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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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I have a customer's .410 bore with a hacked up ejector , some idiot ground
the lip off and attempted a repair . The spring is also missing , but that's a minor issue that can be solved at the local hardware store . I need to build this up and reshape it , and planned on using a nickel-based brazing rod - unless someone can suggest a better alternative . If I were a better TIG weldor ... but this is a very small piece and my skills are not up to fine work just yet . O/A is going to be my method of choice this time . Since the shank portion of this piece is case hardened I'll be wrapping it in wet paper towels or something and covering that with foil . Snag |
#2
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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On Sun, 19 Jan 2014 09:04:29 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote: I have a customer's .410 bore with a hacked up ejector , some idiot ground the lip off and attempted a repair . The spring is also missing , but that's a minor issue that can be solved at the local hardware store . I need to build this up and reshape it , and planned on using a nickel-based brazing rod - unless someone can suggest a better alternative . If I were a better TIG weldor ... but this is a very small piece and my skills are not up to fine work just yet . O/A is going to be my method of choice this time . Since the shank portion of this piece is case hardened I'll be wrapping it in wet paper towels or something and covering that with foil . Snag --------------------------------------------------------------- Hi Terry For stopping/slowing down the heat migration take a look at a product called "Heat Fence" by American Chemical and Flux Products, City of Industry, CA 91745. It's a dark gray, paste like 'clay' that you spread over the area you don't want heated. (sample description and pricing he http://www.jandrweldingsupply.com/store/HeatFence.html Should be available at your local welding supply store. Have used it several times and it works better than anything I've used before. Standard disclamer: No connection just a happy user. g HTH Bob rgentryatozdotnet |
#3
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Bob Gentry wrote:
On Sun, 19 Jan 2014 09:04:29 -0600, "Terry Coombs" wrote: I have a customer's .410 bore with a hacked up ejector , some idiot ground the lip off and attempted a repair . The spring is also missing , but that's a minor issue that can be solved at the local hardware store . I need to build this up and reshape it , and planned on using a nickel-based brazing rod - unless someone can suggest a better alternative . If I were a better TIG weldor ... but this is a very small piece and my skills are not up to fine work just yet . O/A is going to be my method of choice this time . Since the shank portion of this piece is case hardened I'll be wrapping it in wet paper towels or something and covering that with foil . Snag --------------------------------------------------------------- Hi Terry For stopping/slowing down the heat migration take a look at a product called "Heat Fence" by American Chemical and Flux Products, City of Industry, CA 91745. It's a dark gray, paste like 'clay' that you spread over the area you don't want heated. (sample description and pricing he http://www.jandrweldingsupply.com/store/HeatFence.html Should be available at your local welding supply store. Have used it several times and it works better than anything I've used before. Standard disclamer: No connection just a happy user. g HTH Bob rgentryatozdotnet I wish we had a real welding supply here ... I'll check the few places auto parts stores and a hardware store that sell welding supplies . Who knows , I might get lucky ! -- Snag Thanks ! |
#4
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"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
... I have a customer's .410 bore with a hacked up ejector , some idiot ground the lip off and attempted a repair . The spring is also missing , but that's a minor issue that can be solved at the local hardware store . I need to build this up and reshape it , and planned on using a nickel-based brazing rod - unless someone can suggest a better alternative . If I were a better TIG weldor ... but this is a very small piece and my skills are not up to fine work just yet . O/A is going to be my method of choice this time . Since the shank portion of this piece is case hardened I'll be wrapping it in wet paper towels or something and covering that with foil . Snag I take it you have already checked Havlin at http://www.havlinsales.com/ and Numrich at http://www.gunpartscorp.com/ to see if either of them have the ejector? I found some of the parts for my prewar Wards/Mossberg restoration last year on-line and through some of the gun related sections on forums. --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com |
#5
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Bob La Londe wrote:
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message ... I have a customer's .410 bore with a hacked up ejector , some idiot ground the lip off and attempted a repair . The spring is also missing , but that's a minor issue that can be solved at the local hardware store . I need to build this up and reshape it , and planned on using a nickel-based brazing rod - unless someone can suggest a better alternative . If I were a better TIG weldor ... but this is a very small piece and my skills are not up to fine work just yet . O/A is going to be my method of choice this time . Since the shank portion of this piece is case hardened I'll be wrapping it in wet paper towels or something and covering that with foil . Snag I take it you have already checked Havlin at http://www.havlinsales.com/ and Numrich at http://www.gunpartscorp.com/ to see if either of them have the ejector? I found some of the parts for my prewar Wards/Mossberg restoration last year on-line and through some of the gun related sections on forums. Thanks for the links ... Havlin doesn't carry it , and Numrich is out of stock . I can get the spring , but it's kinda generic and can be sourced here for less money , no shipping , and right away . -- Snag |
#6
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 19 Jan 2014 16:44:53 -0600, "Terry Coombs" wrote: Bob La Londe wrote: "Terry Coombs" wrote in message ... I have a customer's .410 bore with a hacked up ejector , some idiot ground the lip off and attempted a repair . The spring is also missing , but that's a minor issue that can be solved at the local hardware store . I need to build this up and reshape it , and planned on using a nickel-based brazing rod - unless someone can suggest a better alternative . If I were a better TIG weldor ... but this is a very small piece and my skills are not up to fine work just yet . O/A is going to be my method of choice this time . Since the shank portion of this piece is case hardened I'll be wrapping it in wet paper towels or something and covering that with foil . Snag I take it you have already checked Havlin at http://www.havlinsales.com/ and Numrich at http://www.gunpartscorp.com/ to see if either of them have the ejector? I found some of the parts for my prewar Wards/Mossberg restoration last year on-line and through some of the gun related sections on forums. Thanks for the links ... Havlin doesn't carry it , and Numrich is out of stock . I can get the spring , but it's kinda generic and can be sourced here for less money , no shipping , and right away . Try Bobs Gun Parts http://www.gun-parts.com/index.html/ Thanks , but no luck there either . I do have another shotgun that's identical also the cuetomer's with a good ejector to compare to . I have found the part for several guages , just none for the 410 . -- Snag |
#7
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"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
... I have a customer's .410 bore with a hacked up ejector , some idiot ground the lip off and attempted a repair . The spring is also missing , but that's a minor issue that can be solved at the local hardware store . I need to build this up and reshape it , and planned on using a nickel-based brazing rod - unless someone can suggest a better alternative . If I were a better TIG weldor ... but this is a very small piece and my skills are not up to fine work just yet . O/A is going to be my method of choice this time . Since the shank portion of this piece is case hardened I'll be wrapping it in wet paper towels or something and covering that with foil . Snag How did this repair go? Did you consider machining it from scratch and then case hardening it as an option? --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com |
#8
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Bob La Londe wrote:
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message ... I have a customer's .410 bore with a hacked up ejector , some idiot ground the lip off and attempted a repair . The spring is also missing , but that's a minor issue that can be solved at the local hardware store . I need to build this up and reshape it , and planned on using a nickel-based brazing rod - unless someone can suggest a better alternative . If I were a better TIG weldor ... but this is a very small piece and my skills are not up to fine work just yet . O/A is going to be my method of choice this time . Since the shank portion of this piece is case hardened I'll be wrapping it in wet paper towels or something and covering that with foil . Snag How did this repair go? Did you consider machining it from scratch and then case hardening it as an option? I ended up building it up with 4 strands of ER70S2 .025 MIG wire twisted together using my TIG at 35 amps . Worked out very well . I was a bit leery because I haven't had such great success with low-amp welding in the past . I did consider making it from scratch , but this is an "heirloom" gun and I felt using the original part if possible was better in this case . -- Snag |
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