So an on topic post!

I had a bunch of run out issues with my Hyundai HIT-18 lathe. Bought
a brand new Kitagawa chuck and all is well. SO....what do I do with
the old one? save it for rough "meatball" jobs?, scrap it?, sell it
on eBay for $100.00, Looks to have been greased once or twice in
its 15 year life.

Holds good, just no repeatability. If you are using oversize stock
and turning all diameters all is good. Just problems if you are
trying to cut concentric with the OD of your stock.

Remove 333 to reply.
Randy

Sell it on ebay, for sure.


On 2013-01-09, Randy333 wrote:
So an on topic post!

I had a bunch of run out issues with my Hyundai HIT-18 lathe. Bought
a brand new Kitagawa chuck and all is well. SO....what do I do with
the old one? save it for rough "meatball" jobs?, scrap it?, sell it
on eBay for $100.00, Looks to have been greased once or twice in
its 15 year life.

Holds good, just no repeatability. If you are using oversize stock
and turning all diameters all is good. Just problems if you are
trying to cut concentric with the OD of your stock.

Remove 333 to reply.
Randy

On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 09:27:55 -0500, Randy333
wrote:

So an on topic post!

I had a bunch of run out issues with my Hyundai HIT-18 lathe. Bought
a brand new Kitagawa chuck and all is well. SO....what do I do with
the old one? save it for rough "meatball" jobs?, scrap it?, sell it
on eBay for $100.00, Looks to have been greased once or twice in
its 15 year life.

Holds good, just no repeatability. If you are using oversize stock
and turning all diameters all is good. Just problems if you are
trying to cut concentric with the OD of your stock.

Remove 333 to reply.
Randy

Where were the runout issues? Worn out jaws? Worn out spiral? Or
have you checked?

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

Look at my previous post. I have 3 6" chucks with TIR .04. Two came with the late. One I made my self when I was parting off a piece of 3" aluminum rod and the rod pulled out and crashed the lathe.

I would keep your bad chuck for those challenging operations where one doesn’t want to sacrifice the good chuck

Gunner: do you know how to take the chucks apart? I might be able to make a good chuck out of thee bad chucks.

On 2013-01-09, Randy333 wrote:
So an on topic post!

I had a bunch of run out issues with my Hyundai HIT-18 lathe. Bought
a brand new Kitagawa chuck and all is well. SO....what do I do with
the old one? save it for rough "meatball" jobs?, scrap it?, sell it
on eBay for $100.00, Looks to have been greased once or twice in
its 15 year life.

Holds good, just no repeatability. If you are using oversize stock
and turning all diameters all is good. Just problems if you are
trying to cut concentric with the OD of your stock.

Try taking it apart and adding a shim wrapped around the stud
which centers the scroll plate to minimize its ability to shift.

Also -- do you get this bad a variation even if you always use
the same socket for the chuck key? Typically, one of the three is
marked with a '0' or some similar marking. (And some even have only the
one socket.)

If you can get the runout rather repeatable with the shim stock
(which reduces how much the scroll shifts around when being tightened),
then it would be worth while to use a toolpost grinder to face the jaws
(while loaded) for better centering. The loading can be with a special
fixture, or by putting three equal width spacers between the angled
faces of the jaws while tightening the chuck. (You can't just set the
jaws where you want and grind way, because they need the pre-loading to
be repeatably on center.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 2013-01-09, d32 wrote:

[ ... ]

Gunner: do you know how to take the chucks apart? I might be able to
make a good chuck out of thee bad chucks.

I'm not Gunner, but for a standard 3-jaw chuck, assuming a
backplate instead of one made to thread directly onto the spindle with
the base casting, you:

1) Unbolt and remove the backplate. (Mark it so you can reinstall
it in the same orientation later.)

2) Look for three screws securing a flat steel plate in the bottom
of the cavity thus revealed, and remove those (idealy marking so
you can put it back in in the same orientation.

3) Once that is off, you will probably see the inside end of the
square key hole parts which will include a bevel gear on the
inside end. These engage a larger bevel gear on the back side
of the scroll plate. You will have to examine them to see just
how they are secured. Perhaps with projections on the plate you
removed, or perhaps with other things which need to be removed.

4) Once these are out, you can pull the scroll plate and clean it
with a good solvent and a brass wire brush, and clean the teeth
on the back of the chuck jaws. Clean everything in the back of
the chuck too.

5) Trial fit the scroll plate back in the chuck, and check with a
feeler gauge to see how much play there is between the center of
the plate and the projection in the center of the chuck. Get
some shim stock half that thickness, cut it to a width matching
the thickness of the scroll plate in the center, and wrap it
around the center projection of the chuck. put the scroll plate
back, and see whether the plate can turn easily on it. Then put
an appropriate oil or grease on the scroll plate, the key gears,
and all, and reassemble.

Note that the one which was crashed with the parting operation
might have the jaws or the ways in which they run distorted.

BTW -- when parting off something longer than its diameter, or
farther from the chuck than its diameter, mount a steady rest on the
other side of the carriage and support it with that, so it is less
likely to catch and damage the chuck. (Don't use a live center in the
tailstock, as it will pinch the parting tool when you get close to
breaking through -- though I have done this, and relaxed it as I got
down to about 1/4" diameter left. Relax it just enough so the center is
no longer pushing on the workpiece, but keep it in the center hole to
keep the end from whipping.

BTW If the chucks you have are not all the same brand, there is
little chance that the parts will interchange, and the jaws are
usually serial numbered to match the chuck, because they are
fitted to the chuck at the factory. (At least in good chucks. :-)

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Wed, 9 Jan 2013 14:14:26 -0800 (PST), d32
wrote:

Look at my previous post. I have 3 6" chucks with TIR .04. Two came with the late. One I made my self when I was parting off a piece of 3" aluminum rod and the rod pulled out and crashed the lathe.

I would keep your bad chuck for those challenging operations where one doesn’t want to sacrifice the good chuck

Gunner: do you know how to take the chucks apart? I might be able to make a good chuck out of thee bad chucks.


Most of them come apart from the spindle side. Not all..but most

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2013-01-09, d32 wrote:

[ ... ]

Gunner: do you know how to take the chucks apart? I might be able to
make a good chuck out of thee bad chucks.

I'm not Gunner, but for a standard 3-jaw chuck, assuming a
backplate instead of one made to thread directly onto the spindle with
the base casting, you:

Is this an ordinary manual chuck? All the Kitagawa chucks I've run
across were big $ hydraulic chucks on CNC lathes.

On Thu, 10 Jan 2013 10:20:56 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:


"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2013-01-09, d32 wrote:

[ ... ]

Gunner: do you know how to take the chucks apart? I might be able to
make a good chuck out of thee bad chucks.

I'm not Gunner, but for a standard 3-jaw chuck, assuming a
backplate instead of one made to thread directly onto the spindle with
the base casting, you:

Is this an ordinary manual chuck? All the Kitagawa chucks I've run
across were big $ hydraulic chucks on CNC lathes.


10" CNC hydraulically actuated chuck. No scroll, it has wedges. It
looks to me like the body is worn along with the master jaws. I got
a chuck for less than I've seen replacemnt jaws sell for. IIRC it was
just over $1300 I paid.

Remove 333 to reply.
Randy

Randy333 wrote:

On Thu, 10 Jan 2013 10:20:56 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:


"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2013-01-09, d32 wrote:

[ ... ]

Gunner: do you know how to take the chucks apart? I might be able to
make a good chuck out of thee bad chucks.

I'm not Gunner, but for a standard 3-jaw chuck, assuming a
backplate instead of one made to thread directly onto the spindle with
the base casting, you:

Is this an ordinary manual chuck? All the Kitagawa chucks I've run
across were big $ hydraulic chucks on CNC lathes.

10" CNC hydraulically actuated chuck. No scroll, it has wedges. It

That's what I thought.

looks to me like the body is worn along with the master jaws. I got
a chuck for less than I've seen replacemnt jaws sell for. IIRC it was
just over $1300 I paid.

Good deal, the ones I've seen were all big bucks.