Yesterday, I noticed that a nose-pad arm had cracked
and fallen off my metal framed glasses. I've been DAGs
for the last few hours looking for a place to buy nose-pad
arms and nose pads with metal inserts.

I've uncovered an industrial supplier that will happily sell
me these parts in 1000 - set lots, but 5 sets would be a
lifetime supply.

Now, I *would* have my local repair place fix these frames *again*
but I honestly think my soft-soldering skills will result in a
longer lasting repair, much cheaper.

So, which supplier has thrilled you with excellent quality,
lightning - fast delivery and stunningly low price?

Thanks

--Winston

I've not bought replacement parts, since Zenni Optical is so inexpensive.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Winston" wrote in message
...
Yesterday, I noticed that a nose-pad arm had cracked
and fallen off my metal framed glasses. I've been DAGs
for the last few hours looking for a place to buy nose-pad
arms and nose pads with metal inserts.

I've uncovered an industrial supplier that will happily sell
me these parts in 1000 - set lots, but 5 sets would be a
lifetime supply.

Now, I *would* have my local repair place fix these frames *again*
but I honestly think my soft-soldering skills will result in a
longer lasting repair, much cheaper.

So, which supplier has thrilled you with excellent quality,
lightning - fast delivery and stunningly low price?

Thanks

--Winston

On Saturday, July 14, 2012 7:17:47 PM UTC-10, Winston wrote:
Yesterday, I noticed that a nose-pad arm had cracked
and fallen off my metal framed glasses. I've been DAGs
for the last few hours looking for a place to buy nose-pad
arms and nose pads with metal inserts.

I've uncovered an industrial supplier that will happily sell
me these parts in 1000 - set lots, but 5 sets would be a
lifetime supply.

Now, I *would* have my local repair place fix these frames *again*
but I honestly think my soft-soldering skills will result in a
longer lasting repair, much cheaper.

So, which supplier has thrilled you with excellent quality,
lightning - fast delivery and stunningly low price?

Thanks

--Winston

I built one up out of hot glue.
Karl

Winston wrote:
Yesterday, I noticed that a nose-pad arm had cracked
and fallen off my metal framed glasses. I've been DAGs
for the last few hours looking for a place to buy nose-pad
arms and nose pads with metal inserts.

I've uncovered an industrial supplier that will happily sell
me these parts in 1000 - set lots, but 5 sets would be a
lifetime supply.

Now, I *would* have my local repair place fix these frames *again*
but I honestly think my soft-soldering skills will result in a
longer lasting repair, much cheaper.

So, which supplier has thrilled you with excellent quality,
lightning - fast delivery and stunningly low price?

Thanks

--Winston

My jeweler welded a broken one back together for me , can't even tell it's
been repaired .
--
Snag
Learning keeps
you young !

On Sun, 15 Jul 2012 07:14:12 -0500, Snag wrote:

Winston wrote:

(Parts vendor request: wire frame glasses nose-pad arms.)

My jeweler welded a broken one back together for me , can't even tell
it's
been repaired .

Same here.

Last time these glasses broke, I took them to a local
'glasses repair' house. 45 dollarettes later,
they attached a new nose pad arm with the most delicate
braze joint you've ever seen.
The braze held, but the arm was apparently not sufficiently
annealed because it snapped off right at the joint just a
couple months later.

Guess I'll have to cruise the local thrift shops for
wireframe glasses to salvage for parts.

--Winston --Or, I could stop bashing my head against the wall...

On Sun, 15 Jul 2012 05:17:47 +0000, Winston wrote:

Yesterday, I noticed that a nose-pad arm had cracked
and fallen off my metal framed glasses. I've been DAGs
for the last few hours looking for a place to buy nose-pad
arms and nose pads with metal inserts.

I've uncovered an industrial supplier that will happily sell
me these parts in 1000 - set lots, but 5 sets would be a
lifetime supply.

Now, I *would* have my local repair place fix these frames
*again* but I honestly think my soft-soldering skills will
result in a longer lasting repair, much cheaper.

So, which supplier has thrilled you with excellent quality,
lightning - fast delivery and stunningly low price?

Does your local repair place carry any parts like that? I
haven't recently looked for glasses parts (aside from having
nose pads replaced at a glasses shop I noticed in a Walmart).
If you don't find a small-quantity supplier, consider getting
some used glasses (for parts) at a thrift store or optician.

I wouldn't be comfortable with lead-based solder near my nose,
and would use braze rather than solder. Also, given the small
contact area of the nose-pad arm and relatively high stress on
the part, the extra strength of braze vs. solder is desirable.

--
jiw

On Sun, 15 Jul 2012 18:26:08 +0000 (UTC)
James Waldby wrote:

snip
I wouldn't be comfortable with lead-based solder near my nose,
and would use braze rather than solder. Also, given the small
contact area of the nose-pad arm and relatively high stress on
the part, the extra strength of braze vs. solder is desirable.

I'm first and foremost an electronics tech and pretty good at soft
soldering. That being said I've been using glasses off/on for over 30
years that have been repaired around the nose pieces with soft solder.
Usually 37/63 if it matters. Last repair was ~6 years ago and that pair
gets worn pretty much everyday for reading, close up stuff. Of course
maybe THAT is the reason I'm a bit whacko ;-)

You need a lot of surface area to make soft solder work well though.
Nice thing about it is that you can keep trying, rarely if ever does it
do any harm other than come apart.

I could resort to hard silver solder if need be, but I'm not as talented
working with my acetylene torch set. I do have some small tips though
just in case.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

Winston wrote:
On Sun, 15 Jul 2012 07:14:12 -0500, Snag wrote:

Winston wrote:

(Parts vendor request: wire frame glasses nose-pad arms.)

My jeweler welded a broken one back together for me , can't even
tell it's
been repaired .

Same here.

Last time these glasses broke, I took them to a local
'glasses repair' house. 45 dollarettes later,
they attached a new nose pad arm with the most delicate
braze joint you've ever seen.
The braze held, but the arm was apparently not sufficiently
annealed because it snapped off right at the joint just a
couple months later.

Guess I'll have to cruise the local thrift shops for
wireframe glasses to salvage for parts.

--Winston --Or, I could stop bashing my head against the wall...

David (the owner of the jewelry shop) told me if it breaks again to bring
it back , he'd take care of me . He's a really good guy , been using his
servoces for like 15 years now . He always wants to know where's the Harley
if I'm in a car ... even if it's 14° and there's ice on the streets . He
knows me too well . He and his guys have made several custom pieces for my
wife from my designs over the years ... and I've made some custom conductor
baton pieces for him as a "thank yew" .
--
Snag
Learning keeps
you young !

On Sun, 15 Jul 2012 18:26:08 +0000, James Waldby wrote:

On Sun, 15 Jul 2012 05:17:47 +0000, Winston wrote:

(Request for vendor of eyeglass repair parts.)

Does your local repair place carry any parts like that?

Yes. Not for sale to the unwashed, though.

I haven't
recently looked for glasses parts (aside from having nose pads replaced
at a glasses shop I noticed in a Walmart). If you don't find a
small-quantity supplier, consider getting some used glasses (for parts)
at a thrift store or optician.

Capital suggestion.

I wouldn't be comfortable with lead-based solder near my nose, and would
use braze rather than solder. Also, given the small contact area of the
nose-pad arm and relatively high stress on the part, the extra strength
of braze vs. solder is desirable.

I'm not so concerned about lead. The joint would not be in rubbing
contact with any part of my physiognomy and would be sufficiently
strong, now that I know about the magic of joint preparation and
extra solder flux.

I can solder with sufficiently good quality easily using the tools
at hand but brazing on that scale would require me to buy a need
little 'micro torch' (new tool. Oooooo.)

I am very concerned that I would overheat the parts (as did the
professional repair guy) and cause another failure, if I brazed
anyway.

--Winston

On Sun, 15 Jul 2012 16:04:00 -0500, Snag wrote:

(...)

David (the owner of the jewelry shop) told me if it breaks again to
bring
it back , he'd take care of me . He's a really good guy , been using his
servoces for like 15 years now . He always wants to know where's the
Harley if I'm in a car ... even if it's 14° and there's ice on the
streets . He knows me too well . He and his guys have made several
custom pieces for my wife from my designs over the years ... and I've
made some custom conductor baton pieces for him as a "thank yew" .

Very cool!

--Winston

On Sun, 15 Jul 2012 16:45:07 -0400, Leon Fisk wrote:

(...)

I'm first and foremost an electronics tech and pretty good at soft
soldering. That being said I've been using glasses off/on for over 30
years that have been repaired around the nose pieces with soft solder.
Usually 37/63 if it matters. Last repair was ~6 years ago and that pair
gets worn pretty much everyday for reading, close up stuff.

I ended up salvaging a nose-pad arm off an old frame and
soft soldered with eutectic as well. It'll do.

I could resort to hard silver solder if need be, but I'm not as talented
working with my acetylene torch set. I do have some small tips though
just in case.

I'll have to locate a really tiny tip for my Purox
torch and try my hand at that sometime.
Sounds like fun!

--Winston

On 15 Jul 2012 22:25:58 GMT, Winston wrote:

On Sun, 15 Jul 2012 18:26:08 +0000, James Waldby wrote:

On Sun, 15 Jul 2012 05:17:47 +0000, Winston wrote:

(Request for vendor of eyeglass repair parts.)

Does your local repair place carry any parts like that?

Yes. Not for sale to the unwashed, though.

Butofcoursenot.


I haven't
recently looked for glasses parts (aside from having nose pads replaced
at a glasses shop I noticed in a Walmart). If you don't find a
small-quantity supplier, consider getting some used glasses (for parts)
at a thrift store or optician.

Capital suggestion.

I wouldn't be comfortable with lead-based solder near my nose, and would
use braze rather than solder. Also, given the small contact area of the
nose-pad arm and relatively high stress on the part, the extra strength
of braze vs. solder is desirable.

Prolly so.


I'm not so concerned about lead. The joint would not be in rubbing
contact with any part of my physiognomy and would be sufficiently
strong, now that I know about the magic of joint preparation and
extra solder flux.

Bueno.
I can solder with sufficiently good quality easily using the tools
at hand but brazing on that scale would require me to buy a need
little 'micro torch' (new tool. Oooooo.)

Gopheritwindude!


I am very concerned that I would overheat the parts (as did the
professional repair guy) and cause another failure, if I brazed
anyway.

Practice makes...um, better. The watch repairman who silver-soldered
my frames did a nice job and they persist as my backups.

--
A human being must have occupation if he or
she is not to become a nuisance to the world.
-- Dorothy L. Sayers

We need to find -jobs- for our CONgresscritters!
-- Larry Jaques

On Sun, 15 Jul 2012 15:49:25 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote:

Gopheritwindude!

I cut up an old frame and salvaged an arm off it.
Lots o' surface prep and extra solder flux.
A little 63/37 and it is once again Functional.
Werks Gut.

Practice makes...um, better. The watch repairman who silver-soldered my
frames did a nice job and they persist as my backups.

I am barely controlling my lust for one o'them laser
welders made famous by youtube. Oh Boy!

--Windude

In article ,
says...

On Sun, 15 Jul 2012 07:14:12 -0500, Snag wrote:

Winston wrote:

(Parts vendor request: wire frame glasses nose-pad arms.)

My jeweler welded a broken one back together for me , can't even tell
it's
been repaired .

Same here.

Last time these glasses broke, I took them to a local
'glasses repair' house. 45 dollarettes later,
they attached a new nose pad arm with the most delicate
braze joint you've ever seen.
The braze held, but the arm was apparently not sufficiently
annealed because it snapped off right at the joint just a
couple months later.

Guess I'll have to cruise the local thrift shops for
wireframe glasses to salvage for parts.

--Winston --Or, I could stop bashing my head against the wall...

You know do you not that for 45 bucks the Chinese will be happy to send
you a nice pair of glasses with nitinal frames?

Good News, Everybody!

https://qtena.com/nose-pads-nose-arms-c-797_836.html

5 pair for 9 bux plus shipping, handling, taxes, transportation,
accounting fee, Customs, Excise.

It is a heckuva bargain.

--Winston

On Mon, 16 Jul 2012 02:07:33 -0400, J. Clarke wrote:

(...)

You know do you not that for 45 bucks the Chinese will be happy to send
you a nice pair of glasses with nitinal frames?

Well, $200 anyway.

I discovered that 5 sets of the repair parts are available from Rancho
Cucamonga for less than 20 dollarettes.
https://qtena.com/nose-pads-nose-arms-c-797_836.html

--Winston

On 15 Jul 2012 22:34:12 GMT
Winston wrote:

I'll have to locate a really tiny tip for my Purox
torch and try my hand at that sometime.
Sounds like fun!

I don't dig out the acetylene outfit very often... But I fixed a couple
of Jeep door hinges for my neighbor a few weeks ago so it is still
fresh on my mind. It is a Victor outfit (100C HB Torch) and the smallest
tip I bought special thinking I would use it for bicycle frame repair:

Part/Size # Description Material thickness
000 Welding tip Up to 1/32"

Probably kinda big yet for what jewelers would use but I think it would
be worth a go. But then I would HAVE to remove the lenses whereas if
they are glass (mine are) you can most likely get away with leaving them
in. And I would have to DIG the Oxy/Acy rig out, refresh my brain
on settings... I haven't lost my soft soldering Fu yet so most
likely that would be my first choice. Afraid I'm getting pretty lazy
nowadays

It's nice knowing that I have it around though, just in case I really
need it.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

On Mon, 16 Jul 2012 15:04:34 -0400, Leon Fisk wrote:

On 15 Jul 2012 22:34:12 GMT
Winston wrote:

I'll have to locate a really tiny tip for my Purox torch and try my hand
at that sometime. Sounds like fun!

I don't dig out the acetylene outfit very often... But I fixed a couple
of Jeep door hinges for my neighbor a few weeks ago so it is still fresh
on my mind. It is a Victor outfit (100C HB Torch) and the smallest tip I
bought special thinking I would use it for bicycle frame repair:

Part/Size # Description Material thickness 000
Welding tip Up to
1/32"

I found one of those in my kit. Still don't know what I'd do with it.
Maybe experiment with welding aluminum wire or something.

Probably kinda big yet for what jewelers would use but I think it would
be worth a go. But then I would HAVE to remove the lenses whereas if
they are glass (mine are) you can most likely get away with leaving them
in.

I removed the lens' when I did my soft-solder repair.
I think the plastic would not have liked the 700 F.

And I would have to DIG the Oxy/Acy rig out, refresh my brain on
settings... I haven't lost my soft soldering Fu yet so most likely that
would be my first choice. Afraid I'm getting pretty lazy nowadays

I thought that was just *me*.

It's nice knowing that I have it around though, just in case I really
need it.

Assemble left-over frame parts into sculpture, sell for
huge dollars through an art gallery. Become famous and
very wealthy!

--Winston