I had a leak in my truck ('86 GMC 305 V8) heater core a couple (or 3 or 5
....) of years back and instead of trying to repair it I just bought a
replacement from NAPA - cheap because my son works there (his employee
discount , nothing shady) . Cheap looking aluminum unit , but it lasted a
couple of years . The next one lasted less than 6 months ... and the next 3
or 4 each lasted about a month . All properly installed , system flush the
first couple of times , but antifreeze ain't free .
The last one that failed is still in the heater box , though the hose is
now routed from the engine straight into the radiator because it started
leaking while I was halfway home (halfway between Memphis and Mtn View) . So
now fall is coming on , winter will be here soon , and I'm not particularly
inclined to put another "lifetime warranted" NAPA unit in . So what the hall
, I still have the original , and it's out in the shop in a box . Let's see
where it's leaking ... and it turns out the leak is in a place that's easy
to get at to clean and resolder . Cleaned , soldered , and I just pressure
tested it to 25 psi , which is a good bit higher than system pressure .
I love it when something works out this well ! Now I need to pull the
radiator , it started leaking a few weeks ago - and this one is going to be
harder . Aluminum core with plastic tanks , and the water stain is right in
the center of the core . I need to see if it's a surface tube or deep inside
.. Either way , there is really only one way to stop the leak , and that's to
cut/crimp the leaky tube . Shoot a wad of sillycone in there before I crimp
.. If I had more experience and talent I might try to TIG it , but those
tubes are a lot thinner than I can currently manage to weld without blowing
holes .
Then there's the tick that started a few days ago ... High likelihood it's
the fuel pump pushrod . Not sure yet if it's the pump failing or the cam
lobe , but it's also gotta be fixed before the snow flies .
--
Snag
Shade Tree Mechanic
and
Metalworking Hack .

On Thu, 26 Sep 2013 14:41:27 -0500, Snag wrote:

I had a leak in my truck ('86 GMC 305 V8) heater core a couple (or 3 or
5 ...) of years back and instead of trying to repair it I just bought a
replacement from NAPA - cheap because my son works there (his employee
discount , nothing shady) . Cheap looking aluminum unit , but it lasted
a couple of years . The next one lasted less than 6 months ... and the
next 3 or 4 each lasted about a month . All properly installed , system
flush the first couple of times , but antifreeze ain't free .
The last one that failed is still in the heater box , though the hose
is
now routed from the engine straight into the radiator because it started
leaking while I was halfway home (halfway between Memphis and Mtn View)
. So now fall is coming on , winter will be here soon , and I'm not
particularly inclined to put another "lifetime warranted" NAPA unit in .
So what the hall , I still have the original , and it's out in the shop
in a box . Let's see where it's leaking ... and it turns out the leak is
in a place that's easy to get at to clean and resolder . Cleaned ,
soldered , and I just pressure tested it to 25 psi , which is a good bit
higher than system pressure .
I love it when something works out this well ! Now I need to pull the
radiator , it started leaking a few weeks ago - and this one is going to
be harder . Aluminum core with plastic tanks , and the water stain is
right in the center of the core . I need to see if it's a surface tube
or deep inside . Either way , there is really only one way to stop the
leak , and that's to cut/crimp the leaky tube . Shoot a wad of sillycone
in there before I crimp . If I had more experience and talent I might
try to TIG it , but those tubes are a lot thinner than I can currently
manage to weld without blowing holes .
Then there's the tick that started a few days ago ... High likelihood
it's
the fuel pump pushrod . Not sure yet if it's the pump failing or the cam
lobe , but it's also gotta be fixed before the snow flies .
--
Snag
Shade Tree Mechanic and Metalworking Hack .

Are you sure it's the NAPA cores, or is there something else going on?
Did they all break in the same place? Do you have mice in the truck with
carbide teeth?

I'd see if I could get a genny-U-wine GM heater core for the thing, and
see what a radiator shop says about the radiator, but I understand the
whole concept of "limited money" and what that does to one when the long-
term solution is too expensive for the short-term budget.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

On Thu, 26 Sep 2013 14:41:27 -0500, "Snag" wrote:

I had a leak in my truck ('86 GMC 305 V8) heater core a couple (or 3 or 5
...) of years back and instead of trying to repair it I just bought a
replacement from NAPA - cheap because my son works there (his employee
discount , nothing shady) . Cheap looking aluminum unit , but it lasted a
couple of years . The next one lasted less than 6 months ... and the next 3
or 4 each lasted about a month . All properly installed , system flush the
first couple of times , but antifreeze ain't free .
The last one that failed is still in the heater box , though the hose is
now routed from the engine straight into the radiator because it started
leaking while I was halfway home (halfway between Memphis and Mtn View) . So
now fall is coming on , winter will be here soon , and I'm not particularly
inclined to put another "lifetime warranted" NAPA unit in . So what the hall
, I still have the original , and it's out in the shop in a box . Let's see
where it's leaking ... and it turns out the leak is in a place that's easy
to get at to clean and resolder . Cleaned , soldered , and I just pressure
tested it to 25 psi , which is a good bit higher than system pressure .
I love it when something works out this well ! Now I need to pull the
radiator , it started leaking a few weeks ago - and this one is going to be
harder . Aluminum core with plastic tanks , and the water stain is right in
the center of the core . I need to see if it's a surface tube or deep inside
. Either way , there is really only one way to stop the leak , and that's to
cut/crimp the leaky tube . Shoot a wad of sillycone in there before I crimp
. If I had more experience and talent I might try to TIG it , but those
tubes are a lot thinner than I can currently manage to weld without blowing
holes .
Then there's the tick that started a few days ago ... High likelihood it's
the fuel pump pushrod . Not sure yet if it's the pump failing or the cam
lobe , but it's also gotta be fixed before the snow flies .
--
Snag
Shade Tree Mechanic
and
Metalworking Hack .


Caterpillar Tractors sell an epoxy for repairing radiator cores. I've
used it and the cure was apparently permanent, at least for the year
or two until we finished that project.
Or see:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...Epoxy/_/N-259t
or
http://www.urethanesupply.com/radiator.php
--
Cheers,

John B.

On Thu, 26 Sep 2013 14:41:27 -0500, "Snag" wrote:

I had a leak in my truck ('86 GMC 305 V8) heater core a couple (or 3 or 5
...) of years back and instead of trying to repair it I just bought a
replacement from NAPA - cheap because my son works there (his employee
discount , nothing shady) . Cheap looking aluminum unit , but it lasted a
couple of years . The next one lasted less than 6 months ... and the next 3
or 4 each lasted about a month . All properly installed , system flush the
first couple of times , but antifreeze ain't free .
The last one that failed is still in the heater box , though the hose is
now routed from the engine straight into the radiator because it started
leaking while I was halfway home (halfway between Memphis and Mtn View) . So
now fall is coming on , winter will be here soon , and I'm not particularly
inclined to put another "lifetime warranted" NAPA unit in . So what the hall
, I still have the original , and it's out in the shop in a box . Let's see
where it's leaking ... and it turns out the leak is in a place that's easy
to get at to clean and resolder . Cleaned , soldered , and I just pressure
tested it to 25 psi , which is a good bit higher than system pressure .
I love it when something works out this well ! Now I need to pull the
radiator , it started leaking a few weeks ago - and this one is going to be
harder . Aluminum core with plastic tanks , and the water stain is right in
the center of the core . I need to see if it's a surface tube or deep inside
. Either way , there is really only one way to stop the leak , and that's to
cut/crimp the leaky tube . Shoot a wad of sillycone in there before I crimp
. If I had more experience and talent I might try to TIG it , but those
tubes are a lot thinner than I can currently manage to weld without blowing
holes .
Then there's the tick that started a few days ago ... High likelihood it's
the fuel pump pushrod . Not sure yet if it's the pump failing or the cam
lobe , but it's also gotta be fixed before the snow flies .
--
Snag
Shade Tree Mechanic
and
Metalworking Hack .

Subsequent to my other post.

Try a search for "aluminum radiator leaks+electrolysis"
--
Cheers,

John B.

"Tim Wescott" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 26 Sep 2013 14:41:27 -0500, Snag wrote:

I had a leak in my truck ('86 GMC 305 V8) heater core a couple (or 3 or
5 ...) of years back and instead of trying to repair it I just bought a
replacement from NAPA - cheap because my son works there (his employee
discount , nothing shady) . Cheap looking aluminum unit , but it lasted
a couple of years . The next one lasted less than 6 months ... and the
next 3 or 4 each lasted about a month . All properly installed , system
flush the first couple of times , but antifreeze ain't free .
The last one that failed is still in the heater box , though the hose
is
now routed from the engine straight into the radiator because it started
leaking while I was halfway home (halfway between Memphis and Mtn View)
. So now fall is coming on , winter will be here soon , and I'm not
particularly inclined to put another "lifetime warranted" NAPA unit in .
So what the hall , I still have the original , and it's out in the shop
in a box . Let's see where it's leaking ... and it turns out the leak is
in a place that's easy to get at to clean and resolder . Cleaned ,
soldered , and I just pressure tested it to 25 psi , which is a good bit
higher than system pressure .
I love it when something works out this well ! Now I need to pull the
radiator , it started leaking a few weeks ago - and this one is going to
be harder . Aluminum core with plastic tanks , and the water stain is
right in the center of the core . I need to see if it's a surface tube
or deep inside . Either way , there is really only one way to stop the
leak , and that's to cut/crimp the leaky tube . Shoot a wad of sillycone
in there before I crimp . If I had more experience and talent I might
try to TIG it , but those tubes are a lot thinner than I can currently
manage to weld without blowing holes .
Then there's the tick that started a few days ago ... High likelihood
it's
the fuel pump pushrod . Not sure yet if it's the pump failing or the cam
lobe , but it's also gotta be fixed before the snow flies .
--
Snag
Shade Tree Mechanic and Metalworking Hack .

Are you sure it's the NAPA cores, or is there something else going on?
Did they all break in the same place? Do you have mice in the truck with
carbide teeth?

--

Tim Wescott

Every single one of the cores leaked from the same area , the end tank
join to the core or near there . It's not mechanical stress , can't be
electrolysis , and I can't figure it out except that they got a bad run of
product . It got to the point that the store I originally purchased it at
refused to warrant it . Not a big deal now that the original is repaired ,
but I'm going to get one more under warrantee (or try ...) to keep on hand
as a spare . This time it isn't coming from Memphis' warehouse stock , I'll
pick it up here in Arkansas where I now live . The radiator came from the
same source ...
--
Snag

"John B." wrote in message
...
On Thu, 26 Sep 2013 14:41:27 -0500, "Snag" wrote:

I had a leak in my truck ('86 GMC 305 V8) heater core a couple (or 3 or 5
...) of years back and instead of trying to repair it I just bought a
replacement from NAPA - cheap because my son works there (his employee
discount , nothing shady) . Cheap looking aluminum unit , but it lasted a
couple of years . The next one lasted less than 6 months ... and the next
3
or 4 each lasted about a month . All properly installed , system flush the
first couple of times , but antifreeze ain't free .
The last one that failed is still in the heater box , though the hose is
now routed from the engine straight into the radiator because it started
leaking while I was halfway home (halfway between Memphis and Mtn View) .
So
now fall is coming on , winter will be here soon , and I'm not
particularly
inclined to put another "lifetime warranted" NAPA unit in . So what the
hall
, I still have the original , and it's out in the shop in a box . Let's
see
where it's leaking ... and it turns out the leak is in a place that's easy
to get at to clean and resolder . Cleaned , soldered , and I just pressure
tested it to 25 psi , which is a good bit higher than system pressure .
I love it when something works out this well ! Now I need to pull the
radiator , it started leaking a few weeks ago - and this one is going to
be
harder . Aluminum core with plastic tanks , and the water stain is right
in
the center of the core . I need to see if it's a surface tube or deep
inside
. Either way , there is really only one way to stop the leak , and that's
to
cut/crimp the leaky tube . Shoot a wad of sillycone in there before I
crimp
. If I had more experience and talent I might try to TIG it , but those
tubes are a lot thinner than I can currently manage to weld without
blowing
holes .
Then there's the tick that started a few days ago ... High likelihood
it's
the fuel pump pushrod . Not sure yet if it's the pump failing or the cam
lobe , but it's also gotta be fixed before the snow flies .
--
Snag
Shade Tree Mechanic
and
Metalworking Hack .

Subsequent to my other post.

Try a search for "aluminum radiator leaks+electrolysis"
--
Cheers,

John B.

WOW ! The evidence suggests that I need to do a complete flush of the
system to stop this problem . From the info I got from that search string
I'll be replacing the radiator too ...
I'm wondering if I might need to use an alkaline product to neutralize the
system along with that flush . This is my first experience with this problem
.... and it didn't manifest until I replaced OEM brass components with
aluminum . Makes me wish I still had the original radiator too .
Thanks for the eye-opening education John !
--
Snag

On Thu, 26 Sep 2013 22:49:04 -0500, "Snag" wrote:


"John B." wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 26 Sep 2013 14:41:27 -0500, "Snag" wrote:

I had a leak in my truck ('86 GMC 305 V8) heater core a couple (or 3 or 5
...) of years back and instead of trying to repair it I just bought a
replacement from NAPA - cheap because my son works there (his employee
discount , nothing shady) . Cheap looking aluminum unit , but it lasted a
couple of years . The next one lasted less than 6 months ... and the next
3
or 4 each lasted about a month . All properly installed , system flush the
first couple of times , but antifreeze ain't free .
The last one that failed is still in the heater box , though the hose is
now routed from the engine straight into the radiator because it started
leaking while I was halfway home (halfway between Memphis and Mtn View) .
So
now fall is coming on , winter will be here soon , and I'm not
particularly
inclined to put another "lifetime warranted" NAPA unit in . So what the
hall
, I still have the original , and it's out in the shop in a box . Let's
see
where it's leaking ... and it turns out the leak is in a place that's easy
to get at to clean and resolder . Cleaned , soldered , and I just pressure
tested it to 25 psi , which is a good bit higher than system pressure .
I love it when something works out this well ! Now I need to pull the
radiator , it started leaking a few weeks ago - and this one is going to
be
harder . Aluminum core with plastic tanks , and the water stain is right
in
the center of the core . I need to see if it's a surface tube or deep
inside
. Either way , there is really only one way to stop the leak , and that's
to
cut/crimp the leaky tube . Shoot a wad of sillycone in there before I
crimp
. If I had more experience and talent I might try to TIG it , but those
tubes are a lot thinner than I can currently manage to weld without
blowing
holes .
Then there's the tick that started a few days ago ... High likelihood
it's
the fuel pump pushrod . Not sure yet if it's the pump failing or the cam
lobe , but it's also gotta be fixed before the snow flies .
--
Snag
Shade Tree Mechanic
and
Metalworking Hack .

Subsequent to my other post.

Try a search for "aluminum radiator leaks+electrolysis"
--
Cheers,

John B.

WOW ! The evidence suggests that I need to do a complete flush of the
system to stop this problem . From the info I got from that search string
I'll be replacing the radiator too ...
I'm wondering if I might need to use an alkaline product to neutralize the
system along with that flush . This is my first experience with this problem
... and it didn't manifest until I replaced OEM brass components with
aluminum . Makes me wish I still had the original radiator too .
Thanks for the eye-opening education John !
--
Snag


I wonder whether conventional radiator flush is alkaline or acidic?
--
Cheers,

John B.

On Fri, 27 Sep 2013 18:51:48 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Thu, 26 Sep 2013 22:49:04 -0500, "Snag" wrote:


"John B." wrote in message
. ..
On Thu, 26 Sep 2013 14:41:27 -0500, "Snag" wrote:

I had a leak in my truck ('86 GMC 305 V8) heater core a couple (or 3 or 5
...) of years back and instead of trying to repair it I just bought a
replacement from NAPA - cheap because my son works there (his employee
discount , nothing shady) . Cheap looking aluminum unit , but it lasted a
couple of years . The next one lasted less than 6 months ... and the next
3
or 4 each lasted about a month . All properly installed , system flush the
first couple of times , but antifreeze ain't free .
The last one that failed is still in the heater box , though the hose is
now routed from the engine straight into the radiator because it started
leaking while I was halfway home (halfway between Memphis and Mtn View) .
So
now fall is coming on , winter will be here soon , and I'm not
particularly
inclined to put another "lifetime warranted" NAPA unit in . So what the
hall
, I still have the original , and it's out in the shop in a box . Let's
see
where it's leaking ... and it turns out the leak is in a place that's easy
to get at to clean and resolder . Cleaned , soldered , and I just pressure
tested it to 25 psi , which is a good bit higher than system pressure .
I love it when something works out this well ! Now I need to pull the
radiator , it started leaking a few weeks ago - and this one is going to
be
harder . Aluminum core with plastic tanks , and the water stain is right
in
the center of the core . I need to see if it's a surface tube or deep
inside
. Either way , there is really only one way to stop the leak , and that's
to
cut/crimp the leaky tube . Shoot a wad of sillycone in there before I
crimp
. If I had more experience and talent I might try to TIG it , but those
tubes are a lot thinner than I can currently manage to weld without
blowing
holes .
Then there's the tick that started a few days ago ... High likelihood
it's
the fuel pump pushrod . Not sure yet if it's the pump failing or the cam
lobe , but it's also gotta be fixed before the snow flies .
--
Snag
Shade Tree Mechanic
and
Metalworking Hack .

Subsequent to my other post.

Try a search for "aluminum radiator leaks+electrolysis"
--
Cheers,

John B.

WOW ! The evidence suggests that I need to do a complete flush of the
system to stop this problem . From the info I got from that search string
I'll be replacing the radiator too ...
I'm wondering if I might need to use an alkaline product to neutralize the
system along with that flush . This is my first experience with this problem
... and it didn't manifest until I replaced OEM brass components with
aluminum . Makes me wish I still had the original radiator too .
Thanks for the eye-opening education John !
--
Snag


I wonder whether conventional radiator flush is alkaline or acidic?
Check the msds. Gunk /Solder Seal rad flush is mostly potasium
Hydroxide and Dodecybenzinesulfonic acid - it says to neutralizw
spills with soda ash - so it is definitely an acid.

I used to use a half pound of baking soda to neutralaze afer an acid
flush - and then re-rince with clean water before filling.