to jump on me for suggesting NoKorrode, Stay Brite
is a low temp silver solder. Its melting point is lower than 95-5 lead
free solder's.



I didn't know another fan of nocorrode existed! Great stuff, but I've
never used it on silver solder.

On 5/8/2014 11:39 AM, Karl Townsend wrote:
My Harris stay bright silver solder flux is all dried out...

tried IPA to redisolve, no joy. Any other suggestions?

Karl



The best stuff for silver solder is at your jewelry making supply. My
local guy sells one that is in a spray bottle, he calls it "Crystal
Flux". I don't know if it is a commercial product or his home brew.
But, your guy will have something similar, I bet.

On Thu, 8 May 2014 12:44:58 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Phil Kangas wrote:
"Terry Coombs"
wrote in message Karl Townsend wrote:
My Harris stay bright silver solder flux is all
dried out...

tried IPA to redisolve, no joy. Any other
suggestions?

Karl

Tried water ? I can't see a flux with HC
solvents of any kind , my money's on water .
--
Snag



The stuff in the little plastic can with screw on
lid?
Yes, water. Done that many times.

Mine are in a ziploc bag because over time the plastic lid cracks and the
stuff dries out . Pain in the a** to have to try to get some usable when you
need it , this way it stays usable .

water disolved it, thanks

Karl

I've been using plain old borax/water for years on gold and silver.

"Karl Townsend"
wrote in message
On Thu, 8 May 2014 12:44:58 -0500,
"Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Phil Kangas wrote:
"Terry Coombs"
wrote in message Karl Townsend wrote:
My Harris stay bright silver solder flux is
all
dried out...

tried IPA to redisolve, no joy. Any other
suggestions?

Karl

Tried water ? I can't see a flux with HC
solvents of any kind , my money's on water .
--
Snag



The stuff in the little plastic can with screw
on
lid?
Yes, water. Done that many times.

Mine are in a ziploc bag because over time the
plastic lid cracks and the
stuff dries out . Pain in the a** to have to try
to get some usable when you
need it , this way it stays usable .

water disolved it, thanks

Karl


urr velkum, ay? ;)}

On Thu, 08 May 2014 10:39:58 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

My Harris stay bright silver solder flux is all dried out...

tried IPA to redisolve, no joy. Any other suggestions?

Karl
I juust keep adding a bit of water and mush it around in the
container, been using the same 8oz. container of H&H" Handi Flux" for
around 40 years.
---

Gerry :-)}
London,Canada

Karl asked about silver solder flux:

Karl, did you ever mention what you were soldering together?

For copper and brass (like refrigeration and plumbing), I like the fluxless
(or more precisely 'self-fluxing') silver solders, like Forney's Sil-Flo
(and others). Note that they are NOT coated with or containing a flux of
any kind; their self-fluxing nature has to do with the metallurgy.

Even a trace of even a non-corrosive flux getting loose inside a
refrigeration circuit is a bad idea. Those types of solder eliminate that
chance. That they also make doing a sweat joint so easy that even
beginners can do it well is a boon.

Lloyd

On Fri, 09 May 2014 06:36:51 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Karl asked about silver solder flux:

Karl, did you ever mention what you were soldering together?


http://browningmgs.com/FN/07_FN30build.htm

I had a tiny cresent moon shape part to attach permanently to the top
cover.

Karl

Karl Townsend fired this volley in
:

http://browningmgs.com/FN/07_FN30build.htm

Well, the self-fluxers won't work on steel. They're copper-alloy specific.

Lloyd

On Thu, 08 May 2014 23:38:42 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 08 May 2014 10:39:58 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

My Harris stay bright silver solder flux is all dried out...

tried IPA to redisolve, no joy. Any other suggestions?

Karl
I juust keep adding a bit of water and mush it around in the
container, been using the same 8oz. container of H&H" Handi Flux" for
around 40 years.

+1 on that.

Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC