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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Light surface rust ...
I'm making a couple of gate frames from 1X3 11ga , and it's developed a but
of light surface rust - you can wipe it mostly off with your bare hand . Do I need to wipe it down with maybe some weak acid solution , or will a wipe with rag/degreaser lacquer thinner most likely and use of an etching primer do ? I'll be shooting the primer and maybe brushing 2 coats of industrial enamel . No matter what the finish , it's gonna be a problem getting it to dry right now ... -- Snag Learning keeps you young ! |
#2
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Light surface rust ...
On Jan 16, 11:34*am, "Snag" wrote:
I'm making a couple of gate frames from 1X3 11ga , and it's developed a but of light surface rust - you can wipe it mostly off with your bare hand . Do I need to wipe it down with maybe some weak acid solution , or will a wipe with rag/degreaser lacquer thinner most likely and use of an etching primer do ? I'll be shooting the primer and maybe brushing 2 coats of industrial enamel . * No matter what the finish , it's gonna be a problem getting it to dry right now ... -- Snag Learning keeps you young ! Jasco used to have a Prep and Prime solution that was mainly phosphoric acid, removed and/or converted the rust. Used it a lot on stripped autobody parts before priming, those started rusting immediately after removing the paint.. Basically a wipe-on/spray-on type of thing. If it's cold, it'll take a LOT longer to react to rust, best to find a nice warm garage or basement to do it in. Stan |
#3
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Light surface rust ...
On Wed, 16 Jan 2013 10:56:30 -0800, Stanley Schaefer wrote:
On Jan 16, 11:34Â*am, "Snag" wrote: I'm making a couple of gate frames from 1X3 11ga , and it's developed a but of light surface rust - you can wipe it mostly off with your bare hand . Do I need to wipe it down with maybe some weak acid solution , or will a wipe with rag/degreaser lacquer thinner most likely and use of an etching primer do ? I'll be shooting the primer and maybe brushing 2 coats of industrial enamel . Â* No matter what the finish , it's gonna be a problem getting it to Â* dry right now ... -- Snag Learning keeps you young ! Jasco used to have a Prep and Prime solution that was mainly phosphoric acid, removed and/or converted the rust. Used it a lot on stripped autobody parts before priming, those started rusting immediately after removing the paint.. Basically a wipe-on/spray-on type of thing. If it's cold, it'll take a LOT longer to react to rust, best to find a nice warm garage or basement to do it in. I can't remember the name but you can get that stuff from Home Depot. Look carefully at what you're buying: you want to get the stuff whose directions say to squirt it on then scrub with steel wool. (Damn but this brings back memories. One of my jobs at my dad's shop was to take the freshly-straightened sheet metal and put the first coat of primer on it, after scrubbing it down with that stuff. It has a distinctive smell, not unpleasant except that it smells like work). -- My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook. My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook. Why am I not happy that they have found common ground? Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software http://www.wescottdesign.com |
#4
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Light surface rust ...
Tim Wescott fired this volley in
: I can't remember the name Ospho. Lloyd |
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