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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
... "Existential Angst" wrote Be prepared to move the carriage in X bec of tool drift -- I've never parted anything that didn't wind up convex or concave, unless it's very small diameter, or tubing. Whenever I have to loosen the toolpost or compound I reset it square with the parting tool holder pressed against the end of the spindle. Oh yeah, I knew I was forgetting something. Which is proly why all my **** comes out convex/concave..... lol -- EA |
#2
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On Jan 4, 5:20*pm, "Existential Angst" wrote:
"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message ... "Existential Angst" wrote Be prepared to move the carriage in X bec of tool drift -- I've never parted anything that didn't wind up convex or concave, unless it's very small diameter, or tubing. Whenever I have to loosen the toolpost or compound I reset it square with the parting tool holder pressed against the end of the spindle. Oh yeah, I knew I was forgetting something. Which is proly why all my **** comes out convex/concave..... * lol -- EA Bull****. As soon as it does you're smart enough now to know what the problem is and fix it. |
#3
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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"Existential Angst" wrote in message
... "Jim Wilkins" wrote in message ... "Existential Angst" wrote Be prepared to move the carriage in X bec of tool drift -- I've never parted anything that didn't wind up convex or concave, unless it's very small diameter, or tubing. Whenever I have to loosen the toolpost or compound I reset it square with the parting tool holder pressed against the end of the spindle. Oh yeah, I knew I was forgetting something. Which is proly why all my **** comes out convex/concave..... lol -- EA I should add that my parting tool holder is hardened Chromoly, precision-ground to aerospace tolerances by elves in Switzerland. Very large, well-armed elves. If yours came from a Chicom prison factory the blade may not be so precisely parallel to the end of the holder. |
#4
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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![]() "Existential Angst" wrote in message ... "Jim Wilkins" wrote in message ... "Existential Angst" wrote Be prepared to move the carriage in X bec of tool drift -- I've never parted anything that didn't wind up convex or concave, unless it's very small diameter, or tubing. Whenever I have to loosen the toolpost or compound I reset it square with the parting tool holder pressed against the end of the spindle. Indicate it parallel to the axis travel, unless you are already certain that the spindle is accurately trammed to the cross slide. Oh yeah, I knew I was forgetting something. Which is proly why all my **** comes out convex/concave..... lol -- EA |
#5
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"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in message
news:3fedne8Db41RB3rNnZ2dnUVZ_o6dnZ2d@scnresearch. com... "Existential Angst" wrote in message ... "Jim Wilkins" wrote in message Whenever I have to loosen the toolpost or compound I reset it square with the parting tool holder pressed against the end of the spindle. Indicate it parallel to the axis travel, unless you are already certain that the spindle is accurately trammed to the cross slide. If the cross slide axis isn't square to the spindle the cut will still be concave or convex. My lathe is good old American iron and suffers from wear and student abuse rather than poor manufacturing. I bevel the end of the cutoff bit -very- slightly, as little as possible by hand grinding really, to leave the teat on the work, the opposite of conventional advice. Then if the bevel deflects the cut the work has extra metal I can remove rather than being spoiled, and the concave stock end is easily faced square before making the next piece, and doesn't have a protrusion that deflects the center drill. jsw |
#6
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All
There are some great ideas here. Thanks! I like the idea of grinding the jaws square. I am looking at making a tool post mount for my die grinder. Bearing seem to be pretty good and it should work but I will have to make sure the jaws are indexed or bad things will happen. The other idea I like is to turn down the centering shoulder on the mounting plate then re set center, I am a bit worried the chuck will move as the only thing holding it is friction. Thanks all |
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