Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default Metalworking, Shop, AR Progress Report

I went to my shop tonight at close to 5PM, I wired for an AC inverter drive
for single to 3 phase, I put a single phase plug on the drive and a 3 phase
twist lock on the mill, I figure that way I can use my drive with my lathe
or mills. On the mill tonight I found out I can start the drive with the
mill off, turning the mill on and off while the drive is running 60hz
doesn't fault out the drive, I was surprised. The drive I'm currently using
is an Allen Bradley 160 3HP (2.2KW) drive, got it on eBay years ago for $105
if I remember correctly.

After I got my wiring switched from the idler motor cobbled up rotary
converter and got it running from the drive, I machined my AR-15 lower
trigger group, wasn't the best time I've had machining, my air compressor
didn't work and it was hard to mill without regrinding my chips, the pocket
is 1.249" deep (+/- .010). Had lots of little difficulties, I spent a lot
of time on setting up, indicating the vise, head, and part, I checked and
rechecked things before final dimension. I didn't get the lower fully
assembled but the hammer and trigger is in place, I could test fire tonight
but it's late and the neighbors might not appreciate it. Everything appears
to work great, pull the trigger releases the hammer, hold the trigger and
disconnector holds the hammer, release the trigger and disconnector releases
hammer and trigger catches it. Selector switch blocks pulling the trigger.

I used one of those mill/drills spotter drills that was recommended on the
group, very nice. The reamers left a good finish on the holes. In my
tooling I bought one of those co-axial indicators, never used one before,
it's nice to be able to see the dial. Enco had the Fowler co-axial
indicators on sale, then they had a code for free shipping plus a code for
discount, so I bought the Fowler indicator for close to the price of the
cheapie import. I found out my Enco R-8 1/4" collet has considerable
runout, milled a .282 slot, took an extra setup to finish the trigger (5/16"
slot).

After I get set up to anodize, I'll strip it, clean it up, and try
anodizing!

RogerN


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Default Metalworking, Shop, AR Progress Report

On Apr 12, 10:15*pm, "RogerN" wrote:
I went to my shop tonight at close to 5PM, *I wired for an AC inverter drive
for single to 3 phase, I put a single phase plug on the drive and a 3 phase
twist lock on the mill, I figure that way I can use my drive with my lathe
or mills. *On the mill tonight I found out I can start the drive with the
mill off, turning the mill on and off while the drive is running 60hz
doesn't fault out the drive, I was surprised. *The drive I'm currently using
is an Allen Bradley 160 3HP (2.2KW) drive, got it on eBay years ago for $105
if I remember correctly.

After I got my wiring switched from the idler motor cobbled up rotary
converter and got it running from the drive, I machined my AR-15 lower
trigger group, wasn't the best time I've had machining, my air compressor
didn't work and it was hard to mill without regrinding my chips, the pocket
is 1.249" deep (+/- .010). *Had lots of little difficulties, I spent a lot
of time on setting up, indicating the vise, head, and part, I checked and
rechecked things before final dimension. *I didn't get the lower fully
assembled but the hammer and trigger is in place, I could test fire tonight
but it's late and the neighbors might not appreciate it. *Everything appears
to work great, pull the trigger releases the hammer, hold the trigger and
disconnector holds the hammer, release the trigger and disconnector releases
hammer and trigger catches it. *Selector switch blocks pulling the trigger.

I used one of those mill/drills spotter drills that was recommended on the
group, very nice. *The reamers left a good finish on the holes. *In my
tooling I bought one of those co-axial indicators, never used one before,
it's nice to be able to see the dial. *Enco had the Fowler co-axial
indicators on sale, then they had a code for free shipping plus a code for
discount, so I bought the Fowler indicator for close to the price of the
cheapie import. *I found out my Enco R-8 1/4" collet has considerable
runout, milled a .282 slot, took an extra setup to finish the trigger (5/16"
slot).

After I get set up to anodize, I'll strip it, clean it up, and try
anodizing!

RogerN


The co-axial indicator to buy is made in the USA by Blake.

http://www.blakemanufacturing.com/index.html
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RogerN wrote:

I went to my shop tonight at close to 5PM, I wired for an AC inverter drive
for single to 3 phase, I put a single phase plug on the drive and a 3 phase
twist lock on the mill, I figure that way I can use my drive with my lathe
or mills. On the mill tonight I found out I can start the drive with the
mill off, turning the mill on and off while the drive is running 60hz
doesn't fault out the drive, I was surprised. The drive I'm currently using
is an Allen Bradley 160 3HP (2.2KW) drive, got it on eBay years ago for $105
if I remember correctly.

After I got my wiring switched from the idler motor cobbled up rotary
converter and got it running from the drive, I machined my AR-15 lower
trigger group, wasn't the best time I've had machining, my air compressor
didn't work and it was hard to mill without regrinding my chips, the pocket
is 1.249" deep (+/- .010). Had lots of little difficulties, I spent a lot
of time on setting up, indicating the vise, head, and part, I checked and
rechecked things before final dimension. I didn't get the lower fully
assembled but the hammer and trigger is in place, I could test fire tonight
but it's late and the neighbors might not appreciate it. Everything appears
to work great, pull the trigger releases the hammer, hold the trigger and
disconnector holds the hammer, release the trigger and disconnector releases
hammer and trigger catches it. Selector switch blocks pulling the trigger.

I used one of those mill/drills spotter drills that was recommended on the
group, very nice. The reamers left a good finish on the holes. In my
tooling I bought one of those co-axial indicators, never used one before,
it's nice to be able to see the dial. Enco had the Fowler co-axial
indicators on sale, then they had a code for free shipping plus a code for
discount, so I bought the Fowler indicator for close to the price of the
cheapie import. I found out my Enco R-8 1/4" collet has considerable
runout, milled a .282 slot, took an extra setup to finish the trigger (5/16"
slot).

After I get set up to anodize, I'll strip it, clean it up, and try
anodizing!

RogerN


If you can, bead blasting before anodizing really gives it a nice
finish.
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Default Metalworking, Shop, AR Progress Report

On Sat, 13 Apr 2013 00:15:03 -0500, "RogerN"
wrote:

Enco had the Fowler co-axial
indicators on sale, then they had a code for free shipping plus a code for
discount, so I bought the Fowler indicator for close to the price of the
cheapie import.


Fowler is a cheapie import. Used to be you could trust them to do a
good job of keeping an eye on the quality of the stuff they import,
and they'd support what they sold, but my most recent experience with
a digital caliper was disappointing.

--
Ned Simmons
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Default Metalworking, Shop, AR Progress Report

On Sat, 13 Apr 2013 07:55:49 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


RogerN wrote:

I went to my shop tonight at close to 5PM, I wired for an AC inverter drive
for single to 3 phase, I put a single phase plug on the drive and a 3 phase
twist lock on the mill, I figure that way I can use my drive with my lathe
or mills. On the mill tonight I found out I can start the drive with the
mill off, turning the mill on and off while the drive is running 60hz
doesn't fault out the drive, I was surprised. The drive I'm currently using
is an Allen Bradley 160 3HP (2.2KW) drive, got it on eBay years ago for $105
if I remember correctly.

After I got my wiring switched from the idler motor cobbled up rotary
converter and got it running from the drive, I machined my AR-15 lower
trigger group, wasn't the best time I've had machining, my air compressor
didn't work and it was hard to mill without regrinding my chips, the pocket
is 1.249" deep (+/- .010). Had lots of little difficulties, I spent a lot
of time on setting up, indicating the vise, head, and part, I checked and
rechecked things before final dimension. I didn't get the lower fully
assembled but the hammer and trigger is in place, I could test fire tonight
but it's late and the neighbors might not appreciate it. Everything appears
to work great, pull the trigger releases the hammer, hold the trigger and
disconnector holds the hammer, release the trigger and disconnector releases
hammer and trigger catches it. Selector switch blocks pulling the trigger.

I used one of those mill/drills spotter drills that was recommended on the
group, very nice. The reamers left a good finish on the holes. In my
tooling I bought one of those co-axial indicators, never used one before,
it's nice to be able to see the dial. Enco had the Fowler co-axial
indicators on sale, then they had a code for free shipping plus a code for
discount, so I bought the Fowler indicator for close to the price of the
cheapie import. I found out my Enco R-8 1/4" collet has considerable
runout, milled a .282 slot, took an extra setup to finish the trigger (5/16"
slot).

After I get set up to anodize, I'll strip it, clean it up, and try
anodizing!

RogerN


If you can, bead blasting before anodizing really gives it a nice
finish.


Glass beads.


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