I need to cut the tops off of ~5 rusty steel drums to make an outdoor dry
firewood storage array. Got no electricity and I don't want to use a torch.
My rotator cuff is sore even when I'm not using it, so don't want to use a
chisel if it's avoidable.

Know of any method better or cheaper than a Vestil DD-9 Manual Drum
Deheader?

http://www.amazon.com/Vestil-DD-9-St...+Drum+Deheader

"Stumpy" wrote in message
m...
I need to cut the tops off of ~5 rusty steel drums to make an outdoor dry firewood storage array.
Got no electricity and I don't want to use a torch. My rotator cuff is sore even when I'm not using
it, so don't want to use a chisel if it's avoidable.

Know of any method better or cheaper than a Vestil DD-9 Manual Drum Deheader?

Air chisel and a gas powered compressor.
Art

On 9/12/2013 1:23 PM, Stumpy wrote:
I need to cut the tops off of ~5 rusty steel drums to make an outdoor dry
firewood storage array. Got no electricity and I don't want to use a torch.
My rotator cuff is sore even when I'm not using it, so don't want to use a
chisel if it's avoidable.

Know of any method better or cheaper than a Vestil DD-9 Manual Drum
Deheader?
....

Got a buddy w/ cordless Sawzall?

--

I would use a torch. Fill drums with water almost to the top, if you
are concerned with them exploding.

i

On 2013-09-12, Stumpy wrote:
I need to cut the tops off of ~5 rusty steel drums to make an outdoor dry
firewood storage array. Got no electricity and I don't want to use a torch.
My rotator cuff is sore even when I'm not using it, so don't want to use a
chisel if it's avoidable.

Know of any method better or cheaper than a Vestil DD-9 Manual Drum
Deheader?

http://www.amazon.com/Vestil-DD-9-St...+Drum+Deheader

Ignoramus15426 fired this volley in
:


I would use a torch. Fill drums with water almost to the top, if you
are concerned with them exploding.


I'd use an air nibbler or air power shear, and just run the thing off
regulated CO2, if I didn't have a compressor available. I know you don't
have electricity, but you can borrow or rent a gas-powered compressor.


Lloyd

On Thursday, September 12, 2013 2:23:41 PM UTC-4, Stumpy wrote:
I need to cut the tops off of ~5 rusty steel drums to make an outdoor dry

firewood storage array. Got no electricity and I don't want to use a torch.

My rotator cuff is sore even when I'm not using it, so don't want to use a

chisel if it's avoidable.



Know of any method better or cheaper than a Vestil DD-9 Manual Drum

Deheader?



http://www.amazon.com/Vestil-DD-9-St...+Drum+Deheader

How about pretty much the same tool, but for 20 bucks?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Drum-Deheade...em3f289c 39a8

"dpb" wrote in message ...
On 9/12/2013 1:23 PM, Stumpy wrote:
I need to cut the tops off of ~5 rusty steel drums to make an outdoor dry
firewood storage array. Got no electricity and I don't want to use a
torch.
My rotator cuff is sore even when I'm not using it, so don't want to use
a
chisel if it's avoidable.

Know of any method better or cheaper than a Vestil DD-9 Manual Drum
Deheader?
...

Got a buddy w/ cordless Sawzall?

--


I've got a plug in Sawzall and a set of blades. Can haul a generator up
there, but might be happier spending ~$15/bbl for that Vestil DD-9. May
have use for it in the future, may only use it for this one job.

Know of any method better or cheaper than a Vestil DD-9 Manual Drum

Deheader?



http://www.amazon.com/Vestil-DD-9-St...+Drum+Deheader

How about pretty much the same tool, but for 20 bucks?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Drum-Deheade...em3f289c 39a8

Price is right, but I think that is just a bung wrench to unscrew the caps.
Don't see any blade to cut off the whole upper end.

On Thursday, September 12, 2013 4:10:59 PM UTC-4, Stumpy wrote:






Know of any method better or cheaper than a Vestil DD-9 Manual Drum



Deheader?







http://www.amazon.com/Vestil-DD-9-St...+Drum+Deheader



How about pretty much the same tool, but for 20 bucks?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Drum-Deheade...em3f289c 39a8



Price is right, but I think that is just a bung wrench to unscrew the caps.

Don't see any blade to cut off the whole upper end.

I see what you mean. Well, there are more on ebay, or there's this:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...7597_200317597

Price is right, but I think that is just a bung wrench to unscrew the
caps.

Don't see any blade to cut off the whole upper end.

I see what you mean. Well, there are more on ebay, or there's this:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...7597_200317597


There you go, little bit better price. Only $10 shipping.

"Stumpy" wrote in message
m...
I need to cut the tops off of ~5 rusty steel drums to make an outdoor
dry firewood storage array. Got no electricity and I don't want to
use a torch. My rotator cuff is sore even when I'm not using it, so
don't want to use a chisel if it's avoidable.


I made a few temporary firewood drying shelters from 40"x48" pallet
floors and end walls.

The roofs are corrugated galvy sheets, tied down to avoid puncturing
them so they can be reused.

The diagonals that support the ends are $0.51, 4' 2x4s from the Home
Depot cull cart, PT if they have any.

"Stumpy" wrote in message
...



Price is right, but I think that is just a bung wrench to unscrew the
caps.

Don't see any blade to cut off the whole upper end.

I see what you mean. Well, there are more on ebay, or there's this:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...7597_200317597


There you go, little bit better price. Only $10 shipping.


However, note the bad reviews!

Don't see any blade to cut off the whole upper end.

I see what you mean. Well, there are more on ebay, or there's this:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...7597_200317597


There you go, little bit better price. Only $10 shipping.


However, note the bad reviews!

The Northern Tool blade looks pretty much the same as the Vestil one. I'm
inclined to try it. A couple of users got it to work OK(might have been N.
T. employees).

I see what you mean. Well, there are more on ebay, or there's this:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...7597_200317597


There you go, little bit better price. Only $10 shipping.


However, note the bad reviews!

I finally cut open a couple of barrels. Pain in the ass.

The Northern Tool product functioned well, but only was easy to use if you
advanced it ~1/2" on each stroke. On a 55gal drum with 6' circumference
that is ~144 strokes. Loosening the knurled knob to move to the new
position and then retightening before the stroke made this a slow operation.

Reminded me of using a Russian can opener to get into an surplus ammo can.

On Sun, 20 Oct 2013 14:41:27 -0700, "Stumpy"
wrote:


I see what you mean. Well, there are more on ebay, or there's this:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...7597_200317597


There you go, little bit better price. Only $10 shipping.


However, note the bad reviews!

I finally cut open a couple of barrels. Pain in the ass.

The Northern Tool product functioned well, but only was easy to use if you
advanced it ~1/2" on each stroke. On a 55gal drum with 6' circumference
that is ~144 strokes. Loosening the knurled knob to move to the new
position and then retightening before the stroke made this a slow operation.

Reminded me of using a Russian can opener to get into an surplus ammo can.


I use either a torch..or a Milwaukee Sawzall . Once you cut a slot
with a torch or a drill..it goes pretty quickly.

Gunner

--
"Their mommies tell them they're special, Liberals just don't understand
that "special" is a polite euphemism for;
*window licker on the short bus*"

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

On 10/20/2013 4:00 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 20 Oct 2013 14:41:27 -0700, "Stumpy"
wrote:


I see what you mean. Well, there are more on ebay, or there's this:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...7597_200317597


There you go, little bit better price. Only $10 shipping.


However, note the bad reviews!

I finally cut open a couple of barrels. Pain in the ass.

The Northern Tool product functioned well, but only was easy to use if you
advanced it ~1/2" on each stroke. On a 55gal drum with 6' circumference
that is ~144 strokes. Loosening the knurled knob to move to the new
position and then retightening before the stroke made this a slow operation.

Reminded me of using a Russian can opener to get into an surplus ammo can.


I use either a torch..or a Milwaukee Sawzall . Once you cut a slot
with a torch or a drill..it goes pretty quickly.

Gunner

Woosies! You take a 18" pipe wrench and an 8# hammer. You put the
wrench jaw on the inside top of the lid, handle pointing outward. You
hit it a couple of times until it punctures the top. You move over just
enough to keep your cut going. You repeat until the top falls out.

Do I have to tell you everything?

That's the way we used to do it in the oilfield.

If you were a real neat freak, you would lay the barrel down, and pound
the ragged edge flat. But, if a guy was real good at it, that would not
be necessary, as the finished edge would be machine smooth. ;-)

Steve

However, note the bad reviews!

I finally cut open a couple of barrels. Pain in the ass.

The Northern Tool product functioned well, but only was easy to use if
you
advanced it ~1/2" on each stroke. On a 55gal drum with 6' circumference
that is ~144 strokes. Loosening the knurled knob to move to the new
position and then retightening before the stroke made this a slow
operation.

Reminded me of using a Russian can opener to get into an surplus ammo
can.


I use either a torch..or a Milwaukee Sawzall . Once you cut a slot
with a torch or a drill..it goes pretty quickly.

Gunner

Woosies! You take a 18" pipe wrench and an 8# hammer. You put the wrench
jaw on the inside top of the lid, handle pointing outward. You hit it a
couple of times until it punctures the top. You move over just enough to
keep your cut going. You repeat until the top falls out.

Do I have to tell you everything?

That's the way we used to do it in the oilfield.

If you were a real neat freak, you would lay the barrel down, and pound
the ragged edge flat. But, if a guy was real good at it, that would not
be necessary, as the finished edge would be machine smooth. ;-)

Steve


Hah!

I was out shooting 7.62x54r in a Mosin-Nagant with a steel buttplate for the
first time this weekend - may never swing a hammer again.

Stumpy wrote:
However, note the bad reviews!

I finally cut open a couple of barrels. Pain in the ass.

The Northern Tool product functioned well, but only was easy to
use if you
advanced it ~1/2" on each stroke. On a 55gal drum with 6'
circumference that is ~144 strokes. Loosening the knurled knob to
move to the new position and then retightening before the stroke
made this a slow operation.

Reminded me of using a Russian can opener to get into an surplus
ammo can.


I use either a torch..or a Milwaukee Sawzall . Once you cut a slot
with a torch or a drill..it goes pretty quickly.

Gunner

Woosies! You take a 18" pipe wrench and an 8# hammer. You put the
wrench jaw on the inside top of the lid, handle pointing outward. You hit
it a couple of times until it punctures the top. You move
over just enough to keep your cut going. You repeat until the top
falls out. Do I have to tell you everything?

That's the way we used to do it in the oilfield.

If you were a real neat freak, you would lay the barrel down, and
pound the ragged edge flat. But, if a guy was real good at it, that
would not be necessary, as the finished edge would be machine
smooth. ;-) Steve


Hah!

I was out shooting 7.62x54r in a Mosin-Nagant with a steel buttplate
for the first time this weekend - may never swing a hammer again.

Dunno if they're even still on the market , but years ago it was suggested
to stick a kotex in your jacket as padding . I was sighting in my
muzzleloader a couple of weeks ago and I'm as skinny as a rail - it was
beating my shoulder up pretty badly . So I folded up a sweatshirt and draped
it over my shoulder . Worked great .
On the drum beheading , I used an air hammer with the chisel blade like
they use in body shops . Noisy as it gets , but minimal effort and quick too
..
--
Snag

I use either a torch..or a Milwaukee Sawzall . Once you cut a slot
with a torch or a drill..it goes pretty quickly.

Gunner

Woosies! You take a 18" pipe wrench and an 8# hammer. You put the
wrench jaw on the inside top of the lid, handle pointing outward. You
hit it a couple of times until it punctures the top. You move
over just enough to keep your cut going. You repeat until the top
falls out. Do I have to tell you everything?

That's the way we used to do it in the oilfield.

If you were a real neat freak, you would lay the barrel down, and
pound the ragged edge flat. But, if a guy was real good at it, that
would not be necessary, as the finished edge would be machine
smooth. ;-) Steve


Hah!

I was out shooting 7.62x54r in a Mosin-Nagant with a steel buttplate
for the first time this weekend - may never swing a hammer again.

Dunno if they're even still on the market , but years ago it was
suggested to stick a kotex in your jacket as padding . I was sighting in
my muzzleloader a couple of weeks ago and I'm as skinny as a rail - it was
beating my shoulder up pretty badly . So I folded up a sweatshirt and
draped it over my shoulder . Worked great .
On the drum beheading , I used an air hammer with the chisel blade like
they use in body shops . Noisy as it gets , but minimal effort and quick
too .
--
Snag


I can take a 12 gauge shooting 1oz slugs all day as long as I'm standing up.
The Mosin-Nagant I can only hit a target while prone. Must be holding it
wrong because it hurt. Wearing just a T-shirt it broke the skin over my
collarbone.

I'm sewing the front part of a life preserver onto a vest before I go out
again.


Front right part of this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vtg-USCG-U-S...em27cedc 3c8e

Or this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-STEA...em2eca61 fb8b


Grafted onto a vest sort of like this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...TVPDKIKX 0DER

On Mon, 21 Oct 2013 11:08:30 -0700, SteveB
wrote:

On 10/20/2013 4:00 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 20 Oct 2013 14:41:27 -0700, "Stumpy"
wrote:


I see what you mean. Well, there are more on ebay, or there's this:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...7597_200317597


There you go, little bit better price. Only $10 shipping.


However, note the bad reviews!

I finally cut open a couple of barrels. Pain in the ass.

The Northern Tool product functioned well, but only was easy to use if you
advanced it ~1/2" on each stroke. On a 55gal drum with 6' circumference
that is ~144 strokes. Loosening the knurled knob to move to the new
position and then retightening before the stroke made this a slow operation.

Reminded me of using a Russian can opener to get into an surplus ammo can.


I use either a torch..or a Milwaukee Sawzall . Once you cut a slot
with a torch or a drill..it goes pretty quickly.

Gunner

Woosies! You take a 18" pipe wrench and an 8# hammer. You put the
wrench jaw on the inside top of the lid, handle pointing outward. You
hit it a couple of times until it punctures the top. You move over just
enough to keep your cut going. You repeat until the top falls out.

Do I have to tell you everything?

That's the way we used to do it in the oilfield.

If you were a real neat freak, you would lay the barrel down, and pound
the ragged edge flat. But, if a guy was real good at it, that would not
be necessary, as the finished edge would be machine smooth. ;-)

Steve

Ayup..that works on some barrels. Unfortunately far too many of them
are coming made of something that isnt as thick a steel nor as tough
as the "old" drums. I tried various oil field methods on some coolant
drums I snagged down in LA a couple months ago..and the resultant
hideous mess made me dig out the torch and the Sawzall.

Gunner

--
"Their mommies tell them they're special, Liberals just don't understand
that "special" is a polite euphemism for;
*window licker on the short bus*"

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

On Tue, 22 Oct 2013 08:36:41 -0500, "Snag" wrote:

Stumpy wrote:
However, note the bad reviews!

I finally cut open a couple of barrels. Pain in the ass.

The Northern Tool product functioned well, but only was easy to
use if you
advanced it ~1/2" on each stroke. On a 55gal drum with 6'
circumference that is ~144 strokes. Loosening the knurled knob to
move to the new position and then retightening before the stroke
made this a slow operation.

Reminded me of using a Russian can opener to get into an surplus
ammo can.


I use either a torch..or a Milwaukee Sawzall . Once you cut a slot
with a torch or a drill..it goes pretty quickly.

Gunner

Woosies! You take a 18" pipe wrench and an 8# hammer. You put the
wrench jaw on the inside top of the lid, handle pointing outward. You hit
it a couple of times until it punctures the top. You move
over just enough to keep your cut going. You repeat until the top
falls out. Do I have to tell you everything?

That's the way we used to do it in the oilfield.

If you were a real neat freak, you would lay the barrel down, and
pound the ragged edge flat. But, if a guy was real good at it, that
would not be necessary, as the finished edge would be machine
smooth. ;-) Steve


Hah!

I was out shooting 7.62x54r in a Mosin-Nagant with a steel buttplate
for the first time this weekend - may never swing a hammer again.

Dunno if they're even still on the market , but years ago it was suggested
to stick a kotex in your jacket as padding . I was sighting in my
muzzleloader a couple of weeks ago and I'm as skinny as a rail - it was
beating my shoulder up pretty badly . So I folded up a sweatshirt and draped
it over my shoulder . Worked great .
On the drum beheading , I used an air hammer with the chisel blade like
they use in body shops . Noisy as it gets , but minimal effort and quick too
.
I used a forked chisel with an air hammer to dehead several drums. The
tool worked great. And it should have since that's what it was made
for. But it leaves a very sharp edge that points down toward the
bottom of the barrell. So it's not visible and goes unnoticed until
you grab the barrell to move it and end up cutting the pads on your
fingers. So now I need to figure out a way to remove the nearly razor
sharp edge. Since the edge lays almost flat against the inside of the
barrell it's hard to get at to dull. I may end up prying the edge away
from the inside of the barrell and then sanding it away with sanding
discs. I used to fill the barrells with water and use the plasma
cutter and I'm going back to that method.
Eric

On Tue, 22 Oct 2013 08:36:41 -0500, "Snag" wrote:

Stumpy wrote:
However, note the bad reviews!

I finally cut open a couple of barrels. Pain in the ass.

The Northern Tool product functioned well, but only was easy to
use if you
advanced it ~1/2" on each stroke. On a 55gal drum with 6'
circumference that is ~144 strokes. Loosening the knurled knob to
move to the new position and then retightening before the stroke
made this a slow operation.

Reminded me of using a Russian can opener to get into an surplus
ammo can.


I use either a torch..or a Milwaukee Sawzall . Once you cut a slot
with a torch or a drill..it goes pretty quickly.

Gunner

Woosies! You take a 18" pipe wrench and an 8# hammer. You put the
wrench jaw on the inside top of the lid, handle pointing outward. You hit
it a couple of times until it punctures the top. You move
over just enough to keep your cut going. You repeat until the top
falls out. Do I have to tell you everything?

That's the way we used to do it in the oilfield.

If you were a real neat freak, you would lay the barrel down, and
pound the ragged edge flat. But, if a guy was real good at it, that
would not be necessary, as the finished edge would be machine
smooth. ;-) Steve


Hah!

I was out shooting 7.62x54r in a Mosin-Nagant with a steel buttplate
for the first time this weekend - may never swing a hammer again.

Dunno if they're even still on the market , but years ago it was suggested
to stick a kotex in your jacket as padding . I was sighting in my
muzzleloader a couple of weeks ago and I'm as skinny as a rail - it was
beating my shoulder up pretty badly . So I folded up a sweatshirt and draped
it over my shoulder . Worked great .
On the drum beheading , I used an air hammer with the chisel blade like
they use in body shops . Noisy as it gets , but minimal effort and quick too
.
7' of det cord works well.
---

Gerry :-)}
London,Canada